You Won't Believe The Best Wood For Your Subwoofer Box! Birch vs MDF 

To learn more about box building check this out: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SVZ5uD_smpc.html

I started using water resistant MDF (its a green/olive color). This stuff is about double the density and weight of regular MDF. I have yet to find another wood product even close to this. It is even more enjoyable to work with than Birch (I have worked plenty with Baltic birch and regular mdf). Because it doesn't absorb moisture, painting it is a pleasure without the need to seal cut edges. In terms of sound and especially bass response, it performs incredibly well.

Great video overall. Thank you! Another thing--you taught me a much-needed Baltic Birch thing or three I did not already know.

I like the birch simply because of the weight. Sometimes I have to take the box out of my truck and plywood definitely saves the back!

Cool! Yeah, I definitely like DIY projects. I've never done anything with speaker or sub enclosures, but have been really satisfied with the potential of old reclaimed pine and the finish that can be achieved. **on a side note, the sound system that I put in my daily driver has been a game changer for me. It lifts my spirits and turns my older car into something special. 😉 👍

i remember the first sheet of mdf that i bought from home depot was $6. back when i was first getting into enclosures, i used plywood, osb and particle board those all could be had readily for $4-5 per sheet. i recently made a sub enclosure from some scrap osb i found in the alley next to a construction job. solid box. cheers

Another excellent and enjoyable video, Justin. I really appreciate the time you take in carefully crafting the presentation of your vids. The scripting and selected language used helps drive a cohesive presentation that is easy to both comprehend AND digest. 💪🏽🔥

All good points 👍 Justin keep up the great work

Thats a great phillosophy.cheers.

Very well put together. Love It!

Excellent presentation, thank you !

I love the video. Someday I'll get off my tuckis and build me a box. I'll keep watching these videos in the meanwhile

love the channel and content. Its been decades since i built an enclosure; that said,, I live in the south with all of the great humidity. One trick i used to do to prevent moisture from degrading my MDF enclosures over time was to mix a fairly cold fiberglass resin and coat the interior and exterior of the enclosure. Making it 'cold' with less activator allows it to actually absorb into the MDF and become moisture resistant. I'd aim for a cure time of 36 - 48 hours.

I sealed my mdf with a white sealer. Just left it white. Worked great

I switched to 1/2" 6 ply Baltic birch from Rockler years ago for my guitar amp/speaker cab projects and have never looked back. Super solid and light weight compared to 3/4" MDF. Plus I can simply stain/poly the cabs and call it a day. There's nothing wrong with MDF - but I would never go with if for anything that has to be moved around or exposed to the elements (like beer). I really appreicated the safety issues you point out! That's one thing a lot of newbies over look when when start on these kind of projects...

MDF was always my go to for subwoofer enclosures.

Great video very informative I've only used mdf

I loved your video and agreed with everything you said thank you!

Concur with MDF. I've had some very good sounding builds with MDF.

You hit the nail on the head with "every project a little better than the last". This is life, continual growth and improvement. Love your stuff, has helped my projects a lot!

I like the Gremlins reference 😂

Love to hear your thoughts on casting a speaker enclosure from concrete, or some other material. I think you nailed the ply vs ply vs MDF argument. Its not 100% about material strength, but more about the material not resonating.

I've built many boxes in both materials but my preferred technique is ½ MDF for all the interior and inside layer and the ½ Baltic ply for the outside panels. This gives the acoustic advantages of MDF and protective advantages of ply and doesn't finish too heavy.

I've done my research and I can't find what I like so I do diy it might be time consuming but it's all worth it

I love the dual port birch! I’m a metal and hard punch guy but that port tune looks solid. Do your math!

So I've been building enclosures for a long time now and I've used mdf, Birch Maple, Baltic birch & some other various kinds of wood My very favorite for quality In audio is by far MDF. It has a warmer, rich, smoother tone compared to other types. To make sure I don't split the wood, I use mdf SPAX screws that are 1.75 inch long and have an arrow head type point . They are amazing. I also glue, caulk, brace the insides of every enclosure the down side is there heavy and if not painted or coated if water hits the wood will expand but I primer and paint every enclosure so it's solid!

Early acoustic suspension system enclosures were built with 13 ply marine grade plywood. Of necessity they will be filled to the brim with fiberglass or a similar material. I liked Wharfedale's solution in the mid 1960s. They built a box within a box leaving an air gap between the outside of the inner box and the inside of the outer box. That space was filled with sand.

