HOW TO | Aluminum Brick Mold Casing 

Try a 3/8" 90° bend and tuck it behind the yellow seal. Gives it a professional look.

Brother I had no idea that they had those profile machines. Up until today I consider myself well versed and bending aluminum. You have really opened my eyes. My prices are about to go up

I scrolled through the some of the comments to see if anybody already mentioned it and didn’t see anything. Was just going to mention using a sill trim piece. Easily bend them out of scrap ripped pieces and it only a few seconds to bend. Then you can run those up to the weather stripping with a clean edge and nail them on and slip your brick mold trim into it and not need to face nail anything and the hold is super tight. It all makes way more sense once you see it if you’ve never done it like that. Maybe you knew that, maybe you didnt. Just thought I’d share. I like to see how people do things different to see if I can improve anywhere. I’ll definitely be using your j-channel method, not that I was slow but you just proved to be more efficient. Well done 👍🏻

Looking good, I would normally leave a flap on them tops, that way you don't even have to caulk it, still looks good from my house.

I don't "square off" the wrap unless I know the customer doesn't plan on installing a storm door in the future. There's a lot of little things I do differently with my wraps but I have learned a ton from you, man. I wish you had more content that was relevant to window/door installation when I started doing exteriors. However, I did learn the score and snap method from one of your previous videos. I've taken a lot of your siding tricks and made them my own. Keep it up, bro!

I put the xtra 90 where the flat stock meets the weather strip and tuck it between the weatherstrip and the door frame, not sure if its correct but it gets rid of some unsightly nails and cleans up that edge. Great job man keep up the great work.

If you do a 3/8th return on your sheet metal pieces that you bent for the door (the part that you had measured at 2 5/8th), you can stuff that perfectly into the weaterstripping and it will not only seal off the wood it also holds it in place so tightly you may not even need trim nails. Keep up the great work brother, I've been watching this channel on and off for some time now.

I've got a brake buddy aswell I have the brick mould wheel and the rip wheel for the fascia. It helps us be unique in my area and offer something not alot of other guys do. Yes the rip def helps reduce oil canning. One other thing I do is silicone all my aluminum on and dont use alot of nails

Instead of caulking your upper corners when do your two verticals add half an inch and bend that half inch 90 with hand seamers. And against the weatherstripping install a sil with a hem then you slide your caps into them same as a gable trim. Use a soffit stapler to fasten through your vinyl J. You shouldn’t have any exposed fasteners. Congrats on that brake buddy. Nice tool !

Rookie capping job. No contour bending and using nails, looks cheaply done.

Put a reverse with a hem on the door side and rain flaps on your header return. You're supposed to trim the door before the J and use a 1"-1 1/2" reverse under the J to flash the door. That's how us Old School Vinyl Guy's do it. I even tape my reverse to the housewrap before hanging the J. I don't usually brake buddy my wraps because the miters look like crap.

Watched 2 of your video's and I really enjoy them. As a retired commercial electrician of 45 years I certainly appreciate quality work and your communication you have with your guys. At the end squeezing's that guys head and giving him the finger( but not). Funny! NOW, The big question how many people tell you you look like a small Baker Mayfield?? Quarterback???Browns NFL??? Great videos!!! RG

I'm a warehouse guy at beacon! Every time I see tribuilt stuff in your videos I get excited 🤣

I work for renewal by Andersen and we don't use nails, but your job have great quality... Congratulations

Gene Hackman’s in house y’all😂

Hey zack I want you to know that you inspired me to go ahead and make my own RU-vid channel... and wanted to thank you man! You’re a real inspiration

Looks great, I like the brick mould attachment. I also like the caulked door bottom

no need for caulking, attracts dirt and grime, especially on white aluminum. Instead of cutting the entire thing off, cut down on your bend and fold it 90 degrees.

Bend 3/8 tuck into door seal and top of the side jambs should be bent at a 90 that you don't have a gap where they meet if you do it this way you won't have exposed nails. Also cut the legs at the angle of the sill. I recommend the tapco gauges no need to keep pulling tape measure out.

Looks good 👍

turned out very slick man! I hired a guy to do my siding a couple years ago and he has done a such terrible job, I had to pull everything back apart to redo! at that time I was traveling for work and wasn't able to supervise anything, so that's on me. I'm planning on going back and capping all my brick molds on the door first before I put my siding back on!

Nice work! I prolly would have bent 1 tabs on the sides at the top to tuck under the head trim. It finishes a lot cleaner and protects the wood alot better from water

It's always great to see a real pro demo something. It really does help us DIY farm guys look better when we have a pole barn or chicken coop to build with metal siding and trim.... Because we got to see it done right.

