I have honda 2007 si, replace CMC & slave. For a week I'm trying to bleed this system.I listen to other RU-vidrs from gavity draining , vacuum pump & pedal pumping to no prevail. These guys at Perfectionclutch got it right, within 10 mins I had it done. Clutch system working. Hats Off gentlemen, thank you
This vid rocks. If you can't bleed your MC or SC no matter how hard you try and the clutch pedal still goes to the floor...bleeding the Slave by blocking it in a C-clamp is the solution! This saved me from super frustration! Thank you!
1998 Isuzu Amigo: Bleeding the way stated in the book, it was just like you said, tiny burps. After 30 minutes and probably 300 pumps of the clutch, still no pressure. Followed your directions, clamped it, and got immediate pressure. Unclamped it, bolted it back and, and it bleed correctly. Took maybe 10 minutes to complete. YOU SAVED THE DAY!
Thanks for taking the time to demonstrate this technique. I was having a really difficult time getting the air out of a new system. This did the trick!
Have been trying to get my truck back on the road for awhile now. Have tried a number of ways with minimal results at best. This was the last effort before taking the transmission out and replacing the slave. Its a 94 F150 with 5.8. Four wheel drive. Five speed. Thank you. This was a life saver. Well at least alot of time and busted knuckles anyway. Thanks again.
On my 2005 Infiniti G35 I blocked the slave cylinder by wedging a large square shaft screwdriver in between the piston shaft and the clutch lever on the transmission housing. Then I opened the slave bleed screw with a clear vinyl hose attached and had a helper slowly depress the clutch pedal and it will purge air bubbles from the clutch line.
You are completely right. Slave cylinders should be bled the same way as a brake caliper. When the caliper is mounted the pots don't extend when the pedal is depressed and all the air comes out. Thank you. Not even the factory manual says that. Now i have to go and bleed the slave cylinder the correct way.
Really worked on my Honda Civic slave cylinder replacement. After hours of trying to bleed with no progress, I watched this video & simply clamped the clutch lever all together with the slave cylinder in situ, & voila after two pedal strokes, job finished. Thanks for posting!
I'm going through the same issue with my Honda Civic 2004. I'm glad this method worked for you I'm going to give it a try. Did you end up having to use a small socket?
What an innovative & interesting idea! Just replaced my clutch master cylinder & have been cussing it for the last 20 minutes. It's too cold & dark to continue tonight but I'm gonna see if I can set up a block on mine. Thanks for the info!
Thank you for taking the time to explain in easy straight forward terms. I have worked on many vehicles, never on a clutch or related. Good examples of home engineering safely minded. Thanks again-
After you do this technique, when do you release the piston and install it on the car? Should the pedal be up or down when you release it? Is there a danger of putting too much fluid in the system?
Just like brakes. Very informative, thank you. Now I wont use a 40HP gas dirt tamper jammed in my drivers seat to pump the clutch pedal while I frantically open and close the slave cylinder bleed screw. JK LOL. Stay gold.
The factory service manual for my honda car emphasizes the use of a wooden block to block the slave cylinder from moving out while to pump the pedal so all the air can be completely bled from the system .
I miss the old days. Put a foot long piece of hose on the bleeder straight up and pump the clutch pedal. Some air went up and some air went out the hose but it was quick and easy. I had a leaky slave cylinder bought a new one and was done in 15 minutes. Last manual transmission I owned but it was easy. B2000 not to complicated.
this ROCKS! I put a honda engine in my fiat x19 and have a hydraulic to cable converter (allows my hydraulic system to puch the lever on the trans) but it puts the bleed nipple at the bottom making it almost impossible to bleed. this method alloes me to take the slave off, bleed it, then put it back in!
Why would Ford Focus put the "slave cylinder" inside the clutch if the "slave cylinder" was going to break a seal sooner than any other part of my clutch hydraulic system?
Great.I had a hard time today trying to bleed the clucth in my 1991 mazda pick up.I'll mess with it tomorrow again, this time with the advise that I just saw here.thank you
What if you open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, push the pedal to the floor, and close it up the release? It seems to work the same way as this.
Thank you so much my slave cylinder was messed up so I replace it and I couldn't get to bleed it but with the c clamp dude it worked right away u are a life saver thank you so much
perfectionclutch Thankyou for replying. The slave looks very similar to the first Civic cylinder in your demonstration. I've been weeks on this and changed both cylinders. This looks much better than my last resort.... pushing upwards with a syringe.
