DENSAYO , and they call it 'tech university'. I changed the tone control knobs from white ones to black ones the other day. Ruined my tone completely. It now sounds much too dark !
Actually many people try to insert the neck laterally instead of top down, potentially causing damage. Knowing about screw wax and where to sand/not to sand helps too. Funny joke though. :)
The most important step, which Fender completely left out, is to drill out the holes in the body with an 11/64 drill bit (drill them out with the body facing down as to not chip the finish) so that the screws pass through the body and only thread into the neck. Otherwise the screws will bind and there will be a small gap between the neck and neck pocket of the body, impacting resonance, sustain, and the relief. Small gaps on the sides of the pocket and neck are OK, but gaps between the pocket bed and neck are bad.
I'm currently working on a parts guitar and the screw holes in the neck pocket are really small. Like pilot holes rather than clearance holes. Also my neck doesn't have holes yet. What's the best way to proceed? Should I widen the holes in the body first or should I clamp the neck and the guitar up and attempt to drill through from the body and into the neck? My worry with widening the holes is that the drill is going to wander around.
@@garethwynn01 Drill out the body holes first. Don't use too big of a drill bit at first...start small and work your way up to the 11/64 size (it will take several passes with several sizes of bits). The bits will follow the pre-existing holes, so hold the drill firm and straight but let it "decide" where to go, so to speak. Then drill holes in the neck, making sure they line up with the body. Start with pilot holes and don't drill too far into the neck. Try and find out exactly how far into the neck they need to go and then tape off the drill bit(s) so you don't go too far. I forget what the final neck hole size should be, but I'm sure it's on the internet somewhere. Good luck, hope that helps.
@@Nightbreed82 thanks, I really appreciate that. I think I'll try practicing widening holes on some scrap wood first before trying it on the real thing.
@@Nightbreed82 which direction should I drill? From in the neck pocket or the back of the guitar? I'll clamp some wood to it to stop tear out but wondering if there's one way that's better than the other. The existing holes seemed to have been drilled from the neck pocket side as there is a tiny bit of tear out on the back, although that will be convered by the metal plate anyway.
Great video. Thanks for posting it. As a Luthier I would suggest you advise people to put a protective cover or masking tape over the guitar body, especially around the area being worked on. Sometimes the screwdriver will slip off the screw head and if you are not careful you can seriously damage the finish on the guitar. I have guitar shaped thick plastic sheets which I tape over the edges of the body. It has same me a lot of scratches which are difficult to repair.
Answer: no, not terribly useful information here. I expect all sorts of incompatibilities and mismeasurements when i try to put on a new Telecaster neck. You need a full set of woodworking tools and skills, none of which are evident in this lamo video.
Wow, unbelievable, So I guess we are suppose to believe that all fender parts are so perfectly machined the Neck/Pocket angle is perfect everytime and there is no need to even check it and of course the strings are naturally just going to like up perfectly as well. If I saw a guy do this in my shop it would be his last day. Cause you can bet your ass I didn't teach him that way
The four screws holes aligned properly with the screws will solve your alignment issue. Just make sure you ease them into the original screw holes at a 90 degree angle.
Fender's Micro-Tilt System was trouble waiting to happen. Most people have a hard enough time getting the relief correctly set. Adjusting the Neck Tilt will cause heads to explode. I have a guitar that had that same system, nothing but trouble. Yanked it out, very carefully made thin wood shims for the neck pocket, correct angle, better mechanical connectivity, killer tone. Takes a little bit more time but results are worth it.
Just got an Allparts Fender replacement neck with no holes. So thanks. Not my first rodeo, So I know what to do but was hoping for real tips from experienced professionals.
Everyone is extremely displeased with this video. Anyone of us that chose to type "replace guitar neck" into youtube, are most likely handy individuals. This video is a troll, I swear.
Left out the part where you, "cut to size, hammer to fit, paint to hide the mistakes". I agree with Wilson, Flemming really seemed to enjoyed the part about lubrication.
Better off paring the Allparts Jaguar replacement neck with a Player Mustang or Duo Sonic body from Mexico. Just put mine together- right and tight, just took a little sanding. And the 24" scale measurements worked out PERFECT. Now I must choose pickups or slop what I got in it. Finish the neck. Tuners. Minor fretwork. Jeez. Before elections likely.