Instead of cutting a big notch out of side pieces on the inside bend out an 1 1/2” + tab onto the header. It gives you a place to nail under a lap without the need for caulking. We used to make a small flange onto the buck reveal and nail the covers to the edge of the buck. Then we’d put a separate pan (tab at the top) to cover buck reveal nails and tucked behind the weatherstripping. This makes the cover backed by wood at the inside corner less vulnerable to inevitable impacts

Great video. Only thing I do differently is make a flap at the top instead of cutting out or in the slight angle you did it will close all that in and won’t have to caulk those corners.

Nice man. I like that black tool that bent it into a brick mold profile

You know man, I respect how fucking honest you are. We all fuck up in construction/ life. Nevermind the shit we talk, at the end of the day you're the one doing good work.

White coil lacquer thinner works great on a rag to wipe it down after installation. Do not use on any colors other than white! For color coil, use tub-o-towls they work great as well.

That molding tool is badass 👍🏽 I like to do a 1” bend with a hand brake on the inside top of the risers where you cut them off flush...that way the top inside corners are all aluminum vs having to caulk them. But clean job bro...I like the attention to detail

A real pro installs wood filler strips and takes the correct measurements so the metal wrap is tight to the wood trim. There is a way to make 45s look nice without leaving your wrap a 1/4 in away from the wood trim. If its not tight, it will dent very easily. Also as someone else mentioned the 3/8 tuck behind the sealer strip. I guess none of this matters if it just has to look nice until you get the check and ignore all the homeowners' callbacks lol

You are supposed to fold the top of your side piece so that it goes behind your header piece. It gives you a nice spot for a hidden nail. Also , The Edge meeting the weather seal should have a small return to go into the weather seal crack or that bare metal Edge should have a hem or should be returned into a piece of aluminum undersill caulked and nailed onto the wood. All three options illiminate rippling. The undersill nailed behind the trim peice illuminates the need for all face nails on that surface

I was not prepared for "golden like a shower"

Nice work! Great instructions!

Glad I could finally meet you and boycub!! Keep up the hard work! 🤠

Beast mode.

best wishs for your business/company

Those trim nails located where you put them will ensure that the weather stripping will be very difficult to replace

Your Work is CLEAN

You should nab yourself a cutting rack for the top of that break. It consists of I think 5 rollers on a mount with a rotating bracket arm and a table with measurements scribed on the side, your aluminum sits on the far end of the bracket, you roll out exactly how much you need (without having to use your tape) and then simply slide the cutter. Boom, in roughly 1.5 seconds you have the exact length of sheet you need, at an exact 90.

If you do a sill support and bend a 3/8 bend behind the weatherstrip then you can hide your nails and caulk the bottom

Nice thanks

Keep up the great work boss! Been a while for me watching. Happy Holidays!!

Avoid nailing by making another bend to fit between frame and jam.

10:44 I felt that reaction in my soul 🤣

OMG ahahahah at 8:03 when he said Mike.... i had my eyes closed for a few cause i was getting sleepy and i heard him say mike.. and i opened my eyes like wthhh, what is the chances, he says mike while my eyes are closed hahahh, and my name is mike to... tripped me out lol

Magic Eraser works wonders on trim coil to get the gray marks out!

Hell yea man. This is the stuff that people need. I like how simple you make it instead of the goobs on here who just want to show off there metal brake attachments. Nothing wrong with sawhorses and cutting on the ground!

I always see people scoring the metal with a knife, which is fine but dont run your knife all the way on the brake. It was mess up your teeth after a while on the brake. I usually score th metal about 3/4 of my length and then go from the other side. That way my knife tip never hits my brake teeth at all

If if you would have been that in 2 different pieces one for the break mode and the other for the jam you would have been able to install a storm door later

You’re a beast and everything you do. So when are you coming to work for me unless you need help then I’ll be ready to learn more to help in making my craft better. Thanks for the awesome content. It’s helped me a whole.

You should do that in two pieces so if u ever need to hang a storm door.

I love your job you are Sooooooo... amazing,😉💯⭐💯⭐💯⭐💯⭐💯⭐💥💥💥💥💥👏👏👏👏👏👏

One of the greatest tools invented for this thin aluminum

Just curious, can you cut a strip of composite to slide under the threshold to stop the flex when it’s stepped on.

If you hem your first bend it helps the brake buddy from slipping

Videos are always on point 👍🏻 i clean our metal with spray nine , can usually get it at home depot cleans the pvc coil nice as well along with the siding, give it a try you wont be disappointed

I like the idea of not caulking the bottom. If any water does get in behind the aluminum, it will be able to get out instead of just rotting the wood.

