How To Bleed New Sram MTB Brakes | Bleeding Edge Technology

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The latest Sram brakes with the bleeding edge port and relevant adapter are designed to make bleeding your brakes mess and hassle free. Doddy's got you covered for the specifics of this new system.
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The Sram bleeding edge port appears on some Sram brake models from 2015 onwards. Doddy recommends going about the bleed process in this order to get the best results from your brakes.
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Опубликовано:

30 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 503

@ThunderStruckMTB 6 лет назад

Whoever at GMBN green lighted Doddy and the Tech Channel, you are a genius! Doddy is far and away the best presenter for tech and how-to's. Thanks!

@SuperFunkidelic 4 года назад

@@siriosstar4789 nah. i'm not here to be coddled. they put out serious content and we learn...keep it moving.

@graeme5060 4 года назад

@@siriosstar4789 Get over yourself.

@2loco 3 года назад

@@siriosstar4789 would you like him to give you a pat on the back? Get over yourself tool.

@flippy66 2 года назад

@@siriosstar4789 Lol what do you want, a big thank you at the end of every video? Who cares.

@jennifercoons9040 4 года назад

Great Video, Thank you! I changed brake pads and bled the system on my SRAM Guide Brakes. Worked as described with one exception. When I was done I realized I couldn't pressurize the system the way you describe (at about 12:15) from the lever/reservoir as you instantly loose the pressure, (and a fair amount of fluid) replacing the reservoir screw. I ended up pressurizing the system from the caliper end once I had bled the brake lines and closed off and replaced the hex screw at the lever. I worked beautifully and was able to keep the system pressurized by tightening the caliper bleed nut while I had it under slight pressure from the syringe. What I gave me was the instant brake feel in the lever, with out all of the lever travel that occurs with unpressurized brake system.

@flw454 4 года назад

experiencing the same on my guide r, I will try this trick as well in hopes of getting that mushy lever feeling away!

@TheSpragz 3 года назад

Great advise. I’m going to try this

@andrewfrank-loron1802 3 года назад

Genius! Great idea!

@TheSpragz 3 года назад

I did it this way after reading your comment. 1000% better than Sram’s way. Instantly better brakes

@jamiemumby 2 года назад

Thanks! This is hands down, the most useful comment ever. Thank you! 🙏 😊

@kdhwjudson 3 года назад

Doddy, I can’t thank you enough for this video. I followed it step by step after accidentally popping out a piston on my Guide’s. I bought the kit you mentioned, followed every step, and the result is perfect. Thanks so much.

@hig4s 5 лет назад

OK, I had to change levers on my Guide R brakes so needed to bleed them after. I watched the Sram video and this one several times, then ordered all the tools, and started. Took two tries but got the front brakes great. The rear were a different story. So I watched the video again to make sure. After six tries, the final one with the caliper completely off the bike so I could get the hose straight to make sure no air was being trapped, I had to go off script. No matter what I did, after pressurizing the system a little, when I would remove the syringe from the lever it would squirt back some fluid and leave the lever too soft. (again this worked fine on the front) I finally, carefully, put the bleeding point syringe back on the caliper, and pressurized the system, just a little, from there. Now the rear are as solid as the front.

@wa67jr 4 года назад

I realise I'm about 8 months late on commenting but you're right, dont pressurise the system from the lever. I found that sealing off the lever and adding pressure through the caliper then shutting the system off with the bleeding edge significantly improves the feel and effectiveness of the brake

@MrDehicka 4 года назад

Thanks, I've watched several bleed videos and found one with another great tip @7m14 for bleeding at the midpoint adjustment ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ACGyA1QVWIg.html

@toozizzle550 3 года назад

Oooooooooh I’m 2 years late but I’m going to try the calliper pressure suggestion today. Sick of spongy rear lever

@amend2806 3 года назад

At your own risk and carefully to not spill dot fluid all over: Do the bleed as per instructions. Re-attach the wheel, stick the syringe thing to bleeding edge port on the caliper with some amount of fluid in it (if not already in). Screw the port open and make sure you are not pushing air to the system (keep syringe pointing upwards and make some vacuum to pull any air from the system). Push syringe until brake pads almost touch the rotor. Close the port while holding the pressure. Make some vacuum on the syringe before/while removing the syringe to prevent dot fluid from going all over. Levers should bite almost instantly now.

