Why do I see so many videos where people put thin set in the seams first then they tape and thin set again over it and feather it out? The bag of thin set says on it not to fill joints. Confusing.
I have some questions and would like your input: I have a shower enclosure around an old cast iron tub that needs to be replaced. The wallset I want to use is a fiberglass glue-up type that specifies it needs hardieboard or cementboard underneath. I want to use the hydrodefense hardieboards but they will be almost $30/sheet with tax so I don't want to have to use too many panels. I believe the surround goes up about 58" from top of the tub (which does not have a flange). I've heard I need a 1/4" gap from the bottom of the panel to top of tub edge and I plan to have the uncut edges toward the tub. One edge of the tub sits on a flat wall that continues straight with printed wood panels from the 70s. The other side has an outside corner- again with printed wood panels. There are rough wood strips as trim on the outer edge that I plan to either replace or sand & paint, but I will have an edge trim for the hardieboard to butt up against (the existing wood panels are about 1/8" thick). My questions: 1. Should I have the factory edge on the outer edges of the tub up against the trim and have the inside corners be cut, or factory edges on inside corners? Or does it even matter? 2. Do I need to leave an expansion gap at inside corners and/or at seams? 3. Should I use the hardieboard all the way up to the ceiling (it's about 9') or should I terminate at or slightly above the height of the wallset? I was thinking of having a small ledge at the top- at least on the sides without the showerhead. 4. Do you have any other ideas or suggestions?
Sorry for the delay, I haven't been online the last cuple of days. 1) It shouldn't matter as long as the edge is straight and plumb. 2) I don't think you need an expansion joint, although it won't hurt anything if you did have a 1/8 inch gap. 3) I would terminate the hardie board at the same height. 4) Is the hydrodefense hardie board different than the regular hardie? If it isn't, I would just use the standard. the fiberglass surround is waterproof. I hope this helped.
My new fireplace came with non combustible board which I installed around the unit. However, the rest of the chase front is drywall. How do you seal the seems between the non combustible board and drywall? Drywall tape and compound or seal it with thinset when tiling? Or a tape like this? Thank you
Thanks - completely covers the topic. Exactly what I needed. Two question: you don't cover the screws with thin set like you would with regular drywall - why is that? And no sanding after it drys?
No need to cover the screws, the screws will be covered when you put the tilr on, and no need to sand either, you should only be applying a small amount of thin set.
It is different than drywall tape. It is an alkali resistant tape. It is kind of like a mesh. Are youasking about concrete board or wonderboard? There is a difference.
I've read the installer should use the same mortar to cover seams that is used when installing the tile. It's not always the same mortar used under the hardiboard that's used under the tile. That being said, what's you're opinion on the issue?
@@steveyoung9925 I got to thinking today, you could put some tape on it if you want to. Apply it just like you would any other flat area. It won't hurt anything. I never have and haven't ever had any issues.
@@doityourselfdenniscom I decided to apply silicone caulking around the perimeter and planned to caulk again after quartz panels are installed. However, it appears that in some areas to silicone will not harden. Perhaps it chemically interacts with the hardibacker causing it to fail to harden. I removed as much as I could. Have you ever heard of this issue?
Thank you! The manufacturer kept saying the tape had to be embedded in modified thinset but I was wondering if it was needed with self-adhesive tape. Do you have any suggestions for modified thinset to use? Is there a pre-mixed type that can work that isn't in something too heavy? I heard the price only costing $3 or $4 and then checked how long ago this was posted. LOL. More like $9 to $12 now (depending on the store & the taxes). Still cheaper than having to put down mud first, do the tape, and then thinset over. Can the tape be used on outside corners? Like on that niche in the shower? If not, how do you seal the outside edges up? Can something like Flex Seal be used over the thinset afterward? Or would that interfere with adhesion of loctite building adhesive (I want to glue up fiberglass wall panels)?
No, you should not be nailing concrete or hardie board to the curb. Nails in the curb is a no no. The curb should be built up with a concrete mortar. I have a video on how to build a concrete mortar shower pan. I haven't uploaded it to youtube yet. If you would like I can send it to you.
