For me, the ideas in ru-vid.comUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
Thanx for putting this video on, by the power of RU-vid an curiosity I've stumbled across it and went out and tried it with some pallet wood :-) and succeeded. Just a small two meter high hut. I'll be upscaling soon for a greenhouse.
I love this series of videos. Thank you for leaving in the mistakes and bloopers. It is entertaining and informative at the same time. The comments here are also good for more ideas. These videos give me hope that I can build an old fashioned Gothic Barn someday. Bless your heart
I gave you a thumbs up because of your honesty in the struggle to make these crazy things! I found your attitude to be refreshing and inspiring! I’ve been thinking of building one of these after giving up on building a geodesic dome. After watching videos, I’ve decided to use long 1X4 without knots so it will be stronger. I’ll have to see how long they are. The struggle is the fun part of learning.
I DID enjoy it! It is enormously useful, and I love learning from somebody else's mistakes instead of finding out myself! I would have turned the air blue when it fell, LOL, good no sound! Thank you, thank you!
After building a plywood sail boat, I would recommend making a scarf joint between the two pieces of plywood. The old boat builders standard is a 1x12 (for every one inch of wood depth the length is 12 inches). I did my joint with a jig and a router, using epoxy with a layer of fiberglass on each side. I know, over kill for a shed. But if this were a living space, I want all the strength I can get. I may tackle something like this, if I can get my HOA to "buy off" on it.
Great documentary! When using scavenger-type (full-thread) screws to assemble wooden frames, always pre-drill the top piece so the screw threads slip through it. That way the two pieces of wood are pulled tightly together. Unless you do this, the wood stays loosely connected and it loses the rigidity you need when framing. The other option is to use a screw that has a smooth shank below the head, like a deck screw.
Good project! I think plywood has half the plies placed perpendicular to the direction of bend which is not great. I'd definitely use furring strips with the wood fiber going along the bend. Also agree on preference of a lap joint with glue and screws.
Yeah some of it was a bit humbling and frustrating to learn, but thats half the benefit of watching somebody do something on RU-vid, learning from their mistakes so you don't have to make the same ones. I didn't want to lose that for the sake of a little pride lol
Zack, your attitude is amazing; positive, open to learning and brave enuf to be kind to naysayers. "Tips" and info from people in-the-trade, so to speak, can - as evidenced by many of your posters...be shared in a professional and respectful manner. That said - thank you so much for your time and efforts for sharing with us all. Nice job. Keep that great smile!
Danielle, it never ceases to amaze me some of the incredibly kind and encouraging people that I interact with here. Thank you so much for being just the encouragement I needed :) Your comment has had a huge effect both on my evening last night as well as my morning. Thank You!
As the song used to say, Zack; "What the World Needs Now, is Love, Sweet Love...", etc. Good strengths and FUN with you and your family's new home project!! Take care!! Danielle
Zack it would be wonderful to have someone available to teach us all this stuff but most of us don't so I appreciate your videos. Most people make mistakes I know I've made plenty on my projects but each time you make a mistake you know you won't do it twice. Not bragging here, but I've managed to go from slinging a paint brush to building my own home from the ground up. And even with all my experience I am still learning new and better ways to do things and visit RU-vid regularly to steal good ideas.
Thanks Bandit, I'm a huge fan of leaning by doing. I'm encouraged to hear about your home, I plan to be building within the next few years and sometimes that though gets overwhelming having been trained as an airplane fixer, not a house builder. I love hearing of people who are doers just doing it!
I really like this guy and I also like a guy who is not afraid to admit mistakes. He will end up with a good job and this video should help the inexperienced a lot because the short cuts will be know whether they would work or not. Shortcuts rarely do.
Question: i still want straight walls because we are planning to build a studio; can these arches be placed atop a rectangular wall base? Can we make it more like a barn but without such a tall ceiling?? I don’t want a 20ft ceiling on my 15ft wide structure.
now that it has been thru a couple winters how is she holding up? sorry if you have answered in another video this is my 1st time watching this series thanks from Sean in Athens ,Vermont
No worries at all! My Shed Plans brings me up to speed with professional tips and tricks used by the pros [Go Here=> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. It really let me learn how to handle carpenter equipment, follow the right safety rules, and how to do your projects professionally so that they will look good and last!
Just a thought! why not use multiple 1/4 inch plywood and sandwich and glue them together so the joint is spread out more and you end up with a curved board before you join top to bottom
That’s the boatbuilder/woodworker/engineering way of doing it for sure. But i would not use plywood either. Regular plywood anyway- marine plywood has no internal voids. People think marine plywood is rot-resistant, but it’s not. The reason marine plywood is used is because of the no-void construction which has no stress risers letting it bend without failure.
Making the gussets longer/larger and the brace for raising is toenailed first, along with stakes as cleats. It's advisable to use a second man but you're good enough...so we expect you to suck it up. Good vids, bro. Good job.
