@9:26 👈 Finally, the guru has bestowed unto us the knowledge we need 🙏 Shimano tinkerers, these points are life changing - trust me. Took me a fair few attempts to work these out!!
It's obvious when you think about it. After all, we wouldn't fit a new rim brake cable, with the barrel adjuster wound all the way out now would we!!! 🤣
Thanks so much for this very clear and helpful video. Ever since getting a hydraulic disc brake bike I hated how the bite point felt compared to my old rim brake bike that is easily adjusted with cable tension. Now I adjusted it using your guide and it feels way better. The Shimano manuals do a terrible job explaining the free stroke adjustment.
lovely, the best thing i learned is that you need too turn the freestroke adj screw out before bleeding. my adjustment was zero so the mechanics must have missed this as well.
Excellent video as ususl,please keep them coming,at 1.26/27,as if by magic,the white coffee cup appears by your red bench vice,it just caught my eye and made me smile. Oh and if possible when you unbox or unwrap something on camera could you actually include the sequences please as i'm into ASMR and a lot of your work includes it in the video,maybe your not aware of it,please don't stop doing it as the way you do it is so subtle and more rewarding to listen too.
Hi Antony, That coffee cup..... Yeah, I noticed that in the edit. Thought to myself, well that looks a bit silly! Maybe I could make a feature with the cup jumping around from shot to shot 🤣. ASMR..... wasn't actually aware of it until now. Just watched a short video on it. It's actually an interesting concept, and makes the whole experience more realistic for the viewer.
Thank you for the concise and informative video. Super helpful. One question - at 9:30, when you say “positive reach adjustment” does that mean the reach screw has been turned clockwise several times? Or anti-clockwise?
I know you are discussing Shimano,. However, on my Sram Red AXS, my right (rear) lever will not allow any Free Stroke (Sram calls in Contact Point) adjustment. If I apply any FS adj to the lever, the result is draggy rear brake after riding for an hour or so (hot climate). I've read online that this may be due to swelling of the piston which then binds in the lever cylinder. I've tried all the tips you've mentioned, but the right lever has to have zero FS adj to work consistently. In fact, even when fully adjusted out, on long hot rides I can feel contact point of the lever closing up and reducing travel at the lever - just not enough to actually drag. It's frustrating, and likely only solved by investing in the knew Red levers.
Contact Point…. A much better name for it, make more sense than Free Stroke!!!! Your frustration isn’t exclusive to SRAM, they all suffer from it. Some models, especially the cheaper/earlier ones have poor modulation, whereby the movement of the lever is equal at the pad. Later/better versions have increased modulation where the pad moves much further, and therefore lifts it well clear of the pad. All you can do is keep it all well tuned and cleaned in order to reduce the issue. My disc rubbing video may give you some tips.
@@ribblevalleycyclistI've just bought a used Aeroad which came with SRAM Red AXS and after I'd finished needing to persuade the saddle clamp mechanism to move I've moved straight on tov the dragging front brake which wouldn't retract properly. I opened up the lever bleed port, a few drops leaked out and the pistons will now retract further but the bite point is now back at the bars. Contact adjustment or do I need a full re bleed do you think?
@bennp2000 Bleed it, then you know it’s done properly. Did one yesterday, was literally a 5 minute job. Link below to my video on how you do it. Remember though, your system uses different fluid and bleed port connectors, but the principle is the same: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eGclavtkoIg.html
@@ribblevalleycyclist it was the absence of DOT in my tool cabinet that stopped me and an impending extended work trip to Adelaide in a week! Do you have a video for sorting out a SRAM Red AXS front mech? That thing likes to throw the chain for fun...
@bennp2000 @bennp2000 Don’t have anything on SRAM front mech, don’t see many of them. Front dropping is not always the mech though, sometimes it’s the design/shape/size of the frame. Had a Shimano one once on an extra small frame that kept doing it, even after replacing the whole mech. Had to fit a chain catcher in the end…. Felt like I was bodging the job 😕
Wish I had seen this video some weeks ago. I bled my brakes myself (done it successfully before) and it did´t work. Had to leave my bike at a LBS. They probably just did what you did here.
It's a video I've been meaning to do for ages...... Finally got it knocked out. It's one of those annoying little things, that not everyone knows about!
Is there anything that can be done for a very long bite point on shimano 105 7000? I adjusted the reach but then the brakes don't bite till very close to the bars even after bleeding.
Are you confident in the wear levels of your pads? Also, some people apply a small amount of pressure to the brake fluid using the bleed syringe. It is however a bit hit & miss, as too much pressure applies the brakes.
@@ribblevalleycyclist Hey, so I just changed my pads for an upcoming trip to the mountains. By no means were the old pads near the replace point but after the replacement there is a definite change to the bite point. I thought these calipers were self adjusting and would advance with pad wear, is that not the case? For now anyway I've got the reach adjusted where I like.
They claim to be ‘Self Adjusting’ but I can’t see how they can be. Burping the system with the pads in situ can sometimes help with clearance, as can the pressure trick. Anyway, glad you’re sorted
I face the same issue even with brand new levers, calipers and pads of 105 / 7000 series 😢 Brake power is dangerously low. I'm afraid that adding more fluid to the system will cause disk scraping.
Can probably fudge (adjust) freestroke by manually increasing/decreasing the brake pad gap and then bleeding. It can be tricky to get right, but it should work if you get the spacing (spacer) right.
What about lateral movement of the gear shifting? Getting tired of having to move my wrist to extreme positions just to shift gears….albeit I’m using cable 105 and Ultegra.
I would recommend that you are confident your system is set up correctly before tying this. Saying that though, trying this won’t do any harm. If you know how to bleed brakes, and you have the tools, then I would recommend it. This video is worth watching, it’s about brake bleeding ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eGclavtkoIg.htmlsi=7XKrKUetsifdVip1
Both 105 and Ultegra offer levers for people with smaller hands, thus offering more reach adjustment on the levers. upto 15mm on the 105. BL-R7020/7025 ecc BL-R8020 bla bla bla.....
