How my edge jointing method works. Plus... Summer Jam projects and WWMM Newsletter | Day 144 

Well played Mr. Ramsey. I applaud you for sign intro. The sign is level, the rest of the world is askew.

Yes. The intro was fantastic. Steve's way if saying "I don't give a crap what you think, it's my shop".

My jointing jig consists of some 1/8" angle aluminum stock from your local home improvement store. The length doesn't matter. Just be sure it is long enough for the entire board to clear the blade. Attach the aluminum to the top of the board using double sided tape, one side of the aluminum on the top of the board and the other to ride along the fence. I don't use carpet tape. Way to hard to remove. I use double sided tape from MLCS. You don't need to run the tape for the length of the board, just a couple or three pieces of tape. After jointing the first edge, simply remove the aluminum, being careful not to warp/bend it, and run the board through again with the jointed edge against the fence. Thanks, Steve, for all the info and entertainment. Keep it up.

RE: the lid: maybe just put a chamfer around the inside of the lid to clear the tray corner. :P Very exciting episode! :D

Thank you for making woodworking simple for this old Gal. My husband always wanted to get into woodworking after he retired, but unfortunately he passed too soon (brain cancer). I have recently found myself needing things built, so I'm building them myself. I haven't many tools because I gave his to the kids, but I'm working on getting some. Next project is a display/organizer shelf for my Nail art supplies (I am a Nail Artist) I think I have a good idea of how I will do it now that I have watched a few of your videos ;) Thank you again Steve!

Sorry, I had to fast forward a 2:50 minutes. But thank you. You are always so informative. Greatly appreciated. And shout out to those in the Central Valley. YAY YAY!

I love your videos just the way they are, Steve! Your down-home, plain-spoken manner is just what I look for on You-Tube, and you're one of the funniest guys in the woodworking world! You also give us a wealth of useful information, geared to the amateur woodworker. Thanks for all the work you do!

Steve thank you for this channel. I have learned so much from watching quit a few of your videos, which I intend to try and watch every one of them. I like the way that you explain things in a way its easy to understand. Most of the other videos from others don't take the time to do that. Again thank you for taking the time in explaining.

I've really enjoyed all the videos you made during lockdown, you've given us many giggles which lightened up an otherwise dreary time in our lives, so keep doing what you do so well. Having just started out experiencing the joys of woodworking, I've learnt so much from your videos which most importantly showed me how to enjoy woodworking, so a huge thank you from me. Stay safe and well, best regards from Durban, South Africa

What I do with longer wood workpieces is place them up against an aluminum "I" beam level and the level up against the table saw fence. I push the workpiece and level together in unison, that helps keep a straight edge across longer edges when the workpiece is longer than the fence.

Wow, such awesome summer jam projects everyone. Can’t wait to see more!

You know, this channel usually has more comments than any other channel. If you consider that you are making a video everyday that is amazing. And also, the comments on your videos are often as interesting to read as anything. The way you jump around from one idea to another keeps me on my mental toes. Love it. Keep up the difficult work. And I love both Aahmbeyonce and ambience 😄

John Heisz shows on one of his videos that you can do a few passes alternating sides and you end up with both sides jointed pretty flat.

Love your channel. I am a beginner, and you have been a big help!!

WOW do really people ask all this questions? I guess i am to relaxed. I am so happy the art of wood you have on the wall was straighten up. It is really fun to see what people have made in this 2 days. A lot of nice things. I wish you all a fantastic day, and hope you got to do something fun. Best wishes from Jan in Norway

I really think your content has improved due to the shoeshine box, Steve. Getting into the absolute basics is something that I think your channel is perfectly suited for. Someone like Antonio who doesn't even know what tools they have can watch your channel and really learn a lot.

Good point I have been strugglling with jigs (ie straight board with factory edge and with clamps to clamp down rough sawn board to staight edge board ) and its such an ackward ordeal . I like your simple method

Hello my friend Steve, I am an e-man, and I follow you from Kuwait. I am very impressed with your cute personality and the way you explain and your ideas. I ask you to clarify the process of cutting the edges of the tilted wood with a table saw and by applying my work in order to see the result how we accelerate the curved wood board from both sides straight and thank you very much ..

Half of the fun of your video’s is when you address comments from your viewers and the woodwork information is always helpful. I can’t see me switching off anytime soon Steve.👍👍👍

I should make a Camp Crystal Lake sign for our old vacation cabin. Sometimes people walk onto our property exploring, thinking that it’s abandoned. It’s a bit owergrown and wild. They usually get a good jump when they suddenly see me standing there quietly. Also I should get a hockey mask.

I would say the board needs to finish cutting before it reaches the end of the table and fence. Otherwise the bend will affect the cut.

