We need MORE Accessibility builds. Being CPACC certified, I find home builders, especially new developments, are missing out on features for accessibility needs.
@@xoxo2008oxox imho most US citizens without disabilities do not want to envision their inevitable diminished health. We all know it's going to happen but no one builds for it unless you've got a smart client/architect/GC/sub.
Matt, I have a son who works at Schluter and they make some of the best stuff in the world. Will definitely be using their systems in my new home build.
Matt: note the Schluter Ditra Heat is not just meter tested for continuity, but for resistance. I have done the Schluter floors and they are worth every penny of investment and performance.
It's funny that you have a video sponsored by Schluter right after I just did their trade show booth on Coverings‐22. Love their lineup of products. Great guys to work with as well. Sebastian was kind enough to go over my floor plans from my architect, and discuss how best to tackle my future project.
The Kerapoxy is amazing to work with. No sealing, no color loss, keeps a bright finish (instead of dull), no haze to clean up. Yes, it's a lot more expensive, but the labour savings present & future, all for a MUCH better product, make it an absolute slam dunk.
We replaced a curbless shower we had installed 8 years ago. The tiles had cracked and water leaked into the ceiling below. The linear drain also flexed and water flowed under it too. We ripped it all out and retiled with a glass wall (the owner said the water tended to drench the entire room) and new wire for the heated tile floor by the tub and vanity.
In 1975, New York City, We built our loft condo with a large walk-in, two-head-shower. By code we installed a molded in place lead shower pan that covered the floor and ran up onto the walls. ~~~~~ EDIT: But, I sure do like that Schluter system and wish there was something like that back in the day.
Looks great Matt! I’m installing a Schluter steam shower with Ditra heat. It looks like They recommend covering the Ditra heat with the Kerdi Membrane. I’m not sure if I saw that in the video. Looks like to waterproof the floor the entire floor could have been covered with Kerdi Membrane. Love the bathroom! Great video! Thanks
I have done 3 different shower systems in houses I have lived in 15 years. Two of them were done the "old way," and every one of them leaked. Metal pans, rubber membranes, you name it. The last one I did 18 months ago, I went to the Schutler dealer and asked for a referral for their best Schluter / tile guy and he did a killer job. The install was 2x faster than the old way and far less breakpoints where things can go wrong. Sure "it all depends on the installer" but when building, if you can eliminate human error points you are much better off.
@@zbeshears6945 Yeah that is what all tile guys say when I question them on their process and why they are doing it the way we do. [puffs up] "I have been doing it this way for 30 years!". It isn't that it doesn't work, the point is there are many, many more failure points. It's a math / risk game.
@@royalfamilyhomes5675 Find out who the local Schluter dealer is and go ask them who is buying the most supplies from them. You will run into resistance if you go to any tile guy - most of them laugh when you want to try a new method or material. I was tired of the stupidity and callbacks of failed shower systems.
@@crabkilla I don’t puff up when I say it. I have showers I’ve done the same way for almost 20 years and have never had a call back, my business number has been the same since 2006. I’ve been back in many of these homes for other work. Absolutely there’s 9 ways to skin a cat, and I have no issues with schluter systems. My way works, it’s way cheaper than the orange system when it comes to standard showers. Heated floors is a different story. From your other replies it seems you e just had bad tile setters, yes Schluter works hard to justify that extra cost though for a shower install… others here won’t run into resistance and Schluter isn’t even that “new” lol you sound like one of those pretentious homeowners who’s pays a lot of money for other people to do work for you, but you know a lot now because of it lmao
Great video on, thanks! I'd love to see a video on how to detail the Kerdi to drywall transitions at the shower edges. Just getting started with the Schluter system and would really appreciate some best practices
So do have to still drop your floor in order for it to be flush with existing floor or can you can lay everything on top of the original floor and just tile the whole restroom
Matt, have you ever heard of or used Wedi shower system before? They’re awesome. One cool thing is that all of their foam is closed cell, so you don’t need any kind of membrane to go over The board. Also, the warranty they offer in amazing. You’ve got an awesome shower!
