The 6000XP has become the most popular inverter on this channel, and is currently on backorder. To reserve your spot in the next shipment, check the affiliate links below: Current Connected (30 units left, 2 weeks out): www.currentconnected.com/product/eg4-6000xp-inverter/?ref=wp Signature Solar (100's available, but may take 3+ weeks): signaturesolar.com/eg4-6000xp-hybrid-inverter/?ref=cPwLcVc0SW-BjN If you need a blueprint and parts list, check out my website: 12,000W Schematic: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html 6,000W Schematic: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint-559371.html 0:00 System Design Discussion 3:54 Parallel Operation Surge Testing 5:17 How to Build it Yourself! 8:03 Ground Neutral Bond Discussion 8:48 Combiner Box/Load Center Organization 12:06 Programming Inverters for Parallel Operation 13:49 Conclusion *Does off-grid solar confuse you?* Check out my DIY friendly website for solar system packages and product recommendations, and so much more! www.mobile-solarpower.com *Join our DIY solar community* #1 largest solar forum on the internet for beginners and professionals alike: www.diysolarforum.com *Check out my Book* Best-selling and beginner-friendly guide to 12V off-grid solar! amzn.to/2Aj4dX4 If DIY is not for you, but you love solar and need an offgrid system, check out Tesla Energy! They will price out a system and get your house offgrid: ts.la/william57509 *My DIY Solar Equipment Recommendations (Constantly updated! Check here first):* 12V/48V Lithium Solar Batteries: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-batteries.html Complete Solar System Component Directory: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solarcomponents.html Complete 48V System Blueprint: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html Plug-N-Play System Recommendations: www.mobile-solarpower.com/full-size-systems.html Complete "Add to Cart" 48V System Kits: www.mobile-solarpower.com/complete-48v-solar-kits.html DIY Friendly Air Conditioner/ Heat Pumps: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-friendly-air-conditioners.html *My Favorite Online Stores for DIY Solar Products:* *Signature Solar* Offgrid One-Stop-Shop. Best Value 48V LiFePO4, Victron and Offgrid Specific Heat Pumps: www.signaturesolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek *Current Connected* SOK, Victron, Mr.Cool Heatpumps and High Quality Components. Fantastic customer support: currentconnected.com/?ref=wp *Litime* My favorite 12V budget battery!: www.litime.com/?ref=XBIA62RFcalHns *Epoch Batteries* My favorite high-quality 12V battery: www.epochbatteries.com/products/12v-460ah-lifepo4-battery-ip67-heated-bluetooth-victron-comms?rfsn=7352625.50494d *Renogy* A classic 12V solar store that has been around for ages! DC to DC Chargers and more! renogy.sjv.io/n1VjXx *Rich Solar* Renogy's biggest competitor! Similar products, but at a better price: richsolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek *Battery Hookup* Cheap cell deals bit.ly/2mIxSqt 5% off code: diysolar *Contact Information:* I am NOT available for personal solar system consult! If you wish to contact me, this is my direct email: williamprowsediysolar@gmail.com Join the forum at diysolarforum.com/ if you wish to hang out with myself and others and talk about solar *FTC Disclosure Statement and Disclaimers:* Every video includes some form of paid promotion or sponsorship. Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these. My videos are for educational purposes only. Information is subject to change/update at any time. Electricity is DANGEROUS and can kill. Be smart and use common sense :) DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, An affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com
Looking for panels for my giant roof, what do you suggest again? Was going through your videos but most are 1-4 years old. Googled best type of solar and it said "tandem solar cells" but im not finding that other than from 1 company. Which would be the best bang for buck? Once i pick panels though im stuck with whatever system comes with it to make the power usable. ty ty ❤
You are the man Will! You're making all this so attainable to the average home owner. I've drastically changed my plans based on your incredibly good videos. I'm moving my home almost completely off grid. It's "illegal" for me to completely disconnect from the grid once connected but I'm going to shift my load almost entirely to the "generator" side of the transfer switch. I'll leave 1 LED bulb in the garage for the power company!
@@Channel-gz9hm some of the worst places will "condemn" your home for not having power or water service... Those infrastructure loans have to be paid somehow...