The words you may be looking for are: "As long as the same points of contact of the board to the fence continue from the start to the end of the cut, we will get a perfectly jointed board."

Thanks for being so positive and welcoming to newbie woodworkers, Steve!

Steve: “No question is too dumb for this channel” Me: “Challenge accepted” 😜

I'm a new woodworker and I did this shit fucking around since I don't have a jointer and my planer causes to much snipe...I loved this method. It works works.

I prefer ahm-bee-aunce pronunciation personally. But I’m still here! I love the personality you bring to your videos.

You always put a smile on my face... thank you 🙏

6:00 I think people might have asked that question because with the glued-up board, there is now no jointed edge to use when cutting it down to size, since the two previously jointed edges are now in the center of the piece.

I find the sled joiner the best safest and quickest option. Mine does long or short boards bc I have 5 clamp downs on it.

I got excited that you started talking about white balance. I love your channel and have learned so much from you. My turn! So the priority settings are there bc light color is measured in degrees kelvin. The sunlight is around 5000k and your shop lights might be around 3000k. So it’s either balanced for sunlight to appear white or for artificial light to appear white but you can’t get both types of light to appear white at the same time. So the priority is up to you. I’d much rather have a warmer tone than a cooler one. The cameras are automatically balanced for sunlight. Which is actually blue. Classic Light bulbs are generally a red yellow color and fluorescent bulbs are green! Your brain just tells you its all white but film or cameras can’t do the same.

I use that jointing method quite a bit, but I always try to make 3 cuts. First as you’ve described, then flip to straighten the other side, then back the original just in case. I feel like after the 3 cuts I’m pretty straight and true. That first cut doesn’t always get a fully straight line if the board is super bad. If the board doesn’t feel safe, I’ll use the hand plane to get close first.

I love Steve's choice of words and sense of humour. He is actually very articulate and smart

So much crap on RU-vid, but videos like this leave me smiling and feeling good.

Love watching these videos like... every day. It really makes me want to drop by for a coffee or something and just shoot the stuff* with ya, Steve. One thing my son and I loved and wish you could do more of is the "WOODWORKING WOOODDDDWOOOORKING!" cuts from a few videos ago - I'm sure we're not the only ones who get a kick out of it :) Keep being awesome! Stay safe out there in CA!

Hey Steve, looooong time fan, first time commenter. Your white balance woes resonate with me, I'd love to help you out! I'm just a regular guy, but also professionally speaking I'm a technical director in the Canadian film industry and I'm comfortable with almost anything camera related. It'd be my honor to give you some advise and answer your questions. I see it as repayment to you for all of the wonderful lessons I've learned from your videos! If you're interested just comment and we can figure it out from there, Thanks and keep up all your great work!

"There's no question too dumb for this channel" Steve: makes the sign tilt the other way instead of making it straight.

I may not be the first to watch your video Steve but I watch all your videos sometimes more than once you are my favorite woodworker heck probably my favorite you tuber

Click, click, click (that’s me sending this video to all my friends!) Thanks for the great explanation Steve. It’s really great how you address people’s comments and queries.

lol love the sign intro!

Thanks for all the tips, Steve! 😊 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

Have enjoyed your videos for a long time but the lockdown series has been fantastic, really helped get me through this time, whilst continuing to learn and enjoy near daily updates! Keep up the good work Steve! Andrew, Oxford, 🇬🇧

I wanted to participate in the jam but unfortunately my table saw became misaligned and I had a wee bit of an accident, almost broke my hand when a 2x4 kicked back and flew full speed at my face.... all I could do was throw my hands up and duck. Needless to say the planter/ water fall I was building remains un-finished. Tip: remember to run safety checks often “ because an unchecked unaligned saw blade can be and is dangerous, happy wood working everyone 😅

Nick Hempsall I don’t have room for a table saw. Wish I did. So what I do to edge join 2 boards is put them together with the jointing edge up in a vice. Then I get a hand plane and start shaving until I’m getting full shavings from both boards. It doesn’t matter if they aren’t square or 90 degrees. You can even shave both boards to a complete downward or upward angle. It doesn’t matter so long as you get full shavings from both boards. Then put them on a flat surface and put the planed edges together. Kind of hinging then from the bottom unplaned edges. You will see that they are perfect mirrors or each other, and fit together perfectly with no gaps ready for glueing. If I had a table saw then I’d just do it the same as Steve. Ok now you can click click click

Thanks for the News Letter, very fun and useful. Peace and Good Fortune and Good Health to you and your family. I did make a bench for my deck, but I was chicken to send in a picture of it. At least I got in done. It turned out nice. :)

The old Micro-Jig spots probably grabbed a lot in the first 5 seconds.

