This is the first in a series of videos on how I build a double cut set neck carved top guitar using templates utilizing a guide pin system. I'll walk you through the processes that I use to building guitars. Enjoy!
Great video. Thanks for sharing your skills with us. Going to watch all of them and have a try at making templates with your dowel system before starting builds myself. respect!!
I've seen his videos, he has a great system. I'm sure he could build me a few templates but I've always liked building all my own jigs and templates throughout the years. That's always been a part of the fun I have building guitars. Thanks for the comment and Thanks for watching!
It’s not a new way of doing things. When I worked at American Showster in the 80s we had similar templates that all fit together on indexing pins. You can also see that on some Fender bodies. They used to just put dowels in the holes right in the body.
@@DavidRavenMoon I was implying theft of any kind, just stating that people can buy a good template system that works on the same principle. I have some and they are great.
@Raven Moon Absolutely, that process has been around for many years. I have a couple Fenders and G&L's made that way. Can see those plugs through the transparent fimishes.
I did build it. Got the table top, roller and bearings from Stockroom supply in Canada. Bought a motor, switch and link belt and built the box. There is a baffle inside that guides the dust to the dust collection fitting. Thanks for watching!
You should lower the blade guide on the band saw closer to the work. That stops the blade from wandering. Also a wider blade would make a nice straight cut. I do this type of cut with a 1/2” resaw blade. On your sander, I see the back end of the table isn’t slightly raised like a jointer. Doesn’t that make a divot in the work?
Yeah, I have a 1/2" blade that bites in better at the beginning of the cut, but I was being a bit lazy and didn't want to swap it out for this one cut. There isn't any wandering with either size blade. Just the initial bite with the 1/4" blade. The guide is up to clear the clamp also. When I'm resawing 7" wide tops, the 1/2" blade with guide close to the piece is a must. The sander levels things out perfectly. Basically, this uses a hook and loop roller and sandpaper. When the roller is spinning, it creates an air space between the roller and sand paper which lifts the paper up for the cut. No divots left on the piece. Thanks for watching!
@@lesperanceguitars8381 I like many of the jigs you’ve made! The jig for the truss rod wheel is very clever. I’ve been wanting to switch to a wheel so that gives me an idea! The “wandering” thing is the deflection you got at the beginning of the cut. The blade is twisting a little. A wider blade and the blade guide lowered right over your work will prevent that. I had a 14” Delta bandsaw with the rider block (I miss that saw!). I used to cut my scarf joints the same way you are doing it. I also used to resaw tops. I had that saw tuned up really well! What I was wondering with the sander is you are removing a little material. So the way the do it on a jointer is the outfeed table is slightly higher to compensate for the material you removed. Otherwise the piece would just keep plowing across the cutter head. On a planer the piece is sitting on the platten and you remove material from the top. Obviously your sander works fine. 👍
Great videos 1 through 4, building my first set neck. How thick do you start with your neck blank? When you cut the 13 degree headstock how long is the cut from tip of head stock to the front of the nut? What thickness do you have a the front of the headstock before you flatten out the bandsaw cut on your drum sander? Last one, haha why do you make the carbon fiber rods that short?