Done wedi for 12 years, had too many failures to count. Been doing schluter for the last five years, not one failure yet. I do about 50-75 showers a year.
@suspicionofdeceit The floor to wall transition. That joint is only sealed by a bead of Wedi branded caulk. Schluter is different, with an actual 5 inch wide flashing. Wedi now carries the similar product, but then you're doing double the work. Not to mention double the price.
Daniel Lindstrom - interesting you’ve had failures with that. Would you put any backers in the stud cavities so the sealant wouldn’t ooze out? Or maybe didn’t compress the sealant? I’m sure I haven’t done near as many showers as you, but I haven’t had one issue with that joint, much less any other joints with Wedi system. I see your point with the Schluter banding, but you are Imbedding their fabric in thinset, which is the main reason for wet studs in the corners of their showers, cause the water seeps thru that thinset that’s holding the fabric. Whereas the Wedi banding in imbedded in their 620 waterproof sealent.
Cons of epoxy grout no sales person will tell you but everyone should know- 1) all epoxy grouts will yellow over time, it’s the nature of the materials it’s made of, so a white grout will not necessarily stay that way for the life of the installation. 2) epoxy will Always leave a reside on top, which cannot be completely removed even with haze removers, this is very apparent on surfaces that have strong light hitting at an angle which will show a variation in sheen over the tile if it is not buffed and blended while applying the epoxy. 3) not easy, if not impossible to make repairs, a floor that needs to have a chipped or cracked tile replaced (through normal wear and house movement) is easily repaired with typical grouts, but epoxy is extremely difficult to cut though in an acceptable way to allow removal, replacement and reintegration within the whole, typical grouts allow a fairly seamless reintegration into the existing surface (no one wants to think about repairs but they do happen and should be respectfully planned for) 4) they still trap dirt, there is an aggregate inside of epoxy grouts just like every other grout and it will trap dirt because it’s basically like a price of sandpaper, dirt will Always get stuck between the grains and will require deep scrubbing to get cleaned properly ( epoxy will not stain, and this is true but it’s been a very rare instance when I’ve encountered properly stained grout and with cementitious grouts stains can be dealt with by either easily removing that grout section and replacing or even just scraping the top layer off (stained portion) and revealing an unstained grout underneath) 20 years tile experience, I’ve seen and fixed a lot through the years and just want people to be aware of what I’ve never heard sales people tell customers 5) last point, epoxy is much more expensive to do and that gives sales an incentive to push it, even though for the above reasons it may not be the best solution. Sorry Matt, don’t mean to offend
Preparation is always the biggest part of the job. With out making the preparation as close to 100% perfect as possible anything done after that will look cheap and will never last.
Love the practical example of Schluter's system which we wanted in our London flat but it was impossible to fine anyone certified/trained by Schluter to actually do it.
Beware: I bullheadedly failed to understand what my local Schluter representative was trying to kindly tell me… until I attended a Schluter workshop. Schluter will not recommend anyone that attended their workshops or anyone in general. They do not “certify” anyone either. It doesn’t matter who attends these workshops or how well they did in their mock ups for the hands-on training because everyone leaving there will get a “certification of participation”. The caliber and quality of work I saw there… (or the lack there of) was surprising and eye opening. One well established tile company had some of the worst install among the groups and self awarded themselves 1st prize on their mock up. I stood there as I questioned them on some of their application with the instructor standing in the background to the side… and they told me their installation was just fine despite it being contrary to the demonstration that was just shown to us. I glanced over at the instructor who saw just enough of what had happened to exchange some looks and semi eye rolls. When I walked over to the instructor to question and clarify what had just happened then he handled himself professionally and chose his words carefully as he did not say anything disparaging about the questionable work that they self awarded themselves first price for with a marker on their installation. The unfortunate reality that I finally realized that I was too bullheaded to accept originally was just because someone attended these phenomenal workshops does not mean that they are of a quality and caliber installer to do the work that you are looking for. My experience proved to me that I could not find a single company in my local area that provided any skill or standard that I was looking for. Even in the Schluter workshops. There were quality companies that attended and had good skills but they were the minority and they were not in my area… sad to say. Networking is an important part of business and I was hopeful to make some connections. I got a great experience out of the workshops and a few very important lesson too. I am still looking for a quality installer and the closest I’ve come to is a contractor that is just a months away from retiring. Darn. I hope this helps!