Love the ten second skip function, but I never skip anything in your videos. Even your old baked in adds were entertaining. Keep up the good work. You've helped me learn a lot, make some good projects and smart purchases too.

Well it’s finally happened! We have finally driven Steve crazy!

You've got quite a lot of back light. Build a reflector screen or two that can reflect the light from the cameras position in to the camera view. You can use a white cloth, a board, aluminium foil or just anything of your choice. Several screens cancel out the unwanted shadows.

The worst case scenario is if the back of the board that you're passing through the table saw is warped back around the fence slightly. Then what happens in that case is as you push the wood against the fence, the wood starts to push out towards the blade from the fence and can cause burning. this also ruins the joint because it essentially the same as pushing against the blade instead of the fence and causes the cut line to move. Unless it's pretty severe though, if you just run it through again... It'll probably be fine 🤷🏼‍♂️ If the warp is minor and the board is not excessively long, just using the table saw is totally fine. It took me a while to figure that out but I mostly agree with you here.

I'm a Newby from across the pond and I am learning alot from you. Great channel Steve.

Adjusting the sign was galaxy brain level trolling!

Great Update ! Some Of The Heat Wave Projects Are Amazing !

Hey Steve, a though on the box lid problem. What if you cut an angle in the front of the lid instead? Then you could have the insert stay unmodified, and it wouldn't matter what direction you put it in, and you wouldn't see the mod without looking for it. I know you're normal plan is to make the box as a full 6-sided piece and then cut the lid off, which would make making that angle pretty challenging, but I dunno, you're the expert here, can you think of a good way to do it? Best I got is chiseling it, and that sounds like a big pain and probably pretty hard to make it look even and consistent. Maybe if you made the cut before putting the box together? I'd think you could do that on a table saw pretty easily. Just need to remember how deep it is so you cut the lid off at the right point!

I have just this morning signed up to the weekend woodworker course. Will make sure to post pics to get the badge 😀

I quite enjoy your weird ass quarantine videos.

I definitely clicked to subscribe to the newsletter. ^_^ I love seeing inspiration and cool builds. I paused as soon as Steve said the link so I could click it in the description.

Mr. Ramsey: Perdón por decirlo en Español, pero debo decirlo en mi idioma para sentirlo: Amo su programa, y amo su actitud. Usted es un maestro de nacimiento. Gracias porque su programa es el más honesto, sencillo, y realmente se siente que tiene deseos de enseñar. Gracias. A mis 52 años, soy su más ferviente estudiante.

In scetchup you could put a circle with the center in the place where hinge is with a radius being the width of the inner dimension of the box plus width of one of the sides. That way you will create an arc which will tell you how much you should cut the tray inside off.

Awe noooo. I missed the jam as I was sent away for work :( please keep hosting these. It sounds really fun.

I think it can be explained this way, as long as the same 2 Points are in contact with the fence all across the cut, it will create a parallel cut

Steve, I just watched your boards glue up video and I thought you might have mentioned this but when gluing up the panels the end grains should alternate, or another way of saying is to look at the cup shape the growth rings make and to alternate them. ~just say'n... Excellent videos Steve!

So good that you made headlines for sections of this video. Also thanks for entertaining content.

I love your beginning ramblings

Steve, I learned from my door installer that he has a power plane that he uses with a preset 4 degree angle on it so that the door edge with the handle will clear the frame and still close with a clean look. That's what I would do on the box, but I'd do it on the lid, it will be by far the least obvious location for a tiny angle like that. And, I might do an edge miter on the tray so it's not too sharp.

Just for the record Steve, 90s F aren't "like a thousand degrees" for C folks. 90F = 32C. Now I know in some parts for some folks that's like living on the sun. But here down under that's a warm summer's day. These days we see more often days in the 40s C, that's 104+ F. Now that's hot! Although not right now, it's winter.

For longer boards the table saw jointing technique does get more difficult. You have to start with the less terrible edge and take a bit off the more terrible edge and alternate, working your way to a moderately straight edge. It can take a lot of passes, so a jig or jointer is usually better.

I believe Jimmy Diresta showed in one of his past videos that you can use a similar technique to joint edges for longer boards as well (don't ask me to find it; it was part of one of his builds). The trick was to make several passes that SHAVED the wood just a little each time. I've done this using my old Craftsman contractors saw and the results have been positive. As always, good stuff, Steve, and that sign looks much straighter now, thank you.

Loved the Jam entries! Well done everyone! 😃

Steve, you have an awesome channel. Cheers mate from Australia.