Your videos are awesome

i bend the brick mold and where it touches the inside3/8 jam i put 3/8 back bend on that then bend the inside jam 3/8 by whatever and 3/8 behind the weather sill.six pieces. incase they want a storm door later . i have six storm doors to install this week .i hate storm doors but i think there necessary.

Its a bit more cost but.run a bead of clear silicone.top bottom and full lenth .moisture and a bug barriers inner and outer.because water is driven by wind.helps with furniture moving snags too

Nice job

Wow.. never heard of a brake buddy. I'm about to attempt making that same angle by hand. Not my first time using the brake but my first time wrapping windows with multi angled aluminum. It's not hard though once you get the pattern down

Beautiful job

Looks good. Only advice I would give is to put a bend on the vertical legs to cover the gap that you needed to caulk. In my opinion less caulk is always better

Should have been snap-locked into a finish channel against the door. That can also be fabricated on the break or use vinyl. A raw edge there and face nailing is no Bueno

He’s hilarious his video

You did a nice tidy job there. Golden like a shower had me laughing big time! I have a question if you don't mind. Recently I had a new front door installed and they fastened the brick mold to the jam with small nails on the front face and then filled them (albeit badly) with putty. Is this a normal practice? I find some of them very noticeable. Thanks.

17:27 quad wouldn't crack. Should have caulked the sill. Nice work though. I also recommend folding the header over the rails. 13:09 Making your piece slightly longer than needed and the brake buddy rolling on either end doesn't matter. 4:10 Again though nice work.

He's very cute too!

Looks good ,what If i wanted to install storm door in the future. ?

Whats the tiny thin strip on the ends all of the frame need to buy some ..

I wrap a door like that so the aluminum follows all the Bends of the door including that half-inch befor the door jam and a 3/8inch tucked into the wheather strip & no sylicone on bottom

Looks clean. Able to mount a storm door on that? Is that wise? I have a door that has a storm door mounted to the brick mold, I want to wrap it on tin, then mount the door over it so it looks cleaner.

please what is the name of this machine? where do I find

Been capping doors and windows for 20 yrs never used the brake buddy. We just use the brake to bend everything. Good to see how it works though. Thanks for the How to video!

Always hated the brake buddy , prefer to bend my own 908 casing and bend the J channel right into it.

Nice job but I usually fold my tops over on the sides Also certain jobs I will Form my J channel into the Window or door capSo the aluminum accepts my SidingI've been in the business since 1984 love your videos though love your enthusiasm I actually for the last few years have been out of the business only doing some jobs on the side

Welcome to work on the ground construction

My dad would always tell us to quit whining if we were cold while working. He’d say the heats in the tools son work faster lol. Them boys don’t need new jackets they just gotta work harder 😂

So when ( not if )it comes time to replace the door weather striping and you nailed right through it . How much are you going to charge to fix that problem. Maybe put Under sill trim on first or a hem piece and nail back past the weatherstripping and push trim in to that. The panter will thank you. They take them out to paint doors so paint won't stick to striping so doors can be shut. Just talk to them. I'm very surprised no one has not called you out on it. But hay what do I know I'm just one guys opinion.

Pretty good look for a wrap. Hate to see molding get wrapped instead of repaired and painted though. (On roof edges)

That's a nice tool to have!

The metal wrapping guy in me is cringing sorry. But we fold inside corners so no caulk needed and make a bend between the weather stripping

Nice!

You did good but I would’ve bent the tab tab without caulking it And I would’ve bent around the doors weatherstrip on the inside but you did good bro

Great video bro. I would love to work for you but im all the way in Chicago 😔

It's nice to hear some banter. Shit is so damn soft these days. We used literally fight. Lol

Also maybe fold the top like j channel

Howmuch does that brake cost ?

That sill plate should be reinforced with a 2x4 also when your bending metal always Theron side out duh everyone knows that. Also if when you mark the sides you go up an inch and back an inch cut the square out then cut to were you wanted to cut it off fold the one piece forward and the other down and it will make it look and function so much better

U can fold the side pieces at a 90 on the inside before u put the top on and u wont have the gaps or at least not as bad

Should only painted it lol.. nice work thou

Why aren’t you posting videos anymore man

Could have given it 1/2 in bend behind the weather strip and tada no nails needed

Looks clean af dude. Only thing i do different is throw a 1/2" bend on the end and tuck it between the wood and weather seal. Aluminum can get a little wavey otherwise on a 7' bend

Maybe a 1/2in hem on doo side to not see cut

He must own stock in DAP. 🤣 won't be able to hang a storm door on that. Try to put returns on everything keeps the water out. Try a hem up against the weather seal.

How much would someone charge me to do this?

Come to Michigan… I have a house for you to do…

Should put a 1/2" bend behind weather strip and caulk the bottom