Great video again! I use schluter kirdi membrane for showers, but I am not sold on the schluter wall boards over cement board. I know cement board is a pain and mess to cut, but that stuff is near indestructible. But I might give it a try eventually. So awesome you ran the schluter heat onto your bench, they are always COLD. Thanks for the vid.
I have had the opportunity to work with the Kerdi boards and they are awesome! The application is easy and building structures with them is not a problem. The Schluter free workshops were phenomenal at teaching the ins and outs of how to properly install their product and the legal standards in the TCNA handbook. I hope this helps!
Matt, as a high performance builder, I know you're interested in energy efficiency. Did you include any electric power monitoring in your house? I'm only curious because that electric resistance floor heating make me wince.
I would imagine since it's only heating the floor only when you're in there, it wouldn't use much energy in the grand scheme of things. Maybe a hundred watt hours a day?
This video comes at a great time! After watching NSBuilders video last year about a walk in shower i decided to reno my bathroom this summer. Deffinittely using the Schluter system , anyone know if they make a shower niche for a 2x6 frame?? I am going to frame a 2x6 wall so i can have a niche with more depth.
Love the shluter system but imo the dirta system is next level, hang the light foam panels just the same but instead of thinsetting the seams and taping you just bondo knife on their caulk product over the fasteners and seams just like zip 2.0.
That sounds like a better system. Unless someone can correct me, my understanding is that thinset is not fully waterproof which kinda negate the whole system
@@gclement7716 idk I've seen tests and it appears to be waterproof with the thinset but if you're concerned get some red guard and roll it over the top I'd go as far to day you could make a tile bathtub in your house
@@gclement7716 Thinset itself is not waterproof, but the molecular bond it creates when bonded to kerdi, its impossible for water to pass through. I had this same thought when I first saw it.
I had the fortune of attending free Schluter workshops. These questions and concerns are easily handled and hands-on demonstrated in person. Not only did they teach about how to install their product but the legal minimum standards from the TCNA handbook. It was a phenomenal experience and I highly recommend it to anyone. I hope this helps!
@@insecureinvestorchallenge7366 I guess I wasn't clear ive used the schluter and done pan tests and it works very well I'm more saying wedi is faster and easier and gets you to the same place so I prefer it over schluter. I also feel ditra is more difficult to make a mistake.
According to industry standards a steam shower ceiling should be pitch so that steam droplets run down the wall. The amount of slope is 2 inches per foot!
@@buildshow You mentioned the slope when you toured the finished bath a few videos back. What about the inter vapor barrier you created on your shower wall with the Schluder system?
I cringe when I think about putting a contrary voice out there… but I used to watch the Tile Coach, Isaac, and came to realize (for myself at least) then I think he intends well but I have found serious deviations in some of his videos that contrast with the manufacturer specifications. Some of these deviations and scenarios were significant enough for me to realize how easily misled I could be on how the manufacturer specified for the installation. The Tile Coach was a good step on my journey to educate myself but I am grateful for the good, bad and indifferent examples that he gave that I later learned from and compared from other resources. Especially when I learned directly from the manufacturers and went back and compared what videos I had been relying on. Studying the TCNA handbook and taking a Schluter workshop was phenomenal experience. I appreciate and understand better now about vetting sources and deciding for myself. I encourage everyone to do the same. I don’t want people to take my word for it. Check it out for themselves. I hope this is taken with as much of the polite critique and feedback intended from my experience. Thank you!
sure would like 2 c how you waterproofed the inside (from floor to wall) of those pocket door walls. I mean if (God forbid) there was a flood & some how water found a spot to level out inside the pocket wall could u keep it from wicking up (inside)? my point is could water get inside those walls?
I’m catching up on some videos but I have a critique… I was watching closely on the decoupling membrane for directional troweling. Looks like the directional troweling could use some work. RU-vid video, “Trowel and Error” by the TCNA is awesome. I hope this helps!
