You explain very well, TY. I was told to keep the buffer off of ridges/peak, you went over them easily. Methinks I should not worry but I won't bear down on them.
Hi, yes, unless you are spending a lot of time directly on the edges, you won't have a problem. The difference was that I was using a dual action polisher (known as DA), these are much kinder to the paint but slower to polish. I still didn't dwell on the edges for too long but the DA allows you to go over edges etc to get a more even polish. cheers, Phil
Appreciate you saying the American equivalents. Nice presentation. I was nervous about polishing my car, but I'm more confident having watched your video.
Sounds good! Thanks for the comment, glad you like the British & American English. I'm dual nationality and my two biggest viewing regions are the UK & the USA! Cheers, Phil
Hi, that's interesting! Just a quick question for you. When you touch in, do you just use a basecoat / colour paint pen or do you use a clear coat as well? I've even seen some people put a little bit of clear into the base, so that it's a one time application. I've tried a few different methods but always interested to hear what others do. Cheers, Phil
I have since moved back to the U.S. to the state of Alabama. My wife is Scottish so we travel back and forth a good bit. Take care. Keep the great vid's coming. @@ReviveMyRide
So well explained. Much appreciate your style and approach. Looks like the Way Joy polishers are no longer available in the US. Any other suggestions? Also how many watts/RPM etc? I'd be happy to use a referral link if you update it to support the channel.
Hi @philippelevy1836 glad you liked the vid and thanks for letting me know the link wasn't working! I went and looked and picked out a different machine. Basically, what I'm recommending is the most inexpensive dual action machine that gets good reviews and has variable speed. The machine I use (Draper but doesn't seem to be available in North America) is 650W, so anything around there or above is good. Regarding rpm, I never use it on full speed because it throws the compound off of the pad, you need speed control primarily to make sure you can set it low enough. Usually this means the machine has speed increments of between 1000rpm & 4500rpm. Anyway, here is the machine I picked but please there's no pressure to buy it if you see a different machine you like better or want to buy elsewhere! amzn.to/3xQoVj9 please note, this machine is a little larger than the one I use, so if you decide to buy SPTA pads to go with it, you need the bigger set, they are a little over size to ensure the backing plate doesn't contact the paint during use amzn.to/4dpzg6b Good luck with it! Thanks, Phil
Well, I use the mediums more than anything else but theoretically, if you were using a heavy cut compound (proceed with caution!) to work the paint surface quite hard then you would use the hard pad. Conversely, if you were using a fine compound because you were after the ultimate mirror shine in your paint, then you would use the soft pad. I just don’t try to get (and maintain) my paint to that level. Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
Thanks Mick, I didn't know you watched my videos! If you want to borrow a dual action polisher or pop round and we'll do the scratches sometime, just drop me a message on FB or Messenger! 👍
Hey mate, in this story im bit confused with: scratch that doesnt go into basecoat, is a scratch in clear coat as i understand - so buffing it basically fills that concave with compound removing the scratch? Does wax go on top of clearcoat? can you spray clear coat after the process instead of wax to ''seal'' the work? In what event do you sand down the surface before buffing. Thanks for video
Hi, yes, I meant a scratch in the clear coat. When you buff, you remove a small layer of clear coat from the surrounding areas (not from the bottom of the scratch). Once they reach the same level, the scratch is gone. Yes, you seal the clear coat with wax at the very end to help protect it from the elements. No, you wouldn't want to spray more clear coat and shouldn't need to. Sanding is when you want to remove a lot of material quickly, for example if you have a very deep scratch in the clear coat but it still doesn't go through to the base coat. That is another topic and video entirely and I would proceed with caution and do lots of research before attempting this. Thanks, Phil
@@ericleach7074 hi, T-cut is very abrasive as it is primarily designed to be used by hand. I think you are better buying a polishing compound if you are planning to machine polish. If you are removing oxidisation and freshening up your paint by hand, T-cut is ok. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
It depends on if the black you’re seeing is on the surface or if it’s a deeper scratch (it might be the primer you are seeing). You need to do the fingernail check. Drag your fingernail across it, if you can barely feel it, then the black is on the surface and should buff out. If the scratch feels really deep, then you may need to touch it in with white paint before buffing back. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
This man is a novice detailer. Do not follow his advice. That it way too much polish and will not break down and perform as designed to. And no one uses leather chamois anymore, unless you want to scratch your paint. RU-vid is a minefield of really bad advice.
Thanks for your comment but this worked perfectly for me and will for others too! And the video is aimed at the beginner who doesn’t have or want to buy two different machines and 5 different compounds. Cheers, Phil
@@devilsden2283 I mean, maybe a party pooper.. but the truth gets poopy sometimes. However, too much polish won’t hurt the vehicle, but you’ll get slower and wasteful results. Straight facts about the chamois, they are diarrhea for paint.. they put the pooper in party pooper. If you know what I’m saying!
