HOW MUCH WEIGHT CAN A RESIDENTIAL LOADER LIFT 

Thanks, glad you liked it!

Glad you enjoyed it

Yes, that is true, it would help. But there are other factors. For example: where is the best place to come off the frame. Some tractors lend themselves to a connection point behind the front axle, thus making the bucket fit closer providing increased lift capacity. Other tractors do not lend themselves very well to that design and it is better or easier or more cost effective to make the connection point to the frame in front of the front axle. This is where a problem comes in - the feedback that I am getting is that builders want to keep costs super low. They want to build somewhat quickly because they live very busy lives. They want to build on the lawn mower tractor they already own. In some cases they want to build a loader and leave the mower deck on, greatly limiting options. In your case it sounds like you are thinking through each of your tractor projects. You are taking the time to select just the right tractor for the particular use. Likely you are choosing a true garden tractor with a heavy duty frame for your loader project. If so, this is great. But even if you build a loader on a riding mower it sounds like you will be very selective in the tractor you buy so you can build the loader you envision. I design my videos to be helpful mostly to those that fit the description mentioned above, people that have fewer choices. Ideas are what will help potential builders to think things through. Your idea / recommendation is an excellent one. Viewers that read comments attached to this video will benefit from your insight. Also, worth mentioning is the fact that the hood on the loader in this video lifts straight off. I had to do that because of the single hydraulic cylinder positioned right in front of the hood would not allow it to remain as a pivot to open hood. Thanks, Ed

Yes, I am planing on a video to test the lifting ability of the DC actuators. That Cub Cadet should be an awesome build. Thanks, Ed

I appreciate that!

Yes, I agree. Builders building on lawn mower tractors need to understand that a 200 -300 lb load is all they should expect. Like you say moving 200 lbs of gravel or dirt is better than shoveling all day and breaking your back. If you want to lift more than that, you need to build on a heavier duty tractor. Thanks, Ed

@@eds2centsworth203 The Bolens garden tractor is 850lbs, do you think I can lift 400lbs comfortably on an hydraulic system? That is the max I need i would think. I have all the parts to build the loader, I hadn't decided yet if I was going with hydraulic or actuators. You convinced me. Thank you for showing how to wire the solenoids, that is what was missing for me. The actuator controllers cannot carry enough current in syncro mode.

If the Bolens has the frame I think it does, you should be able to add ballast weigh to the rear tires and back of the tractor. The tractors that are in my videos are lighter duty than the Bolens. I can lift 300 lbs max with 150 lbs or more of ballast weight. If I add more ballast weight I can lift more bucket weght. However my tractors are not heavy duty enough to go beyond the 300 lb bucket weight. If your frame is not at least 1/8" thick steel you will break the frame with regular heavy loads. I don't know if you understand the need for ballast weight or not so here is a quick explaination - When you put a load in the front bucket, your front axle acts as a pivot point and your rear wheels start to lift off of the ground. Put enough weight in the bucket and you will loose traction and stability. Adding ballast weight restores traction and stability. If you put too much weight in the rear and lift a very heavy bucket load you can overstress the frame and it could crack or worse. If your frame is thin you will need to enforce the frame. Also consider this. If you don't have power steering, heavy loads tend to make steering difficult. More ballast weight will tend to lift the front and improve steering.

@@eds2centsworth203 Hi, thank you for the information. My neighbour and I calculated we can take the 80 lbs of ballast weight in the wheels and add 150 in the back. He figured I can lift about 400lbs in the bucket. The frame is about 3/16" or better and I was told by a man who used to have the aftermarket front end loader ( a company used to make them years ago.) He could lift close to 500 lbs. Sizing the hydraulic system will be a challenge. Thanks again for the help. My neighbour is a mechanical engineer, so he will check the work before allowing to lift anything heavy.

Sounds like you are in good shape! Ed

Here are some links. 10 inch actuator: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S2R4RCX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 12 inch actuator: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RZKJRHP/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A23FMSJB1ZR12S&psc=1 Personally I would not make any alterations to the actuators for 24 volts or less until you have a problem. I have had only one actuator fail at 24 volts. 20 volts seems to be trouble free. Here is a link to my video on upgrading the actuators to handle 24 volts. I believe this alteration would handle 36 volts as well, but I have not put it to the test yet. Keep in mind that you will shorten the life of the 12VDC motor by running in higher voltages. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-q0VW7-C_PU0.html As for the math to calculate your mechanical advantage, I use a lever calculator. Here is a link below. www.translatorscafe.com/unit-converter/en-US/calculator/lever-mechanical-advantage/ Scroll down until you see the Class 3 calculator. Use the Class 3 - This calculator starts out in metric values but you can change them to inches, feet and pounds. I hope this is helpful to you, Ed

@@eds2centsworth203 Wow, what an excellent response to my comment. As you stated these mowers were designed to cut grass and some may not be suited for a loader conversion. I have a commercial ZT Gravely which has a pretty stout underframe . Would love to mount a pivot point mid-frame to equalize the weight distribution. We’ll see how that goes. Have researched the items I need for this build and luckily have much of it on hand. I’ll will probably get started in February. Your actuator teardown to replace the diodes and switches was very well do and explained. I retired 5 years ago and would enjoy retiring my shovel and wheelbarrow also…lol.

I use a 12 VDC hydraulic pump. Here is a link on Amazon. www.amazon.com/Happybuy-Solenoid-Hydraulic-4-5Liter-Trailer/dp/B07ZCLS6RN/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1OMKBG0H1ZKNL&keywords=hydraulic+pump+12v&qid=1672764659&sprefix=hydraulic+pump%2Caps%2C117&sr=8-9 The tractor battery is not strong enough to operate the pump for very long, so I am also using a Ford F150 battery to power the pump. The alternator on the tractor can't charge the battery fast enough, so I have to charge the battery before using. A full charge on the F150 battery will allow me to use the loader for about 2 hours under steady use. If I use the loader only ocasionally during the day the battery will last all day. I find this is acceptable in a residential setting. In a commercial setting it would not work very well. You can see my setup in one of my videos, here is the link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4mflY5zBKrI.html Hope this helps, Ed

Thank you very much . I am wanting to start a loader build for my 1972 John Deere 110 garden tractor !!