Will, The inverters N-G bond relay is static. It is either on or off based on the setting. It does not automatically change with on or off grid. Assuming your setting is 'off' for the bonding relay, your system is fine as long as it is plugged in. (The bond will come from your AC in). If totally off grid and there is no Bonded AC in, then either set the bonding relay to 'on' in one of the inverters or put the bond in your AC combiner box
I just learned and tested that just now. I didn't have the neutral connected with this configuration and you're right. Need to add that to the blueprint
@@john-arvidkibsgard616 These units are not really designed for mobile applications. To make it work for an RV there needs to be some type of external bonding when not plugged into shore power and no bonding when plugged into shore power. I have seen this done with a closed relay: If shore power is available: the relay is energized and opens the relay, turning off the bond. There can be manual NG bond switches but they are too prone to being left in the wrong position. One thing I saw once was someone set up a receptacle in the stowage compartment to plug the shore power plug into when not on shore power. There was no power at the receptacle, but Neutral and ground were tied together so when the cable is stowed, there is an NG bond.
when it has the grid to pass through it uses that N-G bond, even when not using the actual grid power, right? So even though it could be using solar/battery all the time, the bonding is going all the way back to where ever the original panel in your house is with that bond
@@gg-gn3re yes - when it is tied to grid input, the grid neutral and grounds are connected to the common neutral and ground bus bars inside the inverter that you connect to for your loads, so yeah, the N-G bond is provided by your main panel regardless if the inverter is running the loads or if it is in pass-thru mode.
A followup on required/preferred battery configuration & wiring in this setup would be helpful. I was trying to get a good look at the cabling, but having that be covered would be more comforting. Great video...
This is exactly what I plan to do when building off grid systems for friends and family. I plan to use the wallmount powerpro batteries so they are easily stackable also 😉 thanks for the great video
Can you make a few videos based on budgets. $500, $1000 budget, $2000 budget, $5,000 budget, and a $10,000 budget. Thanks for sharing all the knowledge you do.
It would be great to see how to set up a system that would include wiring steps from house MAIN panel to an automatic transfer switch (critical loads) then to (2) 6000XP's (instead of using multiple "manual" breaker boxes). Also being able to use A/C passthru when batteries/solar/generator aren't available. And also be able to auto-start the generator. Can the 6000EX do all of those things?
I was thinking the same. Could you use some polaris lugs to combine the two interters into a single 4 AWG? My 6500EX system uses a single 60A breaker with a lockout, so migrating to the 6000XP might be difficult if multiple double pole breakers are required in my critical loads panel.
@@coryfrey5040 you could do that just fine. I was considering doing the same thing. One nice thing about Will's suggestion though is the easy ability to disconnect individual inverters from the load center when you are needing to do some maintenance or whatnot while the other inverter continues to run the loads. A lot easier and safer than having to disconnect wires from the Polaris lugs under load - but not that big of a deal if you have the option to shut all the inverters down.
It would be really nice if you would talk about the actual solar panels that you recommend I’ve never seen you talk about which panel for off grid or four RV rooftop use
Yeah same here - the EcoFlow units are nice to have the portability option, but they can only expand so much eh. I ended up selling all my EcoFlow units on Ebay and taking a bath in the process 🤨
When Will did a pre-release of this system last week, I (and others) noticed a ground/neutral bond issue and looks like he fixed that up nicely. Will explained things about this system a lot more clearly this time around anyway so Kudos on that. Awesome job. For instance, one thing he didn't mention last time was that these 6000XP have software controlled ground/neutral bond. I never even knew that kind of thing existed. So cool! I think that a video focusing in on this feature would make an interesting content subject on it's own - maybe compare regular physical bond with how this one works and figure out some kind of demo/test to show what's going on with it. Neat stuff.
Thank you for sharing your insights on Will's video! It's great to see improvements being made in the off-grid solar systems. I agree with you that a video focusing on the software controlled ground/neutral bond feature would be interesting. By the way, have you heard about the Segway Portable PowerStation Cube Series? It's a versatile and powerful backup power solution perfect for outdoor enthusiasts like us. Check it out if you're in need of reliable power on your camping trips or for home backup!
