Was able to get my head gasket all fixed up due to your videos - no issues after 3 months . Thanks so much for all your details and time to put this together 👍👍
I was going to buy a king ranch powerstroke but I’m a DIYer and when I saw the cab needed to be removed I saw a few of your videos on the cummins and I’m in love now.
Excellant video, including all torque specs would be helpful, also removing the passenger side fenderwell made access to the 4 rear exhaust bolts much easier. also putting an old pillow on top of the motor and laying on top made it easier to reach behind the head and remove the 17 mm fuel banjo bolt on the back of the head. And one last thing the OEM Cummins head gasket is not marked Top or Bottom but the number go up so you can read them and the design of the dowel pins only allows you to install it correctly the pin in the back is slightly larger than the front pin. Thanks!
Just want to say thanks for doing the video! I’m 52 years old and have always worked on gas motors. I have owned several 5.9 cummins trucks in the past and bought my 2012 two years ago. It started bubbling in the overflow jug about two weeks ago and I thought it was the rad cap. Replaced it same thing. I took it and ran it hard, pulled over and checked the overflow and it was full and bubbling out. Came back home watched your video and started tearing her down. Once I had the head off I checked the gasket and it looked fine, no cracks and no rusted places. I got worried thinking it maybe cracked somewhere. Took it to the machine shop where the pressure tested and resurfaced. When I picked it up they told me it was warped and to make sure I used studs when installing it. Great video! Taking it off was a breeze. On to the install video.
Just got the bottom clip off by running para cord through it from the passenger tire side. First on the clip to get one side off. Then ran it back though the hole from that side. Yanked it off pretty quick. Thanks for the video. Great information.
Walked me right through it man, thanks! Im stoked that I don’t have to actually remove the turbo and manifold. I’ll finish yanking the head in the morning and off to the machine shop she goes!
Awesome video, thank you. My 2010 6.7 is using coolant, not sure yet if its the head gasket. I haven't been driving it much lately so I need to do some diagnosing. This last week I just rebuilt the whole front end, steering, hubs, ball joints, u-joints, trans service, etc. 122K. I deleted everything when it had 20K. Your video gives me confidence that I can do the head gasket myself. Thanks!
Great video man .Will definitely save me some time . Apparently that bracket behind injector line #6 is to protect the passengers from high pressure fuel in case of an accident.
I can’t thank you enough, the video outlined and highlighted everything that needed to be watched out for, I’m hoping most of the info from the video transfers over to a 2008 1/2 6.7.
I want to give you . My full tanks to you. Brother ,for the espetial TIME INSTRUCCTION on this job 6.7 cummins. And i beleive ,its NOT only one . From the ones we try to doe this job --> on your own way. Who RECEIVED THE GREAT FINAL PROCCESS , LIKE YOU. i,m very very full satisfied with your experience to doe this work with strong Quality.. your hope was , complette power full ON MY FAITH. i did the job and YES the dodge ram 3500 - 6.7 cummins STAR exactly like you expect to see on everyones who trust you. AND I WOULD LIKE TO SAY .. all honor is to THE KING OF HEAVEN .
i have a 12 leaking oil pass side back of the head. im watching this pre doing it. and im gunna watch it again. im thinking its a blown head gasket on the oil passage side at the back. anyways this is excellent im gunna watch the install and learn as much as i can about this prior to doing this so that there wont be any supprises.
Was very helpful I'm looking forward to doing mine now..... thank you.....I'm also having a battery draining problem that I can figure out....any info on that would help out also....thanks again
If you remove right inner fender, you would gain pretty nice access to the back bolts of exhaust manifold. When I replaced manifold gaskets, i used it, even with air gun, oh wait, 2500 and 3500 any different in there?
I’m struggling with the pipe that goes across the bottom studs of the exhaust manifold. I have it unbolted everywhere but no matter what I do it won’t pop off the stud. Do you guys unhook the back line that appears to go to the heater core? It seems like it won’t come off because it is pressed right against the turbo.
On start up I noticed a white smoke on the pipe I assumed moisture I noticed it around 140k at 195k I did a delete and at 200k I noticed I left a bolt loose on the front of the exhaust manifold and there was bubble coming out of that flange and at the turbo flange it was mild and stops after 30 seconds the only thing I can think of is a leaky head gasket ... The job doesn't look to bad just tedious but I can deal with that since the job is pretty pricey labor wise so I figure head studs and at 200k nee injectors while in there . At least it's an inline 6 the Cummins had to be the easiest to do this out of the 3 hd trucks .
Excellent presentation, I see that some shops pull the cab off to work on Diesel engines. Why do they pull the cabs, and is it more cost effective to pull the cabs vs not pulling the cab?
Thanks! On some trucks you have to pull the cab off in order to get at all the bolts and have enough room to pull the head bolts out. An example of this would be a 6.4 powerstroke. On a Cummins like in the video you could pull the cab but it’s easy enough that no one really pulls the cab for a head gasket job. Then if you look at a duramax engine, it is possible to change it in the engine without pulling the cab but some guys prefer to pull the cab to make their life easier. It is about the same labor times either way. You can pull the cab which takes longer but then you can disassemble the engine super quick when it’s out of your way, or you can leave the cab on and just take longer getting the engine apart. Hope that kind of made sense for ya!