Great video! I was wondering after you’ve compressed the slave cylinder to bleed it out, how do you put it back in the transmission cam? Still compressed or you let it extend it to put it back?
Over in the UK here, this is proper helpful tech advice. I'm about to take a chance on a 2007 Fiat Punto for £100, guy can't bleed a new clutch install and I was sure I could figure out the issues. These Fiats are notoriously hard for both being hard to bleed, to maintain pressure after bleeding without losing the pedal in a short while and needing a re-bleed. I suspect the advice I just got here and some creativity may well massively. I will ask, it has what is called a HYD valve fitted in the middle. I'm taking a guess this is supposed to control flow, maybe one way etc, big round thing that I suspect may be an air trap. Any advice on these or if you know of anything similar in the form of an inline device, halfway along the length of the line. Appears to be 2 bleed points, one on the master and one on the slave cylinder. I'll be replacing all O-Rings on the complete line as a matter of caution, seeing as they're pennies and could be 12 years old now. I'll be flushing the system with a quality fluid. Many thanks, Paul
I tried this method yesterday and I am not having any luck at all with this thing.... Yesterday I Filled the Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir, Blocked the Slave Cylinder and then opened the Bleed screw on the Slave.... I thought fluid should just drain thru at that point....but No, I hooked up a Vacuum pump and sucked fluid thru it....but the Reservoir level didn't move. I messed with all kinds of different ideas...I was getting lots of air bubbles....not sure if the rubber hose was leaking or what but I still had no luck. Yes, I did loosen the Master Cylinder Plunger rod hoping that would help...NO good. Next is a pack of Matches ! I have 1993 Toyota T100 3.0 V6 5 speed 4x4 with the same problem as Jeff who Commented below. I replaced the Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder twice...then I decided to Replace the Clutch, Pressure Plate throw out bearing with a Stage 2 system. Now I still have the same damned problem. No clutch pedal pressure at all ! I also had to replace the Clutch Pedal assembly under the dash....as it was cracked in 3 or 4 places....then I noticed the Firewall behind the Clutch Master Cylinder was Cracked too.( I cut out a piece of 3/16 steel and re-inforced that too)... Amazing....I had just recently bought this truck and it ran OK and looked great... I replaced all of the Front end stuff too while I was in there... All I am getting is about 1/2 inch movement on the Clutch Arm on the Transmission. Now all I want is to get it to move ! GREAT VIDEO...LIKED/SUBSCRIBED !
@@perfectionclutch Gary...Thanks a Bunch Brother...my son is coming down to help me tomorrow or Wednesday....I will do everything you suggested ! I am just about out of other options....I did order 25 feet of 3/16 brake line on Ebay... and bought bending tools at Harbor Freight yesterday just incase I don't get any positive results bleeding ! I'll let you know how it goes ! Thanks agin !
Hello. I have replaced the master and slave in my 89 4Runner. When I did the block bleed I put a socket into the system to keep the plunger in the slave pinned back. I think I ran too deep of a socket. So I set the volume of brake fluid in the system too low. Is there a way to increase the volume of fluid without re-block bleeding?
+perfectionclutch Thanks for your response, Gary. The slave is on the passenger side of the vehicle so it has 60" of flexible hydraulic line feeding it. After the I had installed everything I took the slave back off the truck and kept the master cylinder installed. I dropped the slave to the ground on the drivers side and made sure I had a consistent rise to the hose. I then cycled the slave cylinder and did get a lot of air out of it as well as a lot of turbulence in the fluid. The clevis was loose too. I started to get half a pedal of pressure then it went soft. Looks like I blew the seal in the master cylinder, so it's off to get another one this afternoon. Seems like I over worked it, but not really sure how...
+perfectionclutch Yes, this is proper config hosing. Designed specifically for 4runner clutches. I will try again. This weekend. I have never had such a problem bleeding a clutch or brake system...
I replace transmission gear fluid 75 / 90 as require in my miata 1992, then I pulled the stick shift and add gear fluid and shift dont work. only work when the car is not running, after I start it and run the shift dont work. what is the problem does it need to be bleed or clutch problem please help
You're talking about bench bleeding. Take the bleeder out and screw in bleeder hose. it's like bleeding out a master cylinder. Before you go to all the work and bleeding out your clutch system make sure that your pedal is working properly. Sometimes your neutral switch don't work. Because a little piece of junk plastic that they put in for a bushing with a spring just doesn't hold up it pushes out on both sides. An S10 junker clutch pedal assembly. No one really knows how to get them apart properly.