Neck tilt is another video. However, on higher end Fenders, they have an adjustment screw for neck tilt. loosen the screws to adjust neck tilt. On the lower end stuff, if needed you'll have to use very thin wood or ... plastic or cardboard and get the right tilt by trial and error. Shimming the base of the neck tilts the neck back, shimming at the top of the neck pocket, towards the headstock end tilts it forward.
by the way, it's not all that difficult to install a neck tilt adjustment screw in most any guitar of this style, but if you don't have forstner bits, and have a bit of skill, you should probably have a tech do it for you.
Good info here I was not sure if the neck was screwed into a metal sheath or if went right in the wood. Can't take those screws off too many times or the woods screw hole's gonna start breaking down a little.
This is a great video to watch right after you watch the fender bass guitar truss rod adjustment video. What’s really funny is that it’s the same Fender guitar tech.
General question to everyone- how long should the screws be? I have a new tele body and a tele neck..but the body seems so thick that the screws will only go maybe a quarter inch into the neck. It doesn't seem that far to be a really stable hold. Should I nab longer screws, or is that generally as far as they 'should' go into the neck?
Real Fender necks are predrilled. Not so with other brands. In that case, yes, you have to predrill, and very carefully. Use a bit just slightly smaller than the screw area on the screws you're using, and use masking tape on your drill bit, or if you have a regular stop collar, use that, so you don't drill too deep. I like to start the holes by going through the body, with the neck in place, then finish drilling with the neck removed. This assures proper alignment of the holes. Make sure you keep the drill perpendicular to the body and neck. Observe carefully, make sure the body and neck are flat to the table. If you use the wrong bit, and the screws won' t hold, some matchsticks or tooth picks and a little wood glue in the hole will fix that problem.
I’ve seen some guitars that have 4 stainless threaded inserts in the holes of the neck instead of screwing directly into the wood. Any thoughts on this technique?
So it looked to me like the screw holes in the body were smaller than the screws. I have always understood that the holes through the body should be clearance holes and only the holes in the neck should be pilot holes.
Is it normal to have a latteral gap on a high grade luthier guitar ? I thought it should fit the socket perfectly...for aesthetic and sound too !!! Thanks for answering..regards
I think a little gap is Ok, especially if you live in a climate that is susceptible to changes in humidity (wood expansion/shrinkage). You def don’t want a huge gap.
I am not for sure, I think there should be specs with the neck on the size which you can check with the pocket of yours. However, if you have a standard mim tele then any standard mim necks will fit too. I think it goes by where its made but i do not know for sure.
I’m going from pau ferro to maple on my Player Plus Strat. Hoping there is no issues with the installation. Have nut filers already. Just not sure if the frets would need to be leveled. Any experience out there with the frets needing to be worked on after? Praying that the neck fits with no issues since I’m buying a replacement player plus neck going to a player plus body.
Stew-Mac has Fender -approved replacement necks. Choice of either constant or compound radius like Warmoth necks. Quality is decent, you may need to slightly dress the fret ends but nothing major. Drops right in, good fit, plays fine. For a MIJ Strat, no reason to spend too much.
Little help needed: the neck of my Fender Vintera got a crack, so I bought a new (Vintera) neck. I tried to attach it, but it seems that there's a tiny gap below (at the two lowest screws), so that the neck is not straight. It's really small but it forms a problem. The screws seem tight enough and the pocked has no paint (last neck fitted perfectly and had no gap) so that can't be the problem. Any suggestions? (I don't want any shim to fix the problem, I want it straight in the usual way just like before.)
use the metal plate as a guide for the holes. mark them out, make sure everything is straight and aligned. measure the depth - then mark it on the screws so you don't screw through the fretboard/neck of the guitar.
The hard part is when you drill the holes. I currently postponed my try of doing it until I get someone to actually help me do it because I'm afraid I drill too deep and crack the neck. I've chipped a chunk of the body (the walls of the pocket)
I have a question about this, I am going to install a guitar neck but there are no holes predrilled on the neck. do I still have to do this or can I just screw the screws into the neck without the holes? I have never done this before.
Just follow carefully this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zOLnqmCcaCc.html and everything will be crystal clear. In particular, pay attention to the perfect neck-body strings alignment: it is absolutely crucial, so the trick of using the two external guitar strings as a reference - like this guy does - is pure gold. :)
What can you adjust in the delicate pocket if the neck is skewed laterally? MIM Texas Roadhouse Deluxe 2016. The low E is almost right up to the edge of the neck, wide gap high E to edge of neck. Inlay markers do not line up between G and D. Loosening the neck screws, not a lot of movement to square the neck, but reverts to old skew when screws tightened back up . . . bought new from previous owner . . . all plastic and tags still on.