@toozizzle550 3 года назад

@@amend2806 legend. Thank you! It does make more sense to add pressure without the bleed block place unlike the way they tell you with the block in cos otherwise it's just the same as before it was bled again 😂

@objectuser 3 года назад

I come back to this each year when it’s time to bleed my brakes for the new season. Excellent demonstration!

@jackmcandle6955 2 года назад

For some reason ive never bled my 2009 avid elixir just put new pads on as needed ?…? The same with my ‘16 m8000 shimano brakes but im here because my new bike came with sram and the Level tL kinda suck as far a lever throw and now have to buy a bleed KiT ?

@Onlydansmtb Год назад

I bleed my brakes 2/3 times a season lol, just to make sure they're 100% when I do bike parks/Gnar

@WildMidwest1 2 года назад

Doddy, thank you for escorting me through my first brakes bleed on my 2021 SC Tallboy. Sadly the base level SRAM G2 brakes that came on my S-carbon bike build were the older, pre-bleeding edge system, but the bleed process wasn’t that much worse than what you showed. I clamped my bike with her tail up in the air. When I removed the syringe from the rear caliper port a couple drops of oil scooted out before I could reinsert the port screw. Squeezing the plunger at the handlebar forced a tiny bubble and a couple drops of oil out out the rear port before I tightened the screw down. Everything else was the same as in your video. I probably could have figured it out without your video, and the Park Tools brakes bleed video is also excellent, but I doubt it would have gone as smoothly on my first attempt without your crystal-clear instructions. Bravo!

@MofosandSons 2 года назад

One of the best and easiest to follow tutorials I've ever watched. Thanks a mil Doddy!

@richardwinget7729 3 года назад

Big into Mountain Biking in my 30's, back into it in my 60's. Bike have changed a lot and this video helped my bleed my brakes flawlessly. Thanks.

@stevenfelton5235 4 года назад

Thanks, Doddy!! I needed to bleed my rear brake and your video was invaluable. I had never done it before and following your video made bleeding the brake much easier. Without your help I would have had to take it to the shop for service which would have been about a 2 to 3 week wait due to the Covid 19 pandemic causing a back up in service time. I rode today and the brakes worked great. Thanks again, and if you ever come to Pennsylvania to ride in Coopers Gap/Rothrock State Forest, I owe you a beer!

@harry125110 4 года назад

GMBN are amazing with there videos and this one taught me perfectly how to bleed the all new Sram Code R brakes. Perfect step by step instruction and will defently use GMBN for future stuff on bikes. Thanks a lot for the help mate 😉

@Ubeer85 6 лет назад

I first watched srams own how to bleed with bleeding edge. I guess my brain is to slow or smth but Doddys guide is so much better. He speaks and show you in a way that make it look easy.

@ogriboy 4 года назад

A great video and also gives great info on the different types of bleed valves which saved a lot of time. Would just say that when all the air is out of the tubes the job is not necessarily complete especially if you have had to change the main piston in the lever. It took 2 attempts to get the air lock out in that situation by pushing the fluid in both directions before closing off the calliper. The other key as stated is to ensure the lever is open to the max for full piston travel.

@vitspenatek455 4 года назад

I bled the brakes following Doddy's instructions today. All went super smooth. This how-to is bleeding good!

@gmbntech 4 года назад

Good to hear Vit!

