Yesterday changed I a brake fluid on my CBR 600RR 2015, literally after watching your video 2 times. Saved some money, and so happy knowing it's so easy. Thank you. Your videos are super helpful.
I bled the front brakes on my cbr f4i. I had a weird feeling lever so i popped the brake lever bolt on the master cylinder and i probably let out the air bubble, but inadvertently i pressed the lever and introduced air into the system. i tightened the bolt again and had to just bleed the calipers. With a 1/4 IN vinyl clear hose into gatorade bottle and a 8mm spanner.. pumped up the brakes a bit, held lever, released the bleeder... tighten bleeder rinse and repeat until i had decent lever.. I didnt see much bubbles come out the first few times, but i kept adding fluid and got a decent lever. I zip tied the lever when it was soft overnight to let the air seep out. Youd be surprised how much fluid came out. I topped the master cyl off before I left it, and it was nearly dry in the morning. But the lever was very firm. I am still yet to overnight bleed my right front caliper the same way, as my brakes are already much better, Probably 50% increase in braking force. FYI i bled my brakes before doing this a few months ago and NO bubbles came out, so that was the reason for my initial master cyl bleed by braking the bolt.. IK this is a book but maybe it will help. :)
I know this video is very old but just wanted to express my gratitude for taking the time to make such a clear and concise video! I just purchased a 2008 Cbr600rr and the front brakes had so much air in the lines the lever would literally touch the bar they were useless but using this video made them factory Tokico’s nice and snappy again! Thanks so much!!🤘
Definitely true about the brake fluid and paint not liking each other lol. My 05 600rr has the old style brake fluid reservoir, the crap kind with the plate and 2 screws instead of the cap and its practically impossible to take off with spilling it everywhere. The upper right side fairing looks like hell now from brake fluid getting on it
this is an old video, so I dont expect a response, but I just rebuilt the same exact caliper and master, per your other videos, and the rear brake refuses to bleed. When I press the brake, the fluid is being pushed back into the reservoir. I have made sure there are no blockages in the lines or bolts. any ideas on what's stopping the rear from getting pressure? I did my front brakes no problem, but these rears always are a pain, I usually have to end up taking them to a shop to get them to work.
Thanks. I have a cbr954rr and the PO put bar risers on and steel braided lines. However, the bars he put on hit the plastics, so I went with some aftermarket clip-on bars (Driven) and they fit wonderfully, but now the bolt and banjos hit the plastic on the instrument panel when you turn the bars all the way to the left. I will have to move them down and around past a bumper on the master cyl. up top. so that the lines and the banjo doesn't hit the instrument panel or the plastics behind the head light. It's a pain getting this jigsaw puzzle for the new clip-ons to work.
i have a few questions i need answered for clarification - how many times do i need to pump before using the vacuum system? can i just use the vacuum system without doing it manually? should i bleed all the fluid out before adding new fluid? and how many times do i need to add fluid until flushing is done?
you should tell us what things to grab too. i think all how-to videos should have a beginning showing/suggesting which tools and sizes will be needed to accomplish task. ** of course i wrote this comment too soon
5:50 well explain why.... it bc witht he air tight vacuum it gets pulled in and expands [imo to likely take up space to keep the fluid from sloshing around]
Thanks for this! One question - for some reason once I’ve done this process. The pistons are not engaging. Meaning the brake lever is always all the way touching the throttle. Any thoughts? Bad calliper? Bad pistons?
Awesome video John! Thank you so much. I have a 2009 CBR600RR ABS model. I’m ok to follow the same process in this video, right? I bought myself a mini vacuum which will help. Very good tip! 👌
@@itsmrmoe9 thanks a lot! I would have thought it's more complex with the ABS but great to know I can follow the exact same steps. Thank you, much appreciated!
hello sir tomorrow is my first time doing this to my 600rr 2004 i don’t have a problem doing the front brake but the rear i can’t find wear to put the break oil after bleeding it as i don’t have this small box that u have i have it only on the front any help please ?! thanks .
