great advice! I have taken to using Snap-Toggles instead of the old-school ones as the screws can be taken out and re-installed without losing the toggle/nut.
Solid advice, for sure! Your excellent videos confirm a lot of what I do, and there are some real gems in them where I learn a new approach from time to time (and at 66 YO, I’ve been at it for a while). Bravo!!!
Funny I didn’t realize you were around for the pyramids with the level like that lol 😂. It is accurate and does the trick I’ve made do in a pinch with the speed square and chaulk line trick 👍
Thank you so much for jabbing the drywall with your screwdriver. We've all done that too many times and now I don't feel like such a dweeb. I feed on your pain. 😀
If you don’t have a level, measure off the floor and ceiling. Also eye it with something level inside the bathroom. Sometimes unlevel items are not as noticeable if they are in harmony with the rest of the room and pleasing to the eye.
I always ask my clients in a house where everything is out of level if they want time to install level or match the house. If no one is around to ask everything is installed plumb and level.
Toilet Paper holder: If it's a guest bathroom (or public space), you want it VISIBLE. Why? Because it's better to know if it's empty BEFORE you sit down and start your business. Whether or not you do that for your own bathroom is up to you...
I have a better way for towel bars, if you don’t mind. I put painters tape on my level. Then mark my towel bar brackets or holes. Then I put the level up to the wall. Transfer marks. Done. Lol 😂 🤣😂🤷🏽♂️👑💯 I suck at algebra. There is no way I would be doing all of that cardboard and hypotenuse and angles. Bro for sure I think my way is the fastest and accurate too. Let me know your thoughts lol 😂.
Not a fan of the toilet roll holder on the cabinet. I find it too far back and a touch too low. First thing I did when I discovered the builder had done that in my new house was relocate it. Totally agree about the useless wall plugs that come with the fittings though.
At 2:20 wouldn't it be great to make it countersunken into the lower vanity cabinet to begin with by design ? Rolltop type slide door for tp. ( only running lengthwise though) That way you could also store new backups and still use your front vanity lower left storage compartment. Alot more cuts. But you inspired my idea by saying the focal point being toilet paper and led to magazine slot above top pullout drawer. Gotta have something to read for Grandpa.
Great advice on using toggle bolts for drywall installation What size toggle bolts and wingnuts do you recommend? I heard you mention using a 3/8" drill bit for the hole, does that mean a 1/4" diameter wing nut is recommended? Typically the wing nut needs a slightly larger hole to fit into the drywall without damaging it Thanks in advance!
As a guy who maintains an apartment building, I curse the name of the people who installed towel bars DIRECTLY across from the toilet. You can imagine why..
Excellent tips. I'll be switching to toggles for my drywall installs from now on. As much as I try to mount things to studs, that's too often not an option. What color paint is that on the vanity? It's amazing.
They are not hard to remove, you lossen them until the spring part unscrews and falls out, then you buy new ones at the hardware store for about $2. Now for the blue locktite, yeah that will be fun to remove 🤣
The heights for everything look good except for the hand towel holder. That is way too high. But I do like the toilet paper holder on the cabinet. I almost did that at my last apartment, but I ended up just getting a freestanding toilet paper holder instead.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter still use them a lot tho lol. The worse is when I drill a 1/16” bit into to check for no stud, then when I drill the 3/8” or whatever for the toggle I hit the edge of a stud. Now I have a huge hole, can’t get the toggle in, and the 5 minute job might be bit longer lol, especially when the customer has a an artsy fartsy bar with a super small base that won’t hide the hole if I offset it to hit the stud.
@@kds471 that is the definition of hell right there my friend! Almost every-time I just assume I can throw a toggle in without checking for studs it bites me! One day I’ll learn:)
Great tips as always bud!!! Loved it, do you recommand buying a lazer level? i would love to own one but they are so expensive. Also have a great weekend bud!!!👌👌🍻🍻
Hi. I have twist in dry wall anchors (like the ones on your toilet paper holder) that have pulled out on my towel rack. How would you repair that? I thought about putting the toggle bolts through the holes but am not sure if there would be adequate support. I appreciate your videos because here in Florida it is difficult to get anyone to come do small jobs.
The metal drywall anchors are far superior to the plastic ones and they bite into the drywall tight. Toggles are awkward and require drilling a hole in the wall
New sub here! This isn't related but thought I'd ask... our house has textured drywall and it drives me nuts. Nothing sticks to it. Is there a fix for them or am I bound to hanging only on studs?
There’s something call a drywall laminating screw, it’s thicker with coarser threads than a regular drywall screw. That would work nicely for pictures.
It seems like it is coming from the top of the track where the mobile window meets the fixed part (the window slides horizontally)… hopefully that makes sense
Ive tried re-caulking the whole window (thanks for the video you made on caulking btw, that was a game changer), but the room is still super cold and it whistles when its very windy
Skipping the caulking on the top of the trim is, in my opinion, a sign of low integrity. Doing the right thing when no one is looking is a sign of integrity.