Keep in mind that Will was mistaken in the video about the internal N-G bond setting in the inverter being dynamic. It is not - you either enable it or disable it and it does not change when running loads off the inverter or when it switches to pass-thru mode. If you are tying it to the grid input, then the N-G bond is provided by the main panel and should be disabled in the inverters. If you aren't connecting it to grid input, then it should either be enabled in the inverter, or physically done in the loads panel.
@@intDavidthanks for mentioning this. Also per the manual the 6000XP's default has the N-G bond set to Enabled so if set up with grid pass through that needs to be Disabled as you said. How would you configure this when a critical load panel is set up and the hots and neutrals both are moved from the main panel to the critical load panel? In a grid outage situation would the physical tied main panel N-G bond be ok? Don't want to send errant power down the line but it should return to source (the 6000XP). I guess that also raises the question if the neutrals even need to be moved to the critical load panel.
Will, Just so I understand....your combiner box and electric panel are completely separated from your Grid panel? I could add this to my home and move entire circuits to this distribution center one by one as my system expands?
Wow. Now I'm really ready for a major upgrade. Thanks Will, your work both on YT and the DIY solar website has been a comforting inspiration since my first 4s12v build. Now all we need is a major break through in battery chemistry regarding storage, weight and environment.
Once again - great presentation and explanation. 1 quick question - given that it is 6000 watts - I would have thought that breaker would have been for 50 amps instead of 40 amps. What is the reason for the reduction?
I like this setup. Best I've seen so far on these inverters. However I haven't been able to find a 20 space Square D load center for $45 (ref 3:22). Cheapest I found was about $70.
You're describing all these components, rattling off the specs like it's casual conversation for everybody, and I start to glaze over. Then you note how awesome it is that the EG4 is light enough to use wall anchors....as if finding wall studs would somehow be the DIFFICULT part of this whole process. 😅 It's amazing, thank you.
@13:25 I made it through the video understanding everything you said.... now if I can only muster up the courage to put it into practice. 99% understanding 1% guts to connect the system. :(
Yeah I'll be doing it for sure... I'm all for DIY. Just got the EG4 Heat pump mini split 12k btu 28.5 Seer2 will be installing in 2-3 weeks... or a least when it's not raining. In the process of getting the solar panels and decide on what mounts for a shingle roof... and then apply for permit .... only installing 8x 450w panels to start with.. since in a year or two I might redo the roof since it's over 25 years old now. .... and go for metal roof with standing beams... Busy next summer since I'll be redoing the roof of my parents house... haven't decided shingles or metal since their roof is a little more complex .... my roof is very simple traditional roof.
Expecting mine shortly! I will be using grid and pass through feature. I will add a load center in power shed and extend wires in main panel to new panel and relocate breakers. I assume I would connect neutral and ground wires to the ones in my main panel. Thanks for all you do for the solar community!
You are correct - the grid neutral and ground get connected to the same neutral and ground bus bars inside the 6000xp that you connect the output lines to.
I was getting ready to buy the Schneider Conext XW PRO 6.8KW Hybrid Inverter/Charger but the power and cost saving of the EG4 6000XP can not be ignored. Plus the added saving of internal component integration saves a lot as well. To support powerful loads like a well pump I am getting two 6000XP as you demonstrated in this video.
Also, having two or more units for redundancy, which the 6000XP does very well, is always better than having just one unit, no matter how good it is. That way if something breaks you aren't dead in the water. Things can get expensive with Schneider or Sol-Ark with more than one unit, unfortunately.
I appreciate the multiple integrated functions: disconnect, AC and DC breakers with arc and ground fault built in etc... As a counterpoint, what is the likelihood that one of these individual components fails overtime and needs to be replaced? Does this type of integrated build make repair more difficult or expensive in comparison to replacing an isolated component? Thinking long term, dedicated components are more expensive, but perhaps better for repairability and reliability? What do you think?
I see you have kept the Neutral and the ground separate in the Combiner Box and the Load Box (similar as you state is done for a Subpanel). But I do not see any copper wires attached to those ground bars that wires them to an earth ground (copper rod driven into the ground)!