Put the straightest edge against the fence and run it through the saw. Then flip it and put the edge you just sawed against the fence. Then flip it again, and go back to the side you started with. You can flip it one more time if you wish, but both edges are usually pretty straight and parallel by then. You lose a little width each time you flip it, but not more than a blade's thickness.

Glad you took care of that sign. Now I am all good!

I love what you did there with the sign

Thank you! I really enjoy your videos!

Thank you had the same question but didn’t ask. I have seen people use a long level between fence and wood I guess that for long boards

I just found your channel tonight and I really love it. Thank you for all your great content. It is very well rounded. I'd love to hear a bit about the inverted pentagram with the skull and blood dripping from it. lol. Take care!

When jointing longer board on the table saw you could attach a long auxiliary fence to your saw fence (similar to what you did with your miter saw years ago).

Sadly, the rip fence and the infeed/outfeed on my jobsite tablesaw (Dewalt DW745) is not long enough to straighten anything longer than about a foot, so I will probably have to make a jig at some point. I did finally finish my table with added side extension for it on saturday, so now I finally have a decent working height. Big milestone there. :) It was a good exercise in making half laps, if nothing else. Now I just need to modify the extension to take a router. I'll probably go for a Triton as they can be raised and lowered directly without the need of a lift when table mounted...

Besides packing tape, wax paper is also good to prevent glue from adhering to wood.

I think what you mean you cut the crown side. dont put the crown side on the fence. as long as 2 point in contact with the fence it wont move to much.

The weekend-project-run is so good because even if you don't finish it, you just go 90% of the way instead of pushing it over and over

Thanks for clearing that up

"They say the secret is that you have to start the show strong, and you have to end the show strong. Those are the two key elements. You can't be like pancakes - all exciting at first, but by the end, you're f***in' sick of 'em." -Mitch Hedberg

Hey Steve! If you get something you know is white like a (sheet of paper or something) you can hold it up in the light that you would be standing in, zoom in to make the paper full frame, and then hit the auto white balance trigger, that should solve any issues you might be having with the yellow. You can also try color correcting in post, but it sounds like you don’t want to get that deep in the weeds.

It makes perfect sense. I don’t get the videos people put on here for jigs to do this. As long as it touches the fence you will get a straight cut!!

Don't worry Steve. We watch because we love what you have to say, rambling or not!

It is correctly pronounced “ambiance.” You’re gold, Steve.

You can always recommend people to your old video about the straight end jig for the table. Could possibly help for those longer boards

As long as there are two points on the edge of the board against the fence, the opposing edge can be straightened with the tablesaw. Where you would have a problem is if your board was truly convex on the fence side with only one point of contact with the fence. It would be impossible to pass it straight through the saw.

Steve, I'm in your course and my friends and family think I've gone middle-aged crazy I'm making so many things. Couldn't you clamp a very long straight board to the fence, and thus extend it as needed, forward and aft of the table, to avoid the piece curving around the blade? I use the jig you showed us and it works great. Thank you Steve!

I never worried about the camp sign I just tilted my head when I saw it 🤪

Buy a roll of CTB gel filter, cut to size for your interior lighting. Color correction issues improved immediately.

The problem with your White Balance is probably the mixed light situation you have going on. You LED shop lights are a different color temperature than the sun light, so the two mixing together makes for wacky color tinting. To fix , you have to either use only 1 light source - the sun only with the LEDs off, or the LEDs only, which is probably impossible during the day - or match your LEDs to sunlight (5600 kelvin). The LEDs are probably more like 4200K. You could also do a manual white balance off of that focusing chart you got a while back too. Or really, any white piece of paper would work too.

I have clamped a longer board to my fence to get a longer straight edge for jointing. I used melimaine for the straight edge.

"Ahhm-biyonce" means the cheapest entree on the menu is $30.

2 Points make a straight line. As long as those 2 points touch the side rail it is going in a straight edge. Then turn it over to create a parallel side. Then rip cut to make the ends perpendicular. This will make a rectangular board. Learned this in an adult wood shop class.

If you are gonna cut down the panels, then it makes even more sense to have jointed at least one of the outer edges first. But if you are jointing with just the fence I guess it will turn out the same anyways haha. Still wish you had included the jointer sled in this vid though. I was just explaining it to my friend this past weekend

With regards to your jointing method, As long as you maintain the two points of contact against the fence, it seems like the worse case scenario is you end up with a parallelogram piece of lumber the could easily be squared up with the miter saw.

For your camera lighting I wanna say a good option is to darken one wall and face that window with light coming thru

I've batted around a few suggestions for that inner tray, but I keep reminding myself that it has to be something Antonio is capable of easily doing. That helps whittle down the options.

Thank you for the advice. One question though : using this technique, I agree you get your sides straight and parallel, but how does this help in making sure you get 90-deg corners?