@plmn93 2 года назад

This still results in a mushy lever that takes a lot of travel before it bites. If you want to firm it up, you need to do it with the wheels on and pads in. If you don't need a full bleed, connect at the caliper, then loosen the bolt at the lever. Open the valve and force fluid in at the caliper until it comes out the lever, then put the lever bolt back in. Then give the syringe some pressure and close off the valve at the caliper. You do need to be careful doing this and clean up any spilled fluid. This will get the brakes much closer to the fast initial bite that you may expect from Shimano, while still giving you the good modulation you expect from SRAM.

@cruiserdesignmanufacturing 4 месяца назад

This 100%. I'm not sure how someone can say they're pressurizing the system when they unscrew the syringe and let fluid leak out at the lever then just put the screw back in.

@josefarnost5606 2 месяца назад

And you may end up with the DOT spilling out of the pressure relief holes located in levers. I personally think it will be leaking until it become the same mushy long dead stroke feel like before. Experienced fellas also say this is the way to damage the internal bladder and end up thrashing the brake...

@plmn93 2 месяца назад

@@josefarnost5606 Not saying it can't happen, but I've been doing this for years and they have never leaked. And It doesn't change the peak pressure when actually using the brakes so I would question any claim that it will damage the bladder.

@josefarnost5606 2 месяца назад

@@plmn93 Just happened to me, the DOT still leaks a bit. I'll see... a bit scared though 🙄

@darkwolve 5 лет назад

Getting a 2020 Stumpjumper next week with this system on it. Right on time finding this video!!! Thanks Dod!

@MephrosisEld 6 лет назад

You can remove the little clip in the retaining pad bolt with the 2.5mm allen key. The clip has the eyebolt that is exactly sized for the 2.5mm allen key and in this way you won't lose it

@TraceyAllen 5 лет назад

FYI plain water will clean and flush DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5.1 brake fluids. They are not corrosive, but are reactive to paint, plastics, and other coatings. They are alcohol based, and will absorb water out of the air. The only real difference between the 3 types are their boiling point.

@WildMidwest1 2 года назад

Thanks, that is what I needed to know. 😁

@SantiMagic22 3 года назад

Thank you GMBN. I just finished doing this step by step. Perfect. Breaks work perfectly. Probably saved $150 from the shop.

@Only-one-life-68 3 года назад

The best review I’ve seen for the sram brakes thank you 🙏

@Larpy1933 4 года назад

Man, that was superbly done. If university profs could teach that well, it would mean a revolution had occurred. Thanks a million.

@cryptoalpha1213 4 года назад

Amazing video Doddy! Managed to do this first time with SRAM Pro brake bleed kit and brakes feel awesome

@starshihtzupuppy3409 4 года назад

very good Doddy when you include mentioning how to responsibly dispose off the used oil, educating your viewers including me on how to keep our environement. Thumbs Up!

@rollinrat4850 4 года назад

I just put hydraulic oil in with recycled motor oil. You maybe able to drop it off at a service station. Depends what your laws are.

@nickchapple593 5 лет назад

Cheers Doddy. Bought the SRAM bleed kit for Code/Guide R/RS. Watched your vid a few times, now bleed all my bikes with confidence and getting results as good as a shop. It does take practice, but massive reward when doing it yourself. Cheers Bud.

@atjones5250 11 месяцев назад

Thanks for a great video. Shouldn't preasurising the system be done from the calliper end? Seems a bit pointless from the lever end when any pressure just offloads by pushing a load of fluid out after taking the syringe out? I did it from the caliper end which was the only way I could get pressure in and get it nice and sharp

@DieMarkeistalles 4 года назад

Great explanation, very helpful, very well produced video - thanks a lot!

@lynguist 6 лет назад

Superbe tutorial, helps a lot! Cheers doddy

@Croseb2 3 года назад

Thanks Doddy! After attempting to bleed my Level brake after watching the SRAM video, I failed miserably. Frustrated and about to take the bike to my LBS, I saw your video and decided to give it another try. While the steps are the same, I felt your explanation was more thorough and made the process much easier. I quickly realized I missed a key step in closing the plunger lever on the caliper end. The only outstanding issue I have is my torque wrench does not go below 2Nm (1.5-1.7Nm recommended) and to my knowledge Park does not make one that goes that low so I hope I gave the drain bolts enough tension as I did not want to strip them. Great content as always from GMBN!