Simpler solution using engineering 101 principles ( and save yourself some $$: Use 3/8 or 1/2 plywood for easier bending & less breakage. (I build wooden experimental aircraft). Then, to compensate for the thinner wall strength increase the depth of the inter-supports using 2x6 instead of 2x4. 2x8 even better. Double the depth of any beam (using same thickness materials) and you increase strength by four times. And the stiffness by 8 times. cutting those inter-web supports shorter and using more of them helps to disperse the wind loads moire evenly as well. As you get closer to the ground, they need to be closer spaced to handle the heavier loads there. Another tip: on the bendiest section of the catherdral arch, the midddle...have a single piece of ply. No joints. That's the weakest part of the structure. Also, some Titebond 2 or 3 owuld be a huge, inexpensive upgrade to the joint strength, in addition to the screws. Less $$, lighter, and easier to handle...same or greater strength. Also, the more plies in the sheet, the better.
Jc Knight I'm going to take on a smaller similar project and I have to say I like the comments and constructive information..better then condensending trolls who on post negative information without an alternative..or offered tips (makes me question their validity)
JC, thank you for your approach, and the information conveyed therein. It's good info and I appreciate it as well as your experience that it comes from.. Cheers
Just an idea... Before you put your first board in the corner, screw the first two blocks on it. (The spacer blocks at 18"). Then you won't have to worry about getting the driver in the corner. Just imho . Blessings ~
Brilliant!! no, seriously lol I wish I'd thought of that but was so wrapped up in the current blunder that I couldn't see the forest for the trees. That would have made things a lot easier.
I built my last shed for the price of the screws and my time. Pallets, 9’x9’x 9’ it’s been through 2 Alaskan winters both with 4’ of snow that I never shoveled off.
Thanks for showing the screw ups. Most people edit them out so they look better. I need to know what can go wrong so I can avoid it. I figure things out that way. So glad you are posting this as it.
If you live where it snows, I would suggest avoiding plywood with voids for the same reason it broke. The voids will always be a weak point, along with the joints, in your structure.
Oh man SUCH good help! But the more they're exposed to doing stuff like this, the more actual help the'll be in the coming years. I refer to them regularly as my two future wood splitters :)
Might be a minor thing but I would have just used a butt block at the strip joints. In fact, I think you could use a full width spacer block as a butt block and kill two birds with one stone. No lap joint to get in the way when sheathing.
Your shed looks great! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! I built an 8x10 shed for my kids in my backyard earlier this year using plans I got from *WoodBlueprints. Com* Clear directions and an accurate materials list...It was great for a novice builder like myself!
I have been think of building something like this useing 1/2" PVC pipe for a green house with same size pipe in between with a 1/2 dowel glue in the short pipe sections holding it together with wood screws going through the long pipes into the wood dowel
I used chearer 3/8 plywood I also used different plans from a university co=op I also ripped my own 1x2s from 2x4s on one of those small craftsman table saws. I used 4 1x8 boards as base and car rails. for the cap I cut 2 of the 1x8s edges at 30 degrees. I set 4x4s in the ground to mount the base rails to. Made temp jigs to hold the cap up, then put in the inside part of the arch. next I added the 1x2s lengthwise about 2 feet apart. Then added the outer plywood strips to the arch. Its a 12x7 building it took 2 people 2 days to build and its lasted 14 years as a chicken coop.
The 3/8 plywood was the cheapest buy. It was 3 ply. When you set the 4x4 posts make sure you leave enough 1x8 outside of the post to attach the plywood strips on the ends. If the building is 8ft long then the post will be set 7 in shorter than that if the strips are cut at 3.5 in. I also used the inside of the posts to attach framing rails for the floor. You can also set longer 4x4 posts and build sidewalls to make it taller. In case you wish to add a sleeping loft. Reclaimed pallet wood can be used on the roof then covered with almost ant type of roofing. THX for the highlight.
I think i might be using screws designed to withstand sheer stresses. Also an overlap of at least 12” screwed at both sides would avoid breakage. 3/4” dense ply without gaps costs only $2 bucks more....I recently put a subfloor on and found it at a big box store (starts with ‘L’ and rhymes with ‘Bows’) and found the marine ply for $3 LESS than the junk board.
Thanks Rusty, one of the things that was driven home to me when I first started making videos was to upgrade sound before anything else. I did just that and have been very pleased with the result.
Hi Zack. I may have done it differently, but you DID it. You get credit. Nice production, and I appreciate the "what I did right and what I did wrong" at the end. What part of the country?
Very nice. subbed. Think possible to build these so they can achieve R-30 insulation using rockwool. R-30 rockwool is like 7.5 inches thick. Think possible to pass Florida primary residential dwelling building codes with this style construction? I have a an 80x100 residential lot in a rural area with sparse modest houses about mile away. My central Florida (zone 2) lot faces a preserve so no front neighbors. I talked to the county who said no issue with aesthetics or interior open concept. No issues with not having widows on the sides.. but only an engineer can say if it will meet structural, wind and energy codes. Talked to a few local engineers and general contractors and nobody is interested in this unorthodox idea - seems too many unknowns or too small of a job. I have a small test I did on my channel.