I have a few wire questions... *You said 2/0 for the batteries is overkill, what size is "right size" appropriate, 1AWG? 400Ah of batteries but the 6000XP can only pull 125A. *What size lug is used on the EG4 6000XP and what size is on the EG4 LL batteries? *And you used 8AWG stranded THHN wire for the 240v grid connections? 6AWG after they combine. *Looks like you used 10AWG stranded ground wires? Thanks Will!
I was hoping that EG4 would come out with an improved 6KW unit and these will be my upgrades from my 2 Growatt 3Kw units powering my system. In September I upgraded my battery to a EG4 13KW power wall and it is working flawlessly. These are more practical and affordable, plus easier to expand if needed. I'm glad I waiting for these much improved units to be available. Hopefully these will have a long lifespan and durability. The built-in breakers and wire management are a great addition and makes for a clean installation. My original system has worked extremely well, but I definitely want to expand and power my whole house now. 3 of these would be less expensive than the 18kw and if 1 fails you would still have power available and you don't have to buy 2 at a time. Just seems a better choice unless you need an exterior installation which most won't need. I already have a separate load center and hooked these up would be extremely easy and clean up the wiring. Will, thanks for the video and update, these units ROCK!
I love how Will not only thoroughly explains the equipment but dives into the details such as wiring, wire size and type, connectors, load center layout, etc… So many others on YT fail to go into this level of detail but we need it!
They definitely ramp up as you increase the loads and PV input. Still though, I don’t find it obnoxious. The 6500’s were basically jet engines. And they made noise all the time. When these aren’t under load they are very quiet. Over all I think they are pretty quiet for what you get out of them.
I just found your vids today. I'm in awe of your knowledge and learning ALOT_ but I am VERY green. I thibk this is the system that i am going with but will be completely off Grid. Can you do an addendum for the wiring (in the panel(s) of the multi box system, for Off Grid only? it got a little confusing with regard to the neutrals and grounds in the panels bcs i think you said that you only do that if your connected to th grid? Sorry if it's obvious. I know nothing about it, and you are Genius at explaining, but stiill I'm confused-re that matter only..Thank you JD ..
hello I recently had to send my 6500ex back because it had high voltage on ac output (140v) s.s gave me a full refund and I bought one of these hopefully it will arrive soon
I would wait to see before you purchased. We have seen a lot of these little wall hangers live a short life.Just my opinion.Maybe this one they got right.But don't hold your breath
@mikeg2321 well hopefully they got it right this time. and I already made the order s.s gave me a store credit for the old inverter( 6500ex ) either way I have to get one already made an investment on solar panels and batteries can't let them sit collecting dust doing nothing . plus if theirs any issues they have 5 years warranty. and s.s is good with their warranties I didn't have any issues returning the 6500ex . I know their some good inverters out their like solark and victron but they are way of my budget.
@@prepsolar787I believe the 6500ex is manufactured by Voltronic where the 6000xp is manufactured by LuxPower Tek. So far the consensus is that the quality on the 6000xp seems to be much better than the Voltronic units, but they're brand new so no one's had enough time to see how long they last yet eh.
Have a quick question, been watching your vids and subbed to your channel for some years now but how do you get all this (solar panels, inverters, etc...) do you buy all this stuff or did they give them to you for free? Just struck me cuz all the stuff we've seen could hook up at least a couple hundred individuals on here for our homes. That's a lot of equipment for off grid homes 👍
@WillProwse yeah I was wondering cuz that's a hell of a lot of equipment and you would need a huge warehouse to store it in 👍 but do you buy all this or is it given to you for testing and reviewing?