@michaelhawk4609 5 лет назад

Thank you for all of these great videos! I just bled my front and rear brakes on a brand new bike and my Guide R's have firmed up like 2x!!

@anoopkatti528 Год назад

Thanks Doddy! Really pleased with the instructions and I did my brakes spot on. Thanks again

@jimwitte8183 Год назад

thank you for this excellent video. using your guidance here I was able to bleed the brakes instead of waiting weeks for my bike shop’s next availability.

@Olzone2 5 лет назад

great video guys, made my day so much easier!!!

@theodounis 6 лет назад

Doddy fantastic tech video keep them coming 👍

@thomas2cooper 11 месяцев назад

thanks- my first bleed of my SRAM DOT brakes after doing Shimano Mineral Oil for the last 6 years. cheers

@MartinLeventon 6 лет назад

Looks much nicer way of doing things compared to my current avid brakes. I am looking forward to upgrading to the new system :)

@theodounis 6 лет назад

Great video Doddy very informative

@ShitStefanShoots 3 года назад

No mater how old the video is - I ordered the SRAM kit, followed the instructions and got it done thanks to this tutorial ;o)

@thebeatclinic9000 Год назад

Just done this with an Epic bleed kit. A combination of this vid and epic kit instructions 👌

@DuffDuff-mu9qd 4 года назад

I’ve used the kit from epic bleed solutions a few times now and the only way it made the bleed a pain is you have to be quite careful not to pull too hard when creating the vacuum as if you pull too hard, as the seals aren’t the best they will bring in a bit of air into the syringe so it isn’t as robust a feel as the official SRAM one but with a bit of finesse you can bleed them perfectly

@nickwatkins5227 6 лет назад

Nice 👍 one Doddy very detailed video . 👀

@Lowgradenarcolepsy 4 года назад

Nice one. Clear and concise. Thanks mate.

@stefdillen 6 лет назад

Perfect,... Doddy is The Man !

@kylejohnson8398 4 года назад

Just bled for the first time. DOT fluid EVERYWHERE. But got my firm brakes back so thanks! 👍🏾

@Sooka_Phatwon 3 года назад

Yup, same here! Cheers Doddy 👍

@harryfettes393 Год назад

Followed this when upgrading LevelT to Code R on my Levo. Codes working great. Good modulation and can lock either wheel at will. Only problem is the bite point. Initially it was poor on both brakes (probably result of the Epic bleed block width). I managed to get the rear good by removing the wheel and operating the brake carefully to close up the pads. The same trick on the front improved them but the bite point front & rear are annoyingly different. Any tips.

@benellis1297 3 года назад

Exactly the information I was after, many thanks 😊

@peternemec2395 2 года назад

Great Video, Thank you! I used SRAM Standard Bleed Kit with DOT 5.1 Brake Fluid. Everything went according to plan except for one thing: When I was keeping the caliper syringe vertical and pulling up on the lever syringe, the caliper syringe plunger was not moving. It is not clear to me what the cause may have been, since before I pushed the liquid into the caliper syringe, it flowed without any problems.

@Fromupnorth46 3 года назад

Perfect demonstration and explanation. Thanks

@tylermorgan6020 6 лет назад

Thanks for the tips 👌

@MissingLinkMTB 5 лет назад

Watched a few other videos today on this, none compare. No weird things that don't make sense and straight to the job.

@hamishburnet5911 3 года назад

Awesome tutorial video Doddy, just bleed my code R's this vid made it easy as can be.

@mall231 2 года назад

How are your brakes doing 🤔

@Devast8r34 3 года назад

Thank yall for all the videos

@alanedwards6593 2 года назад

Cheers mate you've made me feel confident enough to buy the service kit and try the job myself .

