Thanks for the shout out! A good quick way to find center of the board without measuring is strike a line from corner to corner, then the opposite set of corners. Boom perfect center mark for scribing the circle.
CarAudioFabrication oh no I didn’t know processionals would be watching!! Yes the corner to corner method is the easiest way to do that for sure... I only had a marker with me (when I was filming) and I didn’t wanna have the big X’s
Internal bracing is a great additional to any box, cut two interlocking pieces in a U shape to strength it up and give you a place to attach the wiring. Doubling the baffle thickness is also not a bad idea, especially if you want to flush mount the driver or plan on high SPL. Speakon connectors are great replacements for standard wire terminals, being smaller and relatively cheap.
No offense at all, but I'm kinda surprised that some people don't know that? Didn't we all learn that in school? We did so in Norway at least. But yes, good info:)
I was interested in trying something like this for the first time but felt discouraged. I appreciate you breaking down every step in detail for someone who wouldn’t know where to start with measurements. Very nice video!!!
I love getting these comments! I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment. I do videos like this with the hopes of helping someone like myself when I was younger before RU-vid was around and had to figure things out mostly by trial and error and help from friends.
I recently built my first box using bcae1. I had a few missteps and haven’t sanded down the edges yet but overall it came out great. I designed it sealed based off their recommended volume and decided I wanted to go ported. Luckily it’s right at the upper end of the manufacturer’s ported spec so I just added aero port. As a tinkerer I’m never done but it’s satisfying to try something new and succeed.
Just a tip on the uneven edges after glue-up... if you want a consistent and flat edge around the box, it's way faster to run it through the table saw again and just flip the box as you go. MDF dust is brutal on the lungs, so avoid sanding it as much as possible.
@@HifiVega Dude you are so hilarious. I agree. I think it could be the worst care ever made in the history of the of world. But she loves it, that's all that matters. Your mother in law is probably the same age as my mom, 64.
This was a pretty good one rob... not quite as boring as usual. Im definitely not a great box builder although i build all my own boxes. It seems i get better every time i build one. My most recent box i went with birch instead of mdf and it actually came out pretty good. Its not exactly what i want but hopefully my next attempt i get it where i want it.
Great video but can you do the same but with a ported box and tell us how to go about placing the port when using a tube and tell us how far apart it needs to be from the sub?
Just watching this made up my mind. I'm going to do my 8in sub American bass vfl box myself in my Tahoe. Thanks for t hug e video n the info you share.great video n keep them up
Yup, the mounting hole doesn’t need to be perfect. There is an allowed tolerance and once the speaker is mounted, your imperfections will be hidden. Thanks for the video.
Ok Vega 😎 you beat me to a box build,I've been wanting to do this, I will soon ,I was a punch out and warranty contractor for John weiland homes for a long time ,I have some build secrets I will reveal when I get one pushed out.😀 great work brother nice choice on the MDF, is that medium density or multi density, LoL 🤣looks good man,bit hey I'm a sealed encloser guy any way I just prefer an air spring,but why cha expect I'm the og airbender.
@@HifiVega oh for sure 👍 birch plywood always ,I actually prefer plywood or 13 ply cabinet grade for strength and accustics.mdf is just easier to work and some would argue it's more accusticly accurate,🔊🔊🔊
I really want to know if it's possible for me to de-solder the wires power in my Bluetooth speaker and connect them to these surroundsound amps and then intern make a portable Bluetooth subwoofer. Do you think that would work? If so, please respond.
LOL Last night I was building a sealed 10 inch subwoofer, and just as I finished it I got a message: Hifivega has uploaded a new video: how to built a subwoofer Box for beginners What a coincidence!
HifiVega I hear ya! Sometimes the click of a cassette mechanism and the screeching sounds of FF/RW are oddly satisfying when playing with my old Alpine units.
I know MDF is the best for a box. Would it sound different if you use actual plywood? What if you were to deaden the sound from the inside? Point I’m getting at is I have a woodgrain I’d like to use for a box
Hifivega have you ever used HDF instead of MDF it's much heavier and I'm curious as to wether it has any audio benefits? Great channel by the way I found it via big d wiz channel.
8:26 What i have dobe in pass as a beginner is to copy comercial made sub woofers i get their measurement cutting hole i use home made guide for jig saw
I just made a 'Ghetto Box' using some wood from a discarded cabinet. about 0.66 cu.ft 1.5x10.5 port, length about 60 inches(t-line style), used BassBox and the tuning is 34 hz Long box, nearly square side while long on the front And paired with a cheap 25$ 8 inch sub. It bangs hard! SPL nearly broke some window jalousies!
I use screws to hold things together until the glue dries then remove the screws and fill the holes. Once the glue is dry and cured you don't need the screws, the glue is stronger than the wood your gluing and won't fail on you. This technique makes it easy to round over any edges without having to worry about destroying your bit.
