Everybody has opinions about almost everything. In my life experience I have always tried to be helpful (sometimes it didn't work out). My channel is based on my experiences. Sometimes this is expert such as the case concerning vinyl decals (more than 35 years experience), sometimes I am somewhat experienced but not expert such as automotive or construction projects, Ariel Lifts and other equipment . My pledge to you is "I will never comment on things that I am a total idiot about".
Nice work. People don't have common sense enough to realize that there in over their head. Its not do much the equipment as it is operator error. Abd it would happen with sny equipment . Tge thing is egen welds break for example did a wrkder do the work or did joe shmo with his new temu welder. Using soup cans for framing metal. And he wonders why he got hurt or hurt someone. You got to know ur own limits to. I don't think you would rebuild your transmission in your car and you never had tool set. And dont know how change spark plugs. Know your limits. All im saying. If ur not mechanical inclined naybe Ed's videos aren't for you to do just to watch snd lesrn so one day you can . Anyone can learn if they apply . Thanks all thank you Ed for sharing. Stay safe from ur ole hillbilly buddy.
Ues Sir i see now. That's was my thoughts to electric now upgrade if need too only thing now is go winch or actuator. I have brand new nbox 3000 superwinch with all hook ups and 4 new 6ah DW 20 volt old 20 gallon compressor motor shot but tank is off and like new use to make bucket maybe and enough framing square pipe and angle iron. Tey to xobble up something like u have. Thanks for sharing again stay safe from ur ole hillbilly buddy
Hello you say u usehd a tool battery with your 24 volt system. I have 4of the 6 amp h. DW's 20 volts all new with maybe 10 charges on them. There workink load os 18.volts i think. Ive used it with 12 volt spot light cut car cigarette plug off put flat blades on end plug in battery wirks great. Wonder if they the dw battery would work with one battery for one actuator 12 volt. Or think it would let the magic smoke out. Thanks , should run bit faster im thinking if it don't fry it. 🥓 🍳. Lol.
Keep on popping them different kinds of ways to make a loader lawn mower. I've been thinking on like fork truck style. Maybe an actuator straight up and down and little one one bucker for tilt and even a third for slight pivot on up and down frame to 6" give 3" each way positive and negative tilt maybe. IDK seeing what you think. Your the expert on this. Also one could have little fork lift and bucket attachments for versatility. Just a half a cents worth. For now everyone just wait till ED gets few cents on it. Be awesome as always. Thanks for sharing stay safe from ur ole hillbilly buddy
Yeah I really like it . Might be what I need to start with. . Later upgrade to hydraulic put winch on my 4 wheeler when take it off there. Win win. Thanks for sharing ur 2 cents.
Ed, that is really clever what you did to increase the leverage at the different points. I would have never thought of that on my own. Thank you for all that you do.
Hoodie Ed ya might just have somein here ya know that change the bracket little less work make it portable could be a seller just saying ya come up with mighty fine ideas should be rolling out the paper and pen do some writing send them away to get patterned could be rich man we'll ya got my vote at our age ya gotta write them down or tomorrow ya wonder what thi🎉s 60crap on table is four ther ben said from Canada 🇨🇦 SK big howdo later oya give ya thumps up carry on keep them 😊coming ya might have great one 1⃣ upstairs let it out
That's a cool build. The one question I have about this tractor is what kind of speed selector is in it? My father's old MTD lawn tractor had a 2-belt CVT and it *sucked*. Just going up and down hills while mowing grass it ate up a drive belt every couple years. On the other hand, if your machine has a hydro, you should be alright. In that case the only thing I would suggest is putting a larger pulley on the transmission to lower the gear ratio. When engaging the ground torque is more important than speed.
This was a CVT. I do a lot of experimentation and this was the first CVT transmission tractor I built on. I prefer to build with a hydrostatic platform. Although I must say that this particular build performed well. Ballast weight in the rear is key to good performance. Thanks, Ed
Thanks for the input. It should be noted that on the larger 23" tire with a 12" rim you can get about 20 pounds per tire with windshield washer fluid. But here is something to consider - most residential loaders built on riding mowers have 2 ply tires. If the mower has some age on it the tires are more than likely showing some signs of cracking (dry rot). I recommend examining the tires closely before liquid filling. It may not be worth the time and effort to fill with windsield washer fluid if the tires are old.
The way you always drill a pilot hole. Use a small drill bit (cobalt if possible). I like to start with a 1/8" or 3/16 bit. Drill the hole where you need it, then follow with the tapered die grinder bit to enlarge the hole. And then use larger die grinder bits as needed to achieve the size hole you want. Thanks for watching, Ed
Hi Ed, I am wanting to attempt this with my massy furguson mower which has plenty of power at 23hp but I am very worried about its comparatively weaker Transmission which is hydrostatic. Have you attempted to do this with any Hydrostatic tractors. I was looking at picking up a 90s Craftsman with only 12hp engine and a 5speed peerless Transmission, would this be a better bet? and would it be worth the $400 to switch to that?