The n95 leftover from the covid era work well. Rustnoilum paint seals and looks great in matching colors

Just used 3/4 mdf for a 13W7 3 cubes tuned to 33Hz , it bangs , im extremely pleased

As with all things in speaker building, there are positives and negatives to all box materials. One thing that can help a lot with full range speaker boxes is cld. A layer of sound deadening material will go a long way to improve the acoustics of a box. Which can let you use materials that are lighter and easier to work with.

Thanks 😊

I'm debating between regular 3/4'' mdf or 1'' mdf for a box of 70 liters (maybe a bit less) tuned at 36 hz. Would you be able to hear a massive difference between the two acoustically speaking?

I like baltic birch because I can go thinner for the same strength, but then I also add braces to keep it rigid. I have one enclosure built of 3/8" stuff and it's very strong.

nice video man. i know you have a video on windisd, bt You should Do more of a lesson on the Port velocity and phase alignment.

I just bought a second hand (inexpensive) Bugera 1x12 guitar speaker cabinet. It's MDF and it sounded good. I put a Celestion Creamback in it and now it's awesome! So if you don't want to make one keep your eyes out for a 2nd hand cabinet made from MDF. They should a bit less expensive.

MDF is most definitely the way to go!!! People are definitely on the birch wagon but I don't have the money for that!🤣 Great video!!!

Did you make the router jig you are using at 1:26 or is that a purchasable system?

I made a 12inch subwoofer box tuned to 32 hz out of 3/4 mdf and i was suprised at the tones when i played sound of silence and decaf white clouds. Was really suprised 😊

I have a wood distributor about an hour away from me, who well, sells to those cabinet guys, but they were happy to sell me 6 4 x 8 sheets of baltic birch(13ply) for my dual 18" subwoofer enclosure. Really amazing wood to work with, I used a polymerized tung oil as a finish and it was outstanding. $125 bucks a sheet though and thats a tough pill to swallow when ACX pine plywood and MDF are nearly 150% cheaper.

Auto body primer filler works great for MDF. 3 coats a light sanding and you can paint right over the edges.

I really enjoy watching your videos man i want to build a box for my subwoofer but I'm scared 😂

DIY has a nicer look overall. CNC'd everything tends to be a bit too crisp. Hand worked stuff has a high quality feel to it, that you can't just buy anywhere. I use thinned epoxy to seal MDF. I use hybrid construction. MDF panels with plywood bracing.

I have access to a cabinet shop. That has tons of sheets of baltic birch. i have made a few boxes with it. I love it, but it's all pre finished, so you have to sand it down.

have you ever tried a sheet of lead between two sheets of wood ? it is avialable in rolls

I have question, i have 8inch subwoofer so how much space i need to get proper output? And for more i have no space in car to put only one area where I can set my subwoofer is under seat

I just found you today and watched a couple videos. I usually use regular plywood, then I roll on Rhino Lining inside and out. Try it if you haven’t and make a video. I have also used concrete sealer but that ages and peels off.

greeting here in puerto rico we use pvc panel for making cabinet! i just did a pvc enclosure for a 23 old technics speaker, and sound amazing, but im a cabinet maker not a sound guy, i use 3/4- .65 density rhino pvc panel, i search youtube and didn't find a single video reference , so maybe its a good test for a audio diy guy like you to test!

I'm old school MDF FTW

Got it... Birch=Pine Particle Board=Glued wood chips MDF=Glued sawdust

You can paint mdf with an oil based paint. I've done it for years, and it resists any water! It takes quite some time to thoroughly dry but its lovely and can be cleaned once finished.

I used to use particle board.

If you use MDF and live in a wet/humid climate, a little not so cheap trick, is to coat the entire box, inside and out, with fiberglass resin, and then finish however you want. It seals the wood completely, and makes it pretty much, weatherproof. I wouldn't suggest leaving it out in the rain, but it will be much better than bare wood, or just carpeted.

My buddy uses MDF and I use Baltic Birch. I think MDF gives a more lush yummy sound and the BB gives a more tight sound. BB flexes less which is important for high compression sealed subs. I couple this with internal bracing and different deadening materials on the inside. I like both materials. I think I like the sound of MDF more, better for listening speakers; I use BB because I build studio monitors and I like a tight, fast, accurate sound.

I have gone away from MDF because it is so very hard to handle by myself. However I have a tractor with pallet forks, so my John Deere can do the heavy lifting and my next box for a Resilient Sounds Platinum 18 will be MDF. It will be in the bed of my truck with a blow through so moisture is a concern, so I will have to seal it well.