@@Shadowking81 some stuff I buy some I get for free. Really doesn't matter these days because I work with so many distributors. Watch my video that covers how I make money on this channel, posted it many years ago
@WillProwse tried posting this before but seems RU-vid removed it for some odd reason, what's your opinion on the JA Solar 530W Solar Panel 144 Cell Bifacial JAM72D30/MB panels? They're on sale for $193.79 down from $223 I might buy 4 of them
Generally speaking it is best to parallel the batteries and have all the inverters sharing the same battery bank. And it is best to parallel the inverters as well, having them share all resources. This gives you a lot of redundancy across the board. You are basically able to maximize your use of resources even when things break. Both inverters are still up if a battery breaks. All the batteries are still available even if an inverter breaks. Etc. Lets say you have 400Ah in four paralleled batteries. As part of the robustness, you program the inverters to never charge more than a combined 200A, allowing full system operation even if half the batteries are non-operational. Often in these systems what is left unsaid is the fact that power electronics in general have a limited life-span. Usually 15 years or so. So when you put together a system you want to take that into account. The key to economical operation is making the maintenance as easy as possible and to not have to bring down the entire house to fix things that break. Three other reasons to share the battery bank: (1) It is a whole lot easier to worry about the state of charge of one battery bank than two. (2) In a parallel configuration if a battery fails or the BMS goes wonky or starts tripping near the top or other problems arise, the other batteries will continue to work and pick up the loads (when designed right), giving you time to correct whatever problem arose. (3) And the C rate going into or out of each battery is generally significantly lower, resulting in a much higher round-trip efficiency. -Matt
Will. Great information. Couple of questions - I need to install TWO EG4 6000XPs … what is the maximum battery capacity I have to have in place and how do they need to be configured ? Also, do you have any idea when the 12000 XP will be available for sale ? Thanks!
Hi Will, its amazing how quickly the technology is moving forward I have been living off grid for 3 yrs now with an older 3 panel x 450w in series to feed a basic 60A srne controller with 2 x 12v x 200ah gel batteries and a 4kva 24v snadi invertor. I live in the Philippines retired n learning about life off grid The 2 batteries were failing so I just bought 2 x 12.8v x 280ah lithium lifepo4 batteries. Gentai brand they seem well made with built in bms Its working but I'm confused about allowing for future upgrades as I regularly run out of power when using grinders and saws etc. Without overspending whats a good way to future proof my little system? I'm planning to add another 3 x 450w solar panels and get additional 2 x 12v x 280ah batteries And so here's where i need some experience and friendly advice Am I better to change my inverter to a 48v and say make it 6or 8kva Or would I need more than a 6 array of 450w panels to power it? What's the way to keep what I have working and have easy time when funds are ready for upgrading to a higher kva invertor? Sorry if its long winded . Look forward to any suggestions
I would do it. A lot of people have reported having issues and failures with the 6000ex. These units by all appearances seem to be much higher quality - but they are brand new so no one knows for sure what their long term reliability will turn out to be. I'm extremely happy with my single 6000xp so far. I even did my best to get it to fail. I put enough loads on the unit to get the inverter up to ~5500 watt load. Then I kicked on my clothes dryer on high heat which added another ~5500 watts. The 6000xp handled the 11,000 watt surge flawlessly for a few seconds and then automatically switched to grid passthrough. After turning off the dryer and having the loads within the capacity of the inverter for a few minutes it automatically switched back to the inverter. All of this without so much as a flicker in the lights on the loads. I'm happy :)
Hi Will. I've been a ham radio operator since 66 and got involved with PV in the 70's. It's unfortunate, but the two typically don't mix, owing to the bad RF Hash (noise) produced by many PV subsystems, inverters being the biggest culprits. The hash makes receiver reception nearly impossible. That said, please consider incorporating some spectrum analysis of the equipment you are reviewing, as PV and battery backup systems are typically used during emergencies (by most), when communication with the outside world is of importance. Best regards.
I'm adding solar to off grid place hawaii, lux pro 6000, 12/415 panels 1 48v 200ah wall mount. Will be running about 75 ft panel to house. Should I use 8ga or is 10ga ok?.
the breakers are there to protect the wires. you did mention that doing it this way won't protect the wires and that if you overload the system, the 100amp breakers will not protect the wires and they will overheat. I don't understand why you didn't swap out the 100amp breakers for a size that would protect those wires, or just put in wires that would be fine with 100amps. Yes, those would be thick wires, but you put one load center right next to the other, so it would be a very short run over 1/0 copper.
Will's videos are so good, I download them and keep them on my Pepper backup SSDs protected in my EMP vault, so I could watch them if things go ... Thanks Wil!
