This is the only video that actually encouraged me to do it by myself and I have! Thanks a million. Didn't have a kit however (but did have the funnel and a pipe), so I got a medical syringe from the pharmacy and chucked in a 10 mm allen key instead of a blocker. Cost me a fraction of what I would have to pay for a kit where I live.
This is now my favorite cycling channel, literally relaxes me just to put it on and listen to you give tips on bike maintenance. I never get tired of it,very relaxing. Thank you.
@@ribblevalleycyclist No. keep doing exactly what you’re doing. Also the sound quality is great. I’m also going to finally tackle a brake bleed. Great stuff.
Will do. The brake bleed is easy. Make sure you've got everything you need before you start, take your time, watch out for those air bubbles, and most of all, enjoy doing it yourself 👍. Let me know how you get on. Jon
This is probably the clearest video I have seen of how to bleed hydraulic disk brakes, having watched this I now feel much more confident in tackling the task! I am about to work on a friends, straight-bar bike, but the principal's the same (more or less). I was cursing for offereing to give their bike the once-over, but now I feel far more up to the job. Fingers crossed.
Hi Mark, So pleased you found the video useful and that you’ve done it yourself and seen an improvement. That’s the reason I make them. Got a few more on the way 👍 Thanks, Jon
Most useful video I've seen in a long time! I have a bike with Tektro discs that is overdue for a brake bleed. I have checked the Tektro website, and those, too, need mineral oil. I wouldn't have thought to ask before watching this video. You saved me a LOT of frustration.
Thanks for a clear and concise explanation, with wit. I have changed the pads on my Dutch bike but yet to bleed . I wasn't aware the pistons where plastic, I had assumed aluminium.
Well...... technically, I think they're ceramic. Probably should've explained that point a bit better. But you're right, they're not metal! Glad it was useful
Great tips - just did Tektro brakes following this. The hardware is a little different but the principle is exactly the same. Thanks for making the job a breeze.
Awesome vid well done!!! Liked your tips with the pad retaining bolt.I recently watched a youtube from zoubTube and he recommends getting rid of the dirty brake fluid in reverse because all the dirt enters the system from the caliber and you don't want to push all the crap into your lever which makes sense to me!So you fill the funnel and only put a little bit of fluid in the syringe and pull all the crapy fluid into the syringe.All the other steps are done exactly like your method.Cheers!!
Hi Glenn, Great tip! If I'm honest, I agree with you. It makes much more sense to do it that way. However, Shimano, and the industry generally recommends the other way because pulling the fluid down from the funnel is reliant on the individual putting enough fluid in the funnel to begin with, and not sucking a shed-load of air into the system. Pushing the fluid from a syringe upwards prevents this kind of error. Sometimes you need to allow for..... well, you know!!!! I suppose it's a bit like a car beeping loudly to say the door is open....... because the massive hole on the side of the car isn't warning enough 😀. Thanks for watching, glad you found it useful. Jon
Great video. Thank you. I changed to disc brakes as I was looking to invest in some deep carbon rims and was fed up with wearing out rims during wet winter rides. My disc carbon rims will now last for the length of the bike.
I just used this video and the Epic Bleed Solutions Shimano kit (£15.99) to replace the mineral oil in my Shimano 105 front hydraulic disc brake. The kit included everything to do the job and this video gave me the confidence to do the job myself. The key is to take your time and this video is well paced although I paused the video whilst doing each step myself. The proof will be in the road test but if I get back without brake failure then I'll be doing the rear brake next 😊🤞
@@ribblevalleycyclist heya Jon, just got back from a 30 mile road test and front brake was much better so now onto the rear brake. Presumably it'll need a drop more fluid for the rear as its got further to go ? Cheers Kev
Hi KCRCR, Good to hear the first one went well. The front is always easier, because most of the pipe faces upwards, so the air comes out easier. The back can be a little more difficult to get the air out, as there is less pipe facing upwards. It's common to see bike builders leave the bike on the stand at an angle, and the funnel on overnight, to let the air escape. And yes, it uses more...... roughly 50% more. Good luck with it 👍 Jon
Finally a working method mate! Thank you so much, I was fighting with my GRX 400 brakes for 2 days because of another stupid youtube video. You saved my day! Cheers
Hi iBiZa Smurf, Glad it helped. That's the trouble with RU-vid. I use the 4 video rule...... if they all say the same thing, then it's probably right!! Thanks for watching. Jon
Best video ever..... Not sure about that 😂. Glad you found it helpful, it's always great to hear that someone has found my content useful. Thanks for watching. Jon
Really good and clear video, just done mine (last did them 2 years ago and I'd forgotten how haha). One thing I found difficult was to get the angle of the bike enough to get the air to rise out of the back brake line (GRX600). It worked for me to take the calliper right off the frame and let it dangle so that it was thus the lowest part of the system. Also, GRX600, it's not a 2.5 Allen, it's a Torx15 to take the cap off the reservoir. I found out the hard way
Take the calliper off…… blumin’ genius idea that! Will be borrowing that one 😂😂 Yeah, as I say in the video, bleed port location and tool size does vary. Probably should’ve mentioned Torx though.
