Nice video. Your almost there. Run a straightedge from turn table to turn table and square them up to each other so your 20/20 is car centered and accurate. Use the steel spare wheel/tire in the trunk so you can go straight to the car disc hub with the magnet mount to avoid wheel imperfections. Toe measurements with the tape/string method will be a little fuzzy because of tire imperfections/deviations, so we got to do a little better. For the toe. Make a pair of "perfectly square" 3x7 foot right angles from perfectly straight metal of choice. Graduate the 3-foot legs in 32 seconds of an inch starting from "exactly" the centering dimple on the hub spindle. Run a tapered centering bolt through each 3-foot leg into each spindle dimple for that. Attach one 3-foot leg to each hub, this will require a spacer and attachment method that you deem 100% square/accurate. You will need to use 2 steel wheels so you can go straight to the hub. Read the individual toe for each tire where the 7-foot legs cross over the graduated 3-foot legs in front of the tires. Dead nuts accurate every time.
Thanks for sharing. These are a lot of great tips on how to improve on the process. Maybe this winter I will go ahead and redo the alignment with these tips and see what the delta is. Your comment is a great way to improve on the process of my "within the range" and change it to dead nuts accurate to a target.
My pleasure. I was sitting here, having had many Mustangs, and imagining driving your car down the interstate at 70 with it running perfectly straight with no reaction to wind or road crown. And the tires and driveshaft balanced like a gyroscope. And the carb and ignition working like new money. And how nice to drive some of the old cars really are. And being happy for you that you have that car. And thinking about how the devil is in the details. I hate that detail part, I don't got time for details, I got to get out and drive some of my old cars down the interstate today. @@SmackeysGarage
I need to adjust my 67. The drivers side is about the right - camber, but the passenger side has a slight + camber.. 🥴 it's been like this a few years so looking at adjusting it now
dude! Everything effects the toe for me. i'm trying to rough in the alignment on a 63 thunderbird. The PO changed the steering box or had it done rather and they never did an alignment. it was pulling to the left and right front had toe in and left front had toe out. I don't have two nuts like you do, just one big nut and there wasn't even a cotter pin in it. thanks for the video. I understand the suspension a lot better, but i may get a pro to finish this up. I'm afraid i'll put something in a bind.
Glad I could provide some guidance and awesome you have a 63 thunderbird! There is no shame in getting a pro to do the alignment. They have better and more accurate systems than anything that is available consumer grade.
Thanks for another how to. I’m keeping stock suspension but just replacing with modern parts. Polyurethane I heard gives a bit stiffer a ride over the traditional rubber, but I’ll take the longevity over comfort in this aspect. We’re already doing the final assembly and the last needed items are trickling in. Loved to compare cars at a show together someday.
@@SmackeysGarage west coast but once it’s done, gonna snag the wife for a few road trips. Got peeps in Florida I’d like to see and maybe go to Disneyworld before the apocalypse. My stepdad retired from Disney in SoCal after 35 years. I was there for the strike back in the day and we had Disney stock my mom sold off in the divorce for a quick few thousand. This despite his best efforts to leave it for us boys. I don’t fret over it but man can you imagine the share value now?
Nice. If you swing by Massachusetts or somewhere a bit south of it let me know! Lots of great shows around here. Disney is great, I'm sure you will have a great time.
Yes, I do. They originated from Open Tracker Racing. You can always adjust to your liking after driving it for a while. opentrackerracing.com/technical/
It wasn't too bad to do. You'll definitely spend time going back and forth between measuring and adjusting. Then going back again to measuring and adjusting. I'd recommend buying quality tools for taking the measurements.
It is part of the alignment. It shifts the upper A-Arm out if necessary. I was able to use the bottom control arm concentric bolt to shift camber. If you didn't have enough adjustment for some reason you could use shims to adjust it "some." I'd be checking to see if the shock towers have shifted inwards over time though if you don't have enough adjustment at the lower control arm.
Doesn't mean the car will track straight. If right was toe out .5 inches and the left was toe in 1.0 inches the way you measure the car would have negative .5 inches of toe but the car would still track right. You would still need to pull a string from front to rear to make sure car is tracking straight then toe in each tire the same on each side.
This is a total bs video. You've never done a front end alignment in all your life. Please take it down so you don't confuse and mislead guys trying to learn. I've done it for 60 years. Would you want me to do a video on open heart surgery?
