a little trick to help keep rear main seal from leaking, make sure its not sitting flush with the bottom of block, you don't want the seals mating surface inline with the block and caps mating surface,
Could you explain this in more laymen terms and what you mean by it sitting flush? I think I’ve heard of this before but not too sure what I was looking at. Thanks
You can but engine building is an art, there is a million things you can measure and triple check everything. I just have to trust the bearing manufacturer on that one. Will do! Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros lmao what an excuse hopefully you tell the same to a customer when their engine blows haha,,, why even make a video half ass building. no crank shaft endplay check, no plastigage to bearings, no oil on threads for main bolts, why take time to make a video when you dont even know what your doing really.
I'll have to figure out how they did the main seal on a 365 cadillac, but good to see how it is done in a much newer engine. Yea, I found a huge goober of RTV during the engine tear down.
Out of curiosity, how long did this motor survive? I’m thinking a couple hundred miles given the fact that you didn’t seat the thrust bearing, check crankshaft endplay or double check oil clearances.
Haven't you seen any of his other 2 car pros series? I'm sure it runs amazing. I'm currently using the lm7 series to build an lq4 and its going really well. Thanks for the videos, can't wait to see a new style LT series motor someday on your channel. Just bought a gen 6 454 and now im freshening up on this series.
Simple question, I’m learning. Why did you not set your thrust bearing with a good smack before torching . Did you just not show it or did you not do it. Is it necessary?
Did it on my LS didn't do it on this build. Seems like it isn't super important but yeah you should do because it is so easy to cover that base. Thanks for watching!
I'm fallowing your series before I start, great videos. Do bearings affect performance? I want to get the most HP out of my big block but I don't know what exactly to get.. first engine I will be building.. what parts should I be looking for performance when building the engine?
Awesome to hear! Can't wait to see what your big block ends up making. Yeah I mean technically but not by a crazy amount. Just don't cheap out on bearings because you want them to last a long time and be able to handle the power and heat. I like King and Mahle bearings. Thanks so much for watching!
just pulled the motor out of my 96 GMC suburban 7.4 not sure what gen it is, Can I use your method here to do the tear down and re-build? Thanks for being so through
Yep! You sure can! Just make sure to find out what gen you have as that will differ what parts you need slightly like a 1 piece rear main instead of 2 like I have. Thanks for watching Robert!
Honestly the trickiest bit would be to pull the engine out of the Winne. The rest is super easy. Old motorhomes are a perfect source for big blocks. Thanks for watching!
So we just took 0.010 off the crank. You just get 0.010 over sized bearings. That is a pretty common thing for 454's and the cam bearings are always the stock size. Thanks for watching!
I built a 454 its all new and it fricken leaks 1 quart of oil every 80 miles. Sucks but I bought the short block from a guy on craigslist and it was all restored by a machine shop. Runs great strong motor I put that Edelbrock power package on it and its in a 64 Impala SS. I'm going to take the motor out in a few week with my uncle and look for the leak. Worse comes to worse I buy a short block for $2,500 and start swapping parts .
Before you do that check the pipe plug for the fuel pump pushrod. Sometimes machine shops forget to put that back and it can leak massively like that. Thanks for watching!
Well, Ryan seems that asking that is the million dollar question. No one seems to know or just won't tell me. Didn't think it was National Security, But I'm sure I will figure it out.
They are similar. We actually ended up getting a 4 bolt main donated to us. So we decided to build that instead of the 2 bolt. Here is a great link showing all the specs www.jegs.com/tech-articles/bbc-engine-specs.html Thanks for watching!
I'm just guessing, I think he is trusting the machine shop to have checked tolerances. The block was line bored and the crank grinded... 🤔.. That may require fatter bearings...
You can plastiguage it if you like but in my experience it's usually just right but if it's not it's either too tight or too loose and you can tell really easy by spinning it. Thanks for watching!
No offense meant, it’s your engine, but you didn’t plastigauge the crank bearings or offset the rear main seal or use a good assembly lube. Engine oil just doesn’t cut it. Plus you used so little of it on your bearings, I bet their already scarred a bit. You could even use STP as an assembly lube, just use a lot of it. You did use grease on your cam, that is good. As for your machine shop, you already had to send something back to them. Always Trust, but verify, always on everything.
The one I used is just the standard one rated for 2000 pounds. Our big block is no where near 2000 pounds or even 1000 pounds so it works perfectly. Thanks for watching!
Back in the old days there was no assembly lube. You just used oil. We did use assembly lube. Hence the liberal use of Permatex Ultra slick. Sorry you missed that. Thanks for watching!
You can measure everything you want but I have been using this engine builder for 10 years or so and it has always been correct. Fun fact I use the same machine shop that Motortrend uses for Roadkill. Thanks for watching Robert!