@gmbntech 2 года назад

Glad we could help Alan & goodluck!

@MrDavid949 11 месяцев назад

I have found that this procedure results in very mushy brakes on sram code R and code RSC brakes. To get the brakes feeling good, after air is bubbled out, close up the lever port, then with the caliper still open apply pressure on the caliper syringe and hold it tight. While holding the pressure with your thumb, close the caliper bleed port, then release pressure from the syringe. Now the lever will not be mushy.

@WIPEYOURLENZ 6 лет назад

I take it that you then just return the the contact and lever reach adjustment back to the original settings?

@kentmoore2132 3 года назад

You sure make this look easy. I have fluid all over the place when I tried to bleed mine.

@vault-boydan4984 5 лет назад

If you have Shimano brakes you can use that extra hour of time that you save to actually ride a bike :D.

@SteveSUX2BU 5 лет назад

Haha agreed. Changed all my brakes over to Shimano. 1 cup to bleed all.

@peglor 5 лет назад

Also since Shimano uses mineral oil, which has a higher boiling point, doesn't attract water (Which dramatically reduces the boiling point), hold dissolved gas or strip your bike's paint, it doesn't need to be replaced for years. Magura, who've been using mineral oil for their brakes since they first entered the bike market probably over 40 years ago at this stage, don't even have a recommended replacement interval for their oil because it just stays working - I have a Julie on one bike that's been running the original fluid for probably a decade at this stage just feed it brake pads and adjust the reach screw in the lever every couple of years (It works loose very very slowly) and that's it. The only things going for DOT fluid are that if it does get on your disks, spraying the whole lot with water will usually get everything back working because DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 are very water soluble, while with mineral oil you pretty much have to burn it out of the pads (Or replace them) and degrease the disk and caliper (I find sanding the disk in a mix of water and washing up liquid gives great results) and it's easier to find if there are no decent bike shops around. Citroen LHM (Hydrauilc oil for their hydropneumatic suspension systems) works perfectly in Magura brakes in my experience if you're stuck, I even got a leaky set of HS33's back working once by using slightly higher viscosity fork oil (Still a mineral oil). Both Shimano and Magura will swear blind that using the oil for one in the other company's brakes will damage them, but I suspect this is more about warranty and selling their approved parts than for any genuine reason.

@JohnDoe-rl9ft 4 года назад

peglor The problem with mineral oil for brakes is exactly that it doesn’t absorb water. Which means that any water in the system will collect at the caliper and lower the boiling point of the system to that of water. In practice that is not a big issue for mtb brakes but it certainly is for cars, trucks and motorcycles.

@nikolasthyr9538 4 года назад

But if you want to stop, use SRAM

@lux-3001 4 года назад

You mean after you've spent an hour sorting out the inconsistent lever feel by rebleeding the factory bled brakes, right?

@benkutscha4585 6 лет назад

first of all, great channel. doddy u're awesome. about the bleeding: i got myself an avid kit for my sram guide rs breaks (2017 model) but noticed that the the fitting (golden) of the syringe is threated and therefore different from the syringe fitting you are using in your clip. does it also work with the threated syringe for the sram models after 2015? would like to avoid opening the packaging in terms of a possible exchange...

@sthr2110 2 года назад

I've found the best way to bleed these is to simply push the fluid back and forth between the two syringes 10 or 15 times. Forces all of the air out and leaves a perfect lever. SO easy. 3 minutes per brake.

@jxpowers Год назад

Isn't the whole point to push new oil into the system? By pushing it back and forth all you're doing is mixing old discoloured oil and new oil into the system and contaminating everything.

@growlinbear 7 месяцев назад

Best, how to video's,very informative step by step ! Great preventative details that could cause mistakes !My brake performance is now incredibly better! Thank you

@markwright3156 6 лет назад

Doddy, iv got some formula brakes, would this be a similar procedure to bleed them, or slightly different?! cheers

@Will-ol9lp 3 года назад

Thanks I’ve just learned a lot from what you just said and did.

