Thanks for making this video!!! My husband and I were at a crossroads on how to go about our barn doors in our little barn- there's so many DIY for interior barn doors- Thanks for making a video on the real deal!!!
I recommend mountting the brakets on the front of the door as you did but with the carriage bolts facing in for security. You simply need to use a forstner drill bit on the backside of the door to create a recces for the nut to allow for clearance. This is how I have done several barn door installations on various outbuildings I have built.
Thank you!!! My sliding barn door was torn off in a wind storm, and I'm faced with rebuilding and rehanging the door. This information was quite helpful.
I posed a question about a month ago and ended answering it myself. I built my own barn doors with a 2x6 frame (half lap/glued at the corners and with Kreg screws), screwed 1x 8 shiplap boards on the back. To increase clearance I added washers between the hangers and the horizontal beam they were lagged into. When the doors were hanging from the track, the track was rotating inward at the bottom, which made the door rub at the top. To counter the rotation I cut two strips of scrap Luxury Vinyl Tile at the lower edge of the track. This made the face of the track plumb and parallel to the beam and yielded about 3/16 inch clearance that stopped the rubbing. Doors slide well now with no rubbing. My wife noticed the problem before I did, so she gets the credit. I wish I had a 14 in bandsaw to make the lap joints. I made them on my table saw, with stacked dado blades. It worked ok, but it was a slow process. Thought about using a router, but thought that would be even slower.
National hardware comes with two end-rail stops that pound into the end of either side of the rail. These U shaped ends (2 per box of two trolleys/door) can be also used as a mid-stop when hanging 2 doors on one rail with the addition of a 3/8 2" hex bolt nut and large washer to lock it into place between the bi-hung door set. My $0.02
Thanks so much for the video on sliding barn doors. I have an older airplane hangar with sliding door trolley problems and I got some good ideas from you here that are going to help me fix them. Thanks, appreciate it!
thanks for the video. my large slider barn door is dragging on the floor so I was looking for the way to adjust the height. Looks like you did this but didn't cover that part in your video. The builder put a case around the track and now it's tough to get to the 2 bolts. Your video shows the rollers so thank you for that detail. hopefully i can get to the nuts to adjust up.
My dad build a wood boat in our attic and it stayed there. It turn out to be the best play house ever. We sold the house with the boat still there ,it was a selling feature.
I saw what appears to be a Norwegian Flag in your woodshop, so I had to "SUBSCRIBE!" 1/8th Norwegian here. Thanks for the video, I'm putting up a sliding door for my 14 x 18 Woodshop and this is the plan and hardware I will use. Smooth and effortless. P.S. I think the bolt arrangement is strictly for security. Threads in and thieves can't dismantle your door from the outside. Keep working with wood my friend.
interesting project. im trying to add a sliding mechanism with rails to a two door cabinet on top of the dryer - it originally was in a dead end corner where no one could ever reach lol. im remodeling my garage and the laundry room in my home the corner, where it was originally, now it has three drawers instead and is more convenient to be filled with laundry stuff. also, i added a counter top - on top - on the dryer and some other overhead stands on top of the laundry washer machine. any way, my sister complained that the cabinet i'd removed from the corner now obstruct her access to the dryer's console, and the only possible solution to it are two options; the first one is to install the cabinet right in the middle, but it would obstruct my access to some of my stuff that is stored on its back the second, and most reasonable solution is to add a sliding rail mechanism to the cabinet and i believe that the barn door system approach really fits its criteria. thanks for the video and your great ideas on building this system that i will put to work on my project
I installed two barn doors I made last this past Wednesday 2-09-2022. But it was my first time. And I set the metal toward the wall, I supossed that because the square holes for the bolts, so, the nuts went to the front. My boss said: looks great George! He liked lt and I liked lt also, just I was not sure if the part of metal was on front or rear of the door… If I could to send you photos, I am sure you would like it too! Edited: I mean the brackets… I saw same comment and wondering same I do! Sorry for my english… I am learning and don't like to use my translator app! 😁
I am in process of doing 6 stall fronts with the same hardware you are using. I hate carriage bolts in general because they are difficult to remove unless locked in the square metal hole, but seem to be necessary for this project for clearance purposes. I learned a lot from your video. The only thing I would say for horse stalls, I would not use the floor stop so close to where the horse would enter the stall. They will get hurt whenever there is an opportunity!
