I was just thinking about your video the other day and wanted to drop by to say I really miss your fiddle making videos. They were always so great... I hope you are still making and would love to see some new ones! Thanks!!
Awesome video! The detail you've been going into is incredible. I havent seen another youtuber show how to mark out the back graduations, make the fishtail template, and make the projection gauge. Thank you for these fantastic videos!
Thankyou, Logan. I have tried to be fairly thorough and REALLY show how it's done. I think some are afraid to have the "secrets" leak out. The fiddle has been such a blessing to me, I hope others can join in and leave a legacy behind in the form of a handmade instrument.
Thanks, Papa! Me too! I'm planning on varnish instead of Shellac. I have loved the look of shellac and how organic it is. I think varnish will be slightly warmer because it is softer. We'll see!!
Yeah... kids nowadays have it so easy. I had to learn everything the hard way. It's called "going to the library" and "trial and error" Just learning an instrument...I had to actually learn to read sheet music! Imagine that! -- seems like no one wants to put in the effort any more! Thank you. Sometimes I think the same thing about the RU-vid videos. It helps to see something done. I like to understand the "why" behind the "how".
Will build from scratch soon as well, just getting myself familiar with woods and small carving... and it is scary, I already got some few cuts with chisels. But I am gaining more confidence. Thank you very much, you made the approach in violin building less frightening... my next project will be on building from scratch.
Glad you're getting more comfortable with building! Yes--- be careful! I have been cut many times! That's what super glue is for! (It was actually designed for that during the Vietnam war)
Where possible clamp the wood down to your bench and get both hands behind the chisel and cut away from yourself . That way if you slip you can’t possibly cut your self. That was one of the first things drummed into me as a very young apprentice cabinet maker. Plus razor sharp tools , your more likely to slip with a blunt tool because you’ll be pushing harder, when sharp you will need less pressure or force. Spend time learning to sharpen your tools. Good luck it’s just a matter of taking your time. 👍👍👍👍👍
@@bluehoo0 Thank you! I'll keep that in mind, As of now all I can do is mimick how mr.Mangum work. I am new at this and still a fool with tools. And right now am studying how to sharpen my chisels. The only thing sharp in my shop are the xacto knives... and I bet they aren't sharp anymore for a pro, but deadly sharp for me :)
@@grandpasmountain Thank you sir.Mangum, as of now I will mimic and follow your steps. I bet when I finally make one from scratch, I will learn how to work around with tools :) Thank you and God bless you and Family.
@@cadenzachambermusic7065 I should make a little video on how to get razor sharp tools very easily! It is not rocket science. It's just a very sharp corner!
So excited for the finishing touches(aha get it)! Be careful with your fingers. A while ago, someone I knew accidentally chopped off his pinky with a log splitter. Scary stuff :|
I found a problem with your videos...... I have a hard time stopping watching them! Everyone one of them builds my anticipation of building my first fiddle/violin.
Always fabulous Jon. Sorry to see that finger. Not gonna bore you with scary woodworking stories but I have a few. Been a hobbiest for (OMG...just did the mental math) 40 plus years and still have all my fingers. Knock on wood. LOL. So excited to hear how it's gonna sound. Can you tell at this stage by tapping it or any other predictor as to whether it will have a nice resonance?
Thankyou, Linton. Yes....so many woodworkers missing fingertips! I severed 2 fingers when I was young on my right hand. Missing tendons and artery in 1 and semi-numb. I was going to change out the insert on the bandsaw with a new one I made, and didn't wait for the blade to stop as I reached under to push the insert up and got caught when the blade grabbed my finger and jammed it into the blade guide, stopping the blade. It's pretty deep, but I poured the glue on it and held it together. No...I can't tell anything. The 2 plates must work in harmony and need the soundpost installed. I think it's gonna be good-- The wood changes molecularly when it is used to produce sound and will change alot within the first 20-30 minutes. Can't wait to hear it!
Jon, you almost confused me with comment about tightbond at the 3:10 minute point. I went back and reviewed part 7 and sure enough you had used hide glue for the plate. So I realized that you must be talking about gluing the purfling and sure enough in part 4 that is what you used. Sorry for questioning you. Never doubted... another great video.
What do you think about making tailpiece, fingerboard and pegs. In every video about fiddle/violin making they were bought from the store. I was wondering if I could make all of the parts myself.
Of course you can! I have seen some amazing hand carved chin rests that were so interesting to look at. The tailpiece is not difficult to carve at all. Usually pegs are done on a small wood lathe....maybe something could be rigged up in a drill chuck... I have been thinking about doing a set myself in the near future. Thanks!!
You made me think of the #1 question I have been asked by non-fiddle/violin players. They look over an instrument that I have labored over for over a month and point to the contest and say, "So, did you make this?" ....and I want to scream, haha. Not one person has ever noticed the purfling or scroll!
this video could only be better if the sound would not be so harsh, it almost hurts my ears :( but damn, this is one of the best videos ive seen so far!!
