Footings provide the solid foundation that will support your deck. Learn about the types of deck footings and how to build them at Decks.com: www.decks.com/how-to/footings...
We're in the process of getting our deck replaced, and the contractor just installed helical piles. Pretty amazing and fast system. The machine just screws it into the ground. In our case they go down 12 feet, so they're down to some extremely solid ground. Supposedly, there's zero movement or settling after installation.
*Is that dirty water or concrete he’s pouring? When more water is used than the bag says the PSI strength is drastically reduced. He used 5000psi mix but might have 2000psi concrete with how much extra water was added.*
Can we do this same thing if the patio is raised? I live in a house that was built in the early 1960s by my Grandparents. They added a patio on the back of the house that is about 18 in off ground level. The "slab" is about 8 in thick and seems to only be supported around the outside by concrete blocks underneath. We cannot see any further under to see if there is support in the middle. We would like to add a larger deck because this has crazy measurements (it's like a bowling alley). We would like to go over the cement and extend and use composite decking. Can this be done without busting out the cement slab? Also, we live in Illinois, so would have to deal with frost/thaw and heaving. Love the channel! I swear I have bunged everything. LOL! I have a list now. Thank you for any help!
@@maxhole2 I went to Depot and asked for a cordless extension cord. I put spot remover on my dog.... now I can't find him. If you shoot a mime should you use a silencer? It's a small world but I wouldn't want to paint it.
At 3:00, you show the footing poured, with a piece of rebar protruding, then you put the tube form on top and pour the concrete post. As you're standing on top of the footing when you insert the tube form, I assume you let the footing set up first. For how long?
We mean by resistance: to snow or rain all these wet materials can harm the structure unless you change the amount of water and ciment to make theme less harmful . Survivability: the duration of time, we have to make sure that the foundations will stand and hold the structure as long as possible.
@@kennethgray6966no, they added way too much and jeopardized the strength of the concrete. Unless of course the were using an admixture which wasn’t mentioned.
Hey great information, my contractor made the cement footing 12inchs and I need them to 15ich or bigger. The deck is built, how does one adjust for this?. Thanks
2:53 how soon after pouring your footing do you typically pace the sonic tube on top? I suspect as soon as it starts to harden enough to support but not completely dry so the two forms of concrete become one solid strucure?
I've wire tied short pieces of thin rebar to the bottom of the tube to lift it a couple inches off the bottom of the oversized hole and done it as 1 pour. Hole 3-4" bigger than tube. Works great. Put 1 bag or more in each hole then go back to the first hole and start filling them 1 by 1. Edit: For deep footings ~40" frost line. Not the surface footings like the video.
@@Luckingsworth Some structures like Gazebos and Solar Panel Arrays require the upside down mushroom to provide wind lift protection. Plus the added area for support is amazing. 8 inch vs 6 inch is 64 vs 36, almost double.
So, for those mere mortals among us who don't have the skills to do it in one pour, what is the answer to this question? How long do we wait for the square pad to set before working on the cylindrical piers?
I'm in South Florida, we never have frost here. Anyone know how deep for the footings. Also, is Quikrete a big no no for footings? The Home Depot image for the footings tubes literally has a bag of Quikrete next to it. It's going to be a very light deck just one story. Any help is appreciated!
wondering why when doing fences it is recommended to have top of concrete below grade immersing the post in soil (apparently this helps with frost heave) while doing decks the concrete comes above the soil?
Perhaps the extra weight of the deck helps to offset that? I am here for the same reason, because I beleive this method is better for setting fence posts 😁 so I would be curious if you find info that says not to do it like this.
So that the bottom of the fence is close to ground level, ans a fence's overall lifespan makes it kind of irrelevant anyway. Ps use galvanized steel posts and adapters for fencing, even wooden fences.
Because people are lazy and don't feel like digging a proper hole? For a wooden fence post hole to last, dig a hole below frost level, fill hole with concrete (with/without sono tube) to several inches above ground level. Embed fence post, and then round off the top of the concrete so water will drain off of it. Extra years of duty life if you go back and waterproof where the wood and concrete meet. PT wood will last much longer if that interface is sealed from water entry. But it will take an extra 2 min/post, so lets just dig a hole, throw in a couple bags of dry mix, and backfill...
