Great video for us using SRAM, honestly I just wish @sram would also do a type of bleeding edge in the level, that would really tidy things up and would stop leaks when compresing the system
You can do the same with SRAM brakes, as long as you get all air out, the pressuring part is nonsense anyway if you stroke the lever a couple of time while pushing fluid from the bottom (caliper) you'll probably achieve faster and better results, I do...
As ive bled SRAM brakes with contact adjustment alot, i personally think the SRAM method is absolute trash and bleeding should be as done here. this way you can dial your lever throw shorter and you get much more power/bite feel in the pads if everything is done properly and nothing is contaminated. IMHO i think SRAM messed up the bleed video, and were too proud to admit the mistake and just let it sit there... I can see no other logical reason for rotating the contact point the way they did. If you bleed brakes the SRAM way, you cant dial in your brakes to have a shorter lever throw. With this method, you can :) With that said, dont push from the caliper up to the lever if your replacing liquids.. you want to push from the lever out the caliper so you dont drag all the contaminants sitting in your caliper up through your hoses and lever reservoair
Hi Owen great video. However the preping of the syring and pulling of the syringe is Not actually drawing air out of the fluid itself. You're not changing the state of the DOT fluid especial at room temperature. The air that looks like is coming from the fluid is actually air that is find its way through the seals of syring lever/plunger. The only way to extract air or water from the DOT oil is to change its state by heat. Just like water, you add heat, water boils, and turns into water molecules/vapor. Just thought you should know.
I spent hours trying to figure out why I couldn't bleed my rear brake, then discovered that the diaphragm inside the lever tray had deformed preventing fluid from passing through. I hope this suggestion will help if the same thing happens to anyone.
what I do differently to get some pressure into the system is, that I close the system on the lever first, put some pressure down at the caliper and close the screw with the syringe. trust me guys, the brake will feel much snappier.
follow up question -- do you completely remove the lever syringe and turn in the screw before adding pressure at the caliper? seems like that is what I'd do if I wanted to get a bit more pressure in there. Then while slightly pressurized at the caliper, close the bleeding edge port and remove?
Hack: how to store Dot fluid or other "hydrosensitive" things. Use ziplock bags and add small silica gel packages (from electric, shoe packages etc. = Free)
Didn’t work for me… there must be a ton of pressure in the line at the brake lever because when I pull the screw to the syringe out, it comes out spilling over and when I put the screw back in the brake lever still collapses to the bar.??? What am I doing wrong?
Curious if you ever figured this out! My thought would be either 1) you have a leak in your system somewhere or 2) a lot more fluid is coming out than should or 3) you don't have anything blocking your pistons when you compress lever?
If the fluid is dirty once you push the old fluid out, best to stop, get rid of the old fluid, clean the syringes and start with clean fluid and syringes in both.
I rode SH for 20 years, I wanted to try something different, so I tried Sram Code. In fact, its awesome brake. I really dont like SHs lever like point differences. With right tools is Sram bleed pretty easy and allways succesfull. SH often lets dome air in system. They say: Bubbles in mineral oil allways flows up. Not true. Moving fluid up and down is much better idea.
The Contact Adjust dial is supposed to be wound in the opposite direction to the arrow. Why not pull the vacuum at the end on the lever too after closing off the bleeding edge port? Sram also advise not to push from the caliper incase the pressure dislodges the bleeding edge fitting.
@@statom985 It’s in the Code Bleed Manual For levers with Contact Point Adjustment: Rotate the Contact Point Adjustment dial in the opposite direction of the arrow until it stops. Do not push brake fluid into the caliper with the caliper syringe. Excessive fluid pressure can cause the Bleeding Edge syringe tool to dislodge from the caliper. Use the lever syringe to move fluid through the system. Hold the syringe at the lever vertically. Firmly pull on the plunger to create a vacuum, then compress the plunger to pressurize the system. Repeat this process several times or until only a small amount of bubbles exit the system.
I was also thinking the same, however, after bleeding my brake following the sram advice, I realized there was no way to shrink the contact point anymore (because it was bled with the contact dial all the way in). It feels like to get most adjustability after the bleed, maybe best to have the contact dial at the mid point ? Thoughts ?
I seem to be in the minority here but I really like the SRAM bleeding edge system. It’s easier (but messier) to bleed my hope brakes but I get much better consistent results bleeding the SRAM brakes.
dot oil from company's marketing it for sram breaks price it about 5 pound per 120ml when you can go to any local halfords or simlar and buy an entire liter for about 8 pound which will outlast your bike
Buying brake fluid in bulk means all that unused fluid is sitting around in your garage, slowly absorbing water. This guarantees you will be putting contaminated fluid into your brake system in less than three years. This is a mistake.
Fill the lever syringe with fluid. A few ml in the caliper syringe. Push everything through from the lever syringe to caliper. Disconnect both and dispose of fluid. Refill syringes, 3/4 full on lever, 1/4 on caliper. Complete bleed as normal
@@puka6043 Sram advises to push and pull from the lever. They say this because pushing from the caliper can disconnect the bleeding edge from the pressure. But it’s probably better to at least push out the dirty/old fluid from the caliper instead of pushing all the shit up to your master cylinder. Initially you’re only getting new fluid in the system so doesn’t matter if you’re going the opposite way to which air would travel. Shimano says to push up from the caliper but how black their fluid gets I’d rather drain it from the caliper first. Then push up with clean fluid.
Any good dot fluid will work , but correct version . I use Motorex , Valvoline or Castrol . They also give good results . A friend who is a motorcycle technician found this during a sponsored rider race preparation , preliminary test with the Mondraker .
I avoid SRAM brakes on all by bikes - I like the feel of Shimano brakes, the power and reliability. All bleeding them is dead easy. The SRAM process is easy once you know how to do it … but isn’t everything? It’s a hassle.
Why… why why why would you use corrosive oil neer (carbon) bike parts and why so much work to bleed??? I’d say shimano has the better system and I’ve had both…🤷
For all the Shimano guys here to hate on Sram brakes. How about that Philips head screwdriver knob on those Shimano brakes that doesn’t do anything? - Jeff Cayley - 2020
@appelflapdrol no I think avid juicy 3 are always leaking in some sort of way not sure if dot fluid causes more air to get in system more easily I just prefer mineral fluid brake systems less hassle