Every time I added bracing to a build the DBs went down. I have built the face three sheets thick however. I've been out of the audio industry for over 20 years though.

I get 3/4 Baltic birch ply for $75 a sheet off the shelf to the public in Sacramento.

Before I beginning; I'm discussing specifically Home Theater, not car audio or anything related to such. Such a relevant video for me! I'm currently on my 4th speaker I've built since I started a few months ago. Although I have yet to finish 3 of them, I'm building the enclosures first for both woodworking fun and style. So the question is simple: What's your take on utilizing solid wood (of different species, not pine...never pine lol; More like Oaks, Walnuts Teak, etc) to build the box, and then inside of this box, build an MDF box? In my scenario, which I plan on doing for the Subwoofer; I'll be doing a 14 (H) x15 (L) x 14 (W) subwoofer encloser out of 3/4" woods, inlayed between Oak and Wulnut, using box and mitre joints at the corners. - The back will be recessed 1/2 inch for the MDF back panel for the amp plate. - The front will have a 1" recess for 3/4 MDF then a 1/4 Oak face. (Maybe? I'm unsure if I'll do this or simply paint the MDF black and do speaker cloth). Inside of this box, my idea was to simply make another box out of MDF taking the internal measurements and putting it together inside of the lager enclosure. Although I will "lose" volume, the idea is to specially add both mass and have the unique woodworking techniques I wanted to try (including a couple inlays and a branding), whilst having a natural oil finish. Thoughts? Thing this will be a worse solution that simply using only the hardwood for the project? I also do have plenty of mineral wool from a remodel project that I never used (Overspent, had 4 batts left over, I also have Pink-Panther R15 insulation left over, too.) The subwoofer size I was considering was 8 - 10" or so; I'm looking to specifically hit a quality range for a home theater without going too overboard. I have plenty of oak and walnut left over from additional projects so for me, that cost is minimal.

MDF is great for “sketching” enclosures. But proper, dense Baltic birch (not the cheap crap from the big box stores) is much preferred to MDF from a resonance control standpoint.

Use what you want, but 30yrs ago every pro installer including myself used particle board and it was sufficient for some high power and large builds. I never had a issue with the screws, not once. Not saying those issues couldn't arise and I'm sure some people have probably encountered them, but neither myself or any of the other installers I knew did. Good info though

The best is a combination with mdf idro and birch plywood, mdf 15mm. internally and plywood 15mm. externally glued together!!🔝🔝

It is really great when you live in the Baltic states and Baltic birch is as common as bricks. A full 4' by 8' 3/4" Riga Ply currently costs 66€ including tax. So yeah, never gonna touch MDF.

If you are in so cal hit up peterman lumber ...top notch birch cabinet grade

Can you do a comparison video between MDF and Baltic Birch. This video you are just speaking about cabinet grade birch ply.

I wish I could get Baltic Birch again for $70. (4x8 3/4") Now if I want to buy it, if it's ever in at my local place, it's $130ish for the same 4x8 3/4" Baltic Birch. I'm not exactly a fan of MDF mostly due to the weight. But it's sorta cheaper and readily available. And easy to cut like you mentioned in the video.

Do you know what material would work best to stop sound from either a router or a shopvac?

You should take orders for enclosures. I'm looking to purchase one and can't find to specs. These pre fans are built for specific subs or are just really cheap.

what material would be better for a blowthrough setup? i have a 2003 silverado single cab with the box in the bed and no bed cover. someone even recommended i do the outer walls with plywood and the inner walls and bracing with mdf. i want to build a 6th order enclosure for a fi btl 3 15" sub.

6:00 I thought the reason you preferred MDF was because it was "less resonant"? But if it's more flexible than plywood of the same dimensions, then the plywood is stiffer and therefore less resonant, especially when given the support of a box. Unless you're building something that needs a round over or intricate edge detail, and even then sometimes, use plywood, the sawdust isn't literally toxic. The binding agent used in MDF is Formaldehyde based.

I always use both, MDF inner and Plywood outer with a constraining silicone layer in between them.👍

y are speaking my language making my project more so better..everything diy

I want to make a sound bed (with speakers). Is MDF good for this?

I used 1-1/2 plywood. Double layer for baffle. Heavy beast. But I got it for free. Any reason to use thinner material besides lighter weight?

Voidless plywood or solid wood over errthang

I love birch! Low dust, not made w/ formaldehyde, lightweight compared to mdf. With proper bracing birch is my go to! And lately i am able to find it cheaper than mdf! $10 cheaper at my local lumber yard than lowes mdf for a 4'x8' sheet Edit: unfortunately I am now unable to get baltic birch, as it has been named conflict birch😢

I just recently built a 7cf box for a x18v3 tuned to 32hz...how far should my port be from the hatch of my vehicle?