@@boots7859better off mounting the post in a bracket so that it can dry because it will get wet. To the OP, brackets for fence posts are a better solution, but it's more expensive up front, so people don't do it. The reason people don't extent the concrete way above the soil line is that it's ugly and it gets in the way of the fence boards.
Use a self leveling laser or the old water level which is basically a clear hose with dyed water in it secure one end to known level mark move from post to post raise or lower end of hose until water level is on reference mark , water level on your end is exactly level with it.
What do you call footing when they do the following. Auger out the holes below frost line. Put tube in. Fill 1/2 to 3/4 full of cement. Let cure. Put 6x6 posts in holes with cement, back fill holes with gravel. Notch out 6x6 to hold your beams. Floating footings?
The footings have to be squared with a shovel before pouring the concrete, this is needed to ensure the minimum load distribution area needed. If you pour the concrete in a pit with rounded corners, the area is too small.
Well mister smarty, do a simple practical exercise with a sharp pen, apply it with the blunt end to your hand, afterwards with the same amount of force apply it with the sharp end, wich one concentrates the loads more in a smaller area? The diameter of the pen shaft is the same either way.
@@dumitrupopamd Blunt end and sharp ends of pen have different surface areas. Pressure is spread from the post down to footing in a 45 degrees cone formation. That means round footing could be costumed exactly in width and depth to bear curtain structural load.
No it's not. It's the way not to do it. One the concrete was to soupy Two that onr little piece of rebar was a joke. You need way more rebar Three he didn't put the strap in. So now you have to drill into the concrete. 😂
I agree with Marks comments, 5K cement is based on proper slump of about 6" this looks like maybe about a 2" which is easier to work but about 50% weaker!
Slump measures how far it falls from the height of the cone so a 6" slump is way more soupy than a 2" slump so you said that backwards. 2" slump is extremely thick
Those footings are way larger than necessary for a deck. 16"x16"x8" is a standard size for deck footings. Anything more than that is overkill unless it is supporting a concentrated load.
@@mica122213 Maybe a big hot tub to hold 7 people each upwards of 125#, maybe as much 250 or 300? The weight of the water alone in a 400 gallon tub is over 3000#, not counting the weight of the tub itself and the people. Why, the water alone could weigh more than average sized car.
Here in Nova Scotia, we were required to dig 52" down (below the frost line) make a 2'x2' base for the footing and then essentially 4ft of 10" sonotube on that, with then 6x6 posts. Total overkill for a small deck just 3ft off the ground!
you don't, if you are totally satisfied and confident in your work, understanding and skill, you do not need any inspections, those are just for dumb ass DIYers who like to hand out free money to smarter people who are willing to legally steal it for giving 2cents worth of questionable "advise" haha what a joke
Never let him near your concrete work! I'm not doubling you just curious... The deck being so low to the ground there wouldn't be much of an arm build on that rebar, wouldn't that rebar mainly be feeling shear stress? How much shear would be on an individual footing that one piece wouldn't be ok (given that the shear is also dispersed through both rough surfaces and there is no anchor set in for brackets to the deck)? Seems overkill of more rebar could cause weakness in the concrete, where the concrete is resisting the compression force. What does the math/theory that the codes are based on say for the specific application; 2,3,4,5,6,7,8 pieces of scrawny little pieces? Simply more that one and less than some number to resist torquing? Maybe solid steal forgings hot dipped would've been better than concrete and rebar. Or maybe "Titan Deck Foot" blocks would've been better... I didn't see a slump test, I wonder if the 5k smash units strength is being fully realized... Remind me to not make jokes on youtube video comments!!! Someone may misunderstand and take my opinion as fact without checking. Sorry I'm talking out my ass while I type this.
I've been in the concrete business for over 20+ years and I would fire my guys if I saw them only putting one piece of rebar in like that. He probably changed them arm and a leg aswell
Yeah..... So even if this was an 8 bag mix, fiberglass reinforced ready mix, I'd still do a multi layer tower per each pier. A single piece? That doesn't reinforce anything. So if that thing decides to crack, there's nothing to keep it held.
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You are correct, sir. 4 cu ft. However, that 2x2 number is bigger than most pads. Here in No. Va. I go 16" diameter , 24" to frost line, to grade. Which means for my four footings, I will need 20 bags @ 60 lb. That is what I call reasonable overkill. I am replacing a deck for a client who had a deck supported by footings which had a 12" footprint.
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