Welcome to my channel where everything guitar building is the theme. Here we can show our building skills, share techniques, discuss latest innovations in guitar building and just have fun talking shop.
Hey Paul, just wondering what neck angles your headstock is on Nono’s guitar. I am building a guitar with a Schaller roller bridge and will be using a Duesenberg Les Trem 2 as the stop tailpiece, what angle would you make the headstock at? Watching the whole build on this, very nice.
Around the time of that video, I was putting 13 degree angles on non trem guitars and 9 degrees on tremolo. Now, everything I do is 9 degrees. The theory was thT a tremolo needed less angle to allow less pressure on the nut so that the strings could side back and forth in the nut with less restriction or something like that. I've built quite a few guitats and just didn't notice the difference. Plus, if you build a one piece neck construction, you will use less thicker lumber. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching my series.
I'm actually using a mic, and I agree it doesn't sound all that great. I could use something better but, honestly, I usually don't even use a mic at all and I think that's better. No offense but, I'm not looking to win an academy award here. I'm a guitar builder in a work shop trying to get info out to the guitar building public, not a content creator in a studio. Anyway, thanks for the tip and Thanks for watching.
Sounds like I haven't found the right mic for the job. Any suggestions from yourself or anyone else out there of where I can get a good mic system without breaking the bank would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Hi Paul,this looks like a great tool, it looks to me that it acts as a wide jointer as well. Once I flatten out my two body pieces on my jointer and square the ends I glue it up but never seem to be able to get the joint perfectly flat, I then have to go to a local shop that has a 16” helical jointer and pay about 30.00 to flatten my two piece body blank so I can then run it through my drum sander to get the thickness right. Very expensive. I think this could replace the 8” jointer I have and possibly do more things than the jointer can do. What do you think? Regards Maurice
I agree. I've used one of these flat sanders for years and I can tell you, it will work for you. Just at theat $30 up over time, it could pay for one of these tools. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
They sell the drum sander as a kit. That's how I bought it. You get either a 18" or 24" drum, bearings, pulleys and a link belt. You can buy a top or make one. You'll need to make a box for it and there are instructions on how to do that. They sell motors or you could buy one locally. Hope this helps.
Amazing. I couldn’t imagine having to put that up every time I needed to finish, I’m in the middle of adding onto my shop bc paint booth needs too. This is Incredible work.
It's really not so bad. I just schedule the paint sessions to work for me. I've actually kept it up over a month at times and still was able to do all my routing work, ect. It works great for now. Thanks for watching!
Can you please tell me what model your DeWalt trim router is? Looking to purchase the DeWalt model DWP611 but yours looks a tad bit smaller and the perfect size for that binding channel application. Great video! Thank you!
I had a friend who was a senior master builder at Fender. He could grab a neck and radius the fretboard by hand on a belt sander. Even compound radius. He would just grab the thing and dig in on the sander. A few measurements here and there and it was done. I wouldn't believe it if I hadn't seen it. Same thing with shaping the back of the neck profile.
Thank you for the great video and advise you suggested to me from another video of yours that led me here and yes you are ansolutely right. After finding eagle abrasives/Kovax who and why would anyone ever wet sand again. Their product is great. It is absolutely superior quality and works amazing. And it really is not that expensive if you factor in the amount you get per box. If you were to purhase and other p rated paper it would be relatively the same. Plus they make starter kits that come with the sandpaper, flat thin pad and the foam sanding block for cheaper than if you bought it all separately. Thank you again. If it was not for your video I do not know if I would have found them. So glad I did. Definitly a changer.
If you do not mind me asking. When you said you use wax on any holes in the guitar. Do you fill the entire hole or line the rim or edge of the hole or do you just get it to cover the top of the opening of the whole? A demonstration video on how you do that would be great. No one covers that. It is always mentioned but not shown. Thank you.
I would use a q-tip and spread Johnsons paste wax around the wall of the potentiometer holes, making sure that a layer of wax is covering where the finish meets the top wood. Hope that makes sense. You still need to be carefully though. It's not foolproof. I don't wet sand anymore though. Take a look at my "Dry sanding vs wet sanding guitar finishes" video. You'll never have to be concerned about water getting under the finish. Thanks for watching!
@lesperanceguitars8381 thank you very much for your reply and I actually did see your video on dry sanding. Is the sandpaper you suggested the only one you can dry sand with. Obviously it is the one you recommend, but is it expensive. I really want to do a good job but I am on a tight budget. Your videos and information is always great. Going to rewatch the dry sanding one again right now. Thank you.
There are other sanding systems out there, Buflex, Tolcut, ect... You can find some Super Assilex and these other brands variety packs on Amazon Prime that will have 600,800 and 1200 grit for example. 2 sheets per. Those are a little cheaper.
All music on this video is from an amazing recording artist and L'Esperance Guitar player named Clay "NoNo" Singletary. You can find him on Instagram, Facebook and RU-vid at See7music www.youtube.com/@see7music261/videos . Thanks for watching!
I wet sanded a flying V I refinished, and eventually cracks started happening. First were the holes for the pickguard, secondly in other areas. They were minor, nevertheless they were visible.
When I drill for pickup rings, pickgaurd screws, strap buttons, ect., I always drill them after buffing and camfer them with a camfering bit. That way the screws threads never touch the finish on the edges of the holes. This keeps the cracks away. Thanks for watching!
Iya was interesting to see how you were doing the arm carve. Both with the router and the binding. I'm curious to see the color you are putting on that.
Thanks for the nice compliment. I have since stopped wet sand these days. I have a newer video on dry sanding that may interest you. You can find it on my channel. Thanks for watching!
now that's a flawless headstock. Mind if I ask, I'm about to refinish my guitar's headstock, my only concern is the sides of the headstock, any tips on how to get a nice result without having to buff off(at least not too much if must do) the sides? Thanks and Subscribed!
I use frog tape on the sides of the headstock. Tape right to the edge. This tape leaves a clean line with no bleeding. After the clearcoat is safe to slightly touch, I take the tape off. After it is cured, I sand lightly on the corners. I oil finish the sides and back of the necks so there is some fine sanding later. I hope this helps!
Cool jig - thanks for making the video. One thing to mention (in case I missed it in your video) is that the radius of the fretboard is at the level of the wood. This means the sled's radius must be greater to compensate for the distance between the sled surface and the wood. So, for example, if cutting a 12" radius, curved surface of the sled is 2" above that, the sled must be cut to a 14" radius. Is this your understanding also?
That is correct. I think I might have mentioned it In the latest video I made on an improved version. "Build a better radius jig". I moved on to using a Grizzly radius sander since. Good luck making your version and thanks for watching!
Paul, nice to meet you today at your shop with Grady, he'd mentioned to me bout your guitar services so, after talking shop with you about my two guitars (Ibanez JS-100 and acoustic Guild) I was glad making the decision for you to work on them as per our conversation. (Sunday 10-8-2023) Looking forward!
Why dont you just fit a thicker spacer on the swinging arm so you can get your neck in the centre of the arm?? There is plenty of scope to adust the height of the assembly.
Hey man I really do appreciate what you are doing!!! On the first video your desire to teach/share the knowledge you have acquired in your time building. I really thank you for that, may God bless you!
Great video mate, The jig is simple in design and looks like it works well. As someone suggested, possibly could be braced up a bit more for rigidity, but I'm sure you already know that. Cheers from the Sunshine Coast of Australia.