I think this might be the best way to do mine... Been trying the buck and hold and getting nothing afterwards...didn't help that there was a hole in the line and it was letting all the fluid out...
my wife was on her way to work this morning in her 08 Subaru Impreza 2.5 and after driving 4 miles into town, she started to turn into sheetz and the clutch pedal went to the floor. A couple guys at sheetz tried helping her...they 1st tried adding fluid and having her pump the clutch, when they did this the fluid ran out (onto the ground ) as fast as they put it in! so I'm thinking hole in the line between master and slave? (I wasn't there to see for myself ) or could it be a bad slave? 1st Subaru we've ever owned....we have so much snow right now it's hard to find anything. your opinion would be appreciated! thanks!
@@perfectionclutch ****Thank You Very Much!!! I've got a 98 Isuzu Rodeo and I CAN NOT >>>NO MATTER WHAT I >>Or My Husband **whom is my teacher, & really good with all of this stuff, Or both of us together TRY!!!
@@jenibyrns145 simple answer is to buy a cheap hand operated vacuum bleed kit and just have it draw fluid through past the master cylinder through the lines and the slave cylinder until it draws all the air out and only fluid comes out then tighten bleed nipple and pump up the pedal (always making sure the hydraulic reservoir never get close to running dry)
i just replaced the master and slave cylinders. and my pedal doesnt come all the way up. at a time i was able to get into gears even reverse. but when we bled it again and opened the bleeder (traditional way) pumped a few times, now the car wont go into gears again. do you think there is still some air?
Can anyone explain to me, how this is not the same as: - installing your slave cylinder on the gearbox - opening the bleed screw -lightly pres the clutch pedal to the floor - close the bleed screw before letting go of pedal This makes the same flow as you use the clutch-pressure plate, as your clamp Or am I wrong?
So I was trying to purge my clutch cylinder and I guess I don't know what I was doing because I removes the plug where you bledd it and now my clutch paddle is all the way down and now I don't know what to Do? Can you help? Thank you..
I have a 2010 Mustang I would like to learn how to bleed the clutch system it's integrated with the master cylinder.. it's a V6 5-speed how would I bleed the clutch system
I'm trying to bleed the clutch on my Audi a6, its much like described in the video, I have tried gravity, pressure pumped through the bleeder, negative pressure through the bleeder, traditionally method, and its not working. the pedal is soft until near the floor then too stiff to even go to the floor. anybody got some input? do the symptoms point to any bad part of the system? I'm quite sure doing this method will run the risk of cracking the slave cylinder due to the fact that its plastic. It's also nearly impossible to work this method because it's so hard to get to the slave cylinder which is on top of the transmission. also I tried running a line from the bleeder screw into the reservoir and pumping the s*** out of the pedal, didn't work either I'm at the end of my rope here.
+perfectionclutch its a 2000 a6 2.7t 6 speed manual, I spent the day bleeding the clutch including removing the slave and clapping it which gives me full pedal, the slave however is easy to push the piston in after doing so with some hydraulic resistance and springs back out instantly. I hear a squish sound as the piston is pushed back in the last bit...
I have a 92 civic. will be changing the clutch master cylinder and slave. after I do so, I fill up the master cylinder, pull the pin and boot from the new slave and clamp it with a c-clamp. open the bleeder on the slave, push the clutch pedal down, close the bleeder, put the clutch pedal up, repeat the process till just fluid comes out. take off the c-clamp, install the boot and pin, hook up the slave to the clutch fork and I'm done??
Thanks Gary, great videos. I have a nissan with a longer route from master to slave. I cant get any decent pressure into the pedal and I suspect that there is air in the master cylinder. Will this method pump and air out of the master?
Bleeding a 95 Honda Civic Clutch system and the Slave Cylinder doesnt move at all is this the slave or Master Cylinder Faulty or is there too much air in system. was working one week ago with different engine now with new engine it will not bleed or pressurize the slave
perfectionclutch Thank ya sir for the awesome response, I do have a question regarding the outcome of working on that system. The rundown of it I suspected the adjustment to be the issue and even installed a new slave cyl but couldnt get any movement on slave so kept bleeding just got zero peddle pressure at all the range of adjustment. Other side of system on bleeder little bits of air and fluid. Changed the Master Cyl for one I had lying around and got a gravity bleed quickly along with a working slave and system. Now what im so curious about is if the Master Cyl Was Faulty , or that the rod wasnt Floating as you said?
my clutch getting hard after 15km run. i have recently changed the clutch plate and pressure plate still the problem not cleared whats the reason you think??? what should i do. please help
Im confused sorry. I block off the slave cylinder and press and release And top the reservoir. Or do I press hold open the valve like normal. Thank you for the help.
