Thanks for watching my video! Want more Car Audio Videos? Here are some of my most popular videos and projects you can watch! 5 common NOOB Mistakes - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1FTsmUCbvoM.html Amplifier Tuning How To - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tiOUd3NkOyQ.html Custom A-Pillar Speakers - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-neDSi4g1CeQ.html 4 Mistakes that kill bass - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hXOnkOXvznI.html How to Build a T-Line Subwoofer Box - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KuBTuUdy460.html
I have 4 door speakers rated at 125 watts RMS and are 8 ohm. I bought a 4 channel amp that was supposed to be 150watt RMS per channel but actually are around 80 watt rms at 4 ohms. If I parallel the speakers to 4 ohms and bridged the 4 channel amp to 2 channels then how many watts am I going to get each speaker? Am I better off just running 1 speaker per channel?
A lot of youtube channels dont really answer questions that people have. Luckily there's a lot of information to all sorts of specific questions. You just have to be persistent in finding them.
thornygravy It's more a matter of him perfecting his trade.The guy is a master craftsmen with years of experience.He has all of the proper tools,know how and materials.Plus add in the fact that he does this for a living,day in and day out.
Jette Christensen Oh I have no doubt you can,anybody can(maybe not anybody).I really just enjoy watching his videos for entertainment purposes.I would never take my installs to these levels nor would I spend the money on the needed equipment. An average Joe like me who enjoys car audio on the side can build a great system from the ground up with a 3rd of the tools Mark uses.It won't be nearly as pretty but it can sound just as good.
You truly love what you do, and your work speaks it. I wish more installers would take the time to learn not just installation, but the acoustics behind the installation as you do. You have set the bar even higher! This is amazing work! Thank you for showing us would can be done!
I just made some adapters out of mdf for my rear door speakers. Was feeling nice, about to seal up and mount the door panel for the last time, then I saw this vid... dam!! I am going to redo everything....
You are welcome! Thanks for watching! This is a perfect example of how installing something correctly and taking the time for a few extra steps can really pay off.
Crutchfield and Amazon both sell the Roadkill FAST foam baffle rings from Stinger that will act as a foam enclosure to direct your speaker sound outward. They're $25 a pair unless on sale. It's not the full mod effort CAF shows here but it'll help focus sound forward. I'd also suggest adding some sound deadening material behind the woofer cone somewhere. You may not care about road noise but it'll help quite a bit to dampen sound LEAVING your car, redirecting it toward the rider(s) and helping reduce the exterior noise so people outside aren't overly disturbed by your audio. If you have limited supply of dampening material, apply the most BEHIND the speaker so that you're at least dampening and redirecting sound where the source is. It'll be best to apply throughout each door your speaker is mounted but localizing it is always the most effective application when working without an excess of materials. Thanks to CAF for all these tutorials. Learning plenty on the manufacturing side of the car audio process that I didn't know would make such a big difference.
You're living the dream. I've always had a goal of creating a car stereo that rivals a home stereo in clarity and imaging. It looks like you've got the techniques to achieve such a reality. Nice.
Nice addition with the foam. We would always space the speaker until it was as close to the panel without touching as possible so you wouldn't get any refraction from being recessed so much though the foam should absorb any soundwaves as opposed to reflecting them. Good work.
+Sean B Thanks Sean! If you would like to help support the making of the videos check out my Patreon site: www.patreon.com/caraudiofabrication If you can't afford it no big deal just thought I would ask! Thanks for watching.
I did something similar except for the fact that my stock pioneer speakers were Integrated with the bracket aka basket. So I cut off the speaker off the bracketwith a dremel ,RIP pioneer speaker, Used the stock foam cushion, and mated the new kicker speaker to the factory basket and connectors . The new speaker looks and sounds great . This video gave a thee idea 💡! Thanks
from watching this video (excellent content btw) I've used the foam rings in my door speakers and they make a great job of cleaning up any remaining distortion or vibration transfered into the door card, sound deadening and foam rings are an absolute must for quality sound before anything else.
again another quality video ..I'm in the process of upgrading my mid and hi range speakers .. instead of bugging my installer buddies I just watch your tutorials. . a1 advice and I thank you for making my car audio installations the best they can be
Installed these in my MK4 jetta - have Polk MM6501 and thought they were good - WOW I cant believe the difference just adding these little pieces of foam made - unreal! so much mid bass now
Great video CAF. This will certainly make the sound quality from the RE Audio component speakers even better, when I install them into my vehicle. Robert Coffey you made an excellent point about the screws. Without your imput I would have used the standard screws which could have been bad news for the speakers, so thank you.
I'm going to try this for my new 6.5s. It can be done just takes some time. Im pumped I want that full mid bass!! I have a dremel with all the attachments.
You really followed this and did exactly what he did? I'm only asking because I'd love to be able to do this but these all look like expensive tools that take up room and i live in a condo. Lol
Those factory speakers adapters were way nicer than any truck I've owned or had the door panels off of... Way nicer. My stock speakers on all my vehicles didn't have fancy composite spacers and foam trim pieces. Nope. Just built in metal brackets that were part of the inner door structure and no foam, just the cheap paper cone speakers. Hecho en Mexico. Lol.
I enjoy all of CAF videos! I'll request that some videos be done with the items normal people like me have. One piece of plywood, some screws and maybe $100 to invest at a hardware store and/or audio store. Implying we already have speakers, power to the rear and some sort of amp.
I'm for sure making these. I can use the same items in description and follow each step exactly except i'm gonna have to put together 2 rings of 3/4" HDPE since my factory speaker mount is bigger than the one in the video. Also, my factory speaker is about 1/4 inch shorter than the focal aftermarkets i'm installing. that will give me 1.75" to work with and the glass shouldn't touch the speaker.