@SmokinMesa 5 лет назад

Got some squishy feeling guides, so will have to give this a go shortly. Is it worth letting the pistons free up a little whilst the pads are out (mine seem to come out one side dominanat)?

@gtrance3567 Год назад

Great video thank you! Question while I got the rear caliper working just fine I still can’t get the front one to engage. In fact, when I go through the bleeding process, I don’t even get any bubbles which is strange. Any suggestions?

@RobertJamesGoddard 3 года назад

Thank you for this!

@gregwebster8784 4 года назад

You're a saint! It all seemed so confusing before this video. 10 minutes start to finish. Way easier than shimano.

@The_Dude_420 4 года назад

I have both brands, only bleed shimano till now, but by looks doing this with SRAM looks harder

@dookie3453 4 года назад

How can this possibly be easier than Shimano. You can do a 30 second bleed just using a cup on Shimano to get any air out. Then if you need you can do one similar to this with syringes.

@pcloadletter2147 6 лет назад

How does the fluid blacken in a closed system? Maybe it's the o-rings in the caliper or lever? Bled my Guide RS for the first time after 2 seasons and 2 sets of pads and the fluid was dark.

@jumbleross 6 лет назад

Come on Doddy what’s the pen for?

@GrumpOG 5 лет назад

Is it okay to use silencer spray on disc brake pads? I have some disc brake silencer spray from Swissstop. What are the pros and cons with that product?

@jerroldstoke927 3 года назад

Great video and thanks!! I'm just wondering why Sram brakes are not bled from the bottom to the top to force the air out?

@robincooney1263 3 года назад

Nice and clear and logical. Thanks.

@wd99999 Год назад

Still a great video! just bled my new set of Code RSC’s after shortening the cables, went great 😁

@julianulrich1500 Год назад

Thank you, perfect tutorial 😊

@siggertherigger9833 Год назад

Great video, Thanks. I have a question though. What about the older models that you mention, that don't have the "edge" tech? How do you remove the syringe and get the plug back in without getting air in the system?

@pochito_javiercito Год назад

Thanks Doddy. I just finished bleeding my brakes for the very first 😁

@weathdone 3 года назад

great vid like always just one question cause no one seems to be specific about the measurement on the lever is it to the acual tip of lever meaning the very tip of the bent end part or is it to the flat part of the end of the lever please lmk if u get chance.. sorry if its dumb question but the measurements are A LOT diff ......!!!!

@Jeffair728 2 года назад

Thank you for this video.

@ashevillescarborough 4 года назад

Late on commenting, but great video! Gives me some confidence on trying this.. have Always been a Shimano holdout, but this makes it look manageable

@rollinrat4850 3 года назад

Shimano brakes are far more reliable and long lasting than Sram. Shimano's use mineral oil and don't suffer all the issues of Sram and their DOT fluid. Shimano brakes are also far easier and faster to bleed. Sram has serious quality issues. I'm a shop mechanic. My shop has recalled, warrantied and replaced hundreds of Sram levers and entire brake assemblies in the last several years. Sram has had the same quality and DOT fluid related issues they've had for several years. They've never solved their problems. Sram doesn't take quality control seriously. Its more than obvious. I wouldn't recommend anything they sell as a result.

@rollinrat4850 3 года назад

I forgot to mention, I'm a career machinist and mechanical inspector. Ive built things that fly in space, that humans rely upon. Ive built surgeon's instruments as well as lots of other pricey machinery. I believe I qualify as a quality expert. Cyclists are human too!! The bike industry's marketing BS can't fool me! The lack of decent quality control in the bike industry concerns me and it ashames those who know better.