I could use some help on bleeding the new slave cylinder and new master cylinder on a Toyota MR2 Turbo. Because it’s mid-engine, it’s got a very long hydraulic line from the front to the rear of the car. Also, the bleeder screw is not on the slave. It’s located about 6” higher on the transmission - this can’t be good for getting all of the air out. My issue is not with releasing the clutch and selecting a gear, it’s actually at startup I’ve developed an alarming chatter when I start the car that goes away fairly quickly. Am I correct in assuming the slave cylinder might be at fault? The problem started immediately after I replaced the slave cylinder.
My throwout bearing is riding the pressure plate when clutch pedal is released. I have enough play on the pedal. The car was taken to the dealership twice for warranty replacement on the bearing but the car only has 63k miles. When the engine is running, I can push the slave rod in with my hand and can hear and feel the bearing not contacting the PP. It seems that the slave rod is over extended causing the bearing to ride on the PP while it spins. My question is, Can I build a clam to limit the travel of the slave rod then bleed it? After bleeding it, will that rod stay in play after removing the clamp or will it self adjust itself to the over extended position? Please advise. Thank you.
+perfectionclutch Yesterday I strapped the slave half inch shorter than its original position then I turned the bleed screw counter-clockwise releasing a very small amount of fluid then closed it. Took the strap off and drove it 80 miles. I didn't hear the squeaking/chirping sound anymore but we'll see how long this will last. I'm thinking I may have to buy a new slave but I need to measure one out first and compare it to what I have.
C 1500 bleed alone, fill unit oil tight.push rod into slave cyc.few times untill air goes back into reservoir .rod will go back and forth unless clutch padal pushed .do not use cheap fluid.5 minuets reinstall slave cyl.
Thanks much Gary. One last thing, does all manual transmission have shift linkage lever, i thought now a days in modern cars electronics are involved and there is no more shift linkage.. if u can throw me some lights that will be helpful
i have nissan maxima 2002 and i changed the master and slave cylinder .. but after a day my clutch start slipping .. i released the bleed screw and i found the system has over pressure ! and the pedal was heavy .. after relassing the pressure pedal become soft and noce and no more slipping of the clutch .. next day it did the same heavy and slipping ... every time i release the bleed i can see the slave cylinder rod go back and it actually was pushing the clutch ! i don't know if my mechanic installed it wrong before it well get air in the system and he advice to change both master and slave cylinder .... its been a week now and every day i have to do the bleeding .. or relasing ! any advice or diagnoses ?
yes its been adjusted and i loosed it to the end ... one mechanic made the postion of the pedal too high and i tried to lower it by the screw of the release sensor of cruse control ... my question is the slave actuator have adjustment .. and why when it build pressure the pedal is too heavy to push .. i well check mc pushrod again and verify its loosed all the way
hey bro I am having the same exact problem after I've done replace everything could u please tell me how u done it? do I need to unbolt the slave from the trans to put the c clamp on and then what do I do I'm not sure? pls respond bro
I have a 93 300zx and I was able to do it without removing the slave and a C clamp if you are not able to do it like that you might wannna shove something in between the slave and the fork so that the slave doesn't have room to extend
I was trying to push on the slave piston with bleeder closed, lid off and i see it pushing bubbles out and then fluid started coming out where the push rod is? its brand new, then i went and got another one and it did it again?
What's wrong with having bleed tube in a jar with fluid to stop air being sucked back in... and you open the bleed nipple and have the clutch pressed to floor... tighten the bleed nipple raise clutch pedal and repeat until fluid and no air comes out of bleed pipe ... the system should never be placed under pressure until all air is expelled out of the system! Or just get a vacuum bleed kit and forget the need for the person otherwise needed at the clutch pedal. should never push pedal to floor then open bleed nipple as that is only a requirement if squirting out a bleed nipple with no pipe or jar/bottle to collect waste hydraulic fluid bad way to do it as makes a mess and can get hydraulic fluid over bodywork paint and underbody corrosion protection and damage both.
I've been trying to bleed my toyota t100 for a week now after replacing master and slave. No bubbles but still no pedal.. If this works, I'll be forever in yall debt lol
@@dantedumont401 it was tricky to get the clamp on but got the clamp on, had my buddy hold on the pedal then I bled and a burst of bubbles came out. Adjusted the rod out a little further at the clutch pedal and boom, clutch is back!