I know this really is not that hard of a job but when i was working allot i unfortunately let my dad handle witch shop to take it to. he took it to a dealer they did everything and a week later it started overheating again. i don't believe its a cracked head really only overheated under power, they didn't have the head machined and it had 230k miles. sent it back to them hopefully i can make them foot the bill ( i also had arp studs installed the first time so hopefully it was because it was not done correctly the first time if the head is good im going to do re torques.
they are saying my head gasket is bad on my 09 6.7 but there isnt any blow by, oil in the coolant nor coolant in the oil. What is your thoughts on it being bad. If the radiator is full and coolant tank is propper it will push coolant out until the radiator is about a 1/3 low. Thanks Tom, If you want my number let me know if you want to chat. Just dont want to pay the guy 6500 if thats not what it is.
I’m thinking of pulling the head to get a look at the valves and piston surface because after getting my turbo rebuilt and installed, I was confirming that I had boost in town and the grid heater bolt got sucked into I assume cyl 6 (after removing the assembly it’s confirmed MIA) How screwed am I and should I just put that effort into replacing the engine?
@@darkirondiesel The bolt is embedded into piston #6 under an exhaust valve that also got bent and the valve seat took a whooping as well. With the damage to top of the piston.. should I change it, or just remove the embedded bolt and run it after fixing the valves/head? What would you do?
I guess it could work, but then you would have to unbolt the turbo from it, or else unbolt the exhaust from the turbo, and all the oil/coolant lines on the turbo and pull it all out together, but in my opinion the way I did it is the easiest and makes the most sense. Remember you will still have to unbolt the coolant line bracket from the bottom rear exhaust manifold stud.
I’m going to be using both your videos on this to do this job myself. I have a question though. Do you have to drain the coolant completely out of the truck before you start?
Steve moody Hey I’m getting to change out my cylinder head cover off because the shop that did some work to my truck and they stripped a couple of nut’s that hold down my crankcase breather cover down and I could not clear my perform service lite, I need to know how much torque is needed to hold down the cylinder head cover,or where can I go to find this info Thanks.
The machine shop that resurfaced my head also strips it right down and reassembles with new hardware so I’m assuming the valves were relapped if they needed it. It for sure got new guides/seals
Do u think i need to Resurfaced head if im just going to put a gasket ad arp studes the truck didn't over heat or anything just going to replace piston rings for excessive blowby and add studs
I would 100% recommend getting the head resurfaced and pressure tested. If you are going through all the work to do piston rings and head gasket etc you might as well do it right and get the head done as well.
He doesn't advocate disassembling the injectors and if you are like me you wanted to clean up everything while your head is at the machine shop. I highly suggest that you don't dissasemble fuel injectors, they will never work correctly again unless you take them to a professional injector rebuilder. Just use some carb cleaner and a wire brush and clean the tips thouroughly. The holes on the tip of the injector are extemely small and even with my camera magnification I could barely see them. If you want them cleaned send them in to a professional injector cleaning company it will cost $300-400 but that is much cheaper than replacing injectors.
Honestly I love it haha it was only $750 CAD and I’ve had it for like 4 years now. Haven’t had a single issue with it. The drawers all lock too, so when you open it you slide a tab over with your finger and it unlatches. Super handy for rolling the box around not having the drawers slide open on you.
This is my first deisel I am thinking it is the head gasket I am getting no heat in the cab have replaced T-stat flushed the coolant system do you think this is the problem if it is I will using you videos to do the job thanks
No heat in the cab is a sign of a failed head gasket, but you could also have a plugged heater core. Is your cooling system pressuring up? Because that’s another good indicator of headgasket.
@@darkirondiesel I have an appointment to get it checked the more I thought about it I was like I think I am just going to have it done by professionals
Without headstuds installed, Yes. Its mostly to do with the restrictive nature of the vgt turbo driving pressure up and the smaller surface area between cylinder bores (smaller then the 5.9)
Hello I see your videos they are really interesting, I have 2017 ram 3500 6.7 when I bought it ,it had 91k miles I did 25k miles and recently it started to leak coolant I can’t find grime where , every 300 miles I needs to add half gallon coolant. It has only coolant leak the rest works great no overheat, temperature always stays at 195F no engine light nothing the truck works great.I asked local mechanic and they said that it need head gasket replacement so I don’t know how to check to be sure that it is really head gasket do you have any recommendations?
Dark iron diesel.. Question. I have a 2011 dodge ram 3500 3 time head gasket has blown. Its been studded I spoke to a diesel mechanic that builds pulley trucks in Kentucky. He was saying the only way they were able to keep them from blowing is to fire ring the head.. Whats your thoughts 🤔
I’d have to look back to see what I purchased. But basically I buy a kit that comes with all the stuff you need to do the head gasket including the head gasket itself. Only thing you have to buy is the head studs separately, and the fuel filter/oil filter etc
It’s amazing how often you lift the hood of a well appointed truck to a filthy engine🤷♂️🤷♂️ I would have cleaned the engine bay before disassembly. Just sayin’.
@@darkirondiesel ..I've done the LB7's LML's and the LMM's.. I've done the 6.7's aswell and I gotta say it's much much easier when the front clips are off.. gives you so much room too see, and you can pull the entire head straight forward instead of wrestling with it.. especially if you got to reach behind the head.. you don't want to be kneeling on the radiator.. it's easier if your standing infront of the engine block..