Nello, remember that Schluter is the sponsor of this video. I don't think that Matt paid "full retail" for that drain. Nothing wrong with that but keep that in perspective. Still if I was going to "splurge" on anything for the shower it would be a linear drain; all of the rest of the Schluter products I would consider mandatory.
Not true. Retail cost on the largest line drain schluter offers is 539 bucks. If you are an installer and have an account at a supplier, you would likely get 30-40% off that price.
@@daniellindstrom9002 nahh...ive put in lots of showers and still can't find someone pay that much more for a drain. it's tough to get them to pay 74 for just the drain adapter. we never get that big a a discount either, and i've shopped lots of different places. tough to price it as well when you can check prices on their website
Noticed the pocket doors. Can you do an episode about them. Most are flimsy and have terrible air gaps and no sound blocking. Would be nice if you could discuss those issues.
I couldn't agree more, mud pan showers are old tech. Membrane right under the tile means the mud never should get wet to start with. The tile looks fantastic!
I'm a laymen not a builder. Could someone explain why "mud set" shower pans get wet? I thought the tile used would be waterproof so no water would get below it. Obviously something I don't understand.
I used to live in hotels as I traveled around Texas for my job. Typically we would be there for weeks to months, but sometimes years. Invariably the guy in our crew who got the room with the curbless shower would ask for another room, because the bathroom floor always got wet during the shower.
When we were married in the 90's we were in Denmark and the hotel room had this setup. Just had a long handled wide squeegee for after showers and that was that.
I'm about to have a bathroom renovation. Could someone explain why "mud set" shower pans get wet? I thought the tile used would be waterproof so no water would get below it. Obviously something I don't understand.
Awesome video! Not sure i like the linear drains?!! With such low flow into drain it must build up gunk and be a cleaning nightmare! Square drain with hair strainer still seems like a win to me. Just my two cents. 🤔
Hey Matt, what is the total finished install height of tile over ditra heat? As you mentioned in your video about the 3/4 hardwoods, I have the same scenario and am wanting to install tile flush. What tile height would I need? I can't find anything in schluter documentation on thinset heights. Thanks!
@@JeffBeagley I recommend you talk to a Schluter representative. Their customer service is exceptional and they can custom answer questions like this. BTW: I do not work for Schluter. I have attended their free workshops and learned allot! I hope this helps.
This is slab on grade construction and I have a slab top insulation detail so my subfloor is up 3”. But yes you’ll need to account for that on your joists
Just looking at the cost of Kerdi-board, it's about $115 per 4x8 sheet at the blue and orange stores. Durock and hardibacker are both around 1/8th the cost per sq ft. I'm not understanding how polystyrene with a water/vapor barrier is better.
Was that drain assembly pvc? They are still using that stainless drain with a no hub connector on it, are they? That held watertight by a couple hose clamps.😐 I have been using custom pvc ones that are continuously solvent bonded(glued) all the way fro the drain down and out into the tap by the street. Hose clamps are janky and halfa$$ed.
I’d like to know roughly the retail cost to the whole Schluter package featured in this video. New products are great but is it worth the additional costs?
Hey @Matt Risinger, I just got off the phone with Tile Press and they don't serve the Houston area! Boo! Do you have a recommend? We also want to incorporate the Ditra heated floor on our curbless, on-slab shower.
To answer your Schluter questions then just call or email Schluter. In my experience then their customer service has been phenomenal. I hope this helps. Thank you!
If you can get that recommendation then you struck gold! I have had to learn the hard way that even if someone shows you a “certification” that they went to a Schluter workshop then that is no guarantee of the quality and caliber of their work. The workshops are free and the quality and caliber of good installers that I observed was the minority. But everyone walking out of there would get a “certificate of participation”. Schluter will not recommend anyone for this exact reason. I stubborn headedly refused to understand what my Schluter representative was trying to politely tell me until I saw firsthand for myself. I recommend personally educating yourself so that you can spot quality workmanship to hire the correct person. At minimum Schluter has a RU-vid channel with instructional videos. I hope this helps!