That is Fantastic! I love sliding doors. I put some up in my huge laundry room way back in the mid 1980's and I loved them. The room was really big, and it gave me a nice large closed in area that I could store things behind, without having to build an entire new wall. I hope to be able to have one on the wooden shed we are building on our property this fall, and I really like how you made the inner part of the door so stable, that way I may be able to use a thinner material to cover it. I'm not as strong as I used to be. Loved this, and thank you for the information, it's great. Bless, Sheila PS It's always better to use good hardware, then you almost never have to worry about it again.
Great job, thanks for the video. I am building one for my Chicken Coop (Mansion) because of a restricted space means I cannot install a normal hinged door. Thanks for the tips on controlling the bottom of the door.
Good video, thank you for posting. Your comment about the bracket made me wonder if it could be turned around 180 degrees? That way, the square in the bracket would trap the square under the head of the bolt and the nuts would still be facing you. Would that affect door hang/clearance?
Good info. I'm about to put a privacy fence in and need barn door hardware for two sliding doors. I need to get my old cars in and out and don't want to swing out into the alley.
Great video to watch Don, I understand that it's expensive sometimes to build things but subtract the cost of a tradesperson doing this project & you're way in front & it's rock solid mate, great work 👍👍👍👍
Can you think of any reason we couldn't mount the bracket on the inside (backside) of the door? We put copper flashing with a front lip on the top of the door and then realized we will struggle to get that bracket on over it, thanks!
Question ??? i just Got the Same Trolley the BOX there was a Stuby 1/2 LAG Bolt and 2 Steel 45 Degree ShortPiece Angle Sheet Metal ??/ what is that For ????
Regardless of what the directions say, the bolt for the hangers are on backwards. Any one can unbolt the door by removing the nuts and then knocking the bolts out of the way.
Hey nice video. I build my using exact same system of sliding door hardware you are using. However, couldn’t find where they sell the extra roller for the floor guide in the back. I’m using the same national hardware floor guide roller. Could you help me put the link to where you bought it?
Checking the square while having the tape measure ride up and over a piece of 2x4 at the one corner. That riding up and over does have an affect on length. Keep the tape measure flat
@Homestead Handyman I stumbled upon this video. I'm enclosing the storage space below my deck and wanted to install a similar barn door for the entry. I am doing steel siding instead of vinyl. Do you have a follow up video with the final latch system and vinyl installed? I'm trying to get more knowledge on the subject before I starting the project. How wide is the door in this video? My door will be close to 9 ft wide based on the support post span/opening size. My main question/concern is understanding the necessary offset for mounting the rail to allow the door to pass by the installed steel on the wall. If you have any tips, I would appreciate it! Thanks in advance!
How does the bolt that connects the rollers to the door hold the door up, since there is no nut on the end of the bolt? It seems like if you drill a hole for the bolt in the door it would just fall off. Thanks for the video.
I recognize the roller bracket at 11:47, but I'm wondering where the guide pin came from or what materials used to make the guide pin? I'm looking to do the similar with bypassing doors.
Hi where did you find that metal rolling cam pin? You’re right the roller they provide is missing the extra roller to “sandwich” the door and keep it tightly rolling
Great work! Learned some tips for sure. Quick question...did you just secure the box rail to the wood or did you use a "header" or a spacer? Was there enough clearance so not to rub up against the sides when opening?
Hey, where did you get that stopper from on the bottom right? I've been looking through Stanley/National Hardware and can't seem to find one. Thanks for the video. Some really good hacks there to help make the job easier
I was searching too and found this. www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/farm-and-ranch-supplies/farm-equipment-parts/5667399?store=01522&gclid=CjwKCAjwiaX8BRBZEiwAQQxGx3gLW726rmxTw0rKBoy2BEiiDnViwaVrEPC0MCUnNy5Pj6oCJu9utxoCwb0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
@homestead handyman where did you find the roller on the back of the bottom door guide. National Hardware who makes the hardware you used does not sell them. I am using the same box rail and hangers and door guide and stop and I need that little vertical stainless steel roller!! thanks in advance.
I just looked at it . Not sure if it came with it or I rigged it up. It is basically a nut and bolt going through a bushing. You could use a piece of pvc pipe or look for the bushing in the specialty hardware boxes at the big box stores. Then just find a nut and bolt to go through it. Looks like about 1/2 diameter x 1-1/2"long. Hope this helps🤠
Do you happen to have a list of hardware materials you bought and used for the tracks & mounting hardware? I’m building doors now and I’m trying to track down all the parts for it.