People saying you're jealous of tools and the talent- you can get there too! It doesn't come overnight. It's late nights spent reading and reading and collecting used tools as you go. Trial and error after error after error.
Wd40 is the worst thing to use for lubing any kind of cutting tool! Makes the cutting sheer slip and prevents it from cutting .for max cutting yields use cutting tool oil! Special friction modifiers help get a good bite on the cut while keeping the bit cool. Just an fyi! Love your vedios!👍
first time doing this kind of install. I just got some hertz components speakers and I want to make sure I get all of my money's worth out of these speakers. going to take my time with this install.
This is an awesome video but ,in case you guys dont have these tools you can always order specifically made brackets for your vehicle, and use these techniques. some speakers comes with foam and you can always add sound damping material. Theres many custom made brackets for sale, on metra or cruthfield
The one thing I didn't do when I replaced my stock speakers was use a foam surround. I sealed the speaker, used 2 layers of dynamat both inside and outer side of door to seal it up from back waves. Got the JL Audio C3 600 speakers and they don't have much mid bass.
this channel really really makes me want to get into audio fabrication, however, I don't really want to do too much to my speakers... till my truck actually goes in reverse.
It is so true, not that you need my approval of course. One thing I've done that I do with Hi-Fi speaker builds is using speaker mounting tape aka speaker culke. Along with sound treating the surfaces it makes a difference(If clearance is an issue then this could help too for £3-4 at loudspeakerfreaks) Great video as always :)
I did this...made a world of difference on the mid bass output of my jl c-250 6.5's in the doors of my hrv, it looked like the foam was sticking out way too far, but the door panels went back on no problem
Awesome Video! I'm plagued with terrible mid bass in my Silverado. Huge dead spots makes almost an anti-sound tone. It's the oddest thing I've ever heard.
Salute!/, big ups to you my good brother, i definitely want to say. I appreciate your O,bsessive C,reative D,esigns 👌 👍. I've been installing since early 2000's. Home audio,,structured cabling. I do few car audio installs a year. You've got a great approach to your skill. I like that you give a great review and recommend tools you use. And you've definitely mastered explaining. You've got a lot of work involved in these vids,, much appreciated bro! And, I recommend you specifically for that!, Peace to you&yours, *****like***** lol 😎 ✌️
Just in time.. Great Tips. Getting ready for an install in my 2013 F-150. Now if I can just find the Illumination Wire for the radio. Good by Basic sync audio system.
I love your vids man. Can you show us how to mathematically calculate the tuning frequency for a ported box before the Box is built ? This is one problem I can't seem to figure out. I know there is box calculators online but I want to know how to do it on paper
One thing, speaker never sound better in plastic box, it sound's more better in wood box. so, wood pods are better, just you have to use some materials protect pods from elements, like truck bedliner. Other thing, for speaker holes use a drill that drills 100 proc. straight, thats a portative drill maschine whitch can be screwed on to the working table. Fast rings are really good thing, thats for shure :) Anyways, good work guys, seems factory level, not noticable ;)
***** Yes that is true. There is many manufactures who use plastic for enclosers however wooden boxes sound much better and is used by top manufactures for top of the line products like Yamaha NS690 II, Tosil Altus 300 or Pioneer Z83D. Btw logitech is not best example of premium audio company.
paper cone well give u a clean sound poly cone is good too but paper cone well have give u ideal sound than doing all that it was well done by the way good job
Hey mark, thanks for the video, awesome as always. I wanted to ask whats the reasoning behind having two different types of plastic? Why not make the ring and bottom plate from same type of plastic?
Those speakers you installed, look identical to the ones I just installed but they're not the same brand. They're "Lanzar OPTI6M-8 500 Watt 6.5-Inch Midbass" and they sound pretty f*cking awesome for being non name brand.
01:00 You talked about how the speakers come spaced to give space for the window mechanism. But then proceeded to put a huge piece of foam on the back of the speaker. Lol
Nice job 👌,.. how do we know when it’s a foam that reflects sound waves and when it’s a foam that absorbs sound waves and in what car audio application do we want to reflect vs want to absorb sound?
Wow you still deserve a thumb up :D This job look very professional Seriously very neat. Question his did the door panel fit easy with the space you loose by adding plastic etc ???
When I was competing in IASCA SQ competition mid bass seemed to be the thing most installs didn't have enough of and impressed judges the most. A big factor seemed to be power, too many dedicated all their amplifier watts to their subs and didn't allocate enough for their front stage woofers- which often require up to 150w a side to get a lot of punch. The 6.5" components (old school Soundstream Exact) in fiberglass kickpods in my current install get 120w per channel and could do better but it's all I have from the a/d/s P840 I use.
I think mid bass is one of the most important things for tying everything together. Its easy to have bright sound as tweeters require no power to be screaming, but to warm things up and couple everything together you really need that mid bass, and as always, the install makes a huge difference.
CarAudioFabrication I guess it doesn't help that manufacturers of component speaker systems are very ambiguous about recommending the best enclosures, when you buy subs they are very detailed about what size box to build or what type it should be- installing 5.25's or 6.5's seems to be pure hit or miss. Screwed to a door with an open back, put into an enclosed kick pod, who knows?
For $3500 MSRP I'd hope so.... :-) never owned any alpine speakers, have had some of their source units and amps in the '80's...back when there was alpine then there was everything else below them. When "enough mid bass" seemed to be 13's in kick panels (femi adeoke's gran prix, earl zausmer's BMW) I quit competing.
can you further explain mid bass (no bullet) speakers and midrange speakers (bullet). if you can compare witch is best to use for certain applications.