If the neck *can* be aligned when loose, but reverts to being skewed when tightened up, then the pocket is likely fine but the holes don't align. You would need to fill the neck holes, clamp the neck on (in alignment) then redrill the neck holes using the existing body holes as a guide. Pretty finnicky work though; probably best to trust (pay) a luthier to do it if you've not done this kind of thing before.
Just bought a Mexican strat off eBay and the high e string is too close to the edge of the neck and my neck pocket has no wiggle room for adjustment. Do I need to sand down the sides to create more room to adjust the neck? It’s a shame the guitar came like this.
,i change another nack to the guitar but it was a diferent neck ,on diferent guitar body ,and he geve me a wrong note for the octaves...What i have to do ...Thanks
What if my fender strat neck ain't a tight fit, it just drops in and feels in the neck pocket prior installing four screws. My Fender is 1993 mexi that neeeded a complete fret job also rewired (shielded) and setup. I'm now putting it back together and noticed how the felt loose going back in there's a slight gap. Is this normal for it be this way.
Try raising the action or adjust the truss rod. Not sure how taking a neck on and off and putting ridiculously thick strings on is gonna help unless you're taking a shim out of the neck pocket.
Adjust the action. Preferably from the bridge saddles first. (There are plenty tutorials on RU-vid, also explaining the ideal measurements). Avoid messing with the truss rod all by yourself unless you know what you're doing.
? Hi Fender. Why are you Not selling Stratocaster roasted maple Necks with a 7.25 Radius and the original vintage frets etc? Well wishings and all the best furthermore.
Hi, I`m in the process of replacing an old Squire Strat 21 fret, 9.5" radius {custom} with a new Fender 22, fret 12" radius. Do you think off the top of your head that any body wood will have to be removed or just a straight swap. On the original squire neck there is 1/2" clearance from the end of the neck to the neck pick up. Any help or advise would be appreciated, thanks.
Hi! I have a fender stratocaster with floyd rose system, i wanna change the neck which is a floyd rose neck rosewood to a non floyd rose neck maple, is there something that i have to be concerned ??
Hello, the neck of the fender classic player 50s, fit well on a classic player 60s body? I have this body and want to buy and then install this neck, because has a maple fretboard,,,thanks
Also, Gibson guitars have a different scale length (the distance from the nut to the bridge) than Fenders. Even if you managed to somehow carve the heel of a Gibson neck to fit the Fender neck pocket, the bridge would not be in the right location (it turns out to be a 3/4" difference). Mind you, if you found a way to make that work it would be awesome, because when you inevitably drop the guitar and break the Gibson headstock off, replacing the neck would be a snap!
Should be fine. FYI though, the MIM necks generally only have 21 frets, not 22. That makes a difference to some people, like (a) if you meedlymeedlymeedly a lot, or (b) you really like the look of the fretboard overhanging the body.pickguard (with a 21 fret neck the 'bottom' of the fretboard is exactly at the bottom of the neck, where it meets the neck cutout on the body). Hope that makes sense.
Ok I need a new neck for my japan Strat now there's 2 company's I'm looking at to purchase they are fender licensed now I love my original neck will there be a big problem with fitting the new neck because one day I might want to put my old one back on it has a little crack no biggie
simple... take it to a good repairman who is experienced. I know Lindy Fralin's pal in Richmond who is a top pro at it. Treat your guy like he is a skilled pro and ask him to explain what he does... so he knows you give a damn about how he does it. He will be more inclined to help you out... see ?
I was pretty disappointed ordering telecaster neck and body that were suggested together by your site to only find out they are unplayable together, a vintage 60s body with a 50s neck made in Mexico, I was pretty sure I heard you guys everything was built to fit and play.
what does it mean when your guitar makes a squeak sound where the neck meets up to the body, when you put a little force on the neck or try to wiggle it. I tried to tighten the screws, which helped but still there? its a mexican fender stratocaster
it's a fairly nice quality guitar, so ask a qualified and experienced repair guy to hear it. He will probably fix it for free if you show him respect as a skilled technician. Ask for help on your problem that you are not 'too sure about' and then stay quiet. Once you find a skilled repair guy, do not piss him off.
hi, I've got an American made body and a American made neck all stratocaster. i want to install a modern (not 70s 3 bolt) micro tilt into the body with 4 bolt neck screws but i don't know where to buy the parts to install. i can't even se any one eBay. do you know where i can buy any. buying at a place that ships is maybe better than going to a shop because i live in Australia, thank you.