Hi Will, have you reviewed this battery? Couldn't find it in your videos, seems too cheap for 12V 100AH, it's the Gokwh company. I can't put links here but the website is the COMpany name ;+}
I now have a single 6000xp to run my 1.5hp well pump, but it can't stand the surge, would adding a second 6000 as you describe here run it? I run the pump now off of a 6500-w generator
Seems like some good upgrades! I wish they would have improved the generator capability. My EG4 6500's just bit the dust after only two months in operation! I have to send them back and looks like I'll be getting these as a replacement. I really hope they are a bit more plug and play than the 6500 models. I had so many issues with programming them and firmware. Apparently they have an upgrade program now you can trade in your old 6500 unit for the xp. It seems like they were having a lot of issues with them.
@WillProwse I see your using 40A breakers for your load center on the AC out side of the inverters. I asked the question in the forum about that breaker size and was told 40A also. Signature solar just put a new video out similar to your 1-2 days ago and showed load testing. It looks like they used 60A breakers in their set up that’s similar to yours. What is the correct size and why? My plan and goal is 4 of these units for our off grid house and I was thinking 50A breakers to give essentially a 200A service for the house with 4 of these units. Thoughts? Great video. Love the work you do.
Do I use 40 amp breakers for the combiner box. In the specs for the 6000 XP I see it reference 63amp breakers. Is this something different? Also I’m totally off grid so are you saying I should wire my breaker box more like a sub panel and keep the grounds and neutral separate for the 6000 XP?
I just ordered two EG4 6000XP's, two batteries and solar panels. My goal/dream is to connect it to a transfer switch so I can run select circuits off the this setup. I do not plan to involve my county for permitting here in Marion county, Florida. Am I making a mistake? Am I setting myself up for county permit problems? Please advise... (without insults, please)
I don't know about Marion county, but I have lived in Tampa and Fort Lauderdale and you would indeed have permit problems. Miami and Fort Lauderdale I know have very strict codes, and not just electrical.
I can use some help...I bought 2 of the EG4 to replace the 4 Growatt Inverters I have. I want to use the EG4 just as I did with the Growatt...I only want to use solar and battery and have utility only come on if the solar cant keep up with charging because of bad weather days. 9 months out of the year I would switch off my utility breaker and be only on solar and batteries and it worked great no utility bill. The breaker was turned on for the winter months and again the utility would only come on if needed, The EG4 seems to have an issue with not being able to allow solar to charge the batteries while they may be also be discharging to power loads. The EG4 connects to utility to power loads (my house) while the batteries are being charged by solar. This isnt cool because then that would mean that everyday when the sun comes up to charge my batteries from the night before then the utility will come on which means Ill have a utility bill again,,,,thats not off grid and they say these inverters are supposed to be off grid inverters. I tried switching off my utility breaker while the batteries were being charged by solar and my house power switched off. Im hoping its just a setting that I need to change so any help would be nice....thank you
Hey boss. These are just the calculations I needed. Thanks for the explanation! I’m building a larger electrical mobile unit out of an enclosed trailer I’ve converted to be powered by the 6000xp with 10.2kwh server no alternator charge tied. My biggest question is grounding the system in a mobile application with no grid tie. Is grounding to the frame fine because of wood blocks and rubber tires. Or do I need to tie the ground to a rod at every location. I’m worried times I’ll be around pavement only. Thanks again boss!! @willprowse
Excellent video Will, I've been learning a lot with your videos. I just bought 2 of those XP6000 and I am tiring to have the same set up you have but I can't find the combiner box and its not listed on the website. Should I buy 2 load center?
I found your videos as I was shopping for land. The property I found has no electricity available. (At least affordable access). I had never thought that solar was a true option for living a normal life. Your coverage of these products changed my opinion. These 6000xp's seem to fit what I'm looking for. Have you done any comparisons of the currently available panels? How about tracking mounts?
For my eg4 6000, and two batteries; Is it possible that when my batteries are filled up. I can stop using the battery power, and just switch over to the grid or just PV power, and preserve my battery power for when i need it?
Will the 40amp breakers in your inverter input combiner box trip if the 6000xp inverter surges to 12000 watts? I know you’re just testing but if I were designing same solution would your recommend a 60amp breaker as inverter input to load center?
