Welcome to Smackey's Garage! Show up, work on my 1969 Mustang and other classic cars and trucks (and anything else with an engine), and spend the evening relaxing in the garage while I do the work.
This channel is one man's journey through many projects that happen in the garage. Join the fun by subscribing to follow as I build up a garage in my new house, fix up and restore classic cars, modify my vehicles, and try out new car parts and tools.
Current Vehicles and Projects 1969 Mustang Mach 1 2008 Factory Five GTM 2013 Shelby GT500 2015 Audi A4 2.0T 2018 F150 2007 SkiDoo Renegade (Snowmobile)
I've been pulling my hair out trying to figure out why I can't get my Expedition to stop saying trailer disconnected. I got an identical counterfeit part from Ebay. I was about to go waste money at the dealership. I also found a guy on reddit that said he used the one with the red wire in it and it drains his battery and works but will not stop saying trailer disconnected but your video solved it for me. Thank you so much.
You are welcome! Did you use FORscan and enable it? A lot of people have reported what you saw. They purchased it, it appears to be working, but when they try and use the foot pedal it doesn't brake.
@SmackeysGarage Yeah I used Forscan. I thought I was doing something wrong because my 2019 expedition max limited only had the "enable trailer brake control" no enable gain setting. It worked for lights and manual brake but every time you squeeze it said trailer disconnected. Gain buttons adjusted gain but immediately said no trailer. It was killing my battery also. It was hot when I removed it.
After barely getting one of mine off, I changed them out on both our vehicles awhile back. I had never heard of these type of nuts before. No more worries.
Yea, that's what started me watching mine. The Ford ones do well if you don't use an impact on them. I've never had one corrode or rust unless the impact did damage the outer shell.
Hi. I’ve been seeing on different vapor canister sellers sites that you’re supposed to mount it high. Above the fuel filler at minimum. Just fyi. I’m still learning about these things
I followed your easy instructions and it went pretty smooth. The only flaw was the band to compress the shocks was tooooooo long. I ended up using a pry bar and some bicep grease to fit them up. I like them. Much smoother than the probably stock shocks from 2013 (I bought it used in 2015).
if you do all your own work on your vehicle. change whatever you want. customers are not always right. that saying has never been correct or a complete sentence. customers are only right when it comes to matters of taste. not work to be done.
car brands dont manufacture their lug nuts and never have. the fact is every brand gets their nuts from different manufacturers of nuts and bolts. blaming ford for something they dont make is rather fuckin wrong. wheel lug nuts dont actually require being torqued to any specific number. tight is tight.
That's usually how my projects go too. The ones that should be easy take all day, and the ones I think will be hard end up a lot easier than I expected.
I replaced mine last fall on my 19' Lariat with a 1pc lug nut,didn't make it thru a Nova Scotia Canada winter ,rusted to bits.Took them off ,back to oem
I have a gremlin with a 383 stroker. It starts runs then dies going down the road. Have to let it sit a couple mins and it starts runs then dies again. Could it be a float problem?
Awesome video brother. Thanks for sharing. I have those 2 piece lug nuts on my 2013 Ford Fusion. Need to order replacements. Keep the content coming. Enjoy your day
At least you're not dealing with a split rim on an old semi. Those things are killers. The demountable is fine, but the demoutable portion having the split in it made them EXTREMELY lethal. Just the demountable rim would be great today because tires changes would go a LOT faster.
@@SmackeysGarage Yeah, they are an interesting item. Having the portion of the rim where the bead of the tire mounts separate from the rest of the wheel allows the spare to be inflated the whole time. Those need to come back, minus the split in the rim that could fail and make it a projectile.
Always a possibility. I typically set it and then let it run for a few minutes before I check the fluid level again. Sometimes it takes some fiddling with to get close.
@@MrADVANCEDTEK that happened to me and I could not figure out that my 21 mm socket always got stuck on it and did not slide all the way over the Nut, haha. Did not think that anyone would add a sleeve to the nut (soft one, too). Thanks for forums like this we can learn.
In my case, I have an older 4150 850 cfm double pumper WITHOUT sight bowls. I assume you then need to remove the FB end the do it while its off the carb?
I have a 2016 Ford f150. And took my tow mirrors to a lighting specialist to do wiring. However, after driving it, the interior lighting would brighten and the Climate control would go off.. any idea?
Removed the fuel bowl from my brand new Holley 850 dp to change the main jets and found the gasket completely split from 9 to 3 o'clock. It came that way from Holley. Ordered new gasket, installed it and now I'm chasing a leak.
I use the Milwaukee Mid-Torque 1/2" impact P/N 2861. They don't make it anymore but you can still buy it for crazy money. I added the latest version to the description of the video. You can also pick it up locally at a home depot or similar store. I would highly recommend it.
thanks for the reminder to check mine, i park under a pine tree and ya they have a bad habit of getting clogged up. on a side note if you ever have a window break "mine had one on a previous owner" make sure they clean all the glass out before putting it back together as that really helps to clog things up
Seems to me is your window seal is not sealing... Second I would Highly recommend getting your truck and any other vehicle you have Krown rust protection... I costs like around $160.00 to do its like the old Ziebart they used to do.