@ashevillescarborough 3 года назад

@@rollinrat4850 no one arguing this.. with 40 years of bike mechanicing under my belt, couldn’t agree more. But when you bike you bought has sram, sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do, lol

@rollinrat4850 3 года назад

@@ashevillescarborough That's why I mentioned the Sram Pro bleed kit elsewhere. It makes a pain in the ass procedure a little less painful. I can use cheaper syringes for mineral oil bleeds and the seals don't go bad. DOT fluid sure is nasty stuff, but Hope, Hayes and Formula seem to make decent brakes! I just find it hard to accept brakes not to mention anything from a company that's never made hydro brakes very well. Even in the best circumstances, Sram doesn't work really well for more than a few short years before the piston seals get sticky and pads start rubbing constantly. I see brand new Srams with sticky pistons! We've recalled and warrantied Guide and Level brake levers for all the 6 years I've been wrenching in a shop and my old Avid Juicies suffered similar problems. They've never fixed these quality issues! My company, a large chain of shops in Wackofornia has replaced THOUSANDS of these levers. Haha! Its job security! Im still using a set of ten year old XT brakes and they still work great, but the levers leak very slightly. I'm on a campaign to try and help consumers not make the mistake in buying Sram in the first place. Overpriced for very poor quality control kind of piss me off. These are brakes we're talking about. A company that doesn't take brake quality nor their consumers well being seriously doesn't deserve any business at all in my opinion. But I'm sure I'm just preachin' to the choir in your case!

@mortenbjoernsvik6550 4 года назад

Had to bleed a completely new bike, breaks where terrible it was like abs never enough power. The winning tip was after getting rid of the bubbles getting as much fluid into the system as possible. Now they are fantastic. It is a completely different experience going downhill.

@Jacksquatch69 6 лет назад

Sweet video, how to I stop this problem.. I bleed them they work great, until I do a big downhill and get everything real hot..then they suck again and I have to watch the video again and re-do it... They don't suck but they get a bit spongy and never recover until i re-bleed.

@sudo936 3 года назад

I shortened my Sram Force hydro brake hoses and did the bleed and noticed a ton of what I think is dot compatible grease in the fluid that came from the factory bleed. I tried to flush alot of it out but there is still gonna be some in there. I guess that must be the reason for the dot compatible grease.?

@davidstepro7486 Год назад

you make it look so easy!

@tomguillon3457 5 лет назад

Is it problematic if you only do the last step (bleed the lever) if you don’t have the right seringue for the caliper. Will the brake feel less spongy by doing this waiting for the right tool ?

@joetaylor486 Год назад

Superb. My brakes will be serviced beyond any reproach.

@mrsmartypants_1 5 лет назад

Comment and question. I am under the impression one advantage of DOT 5.1 is that it cleans up great with mere water. That there is no need for 91% isopropyl alcohol or aerosol brake fluid cleaner. Am I wrong? (Folks still recommend cleaning contaminated rotors with brake fluid cleaner as it dries so fast.)

@runejensen6145 3 года назад

if starting with a fresh system containing no dot fluid, how much dot fluid should go in the upper syringe?

@thebeardedyorkshireman8368 4 года назад

Can you use this way for the none edge version?

@michaeljlr8646 3 года назад

would be so much easier with a bleeding edge port on the lever side also, everyone that has done this knows that fluid pours out of the lever when you unscrew the syringe but no one ever shows that on camera.

@johncast9565 2 года назад

Exactly!

@andygoodwin 2 года назад

Which is why I remove in the reverse order!

@Bittersfamily0424 2 года назад

Hi, my SRAM Code R’s are about four years old. I have taken good care of them giving them a fresh bleed once a year with new pads. My front brake pads are way to close to the rotors. Seems like the don’t retract much at all. I then rebuilt the caliber, but this did not fix the problem. I have followed your video and I can not get these brakes to not rub. Just too close to the rotor. I feel like when I do my final push to pressurize the system it pushes the pistons out to far??? Not sure what I am doing wrong, please help🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

@richATTK1 4 года назад

New Code R brakes, I'm not sure where my problem is stemming from but I cut the line to fit, I'm following everything exactly in video and my rear pistons are barely moving. Only in the rear though, the fronts are perfect. Very frustrating, I've bled it 3 or 4 times already and I don't want to bring it to a shop I like working on things myself. Maybe there's still air in the lever or something I'm missing? Doddy help!

