Couldn't agree more! "We're now gonna build some cabinets to save money" then they break out $10K worth of tools with a complete shop set up... Thanks for the simple, easy to follow and very mellow video. 2 thumbs up.
Yep, this is how I am doing my kitchen now. My technique is slightly different, as my floor is not very level. So making the kick as one piece and leveling that first in the room, the plain boxes just get dropped onto this, giving a far faster easier install. For my trimming on edgebanding, I favor the file on edge method as it is less likely to cut into my prefinished Birch plywood. For even stronger cabinets use glue on unfinished plywood. Pocket holes are sufficient, but stronger methods are recommended for the untilmate strength. Tests show tongue and groove or dowels glued have the most strength. The method shown here us just fine for most applications, like!
Pocket holes couldn't be worse than how some of these pre-fab cabinets are made nowadays! How are you making your kick as one piece and leveling in the room? Using 2x4 platforms?
really good video! if the units are gonna be fitted side by side, my 2 cents is that you can just screw from the side, no peed to pocket holes and screws. but again, really good video! you're a natural teacher! congrats!
REALLY NICE SIMPLE BUILD . I LIKE HOW ITS DONE WITH IRON ON EDGE BANDING CURRENTLY BUILDING USING FACE FRAMES. IM LIKING THIS ONE BETTER REALLY LOOKING CLEAN AND SIMPLE WITH BADIC TOOLS 🛠️
You did an amazing job. I'm gonna start tomorrow making your cabinet design. What screws type and size did you use to secure the top brace to the top back side nailer? One more question, what size of pocket hole screws for the ¾" plywood? Thank you 😊
A handy tip for trimming edge band is to hold a chisel flat and use second knuckle as a guide along edge, hard to explain but as long as the blade stays angled pointing inward slightly it works well... We use to use this method back in the 90s
Wish it was that easy but this guy is a professional because no way anyone with no cabinet expertise can pull this off. Especially when you can't even use a skill saw, much less power tools.
It only takes a little time working with basic tools to get to where this is easy. Fix a few things around the house first, put in a deck or make some planter boxes, then do this after you have comfort with tools and have made your newbie mistakes on cheaper materials.
Blum hinges aren't worth the additional expense, unless you plan on taking your cabinet doors off the cabinet often.... The soft close hinges I just bought for $1.12 ea. work just as well... though they're plated, not stainless, and not clip on.
Great video, but here in the UK Baltic Birch is $240 a sheet...so for shop cabinets, I'll be using some cardboard and paper glue. Just 2 sheets is nearly the same cost as a Festool TS55! 🙂
What do you do for the toe kicker? Keep it open or close it with a small piece on the front face? Or pocket hole on in there so it’s flush with the current edges?
Thanks! Biscuits aren’t needed for cabinet builds. It’s redundant and not worth the time. Biscuits are mainly used for large glue ups of countertops and whatnot
Hey, loved the video. Thanks for describing the quality of ply at the start of the video. Do you have any alternatives for Baltic Birch? As we have a shortage in the UK and prices are crazy right now. Many thanks!
Thank you! Any wood will do to be honest. The key is that there are at least 8+ layers of ply and you like the outside surface of the wood. Maple is another option but it can be expensive. Good luck!
I left it open. The face of the toe kick will be installed once all the cabinets are installed in place. That piece will span across multiple cabinets. Check out the later episodes in the bar build series to see it visually
How much roughly does 1 of these cabinets cost assuming you have all the tools? Wondering if I should go the build over buy route for my bar. I’ll factor in 1 fail cabinet to my cost haha
To build the whole bar, I spent around $2,200 on plywood. That included all the cabinets and a few other pieces. I'd add another $300 for miscellaneous items like screws/hinges. So $2,500. I built 9 cabinets, so it comes out to around $275 a cabinet. You can buy cabinets for a lot less, but they are made of particle board and not custom.
Great video and nice looking cabinets. Do you have plans and do you want to share them with the rest of the world? ;-) Those are ideal for my garage.....
Thank you, I appreciate it! I don't have plans, but using the dimensions I provided at the beginning of the video, you should be able to build your own and use the video as a guide!
Question by the way nice video but how in must people don't put the type of wood use the sizes etc. that will also be helpful to first time builders just saying.
Thanks! You must have skipped through the video. In the beginning I discuss the type of plywood I use and why I use it. I also show a cut list with all the sizes of each piece 😁
Are you referring to the doors rubbing? If so, I leave an 1/8” reveal around the cabinet so that is 1/4” between doors if 2 cabinets are right next to each other
@@GoldenKeyDesign So just 1/8 inch of room on the outside edges of both doors? And for the middle how do you account for that so the doors on the same cabinet don't rub each other? Also is there a reason for making them 1/4 inch shorter as well? Is that just for the appearance or is it necessary for the function of the doors?
@@TheMendo123 Yes an 1/8" around all 4 sides. There will be a gap between the doors as well so they won't rub. They are shorter so they don't rub against the countertop and you will have a consistent reveal
I appreciate the concern. I have used table saws for about a decade. Sometimes you take calculated risks to save time or if you don't have the proper tools.
@@GoldenKeyDesign These are not calculated risks. These are improper and highly dangerous practices. You also have an obligation to your audience, and seeing such disdain for basic safety is deeply disheartening. I am henceforth unsubscribing and urging others to look up safe table saw handing practices.
Hi Love ur Video... we learn lots from it. Can u do maybe a video or list that show the tools used , model # .... what about the blades to cut a nice finish.... blade on festool ,blade on mitre saw, blade on table saw.... Thank you for your help. Looks like I'm gonna make my own cabinets thanks to you.
Why do you put a 1/4 dado 3/4" from the back @3:43 (for the back) of the casework? I see people doing this today and I'm scratching my head! That is a house/hiding place for BUGs and mice and makes the inside of the cabinet smaller. We never did that we just rabbited the back 1/4x3/8. an put the "nailer" inside the case. The cheaper shops just stapled it on without the rabbit. Do you use that method for the backs of lower/base cabinets, oven and pantry cabinets?
I explain later in the video that the 3/4” gap is used to install the upper and lower supports behind the back panel. These stiffen the structure of the cabinet and can be used as nailers. It keeps the interior of the cabinet clean and looks more professional compared to mounting nailers inside
@@GoldenKeyDesignI built cabinets for many years, Mortise and Tenon face-frames & Dovetail drawers, Hundreds of Kitchens, Baths & built-ins using every kind of wood you can think of and I never heard a word from a client about the mounting rail on the inside of the casework. No shop around here puts the back the way you have that. Thanks for the explanation.