Ok so for bigger speakers like 2 massive 15s or JL audio 15s etc you need screws and glue to hold it together cuz its gonna be beating hard and flexing that box
LMAO .... In my 25 yrs of working in the car stereo world and building HUNDREDS of subwoofer boxes, i along with other box builders have NEVER EVER EVER removed the screws that HOLD the box together. We use glue and screws to keep it together. When your pushing over 750+ W RMS, those box walls WILL flex and you think the glue will hold it together ... LMAO ...
How do I do this if I am making it fit within the opening of the twilight area in the trunk? Several angles and shapes that are required, where should I start and how do I know what sub should be the right one, in order to not restrict it. I was thinking a 10” (which will physically fit, but don’t know how much room should be needed to get the full bass affect)
I have a Nissan Frontier and I have a 8 inch subwoofer and a 6.5 subwoofer by the same company I don't have much space but I do have a little part in between that I wanted to build an small box for them well I'm doing a seal box so it doesn't really matter for me right I personally like sealed box better
Great video , I always struggle with box building. Mainly cause of the math and figuring out the correct size and cubic air space. Plus getting perfect cuts only using a deck saw. Lol skill saw
Lol yep I sanded. And then somehow how some gap spots (small) so I got some bondo 😒😔 and used that. Next thing I know. A ported box for a single T2 PSI built sub became STUPID HEAVY! lol. Took up the whole area in back of my H3’
@@HifiVega thanks for the reply. I'm going to build an enclosure for my ranger utv. Thinking of fiber glassing the out side to help water proof it more. May also look at the other wood for water reasons
Nice job. I need help on building my box, I want it to be ported at 35hz reinforced,I also want it to be 5 cubic feet,and also to fit inside the trunk of my jaguar,I have built one box and it did not fit in the trunk😤it is a very small trunk,I’m thinking of throwing in the towel on this build and taking it to a stereo shop to build the box,but I hate doing business with car audio dealers they always rip me off.
Fresh55n9ne it can be tough, but when you’re measuring make sure to measure the trunk opening (both ways) and make your enclosure about 1/2” smaller than that
I'm doing a budget build with 9 pyle power 15s. I want to do ported but don't know how to calculate port size. I would it tuned to 35hz with 3 cubes each sub in a comon box.
delaneo waddey this is my favorite site for figuring the port size and length out for tuning www.mobileinformationlabs.com/HowTo-1Woofer-Box-CAL%20Port%20lenth%201.htm
If u are uncomfortable using a saw you can have it cut for u at store. They have a plywood saw. They used to not charge for it. Its better than using a skillsaw if you are inexperienced.
You want to build a better box ? Double layer. With laps going opposite way on second layer. More weight , more dense, more sound. And will not leaker rattle apart under high pressure. Mine are double layer then cased with 1/4" maple with mahogany trim
Double layering isn't really worth it. It makes the box heavy as fuck and there are far better ways to strengthen your box without such a waste of valuable mdf
Back in the 90's when i was into car stereo competitions, all we had was particle board to build our boxes ... And if they didn't have that, we used plywood.
Ron JL White I did and I forgot you message you! My bad... Don’t you worry tho I be building boxes all the time, although I’m not nearly as prolific a box builder as yourself.
Thanks man. Built my first enclosure in 1989 for two KFC-W210s. The were Kenwood 10" free airs in a sealed 6 to 8 cubic foot enclosure. It took up the entire back seat of an 87 Escort. That had some pretty good bass on a 500 watt Majestic.
Do u happen to have the correct specs for a skar evl 12 d2? I keep finding diffrent dimmensions and never build before ...can anyone help with this answer?
one thing you could have done better is you could have mounted driver and terminals flush. that makes it much easier to transport. also if the 18" uses a ferrite magnet some handles would not hurt either. of course it depends on how heavy the final product is relative to weights you're used to lifting. i have a subwoofer that's about 200 lbs that i really wish i had put handles on.
Not sure I only use the epicenter on my music with high hz like 55hz to 75hz the epicenter brings it down to around 36hz to 40hz or in my live band type of music with real bass guitar If I add the epicenter to music with Bass it will sound bad like distorted
hey, my alpine 3331 11 band eq died today, I am now trying to use the 3 band parametric eq in my Alpine head unit but it is just not working out, is there anywhere you know I can send my eq in to get fixed? It still lights up but it won't play sound anymore
Thanks for the quick reply, im curious is the 3 band parametric eq in my head unit supposed to be better than the 11 band graphic 3331? I was talking to Alpine tech support guy and he told me to take out my eq and use the one in the head unit, was a little disappointed to hear this lol
100%! They actually give a average displacement for each size driver listed on that site, but that is not totally accurate for a lot of today's new drivers.
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