@Hadgfeet 6 лет назад

I don't even have SRAM brakes but I like videos of doddy!

@ekinteractive 4 года назад

is it ok to use %99.9 ipa on levers and calipers? Should i mix it with water to have %70-75 ipa?

@ToniReviews 2 года назад

Hi. I wonder if you can help? I have a cube stereo MTB which has sram guide r brakes on it. I recently went on a trip and the weather was rather nice and warm and my brakes began to bind. By the time we stopped for lunch they had completely seized. I took it to a mechs and they said the pistons inside the sram levers had become stuck probably due to a combination of the weather and the old brake fluid. Having had this experience friends are telling me it’s a problem with Stan brakes and to swap them out for a set of magura. The question is do I replace the seals and fluid and keep up regular annual fluid renewals on the srams or swap them out for the magura or are these also potentially susceptible? If it’s a common problem I’ll swap them out but if it was a one off due to my poor brake lever maintenance I’ll just rebuild them. Thoughts please? Thanks

@owentravel 2 года назад

Wonder how you guys clean the bleeding tool? I just wiped the outside of the tools by isopropyl alcohol. However I didn’t clean the inside of the syringe and the pipe.

@TheLeedaddy 3 года назад

Is there a trick to bleeding the code r brake with bleeding edge. As ive watched a few youtube videos but get the same results each time I do it. I follow all the steps get pressure back in the lever then when removing the syringe and go to put the bleed port screw back in i lose all the oil and the brake has no power again. Please help me. Thanks for your time

@backyarddiver86 2 года назад

Well done.Follow that.

@samuelnaidenov 6 лет назад

What's that Sender?

@Chromedome-ss6mg 4 года назад

I got the rockshox bleed kit for the dropper, I hope that works

@Rasedan 2 года назад

Great video, thank you. How do you clean and prepare the syringes for the next bleed though? Do you have to run isopropyl alcohol through them or just get all the oil you can out of them by pressing the syringe and just get the new oils in on the next run? Maybe a little cross contamination doesn't hurt that much on the left over oil?

@edt5276 5 месяцев назад

Yes, I'd recommend flushing syringe & tubes with alcohol for 2 reasons. (1) alcohol is volatile and will easily and completely disappear over a short time. And (2) DOT fluid is caustic, so you don't want it contaminating & possible spreading over your stored service equipment. Not the end of the world if you store minimal DOT fluid in your service equipment. But it is hydrophilic (attracts water) and it is NOT volatile (like alcohol is) so, after a year, the DOT residue will still be there, it'll now be 'wet' and will grow in volume. Again, not a huge deal but if you start next year's flush with a wet residue of last year's DOT fluid, just make sure to do a few quick rinses of your 'contaminated' syringe & tubes with the SMALLEST amount of new, dry, DOT fluid. If, after sitting a year, the old residue is maybe 50%(?) water, after the first rinse, the new residue might only be 10% water. Then only 1% after 2nd rinse. Maybe 0.1% water after 2nd rinse.

@lucaslirette7643 6 лет назад

+ GMBN Tech Why didn't you also pressurize bleed the caliper. You did with the lever but not the caliper. Is there a reason for that? I know with 2016 or older you do have to.

@darrenwall5439 3 года назад

Cheers Doddy💚

@Jeb_1913 2 года назад

Hey, this is really useful and clear, thank you - only issue I have is that when I remove the top syringe right near the end then fluid pees out of the handle and I lose pressure. I've sealed the bottom end and followed all of the instructions to the letter. thoughts ?

@Jeb_1913 2 года назад

Actually just read down th comments and sounds like doing the process but using the caliper end last is the way to hold pressure in the system. will let u know if it works.