I’ve watched quite a few of these videos and one thing I don’t understand is why you don’t simply fill reservoir at top, open bleed nipple on calliper and hand pump fluid through until all air bubbles are out. This is how I have done it in the past on MTB’s and the theory is similar on cars (I E built track cars and installed brake systems in the past). Just seems like a lot of faffing and I’m not sure why 😅 Not a criticism just an observation. Nice video btw. I know a lot of riders complain about disc brakes and they can be a PITA with the rubbing and noises and faffing with bleeding them etc (if hydraulic).
I'm watching this due to it being my first time trying, but I would guess that since air travels upwards, you won't get as much air out if you're just doing it from the top? I also have the exact same question and haven't found any good answer
Good tip I heard is Bleeding it from top to bottom, especially if the brakes have not been taken care of for over a year, because doing it the usual way you basically get dirty oil through the entire system.
Mu son-in-law was having problems with his disc brakes (I have rim brakes) so my daughter asked me for advice. I had no idea so I watched this video. Seems well thought out. Will recommend to my son-in-law. If he still has problems, I have another job to do. Great video. Thank you.
My front bolt slightly seized and I was honestly surprised that shimano doesn't grease it from factory (these were brand new calipers untouched until my first service). Added grease and now it has been easy to undo.
did my first shimano brake bleed and used the instructions in the dealers manual for bleeding. i was worried that when i did the first squeeze after remounting the wheel and pads, the lever sank all the way but it did stiffen up after a pump or 2. i wasn't sure if that was normal but it looks normal in your video.
@@ribblevalleycyclist what happens inside the hydraulics as the pistons push in with actual brakes pads vs the block? does a bubble form in the lever? why not remount the wheel and pads after cleaning up the caliper and keep the cup with fluid on and squeeze again to stiffness before removing cup and cleaning up? is the space a buffer for fluid expansion in hot weather but what if it's cold?
Only time a bike shops touched my bike is to build new wheels! I've worked on my own for 30yr now but just wasn't in the mood the build set wheels so paid to have it done, but this was when there was a brilliant bike shop in my city now it's gone the 2 left are jokes one being halfords
I always use screw driver, the really big one and I always wrap it in electrical tape to make it soft and use it to push the pistons. Works like a charm every time and I never damaged anything. Just use common sense, be careful and don't use sharp edges or unnecessary force.
Excellent demonstration. Thanks for sharing. In some demos I have seen some people actually pressurise the hydraulic system after bleeding by forcing a little more oil in from the caliper end while keeping the top port closed. Is that a useful final step in your experience? You mention topping up after priming the system with the wheel and pads back in. Perhaps that would do the same thing?
Hi Andy, Glad you found it useful. A fantastic question. Pressurising is a thing, and can sometimes be beneficial. It can overcome excess lever travel where a lever doesn't offer free stroke adjustment (search YT for it). The downside is that it can send the pressure to the brake piston, and therefore cause pad rub. Hope that helps, Jon
Hi Steve, It is easy, give it a go. You can get rid of the old oil by taking it to your local waste disposal or recycling centre. Thanks for watching, Jon
Brilliant channel! Instant like and subscribe! Made my brakebleed a breeze!!! Gonna buy that Greasegun asap. What Grease do you use? Looking at the colour it might be the Shimano Premium one?
Hi Rory, Glad you liked it, and welcome onboard 👍 This is what is in there right now: amzn.to/45KcfWS But I also use this: amzn.to/3YWyJ4O Both are good, but the Park stuff is the best.
be really careful pushing shimano pistons back because the ceramic is very brittle. also make sure the bleed block fully supports the pistons, if not they can crack on the inside whilst bleeding when you squeeze the lever to check the bleed is good. If the pistons are pushed out (by pulling the lever) or in (when retracting manually) slightly out of square, they are quite likely to crack.
I just tip it on next doors roses 😉…. Just kidding. You need to check with your local recycling centre as to whether they accept used oil or hydraulic fluids.
Well done about as good a video of this work as I have seen. Getting ready to fo same with install of Ultegra 12 speed on Lynskey Pro GR, soon as fluid and discs show up.