👍👍👍👍👍 I’m looking forward to hearing it, is there a particular brand of strings you prefer? Are birthday congratulations in order? I see a card in the background.
Me, too! I really like Pirastro Tonics strings. They have a new "formula" and a great e string. They used to be the standard before everyone became obsessed with Dominants. I get them for $25 a set on ebay.
Thanks again, John. Lots of great detail. I’m a ways off from this stage as I am just now putting the final taper on my 2 piece mold (yes, the 2 piece is cheating a little). I am curious at about the 6 minute point how you marked 27.1 mm with a 0.5mm mechanical pencil though. Was is one of the “leave the line” or “cut the line” kind of marks? If so, your eyes are in great shape. I don’t think I can even see a tenth of a mm, much less mark and cut one!!!
Yeah -- it's a matter of leaving the line. The traditional English measuring system is more accurate than the metric system. The smallest increment is 1mm. We can SEE 1/64th on a ruler and it's 1/4 of a millimeter. I was just being hyper accurate! Most makers use the metric system....sooo.. I have learned to think that way. Nah-- not cheating! Use whatever mould fits you best. No rules!
I've never heard of letting the glue on the endgrain dry before final glue-up to seal the endgrain -- does this technique also apply to regular tightbond glued butt joints?
Jon, I think this one will be a very beautiful instrument. I have a theory that using sandpaper on the major surfaces of the plates will clog the cellular structure of the wood grain and suppress the vibrancy of the instrument, while cutting the wood with very sharp planes and scrapers will leave the grain less damaged and will result in a more dynamic sound. What would your opinion be?
I know that to be a fact....to a point. Somewhere, I have pictures of the wood under a microscope. Carleen Hutchins was a big proponent of avoiding sandpaper. Does it have an effect on tone? No. Is it better than finishing with 600 grit sandpaper... I am doubtful--at least as far as my eye can see. Scraping is traditional-- and gives us a bond with our ancestors and brothers in the trade. Definitely a much smoother finish over all. I personally prefer it as well as top notch cabinet makers.
Jon Mangum I agree with a well sharpened scraper you can achieve a much smoother finish. Almost silk like. Sandpaper has it’s uses but used with care, depending on what you’re making.
The nut has the same 42mm radius as the fingerbooard, so just used my fingerboard radius template a little over 1mm up. Thanks! Just applied more superglue, haha.
@@grandpasmountain ah that makes sense. Again thank you for these videos. So far I have my corner blocks cut, glued to my mold and shaped and tonight I did my first tests of my bending rig that is similar to yours but I'm using a handheld torch as a heat source. It worked pretty great!
@@jamessmith4836 That is awesome! One Master Luthier who has helped me out uses a propane torch hanging by a coat hangar! I'd love to see pictures anytime you want to share!
@@grandpasmountain here it is in all of it's homespun glory photos.app.goo.gl/Te7AfKYjS1KibxA28 and here it is in action photos.app.goo.gl/bxtppWdrAeBQ7ieSA
More of the overall progress here. photos.app.goo.gl/FhwQyMnKwsnkknsA7 I'll try and update the gallery as I go. Again thank you so much for you videos.
Could you please let me know the dimensions, in milimeters, of the saddle on the tailpiece side ? The length, width and hight above the surface of the violin ?
I think my nut is too high! Could you please get back to me, is there anyway I could shave it down and not harm the fiddle? The reason I say the nut is too high is pushing on the strings I have to push so far down this is my second fiddle and the first one was not like that. I'm starting to think that this second fiddle is a much cheaper knockoff
Yes. Not a big deal to do. You can file it down, and make new grooves for the strings. At the nut, strings should be about a business card thickness away from the fingerboard.
Can't give it a Soul, until I give it vocal chords first!! ;) Once a bridge is carved and strings are holding it under tension....THEN we give it a Soul!
@@user-lz1hi6mh9z It is part of the "set up" process, so I will do it when I make a bridge, etc. I try to do things in logical steps. I am glad you asked! :)
You cut the upper part of the violin in order to attach the saddle on the tailpiece side. Why can't the saddle be attached above the upper part of the violin, without cutting it, and compensate with less hight ?
Well....I guess you could.... but it's easy to do, it anchors the saddle from moving and there is a fair amount of pressure on it....like 70 lbs, that it has to stand up against.
You make no sense. You glued the neck already, why take it back off now to varnish? Seems to me you should have done that before gluing. You couldn't play it until you put the tailpiece and bridge on, so you could string properly. It just looks silly with the vhinrest, when there is no tailpiece yet. By the way: have you ever put together a kit violin? If so, was it worth it to learn?
