A freezer and an oven works well for both components. In the winter I put the inside race and shaft outside, and hest the bearing and shaft housing up on the wood stove. Go together every time
As a Millwright, bearing removal is common. To remove that outer race instead of welding that bar (or disc) inside it, all you do is lay a bead of weld inside about 1/4 of the race. Let it cool and the race will shrink, and literally fall out. Cudos for using dissimilar temperatures on matching parts for install. The easy way.
I have never built one of these transmissions for my overland rig and was having trouble finding a imput shaft assembly video and this helped me just wanted to make sure I did it right! It was the only assembly video I found! Even though that was the wrong sized housing you helped me a ton!
Thats great to hear glad I could help! A bit of advice, while youre at it remove the rear tailhousing and check to make sure the 5th gear isnt having any issues (locknut should be tight, splines holding it on shouldnt be damaged). Mine ended up having issues and now im rebuilding the whole transmission. New video on that in a couple weeks!
Suggest that you look at other videos which address the fifth gear retainer nut problem !! Should deal with it while you have the transmission on the bench.
I know this is an old video / comment. But if guys see this....Just know that the GM variant did not have the same issues with this as Dodge. Also unless the synchronizers have been previously swapped out those were not brass. The NV4500 uses some sort of carbon fiber material which requires special fluid. Brass synchronizers are a very common replacement part / upgrade tho.
You do not need to adapt a transmission to a clutch plate, you can swap the clutch to match the trans. I am using a clutch plate for an Edsel to mate to my Mazda trans so I can install a 302 engine. As long as the teeth and shaft diameter and the clutch diameter match up you can use it.
Good tip! If I recall correctly the stock clutch that had less splines was also a smaller clutch, so I figured if I wanted to keep it "stock-like" it'd be better to go with a bigger shaft. However I'm sure there's something available aftermarket!
I have stick welded a bead of weld all the way around the inner race on a truck diff the weld causes the bearing to decrease in size it just fell out. Good job though.
if that motor will make any power at all id recommend pulling the 1.250 shaft and going to the bigger 1.375 shaft and a nv5600 sized clutch. The 12" clutch and small shaft wont hold up to much at all.
Good advice! As far as I understood the nv4500 setup with the 1 1/4 shaft and 12 1/4" clutch was a stock like setup on dodges, so I assumed it would be fine especially considering how light the explorer is compared to a ram 2500. However if I run into issues with it it's good to know an nv5600 like clutch is an option.
I know this is two years old, but just out of curiosity how did the chevy gearing work out? I have a chevy with the 6.5td and a dodge with the 5.9 12v cummins. Both have the nv4500 but my dodge has a HUGE ratio split from 2nd to 3rd gear. The chevy is way closer ratio. Not sure why dodge thought that was a good thing. It makes getting a trailer moving uphill pretty frustrating.
I think it worked well, but I haven't driven one with the dodge gearing and I haven't towed yet. I don't use 1st normally, start in second, seems to be a good split to 3rd. The explorer is super light though so that may impact it. I'm pretty happy with this transmission so far - although it did eat the 5th gear and I had to rebuild it. Video of that is here if you're interested: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xma_BohVeww.html
See if you can apply heat only to the inner race and see if that helps. Also you wont harm it hammering on the inner race if you can get a punch deeper in there without touching the outer race. Id also consider a press or a bearing puller. If none of that works then just accept that youll have to cut it and buy a new one. If so cut it most of the way through then use a cold chisel to break the last little bit apart. That way you wont mar the shaft. Good luck!
Would a bad input shaft on one of these sound like a wheel bearing going bad? Goes away when clutch is pressed and can be heard in neutral and all throughout the gears.
Good question, it definitely could be. If it were me Id check the trans with a mechanics stethoscope and if the noise is coming from anywhere around the bellhousing or transmission then youll have to pull the trans no matter what the problem is, may as well pull it and check this bearing first. While its out take a look through the top like I did make sure theres no other obvious issues.
