I am impressed with the quality of your products, the super fast shipping as well as being regular income friendly! I am a 47 year-old mom who just wants to grow for my family in the city. Your store allows me to do this because, yes I am low income, I can not spend a fortune; buy American, buy what I need (not one million of this, kind of thing), know you have only tested quality items, and you guys are all normal! I did not see ties or junk like that! You have my loyalty because you do not put on airs of "we are so better then you". Hard to explain but you get it! Now I can build a greenhouse, my dream, to grow food almost year round in WV, at my pace as money is available to me. And my dream, which I never thought would happen since greenhouses cost no less then $2000.00 and way out of my ability, is becoming a reality because of your company! Thank you!
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I really appreciate this video as its very informative and educative. What's the disability of the PVC greenhouse and what's the thickness of the pipes?
For those of us that can't tell, are you using 3/4 inch, 1 inch, or another size? It matters because we need to know how small of a size can handle the load of a thick plastic tarp.
Hi, great stuff. I’ve bought or ordered all the connectors, but really having trouble locating slip connect PVC ground stakes, 1/2”. So far, all seem to be a threaded end, when I can find them at all. Thanks!
Can anyone help me out. I live in a area that gets very windy, is there anything I can use(other than the pvc stakes) that can secure the pvc greenhouse to the ground?
Wonderful project using PVC. I love it. Now, I am trying to have a widt of 300cm, and hight of 180cm, what connctions ( 45 deg or 90 deg ) at the roof section. and the side connection to the roof? Thank you
Snap clamps are neat, but they stretch out after awhile and strong winds will pop them right off the PVC if using plastic. I learned the hard way that if you have any amount of wind in your area and are going to use plastic covering..save yourself the trouble of using wobbly PVC and snap clamps- do it right and use pressure treated wood with wiggle wire and C channels. As long as you build it using 4x4 posts cemented in the ground and cross brace the sides- you can sleep well on windy winter nights knowing you aren't going to walk outside in the morning to find your plastic up in a tree and the PVC structure in a heap with snap clamps everywhere. That said, I do still use a PVC hoophouse in an area a bit more protected from wind. Forget the gabled roof- too many cuts and joints. You want as few joints as possible. Best design I've tried is 2 10 foot 1/2" diameter PVC poles joined(glued) together with a 4way cross at the top ( "T" shape connectors on the ends). Bang a 4 foot piece of rebar two feet into the ground at 4 foot intervals on each side. Then slide one end of your (now 20 feet) 1/2" pipe over the rebar, and bend it over to the rebar piece on the other side forming an upside down U shape. Slide it all the way down to the ground. Make sure your cross connector at the top is laying the right way to make the top connections. You can put a small screw into the pipe at the bottom to help secure it to the rebar, but if you buy the right diameter rebar, it usually holds perfectly on its own. You will get a roof about 8-9 feet tall, and a width of about 6-7 feet wide in your tunnel. You can make it as long as you want (or can find plastic for) Secure (glue) each rib to each other along the top with cut sections of pipe. Make sure each is the same length in your "top spine" or it will bend the thing out of whack. Then use snap clamps to secure your shade cloth or plastic. You usually want to use the 4 foot snap clamps and cut them to size- some about 12" long and some 6". the 12" ones go at the bottoms where the pipe goes over the rebar. the 6" ones are for the curved areas. Stretching the plastic over the structure usually bends it out of shape (this is why wood is better) So don't stretch too much, just let it be a bit wonky (this is what you get with PVC) and then cut some pieces to make the ends. Close the ends when you need to trap heat, and open at least the tops if there's gonna be a sunny day. It WILL get hot in there. Be careful, becuase cooking your plants can do more damage than the cold. Don't bother with the crappy Home Depot plastic. Buy the better stuff from Greenhouse Megastore- it will last many seasons. The first time you put it on, you gotta line it all up. Before you take it off in Spring to store for the next winter, get a permanent marker and mark out the center tops. That way next time you just line it up alon the top spine and each end and you know you have it aligned before snap clamping it on.
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Thanks for the video but there is something not addressed here that is VERY important. This frame structure as it is is very flimsy and will be subject to damage in high winds. Had one built out of metal pipes that were a problem with the first storm a week later. It was bought from Amazon and called Quictent and was very flimsy in design and with the first storm a week later, it was totally destroyed. The one good thing with the PVC is that it flexes and is more forgiving but the design you are showing will also be too weak to stand up to a high wind. Need larger diameter pipes and bracing to be considered as a serious greenhouse that is worth building to last in most environments.
Please, can someone tell me how to dry-fit PVC? The fittings I have make far too tight a fit, and need to be a fraction of a millimeter wider. Would it work if I were to make vertical slits into the ends of the pipes? Anyone have any suggestions?
Yes. Depending on the weather where you are, try not to leave spaces bigger than 3' between bars. If you get snow, keep those spaces smaller and use a vertical center support if necessary. If your area gets mild weather, you can lighten it up a bit and it'll be fine. PVC is easy to cut with a hacksaw at any length you want. You don't need expensive equipment. Just the fittings.
is there something more durable than the rolls of plastic? Even the thickest stuff. In the Texas sun, those split at the fold seams in 3 months or less. It's where they fold it to fit in packaging. Even without it, 6months is the maximum before the plastic sheeting is brittle and breaks apart.
Any hardware store that sells PVC pipe will get you some of the fittings very cheap. There are some angles that they may not have, however, and then you have to buy the expensive "furniture-grade" pieces online.
@@raygrinders3918 But you buy the fitting as a 90 degree fitting not 45 degree fitting, Fittings are bought by their geometry and not how it's used. Someone goes out and buys 45 degree fittings and they won't work! But hopefully they''re smart enough to know that....but maybe not.