@@ribblevalleycyclist H plus son Hydra with White Industries hubs. But bought for the Industry Nine I35 wheels I use for road mainly. Building up with Ultegra 12 speed now. Hope 160 front and SRAM 140 in rear.
Jon, excellent demonstration of this procedure, though I have just one question as I have never dealt with hydraulic brake system. For the front you filled the syringe 3/4, however I assume that that will not be sufficient in case doing the rear as the tube/hose is longer and volume is larger. What would be your recommendation for filling it when doing the rear brake, full? Thank you for your advise in advance.
Hi Yeh, Thanks, glad you like it. It's not easily answered, time, riding conditions and mileage all play a part. The best advice anyone can give is to consider bleeding if you have either spongy brake performance, or poor braking. Also, it's good practice to change every few years anyway. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching, Jon
Glad you like it. If it's normal nuts/bolts exposed to the elements, then yes. However, on the braking system, don't use grease on the bleed nipples or ports, as it may contaminate the system. Oh, and the best thing to use to prevent galvanic corrosion is Copper Grease. I use this one: amzn.to/3QhD4vc Thanks, Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist Thanks for your answer. I have Shimano GRX brakes. Some say that bolt is already protected from galvanic protection, and it is no need to use grease. Others say that any grease is ok, I heard also that some use litium grease.... It is little confuse for begginer as I am. What is your opinion? Thanks.
Hi. Very well explained, but I'm a little confused. At the beginning you show how near the lever comes to the bar and you say this is dangerous (no argument there). Near the end of the video and with the wheel back in, you still seem to be able to get the lever very near to the bar. It doesn't look as if much has changed. I expected a lot less travel on the lever.
Thank you ! Looking at some “big boys” videos on RU-vid i was nervous about doing it myself however you explained with such care and attention i am going to try doing it on my MTB. One question i have is do i need to keep slightly excess fluid in syringe downstairs so that when i am pumping the lever air doesn’t get in ? Also the bolt at caliper is open when pumping lever ? Cheers
Hi, Montu, Glad you've found this useful. You shouldn't need to add more fluid into the syringe at the caliper end, as pumping the lever will drawer fluid from the funnel end. Also, there should still be a little bit in the syringe pipe from when you pushed the3 fluid in. The problem with adding more fluid into the syringe, is you may also accidentally add air into the system. Hope that helps.
is it wrong to do it the opposite way? I mean using the syringe to pull the oil from the funnel and if any dirty oil comes into the syringe, close the circuit at the brake caliper, empty that syringe, reattach it, open the circuit then add more oil into the funnel and continue
Hi Comedyman112, No, not at all. The main task is to replace the oil without adding air. There is no reason you can't go the other way. Tip though, keep an eye on the supply at the top.... you don't want it to run dry and pull in loads of air!! However, when it comes to getting the air out, you'll still need to follow the standard process. Hope this helps. Thanks, Jon
Quick question. Would you recommend topping up the fluid again after bedding the new brake pads in? The fluid reservoir seems kind of small and I would guess the fluid level in it drops quite a bit after seating the new pads on to the disc. Thanks.
Hi Petcatznz, Very good question! When fitting new pads, you would push the pistons back into the caliper to accommodate the new thicker pads. So, theoretically, you shouldn't need to bleed. However, if you think the lever travel is excessive, or feels spongy, then it may be worth doing. Hope that helps. Jon
Really clear video thank you! - looking to get some advice, I’m swapping my rear 105 road calliper from BR-R7070 to BR-R7170 - question: I will need to change the olive, however do I need to change the insert as well? I'm looking to avoid cutting the hose unless absolutley necessary
Great video. 👍 What is the recommended brake fluid change in mileage? I’ve done over 13,000 mile on my Giant Defy and no problems with the brakes apart from several pads
Hi Mike, Thanks, glad you liked it. Good question. To be honest, I personally don’t think there is a definitive answer to this one. The issue is moisture and contamination, but if neither happen, do you need to even replace it? If you ask an expert like Park Tool for example, they’ll say once a year. Not sure about that though, because you may only do 100 miles in a year!! The fluid in that bike was over 3 years, and 7500 miles. It still worked, but had lots of travel, and was a little bit spongy. This would be by advice to anyone asking this question, if it’s got lots of travel it’s probably lost a bit, top it up and evaluate. If it’s spongy, it’s probably contaminated, just replace it. If it’s over 2 years or 10k, consider replacing it anyway. Thanks, Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist I think it's fine because I ge slight movement when I close the levers. I think the issue is still with my calipers though. My caliper has the same star screw has the levers. I can fit a funnel to the caliper but there is no valve to open and close.. I think my best option would be to get a new set of calpiers unless there is another method.. I thanks. I'm current using my front brake lol. :)
Glad you enjoyed it. I’d say do it when it starts to feel spongy or performs poorly. That one I did in the video had covered 7k miles, and it was still working, albeit poorly!