I swapped out my calipers and now I can't build up enough pressure manually or with a pump to bleed or get the brakes to engage. I can't start my bike right now, is that a factor?
Hello Partzilla Team! Awesome job you guys do! Priceless! But regarding this video, when bleeding the front brake, shouldn’t we start first with the calliper more distant from the master cylinder? Keep on the good work!
Partzilla Partzilla Starting with the most distant calliper will prevent undesired air to get stuck between the lines because you started with the end of the line. I use the same principle for cars. How do you proceed with bikes that have a bleed plug right before the master cylinder? But please, I’m just an enthusiast! Thanks!
every 4~5 days my 07 cbr600 front brake becomes noticeable spongy from a really strong feel after a good bleeding with air bubbles coming front the upper bleeding port near the reservoir, yes, every 4~5 days, no leaking is identified. this is a big mystery for me. anybody could give me any hint? thank you very much!
7:30 so honestly in all true and reality, is that dark enough that it actually needs to be replaced, or is that acceptable for a while till it gets darker. bc that still pretty clear, just with brownish tint.. it'd be good to see what a color is that really is about the threshhold for acceptable still and necessary to change.
Hello John, I was wondering what the top bleeder valve was on the top of the master cylinder on a 2009 CBR 600rr ABS. Is the procedure different? Great video's...immensely helpful!!
John, Applying the brake pressurizes the line. If you release the brake before you close the valve, you will likely let air in the system. You will just have to keep going with the bleeding process, it will just take a few extra pumps and bleeds. No big deal.
I have a CBR600rr and I have a problem with the front brakes which is that the front wheel if you roll it does not rotate continuously, it stops immediately, as if you press the brakes lightly
I have a Honda CBR 250 R I change brake fluid front No problem when I change Rear There come air in the system I try anything can't get the air out what I Do Best Regards
John - i have a question thats only semi related. The rear brakes on my motorcycle don't work at all. No pressure when I hit the rear brake peg. Should I start by bleeding the brakes?
I ran into this problem today. Keep going, it'll eventually make its way out. I alternated between all 3 bleed points until I started seeing fluid, then bled each point completely until firm.
Thank u very much! I loved your videos! I have an cbr600rr ra ABSfrom 2011,I would like to know if I can do the same in my bike?? Thank you so much for your videos.
I am owner of a Ducati Monster 821. Since new the bike has had issues with the rear break. It started when I tried to break and push the pedal all the way but the bike didn't stop. Then the bike was flushed and the breaks were blocked... the tire didn't move!!! I visited the dealer and they change the calipper and the break pump. It worked well for a while but now the bike does not break again. I want to flush the rear brake again but I am afraid the break gets blocked again. Are there any way to identify if some air is getting into the system or any tip to solve this issue? How can I know when the flush has been enough and avoid too much pression in the pump (I am not a mecanic and I don´t even know if my guessing is correct). Thanks.
I'm assuming it's not under warranty anymore? Confirm you aren't getting air in the lines. crush washers are good on the banjo bolts. Have them test the pump. You should have a parts warranty, if you bought those parts and they failed again, they should be replaced.
Partzilla Thanks a lot for your response. Although the calipper and the break pump was changed by warranty, the bike still has issues. Ducati sent a newsletter to the dealer asking to perform a “gravity flush /bleeding”. They have to remove the exhaust and the calipper to bleed the calipper from above... I don’t know why they simply bleed the bike as you do in the video. The bike has brembo brakes. I don’t believe they need any special technic to bleed the bike. :( Thanks Partzilla.
Hi David! We'll add it to the list of repair suggestions. You are the second person who has asked for a CBR coolant flush, so we'll likely end up getting this one recorded for you. Thanks for the feedback!
so when is it that owners are dgetting into questionable territory with preventative maintenance, being as some say "if aint broke, dont fix it and actually causing problems, opposed to really doing something good.
Thanks for uploading these videos. By far the best tutorials I've watched and has helped me heaps on my 07 cbr600rr. I wanted to ask in this video, when you bleed the 2nd front caliper, did you still need to pump the brake lever to pump fluid out if you dont have the vacuum? Thanks :-)
