I'm installing hardwood in the hallway and entry area of a mid-50's home. The existing hardwood is laid parallel to the joists in 3 rooms and the living room. Should I just run perpendicular and have it swich directions when you enter a room? Or should I match what's down and try and feather the room transitions and the 4 existing rooms? Thanks!
Does anyone know where I can find a video that helps me tie a drain pipe for the washer into the sewer pipe in the basement? The washer is in an unfinished basement.
I have got a video of installing a drain line in a regular wall that should work. If the drain line is already there to tie into, it shouldn't be much different.
wow, I was looking for videos on how to cut this stuff because I'm about to cut 4in pieces. THANKS for including how to cut smaller pieces in this video.
That sounds like something that would have to be custom made. I am sure there is a way, but that is something I would have to be there and figure out. Sorry
Do you check room for Square with the 3 4 5 triangle method? We are confused about just popping the chalk line without know how or why to pop that line… thanks in advance!
You can check a room for square using the 3 4 5 method or any other multiplications of it (6 8 10). It has been a while since I made this video but I think you are asking about chalking a line to see how straight the house is in length. By chalking the line and measuring at each end you should be able to see if the house is the same width at each end. I hope this helped.
Great video. A few things I would do different is to use Aquabar underlayment and facenail with serrated flooring cleats and a 90 degree shoe attachment on the floor nailer. The finish nails have a smooth shank and do not hold as well. Stainless steel cleats are better for near the front door.
It depends on several things, how big, what is the framing like and so on. It would be hard to say without looking at it. Probably not replacement windows, but maybe a regular window.
I don't know that there is a height requirement other than you need to have the 18 to 24 inch drop for the trap. I like them high enough that the box is at or above the height of the washer.@@andranika6203
It's too long because you cut it too long to begin with, but I would rather cut it too long and have to trim it off, than to cut it too short and waste a piece.
Awesome video! This explains everything about my mysterious bullnose corners, which I had never even seen before I bought this house. Baseboard is the solution for aesthetics, no doubt. Question: My power tool instructor would have a heart attack if he saw your fingers so close to the blade of that mighty mitre saw. Can the same cuts be done farther from the blade? Same question for both flat and standing cuts.
@@sandystern1618 the more common shapes are in Home Depot and Lowes. Or you go to a specialty moulding store. They are a few bucks each, made of wood, and well worth the expense. You need to buy a style that matches your baseboard. A useful tip is to use super glue with accelerator such as Starbond to blue the corner together, rather than wood glue which takes a while to cure.
Great work! What do you do to clean up the lines in the baseboard made by the corner piece? Obviously after gluing you sand a paint? Do you calk the corner piece to make it look as one?
Most of the newer pipe doesn't require cleaner. It has been a while since I used some but it seems the pipe had a distinguishing mark a yellow line and says flowgaurd on it that doesn't require cleaner. I hope his helped.
Found your channel and this video. I'm searching for information and videos to know if it's possible as part of a renovation to round square wall corners on an existing build. Idea is to put more of a Southwest or Mexico-ish feel with well-rounded wall beads and curved doorways. Sort of like, cut away the existing square corner to the studs and fashion a wide bullnose edge for a well-rounded appearance. But I don't know what supports the contour I'm trying to build with the wide paper tape. Would you build up a mud contour and coverage with a wide paper tape? Thoughts? Maybe a content idea for a future video??
I don't know where you live. I live in Kentucky and I call drywall supply houses to get my rounded corners. They are called bullnose corners. You should be able to remove the existing corner and maybe go back with the bullnose. If you can't get the corner off without destroying it, cut back to the next stud and put a fresh piece for drywall in. You can glue the bullnose on, but I always nail mine on with no glue. Also, they make a piece of trim to go with the bullnose that you can put at the bottom so that the first like 6 inches is square making it easier to put you base trim on. I hope this helps.
I would of ran a straight edge against the wall to mark the moulding, than cut to a perfect size. Than apply CA glue to both joint, than nail that baby in.
I enjoyed your video. I've made untold thousands of 3 piece bullnose base corners over the last three decades as a trim carpenter, ever since bullnose drywall corners became common. I NEVER do the corners this way by adding the shorty as a last piece. I set, mark where the miter needs to be-by eyeballing the gap, cut the miter, cut and install the first long piece. Cut a 22.5 on the shorty and set it in place, and mark the other 22.5 where it will intersect the next long piece. Glue and pin the shorty. Then measure to the long point on the little piece. Mark and cut at 25 degrees, NOT 22.5, so the outside is closed. Also I regularly use my hammer to persuade pieces into place. And use a small 18 gauge OMER nailer. Plus glue the heck out of the entire corner before pinning it with TiteBond 3. This is way easier to watch then me explain, but I can fly on these corners and very rarely have the short piece to recut, because it was marked in place, not measured. Doing these all the time house after house after house, year in year out, for decades, you get really good at it. I used to make a 45 degree jig, set it in the corner, and mark a fine wittness line on the bullnose corner where the miter needs to be, but you get to the point where it is easy to 'read the gap/miter' by eye. You just KNOW where the joint will be by eye after doing a lot of them. Anyway I really enjoyed your video. Very nice joint.Thanks.
just used this last night! big help. union carpenter for 20 yrs, do my own thing now. women wanted round corner. she got kids. Huge Help. i would have got it, but would’ve took little time!! yea 1/4 “ in from where it starts , 9/16 piece , nice job !!!Thank you!!