I had the Schluter floor heat installed in an exterior bathroom and laundry room that were always cold in the winter. When they put the heat wire in, the installer told his helper quattro. When I read the instructions after they started tiling, I realized he should have said tres. So, the area under the washer and dryer got heat with the extra cable. It was better than it was, but putting the cable three apart would have had more uniform temperature.
When running the heater wire if there is extra it is always necessary to re-route the wire. A 2 dimple separation is minimum, if you have the newest material from Schluter. They should have re-routed the wire until it was as evenly distributed as possible, not a major issue with this system. I had to re-route about three times to get it just right, but the floor beside the toilet where bare feet sit is warm. :-) Sadly I didn't buy a long enough cable to heat the shower floor. :-(
@@CitEnthusiast I have to commend you for your knowledge. I have noticed your comment reply to someone else and you seem to be pretty spot on. I’m impressed. Thank you for your knowledge!
I hope everyone reads their local codes before going this route. This will not fly everywhere because of the drop from the entrance to the drain. UPC says that the entrance to the top of the drain must be a 2" difference. This is the reason most showers have a dam and aren't curbless because of the extra work required for the curbless system. UPC, Section 411.6 - Last I checked Austin uses UPC. Good luck!
I don't understand heated coils inside the shower floors. As shower water is already hot and I don't see if we feel the heat of the floor. Heat on the bathroom floor outside the shower floor makes more sense.
I thought the Schluter install guide said to run 2 separate cables when doing a heated shower. One for the shower and one for other areas? Also thought you were meant to install 2 thermostat sensor wires in case one fails.
Yes they recommend a separate cable for the shower. One thermostat can run two cables as long as the overall amp draw is within the rating of the unit.
@@theinfernalcraftsman I am happily impressed with at least two other people that seem to be giving intelligent replies like this regarding Schluter installations. It is a pleasure and relief to see Thank you!
Are linear shower drains a current fad? Yes Are there still potential water-proofing issues with them? Yes Will they become timeless and retain their popularity? Nope
One point. If you have a heated shower floor. Will that cause the water in the drain to evaporate, meaning harmful gaes and smells will enter the bathroom.
No. Heat stops short of the drain body and the p-trap is down several inches. Also the heater has a t-stat with a timer so it’s running only a short time each night.
So, we see the already installed linear drain and shower floor, but NOT how to install the drain and floor. Not quite A to Z, unless I am missing something?
My understanding is that for your ditra heat floor area to be "waterproof" as you keep saying in the video, that you'd need to use Bonded waterproofing and vapor-retardant membrane OVER your heated wire install, to truly be considered waterproof. It seems like you aren't fully waterproof on the floor, but only at the edges since you go Subfloor/ditra/wire/thinset/tile.
Like I said in my post Schluter requires the ditra heat to go down first and then be covered with Kerdi but it seems the commenters haven't read Schluters install info or taken their classes. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2Ui26uQbJjo.html
@@hu5tle- No worries, who told you that ditra itself was not waterproof? We use ditra on exterior applications because of that very reason. You definitely have to do the seams with kerdi band however. And like you said, in a shower that is heated, schluter wants you to go over the ditra heat and wires with kerdi membrane. This is just for the wires I assume. The ditra itself however is waterproof.
Resistance heat is 100% efficient. Every kilowatt is converted to heat. Many people are opting for all-electric appliances and HVAC in anticipation of using more solar and wind in the years ahead. However, in some places where natural gas is cheap, some may opt for hydronic heat--which is less efficient, but may be cheaper to run.
@@audiobrad99 yeah, so most expensive to use is currently most accurate. He loves the heat pump heaters. I was looking at one the other day that claimed over 500% efficiency in a certain condition.
It’s serving a different purpose than what you’d use for your main heat. It is drying out your tile, you want it to warm quickly, and you only want it in limited areas. It also has a low profile to go under your tile without building up too high. Sure using electric resistance heat for your whole house wouldn’t be ideal, but it still has a few uses like this.