what could cause the lever to become extremely stiff after heavy braking? i understand overfilling them can cause this but thats not the case with mine
Good video but still can’t get the right feeling in the brakes , tried bleeding from the caliper and then pushing from the hoods , loads of feel when bleed black is in but as soon as I’ve finished the lever is still going nearly to the hoods have some bubbles but still can’t manage to get the lever to have a decent feel I give up it’s witchcraft
Sounds like air to me. One or two bubbles will kill the setup, it must all go. Tap the pipes, tap the levers, pull the levers, and tilt the bike whilst you're doing it. Some mechanics choose to leave the funnel on overnight to let all the strapped air escape.
After watching the Free to Cycle YT video on this subject, I think the problem is likely using a bleed block during the bleeding process, then putting in the old brake pads that are narrower (when compressed against the rotor) than the bleed block. This extra "travel" in the system would lead to spongy brake lever feel I think. If you replace the old pads with brand new pads after removing the bleed block, that might resolve the issue. The FTC YT video was interesting as he used a spray bottle spray head to suck the brake fluid and air from the caliper rather than pushing the fluid from the caliper. Also he left the pads in the caliper to avoid the problem with the bleed block leaving the lever feeling spongy when the pads were reinstalled.
No need to, the path is already open for the fluid to pass through the whole system. You only pump the lever when you need to encourage the trapped air in the lever to come out.
Are the 105 pistons really plastic? Om my shimano slx brakes the are some sort of ceramic but with that said they are even more brittle then plastic. If you push them in crocked they wedge and usually the only way they are coming out is in pieces.
Hi Ranx, great question. If the head is stripped but you've managed to get it out, don't re-use it. Some people use an R-Clip or a Split-Pin, but I'm not a fan of that, because you need to bend it to stop it coming out. You can buy replacements, check Gorilla Brakes out - gorillabrakes.com/collections/brake-pad-retaining-pins Thanks for watching, Jon
Why do all this with syringe, etc. and just do a gravity bleed from top? Pour brake fluid in the reservoir, open bleed at bottom and let fluid and air out until it runs pink. Close bleeder screw. Done
Because the two fluids will mix slightly. You'll never see a pro-mechanic do it like that, for that very reason. They will also mix slightly using either the push or pull technique, but it's less. Also, some brakes..... Shimano Road for example have narrow bleed nipples, so that process would take days.
Why does brake fluid have a fixed lifespan? DOT fluid can absorb moisture, which reduces hydraulic performance and therefore must be changed regularly. But mineral oil... if does not absorb moisture. No?
My understanding is its main enemy is dirt. The o-rings that sit between the caliper body and the piston will only stop so much. Dirt will get past the seal, and this contaminates the fluid. Additionally, the continual changes in pressure will take its toll on the fluid.
Wait big mistake 😊. Before you push the pistons, add a bit of lubricant on the piston ( mineral fluid). Give it few gentle squeeze watch pistons so that only 1-2 millimeters come out. Then you push pistons.
I hate riding with other disc riders down a hill. They just squeeeel like a pig all the way down! Also, this guys right! Most of the advantage of discs was during the first year of introduction, when novices discovered that a new disc brake was better than a 20 year old obsolete center mount Dia-Compe rim brake with hardened pads. Now that disc brakes have aged, you can see just how delicate, unreliable, and poor performing discs are when in the same unmaintained condition! And the maintenance is harder! Those 20 year old center mount brakes start looking real good after you simply replace the pads. Now get out your funnel and the little adapter for the funnel and use your allen key to bleed out all over the shop so don't forget the rag! Oh, and don't lose the little washer !
Nice video apart from the fact you bled the brake in the wrong direction. If all the contaminants are in the calipers end why would you push all that crap through the entire system and risk blocking the lever. Just do it the way Shimano recommends and gravity bleed from the top to the caliper.
Because the rear is a pain in the ar$e, because the process is extremely the same, except you need to tip the bike loads of times, to get the air round the bottom bracket….. which will make the video longer, and nobody would watch it.
I understand but all the more reason to newbie like me would like to take a peek before trying. Bikes is only few months old and only my rear brake handle is fully collapsed. I virtually cant find a single video. Gave up and just added a few milligrams of fluid via the handbrake screw, literally an hour ago - So I do at least have pressure now, but they need bled I’m sure. Also want to be sure and compliment on your particular video, you are well spoken, clear, and good at instructing.