Would the 100A main breaker that Will's "combiner box" load center is using be sufficient if a 3rd EG4 6000XP unit were added in the future? Or would 150A be needed? If I understand correctly, since these max out at 6000W @ 240V, which is 25A, I could use a 100A main breaker and still come in below the 80% load limit? (25A x 3 = 75A, which is below 100A * 80% = 80A)
I think that would be just fine w/ 3 x 6000xp's and the 100 amp load center. One feature to be aware of though is that the 6000xp has a feature that isn't really spelled out in the documentation very well. If you overload the inverter capacity, the inverter will absorb the surge for a few seconds and then automatically switch to grid pass-thru mode until the load drops below the inverter output capacity for a few minutes and then it will switch back to the inverter. When it pass-thru mode, it supports passing up to 50 amps from the grid. Still, with 3 x 6000xp's you'd have to have quite a large load before you could exceed the inverters capacities to have the switch to pass-thru.
@@intDavid Interesting! And thanks for your feedback. In my case, I'll be totally off-grid. Without any grid power available for overload, would these just trip the breaker(s) if I ask for too much surge? That would be totally fine with me, especially if I end up running 3 units, since using that much power at once would definitely be by mistake, haha
I would like you to do a video using an ac combiner box for grid input for 2- 6000xp inverter. I assume its like the combiner senario like the output combiner, but I am not sure.
can you just buy 1 6000xp, no batteries, get 8000w of solar and pass that power straight to charging a tesla? I assume you would need to wire up a 240v outlet from the a/c out of the inverter right? Than just plug in the charging cable to that?
good day,.I am.about to live off grid and am looking for a reliable system that I can set up myself, I will be using solar panels....you seem to be quite knowledgeable in this field, can you direct me to the video I can use for this purpose please
Hello I received 2 6000xp and the 30khw battery… came with four battery cables. How do I hook them up? Both straight to battery? Or do I need to add bus bars before battery? Thank you 😊
What combiner box are you using ? Can't find it. Would really be helpful to list outsourced parts in descriptions. I understand the basics of keeping neutral and ground seperated except for the man grid panel, and expect you simply removed the green screw from the neutral /ground connected bars to free the metal box, then added a bar directly to the metal box for ground, but an explanation of that would have been helpful for anyone with less than my own basic understanding. Not criticising, because you've taught me so much, just a friendly suggestion.
I’m helping a old timer with two of the 6000xp units and this video helps how to combine them. I noticed a couple of discrepancies. The video says the ground neutral bond happens in the inverter automatically but the write up on Wills website says to set it manually using the display. Which is it? Also the manual says to use 8 gauge for each inverter AC connections but the write up shows 10 gauge from the inverters to the AC load center. Thanks.
I wish instructors explaining electrical connections would stop touching contacts, wires, etc. inside electrical panels with their fingers.. You are teaching novice people it's OK to touch those items with their bare hands. Thumbs down for doing this.
Hey Will in this vid you mentioned you didn’t have any red wire at your store. What store might that be? Do you sell all this equipment? If so I would rather buy from you then anyone else. Thanks in advance
Thank you for the great video. I have a question to ask. If you are connecting your grid into the inverters, is that supply on one of your main circuit breaker lines ? Or did you bypass and connect directly from the grids incoming line with splices?
@Will thanks for this video. I tried to see a bit more detail on how you wired the batteries. Is it correct to infer you paralleled them... And connected a positive and negative terminal to each 6000XP... So they are essentially connected to the same paralleled battery?
I sure would like to see a REAL schematic diagram, a drawing, of the AC inputs and AC outputs with the grounds and neutrals and breaker ratings for MAX AC passthrough.
My wife and i are building a new home next spring and i really want to be completely of grid. I'm leaning towards building a system with EG4 products. I would love to know what components you would use for this type of system build. We will have a propane generator for backup. I live in Minnesota. If you have free time it would be awesome to hear what you would build.
Perfect, thanks so much for this step by step guide. How did you run the ground from the main panel? My panel has ground and neutral bonded, not sure how to handle that, any advise?
I have a question about the grid connection. Is this able to run 2 on the same 2 pole 40 amp breaker? Or does each inverter need its own 2 pole 40amp breaker?