Dude snuck in that Gremlins reference so smoothly...

I have a odd question. If you were going to make a relaxation tub in a house would these same practices apply. I'm wanting the sound to resonate through the tub and water. Would it be better to incorporate the tub itself Into the enclosure or spaced away from the tube and firing toward it. Standard vocal hz range with no special tuning. Yes I know I'm crazy 😂. Not asking you to build it just point me In a good direction is all.

I'm a diy guy too.....practice makes perfect sense.

What about particle board with formica on the backside, I have built my boxes this way forever and they pound hard as anything else and it's heavy. What's your thoughts???

What if you use solid oak boards. I have access to a saw mill and could cut oak to basically any size needed.

Mdf always seemed to have deeper bass than plywood to me

What about hdf? Rubbermaid pre fab shelf board in white,black,slate,and wood..

In a old diy speaker book from the 80s they reduce resonance with a sandwich from 2 different thick diameters. 19mm + 13mm. 👍👍🇩🇪 i use 22mm MDF. 14.50€/m2

How about subs built with Baltic Birch on the outside layer, MDF on the inside layer and bracing…

I like BOTH! But Please Try this? Baltic Birch for the Top and Both sides. Cheapo Pine or MDF for the back and Bottom. 3m Spray On Adhesive and Frost King CF1 "No Itch" Natural Cotton Multi-Purpose Insulation, 16 x 1 x 48-Inch and Fill from Parts Express. Make it any size you like and lately I've done more Belled Ports than Vents. I stopped bracing my Normal size Speakers 15 years a LOL! I have Braced large Subs but Nothing Smaller than a Set HPM 150/1500 speaker though.

The reason we call MDF particle board is because it is. Medium Density Fiberboard, what you're comparing it to is actually LDF, Low Density Fiberboard, more commonly known as Particle board or as I call it, Chipboard, because it's made with wood chips, not sawdust like MDF or fine dust like HDF, google a comparison pic or ask the dude at the hardware to show you the difference.

Not cost efficient, but I love my 1", 18ply, void-free, ApplePly box. 1 cu ft internal volume 29" long 1" wide 7" tall with 45 degree angled corners, and flanged port . Router, scroll saw, and sander for the win on the port flange. Used Keda Royal Blue dye, and lacquer finish.... Sadly Keda is not fade resistant at all.

I put the formica side on the I side of the box.

Ive got a twin 12" box and to get it into the car you need 2 people I tried it alone and my eyes felt like they were gonna pop out. this is the main reason i don't like mdf but i havent found a alternative yet.

Do not know much about speaker/sound mechanics, but if you're thinking about MDF, ask your supplier about getting MDO with an MDF core. Neither Home Depot nor Lowe's can get MDO. Check your local area for regional lumber sources and can even find it at sign shops. Once you use MDO you'll never use MDF/Birch again.

Particle board, OSB, and MDF are all very different, designed for different purposes. The trouble is, "particle board" is often used when talking about any of the three.

hello if i install kenwood kfc-hqr3000 subwoofer in alpine 30cm cabinet, will i get quality sound amp alpine mrp m350

seems you had some high density there splitting.. particle board has it's uses still. but it's only if you're into using epoxy and just need to save weight. basically you just build around it using it like a core material.. cardboard works

Ever seen a box made of Purple Heart? One of the heaviest and densest woods. Even harder to find than Baltic birch

you didn't test the transparency differences at different frequencies ? for instance pine is nearly acoustically transparent at some frequencies. thats from harry olsens acoustical engineering book , 1939.

I build boxes with mdf unless I find some really nice 1" birch. But it's definitely expensive. Last 4 slabs were $160 each, made a beautiful strong box though. Mdf is just easier to work with imo

Can I apply a fiberglass resin coat to seal MDF?

MDF for me

I want to make a subwoofer box for a 10” sub to go in a void in my Toyota 4Runner body, replacing the factory plastic sub enclosure. The MDF box would be partly rectangular with a diagonal on one side to slope around the wheel well. The back of the box would need to slope growing shallower from about halfway up to the top. (A drawing may be required.) In your experience, is an irregular shape like this a bad idea? I’m happy to send a drawing of my plan, or a pic of the place where it goes, if that’s helpful.

Its easy to get baltic birch plywood if you live in one of the Baltic states.