I can't comment on the Massey Ferguson, but I have found that on the riding mower conversion to front end loader that the hydrostatic transmission with the 23 inch rear wheel (12 inch rim) works well overall. The manual transmissions have a little trouble when pushing into a pile of dirt (forward gear) and then shifting into reverse to back away from the dirt pile. The hydrostatic trans is pretty much seamless. The tractor in this video was a 7 speed manual. The transmission would load or bind going from forward to reverse if I tried to change gear before lifting the loader bucket. If I lifted the bucket first and then changed gear it worked better. I built a loader on a Craftsman GT6000 with Hydro transmission and 23 inch wheels and it worked well. I can't comment on the 5 speed Peerless but they seem to have a good reputation for garden tractor. Hope this helps.
Actuators can be very fast and of comparable speed to hydraulics. Where excavator manufacturers have removed hydraulic systems entirely from a battery version of a diesel model, it has given operational benefits. Its probably about choosing the best actuator for the job. Those electro-hydraulic units you installed are also compact and very good.
Yes the actuators have their place. Unfortunately the really high end electric actuators are on the expensive side and not feasible for a weekend fabrication project that is for the home owner. If it is a commercially viable build then money is less of a barrier. Overall, dollar for dollar, hydraulics is the best choice.
If I had to guess, I’d say Part 2 will show how to install thrust bearings onto the steering spindles. Also possibly installing grease fittings onto the spindles if they don’t have them. If that’s the case, I suspect the steering wheel modification may not actually be necessary. Given the extra weight of the front end, Part 2 will definitely help decrease the effort necessary to steer, but also lengthen the life of the parts involved since there’s a lot more friction involved with that extra weight.
Sorry, no. Part 2 takes an unorthodox approach. Basically, it is the steering parts design that is faulty, altering the parts will provide near power steering performance. The kingpins (the vertical shaft) are much more critical to steerability than the spindle (the horizontal shaft). Many of the modern lawn tractors have these 2 components made into a single part. However your ideas are excellent. I have seen thrust bearing kits. Also, keep in mind that many modern lawn tractors use plastic bushings for the kingpin and spindle.
Ed, there is a true genius in someone applying logic and creativity in such a simple form. What a great idea! This is why I keep coming back to your channel. Always something to learn and apply. I really enjoy your channel and the work you do. I can see your work enhancing people's lives. Thanks again, Ed. Looking forward to your next video.
looks good, I'm looking forward to the 2nd video to see what you have in mind for the tractor. Several years ago I did the poor man's power steering to mine and it has worked wonderfully, but I'm always looking ideas for improvement.
@eds2centsworth203 also putting a thumb on the digger as well. Having 2 bars welded togeather as the boon the thumb will be between them. The retracting side will be close to the boom as it doesn't require much force. The gripping action will be extended above the boom to exert a fair bit of pressure with the extra leverage
While it is true, diggng is a real problem for them, there are tons of other things they can do in a residential setting. They can scoop dirt, mulch, small stone gravel. Smooth out a dirt driveway. They can also carry things from the pickup truck through narrow gates, to where they need to be. I have several videos showing things that they can do. But your right, if you need to dig, you need a heavier tractor with better traction.
Ed, Is this tractor a GT6000? When you approach the 200 lb. limit, does your steering get increasingly difficult? Do counterweights help that, besides increasing traction for the rear wheels?
Thank you very much! This video was very helpful. My grandfather added hidraulics to the tractor but now I need to change the pump to an electric one . Now I don't have no one to ask how to make it. Thinga are now clearer. Thank you very much!!!😊
Troy Built Pony. It is a MUST to reinforce the frame on this tractor. The reinforcement includes extending the reinforcement out of the rear so it can handle the counter weights. A heavier tractor would allow for higher (longer) crane and tree trimming attachments.
I shop around for the best deals. I check eBay, Amazon, but the place I like the best is Surplus Center. They are an excellent source for fittings, valves, cylinders, etc. They often times have close outs on cylinders at excellent prices. Thats www.surpluscenter.com/ . 1-800-488-3407 you can call them and ask for a printed catalog. Also if you intend to go with an electric pump here is a link to an excellent buy on Amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZCLS6RN/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_9?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 I hope this helps.
I'd like to start projects like this but I don't know where to get the steel, maybe you can show a video where / how you gathered your supplies, Thanks in advance
I have about 3 acers, about half are woods and bought the Little Green Monster loader attachment for my JD z590. I have found many uses for it. I do not have the ability do build things like that but can bolt on and drill holes for putting things on.
That's a good loader and tractor. It doesn't matter whether you build it or bolt it on - it's the fun and satisfaction of what you can do with it. All the best, Ed
This was a great compilation of your work. Your other videos are indeed inspirational! I am currently converting a John Deere 317 w a bad engine into all electric. The hydraulics is something I want to retain. You have provided the germ of inspiration to help me build the bucket. Thank you! Peter T.
Hi Ed, love your channel and your tractor projects; exactly what I've been looking for in terms of ideas for my Bolens 12xl. Have some of the parts to a Craftsman fel and am going to fabricate the missing pieces to mount the bucket and use winches as in your winch-bucket-loader video, but first am going to be building the front end crane as in this video, to be able to resettle a few concrete sidewalk pads that were pushed up by tree roots and are a pedestrian hazard. Already tried to use a vertical farm jack but need the ability to be able to lift AND move/slide them out of the way to get to the roots underneath, cut them away, level the surface, and then put the pads back in place with the rest of the sidewalk. I'll let you know how it works out, but in the meantime, just wanted to thank you for your videos, explanations, and ideas. Keep those ideas and videos coming.
