How repair an inflatable boat puncture - best practice 

You're welcome!

True, if it works it works

How does it stand up to the deflation and folding? I have an inexpensive HydroForce boat that I think has a leak. I need to locate it first

@@bebeslife4519, use soapy water to locate the leak; then, apply the patch (the one included in the repair kit which came with the boat). If you apply the patch when the boat is inflated, which is the way to go (it's also generally easier), and you keep the boat inflated long enough for the glue to dry completely and settle, the patch will be fine no matter how many times you will inflate and deflate the boat thereafter.

@@hntrains2 Thanks. I eventually solved it another way. It was a really slow leak and it wouldn’t be noticeable until 3-4 days fully inflated. I didn’t think I would have much luck finding it with soapy water. I put a good amount of tire slime in the chamber. I’ve had lots of luck using it in bike tires, and wagon tires, tubed and tubeless. This worked and it doesn’t seem to loose air at all. Been about 5 months but have last had it inflated about 3 months ago.

@@bebeslife4519, good to hear that!

so u have to glue in antartica

where can i buy those patches?

I call BS

Hi Viggo, it is PVC based fabric. For more information please refer to - truekit.net/pages/technical-information

You can check out a blog post on the home page of our website about repairing inflatables which has all the details

You will have to check and see what is available but Polymarine have a 2-part adhesive available in most places

I repaired my inflatable boat over a year ago using a $2 bicycle tire puncture repair kit. To this day it hasn't leaked

Your looking for rubbing strake.

We would recommend sanding hypalon but not pvc but each pro uses a slightly different method. The solvent we use is stronger than MEK and does a better job of dulling and priming the surface

@@TRUEKITINFLATABLES Definitely have to use a different technique "sanding pvc with electric tools. Tried both ways nd I still favor sanding, but the MEk way is certainly easier At take out the other day Mandy called me over to her boat. Everything was coming off tri d/handles, top chafe wrinkling, etc on her Rocky Mountain Raft,. i said to her I, I don't know if it matters but the builders don't abraid surfaces to be glued and but I always do. She looked down and pointed to the footcups I had put in 10 years ago when the raft was new(I had forgotten I had done those) and said," I think it does". Not a corner or edge of any of the 6 cups were up. Not proof, I know, but it made me feel good.

Unigrip 999HR

Any decent vinyl glue is good, It's not the glue that causes repairs to fail(okay is it's not pipe glue, or Elmers or JB Weld, etc.) Helps to have someone there who's good at it when it's your 1st time. I use Clifton or Staybond. Clifton Hyp fpr hypalon. Bostic works well for hyp, but is much too thick-thin with Toluene to a little thicker than pancake syrup.

If you use a high tack quality adhesive and have reasonably low pressure in the tube you wont have any problems. If you are using a lower tack adhesive, it will probably be best to do the repair with no air in the tube.

3m 4200 is the best product known to man. 7ys in business tells me so

That would depend on the size of the hole/split. This was a small repair and over a seam. It probably did work, but generally speaking, you'd (When patching over a seam) widen the hole, put a patch in behind the hole, and then (Whenever the glue is fully dried) re-inflate the tube and apply the patch the way the man did. You can, by all means, do repairs with deflated tubes. Plus, when applying pressure to the patch using a spatula, a semi inflated tube will cause ripples in the patch, so not a good idea. Also, using heat to take off a patch is (Okay) but you can also use solvents to loosen the glue. In fact, on many plastic/rubber boats, this is the only option...

No the obvious is not obvious. Try that with an inside patch or a boot replacement.

If the hole is so big that you are worried about the glue going through, you can apply a patch on the inside also. If it is only small just patch outside in a deflated state, them after it has been applied fill the tube with a little bit of air, enough to separate the 2 sides of the tube. I would recommend to use a pvc glue for your kayak but you have to use what you can get your hands on

@@TRUEKITINFLATABLES Thank you so much, I will give it a shot but when I do search online on Bunnings pvc glue shows only cement solvent and pvc welding cement. Would you be able to recommend a brand? Loved your video with clear instructions. Take care and stay well.

Any inflatable product is capable of being punctured so you need to take common sense precautions like using a net and dropping fish into a fish bin. Our boats are used for fishing everyday with few problems. All True Kit boats have multiple chambers as a safety measure. You wouldn't use this procedure out on the water, you would do a temporary repair using a one pot glue and do it this way when you had the time and access to materials to do a permanent repair.

@@TRUEKITINFLATABLES Thanks for your reply.

Tear-Aid is the answer. Carry it on every tip. No glue needed.

This might help -truekit.net/blogs/news/how-to-repair-your-inflatable-boat

The protective rubbing strip is rubber

@@TRUEKITINFLATABLES Funny on an Avon that's the only plastic piece and the only piece that tends to come off(and the id#, also on plastic because hyp glue was used when I put them back on vinyl glue is used to stick the plastic "rubstrake" to the hyp tube.

Yes it will work but needs to be primed first correctly

@@TRUEKITINFLATABLES Thanks, how do you prime it correctly please, and what to use?

Do not use Bostic for this . For rubber or hyp to pvc use vinyl glue. If bonding to wood I use 1 or 2 extra coats on the wood.

A hair dryer is fine, you are just warming up the glue so it will be hot enough

@@TRUEKITINFLATABLES thanks! That was quick. 😁

It gives a smoother patch but always let the air out straight after the patch is applied to prevent back pressure. I might have forgotten to include in the video. Alternatively you can do it in a deflated state but sometimes it can make it harder to get into some areas depending on where it is

Only just enough to warm and activate the glue, no more. Definitely not so the glue blisters

Yes correct, not cleaned and prepped properly to allow a good bond. Often this is the way though when you are out in the field so it is best to do a proper repair when you get back home in the garage.

@@TRUEKITINFLATABLES And it's not much fun going behind someone who really heaped on the glue.

Valmex by Mehler

All depends on size, how many holes, has the customer found and identified the holes or do we need to. Not too much but also most people are capable to fix themselves

$15, but I start with a $30 or $60 handling/trouble shooting charge.

If it is a decent size puncture you should deflate the boat for bonding. Small nicks like this one you can get a smoother finish in a low pressure inflated state (you don't want high pressure in the tubes)