@@timgleason2527 it probably can get much hotter than water allowing for quicker heating times. That is an advantage. I thought it was mostly used in remodels where you can't plan for the thickness as easily, or maybe don't even really have the height to lose.
Your climate zone does not require a interior vapor barrier. But essentially by sealing that wall off with schleder you have created a wall that cannot dry to the inside. What's going to happen to that wall cavity?
What I took from this was the plumber says that he sees days of install using that system but then but I guarantee you he doesn’t charge you a couple of days less of work he charges you the same amount
Kerdiboard sucks. The open cell foam isn't waterproof, and the mortar used to seam the lapping membrane isn't waterproof either. Water WILL mitigate behind the band. I prefer Hydroblok or even Hydroban shower systems. Both wall boards are 100% waterproof. Hydronblok is a bit faster installation because there's no build-up from the overlapping band with Schluter or Hydroban.
Don't use linear drains folks. They stink and are nasty. It's a troth with a tiny hole in the middle. Its very very unsanitary. Looks nice but is a bad idea. I've had countless ppl say thats their biggest regret. A few keep a spray bottle of bleach in the shower to spray in the drain to keep it more sanitary and clean. I'm doing my bathroom now with the ditra heat and shluter products. I prefer goboard over kerdi board. The kerdi membrane is great but the board not so much. I'll even put the membrane over the goboard for 2x the water proofing.
Have you taken a free Schluter workshop? 🤔… I’m just saying… might be nice and helpful to see if there’s something that can help you with the issues that you are finding. 😌 (Personally the experience was phenomenal and they teach from the TCNA handbook the legal standards to the industry.) I hope this comment is taken with the well meaning intent. I wish you well, I hope people will check this out and decide for themselves. Thank you!
This is mostly an advertisement for fancy Schluter products, not how to build a curbless shower. Typical from Risinger. If you're doing a schluter shower here are my DIYer thoughts having done one myself: 1. Do not put the thermostat exposed on the wall. It makes a VERY LOUD CLICK when it turns on and off, and you'll almost never touch it, so mount it inside a cabinet/vanity. Trust me. 2. The linear drains get very clogged very quickly, so think hard before you install. They look nice but aren't as functional as regular drains. And make sure you put the drain at the back of the shower, not at the threshold, because a clogged drain at the threshold will result in a flooded bathroom. Clogged drain at the back just makes a puddle. And dont lose the little key to get the linear drain out. 3. Making the recess for the slope in the shower is the biggest pain in the ass of the whole project. Risinger glosses over it, but the hardest part is making your levels work out nicely. If you get through all those headaches, they do look nice. Good luck.
Do you say the same thing about the wood framing, furniture, cabinets, window coverings, carpet, etc? I could go on. Once its covered in mortar and tile/stone it'll take fire a while to reach it. Unlike all the other things just mentioned.
@@billjohnson7347 i am so sorry 1st off i wasn't asking you sir. 2nd it's not IGNORANT if asked in an honest question. Besides i didn't originally ask this question... STAR TILE DID.... SO CALL HIM IGNORANT IF YOU LIKE. Since you seem to know it all. . Ohh and yes i know material can burn, im sure you saw the HOME DEPOT fire recently. And yet that building has a complete fire extinguisher system and yet it still burned down. Again i am truly sorry for even asking a question because clearly i have ruffled feathers. If me asking a simple question offends you then BLOCK ME.... do you own RU-vid or this person's page if yes my sincerest apologize... Too many keyboard commando's and no one remembers they were once inexperienced too... My 3rd grade teacher once said if you don't have anything nice to say, DON'T SAY ANYTHING AT ALL... sadly we didn't all have the same 3rd grade teacher...💯
@@RestoreITdontJunkIT Thankfully we didn't have the same third grade teacher. Mine taught us to think before opening our mouths. Schluter products are flammable. Just like all the other products I mentioned before. They're not going to spontaneously combust. I assume you drive a gasoline powered vehicle. Have you asked the oil industry to produce gas that isn't flammable? Those products will get you in trouble long before anything from Schluter does. You haven't ruffled any feathers. You threw out a comment and then got upset when you were called out on its ignorance. Good day Sir.