I would not use plywood strips for the arches. First, they are too weak , and they do not have the same properties as natural wood when bent. The arches must have strength which is created by its material and by its being bent. Make a jig on a wooden frame. More guide blocks is better to help slowly bend the wood strapping into place and to ensure a uniform shape to the arch. The arches can take a variety of bends, which is really ugly. When you double the length, overlap it more and place your center blocks at those joints and add an extra block where you see a straining area. (Extra blocks can bother you later, but not much.) Another reason NOT to use plywood is that if you cover the shed with a plastic, water can sweat and condense in the shed, which makes the plywood vulnerable to moisture. You want to watch that even with wood strapping.
I'm guessing that where the boards that are breaking is near the joint? This will a weak point, as a full-lap joint has virtually no strength. A better joint would be a half-lap joint (the ply is probably too thin to use a Bridle joint, or you don't have the appropriate tools) that is *glued* and screwed. The longer the half laps, the better. Additionally you could put a short piece of 1/8th/3mm bracing ply over each side of the joint (also glued). This will distribute the load better than just a 3*4 inch full lap.
Not so. How you achieve the bend determines breaking propensity all else being equal. Building an 8- or 10-foot caul to establish the bend would probably eliminate the breakage entirely. Using strapping from a mill or lumber company (not a box store!) would be better, 16’ materials available, and using a caul would be way stronger, take less time, and cost about the same. Lowers, Home Despot just sell stuff like mere commodities and aren’t sensitive to construction requirements. They sell SKUs not ‘lumber.’
I would use solid wood too but then you might get breaks on the knots. CDX plywood isn't made for that application. I just wouldn't construct the whole thing like that.
Yip...Dewalt doesn't get points for being quiet. Albeit it's just a drill. Thanks for the Vid...I may do a greenhouse built....need to think of snow load though....or ability to "shed" ROTFLMFAO
Wow, positive suggestions and woho turd comments how dangerous this is etc... when you do it and learn and share your lesions we all understand why. But the obvious "Professional" or as I like to say "Expert" (ex-spert) fail to recognize.. this is to build a really cheap building... Ok that said, check on costs but sometimes you can get thin board, paneling etc on sale and then you can cut the strips and glue them together in the jig,,, will be super strong and not need to be as thick plus keep its shape too even without the blocks .. removes tension. and of course paint every surface .. really thick like a glue covering... but what do I know I'm not an "ex-spert" ... past tense spert... .. Great to see people Doing!!!!
Peanut Blondie make a steam tube to put strips of wood in. A canning pressure cooker with some copper and high temp hose leading into a piece of metal gutter down spout. Cap one end with the steam piped in, put your piece or two in and lay a damp rag to seal off the open end. Makes bending the wood more uniform.
Both solid ideas in my opinion (for whatever that's worth). Steaming it would certainly make the bending process better but it seems like at a total of 48 strips it would take forever. It's certainly not lost on me that sometimes to do things "right" you must take the slower course of action, I guess for me it would depend on how "temporary shed" or "permanent structure" you're going for. I really want to try some steam bending, thanks for making me think!
You don't want to soak plywood. Just sayin. And, if you soak wood(I might try this design using 1x4 boards and 4x4 blocks), it should be dried before gluing.
You could probably do this for much cheaper (not to mention faster and easier) using repurposed 70's/80's mobile home roof "trusses" - which are available in most parts of the country for pennies on the dollar. But I admire your stick-to-it-ness and your willing-to-learn-itude.. lol
Thanks Bird, that's what it's largely about for me. Coming up with some hair brained idea, giving it a shot, learning something (or lots of somethings) new, and passing it on to the fair viewer so as He or She can start off a little ahead of where I did. Cheers!
Great video my friend. Ignore all the Detractors and Health and Safety Nuts you listen to them and you never get anything done or it cost you 3 x the price. Half the Fun of Destroy it Yourself ( DIY ) is the F**k Ups and the Swearing Afterwards. Old true Saying " The person who has never dropped a Bollock or got Hurt has never done Anything"
Part of the beauty of my shed being in a place where I can't see the "neighbors" (I didn't specify proximity) is that I don't have to care what the neighbors think of what I do on my own property.
Indeed, I feel like people can learn as much from my mistakes as from my successes. If you haven't seen it already you might find value in the Lessons Learned video I did on this shed. Here's a link to it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mG41Jj_5X9Y.html
That is a really good suggestion, and one that I've actually been thinking about for a while. Maybe I'll try building one on a smaller scale as a greenhouse or something. Thanks for the suggestion and thanks for watching!
Hey Cleeve thanks for the suggestion. Although it was toward the end of the video, 8:37 to be specific, I made the very same suggestion. I hope you're wrong about the joint failure but time will certainly tell the tale. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment.
Oh I must of missed that part. But I really like the building/ idea! I wouldn't mind building something like that for my dad. He's got lots of crap/junk I have to pry out of his hands too throw away.!!!
Well, I think you can lol. I intend to put some sort of more substantial cover on it (shingles or metal roofing) I'll be sure to let you know if it comes down!
yes but sometimes getting cheap is what you need. Having said that, I'll admit that in a few aspects I'd have been better off buying a little less cheap.
