Thanks for this video. You inspired me to build a hydraulic pedal set with this design using real floor mounted pedals. Got tired of waiting for higher end pedals sets (they are always out of stock) so I'm building my own. For now I'm only building a hydraulic brake and a hall sensor accelerator pedal mounted on a 80/20 frame. Clutch will come later.
@@JoshMullen35 can i use a 4350 psi version because i have looked everywhere at my local e shop and theres none except generator ones which dont have signal output
Hey Josh. Your videos are amazing. I came for the sim handbrake video only to realize that you were a real drifter too. Now I know you are the one who can give me a definite answer to the question that has been bugging me for quite a long time. I am a sim racing enthusiast myself with the skill level below 1% than yours, but I am also an IT engineer who likes math, physics and to tinker with various projects. I've been designing my own load cell based handbrake solution. The prototype is working great and I love the non-linearity that the load sensor provides, similarly to the pressure sensor in your build. The last thing I've been trying to achieve was realism in the hand feel. I've done a lot of research as far as mechanics of hydraulic brakes go. What I cannot understand is why so many top-tier designs use hydraulics in their products at all. How is this different from removing the line completely and pushing against the spring/poly bushing directly? Yes, it is true that different bore sizes of the master and slave can give you a different input/output pressure rate, but at the end of the day the rate is still linear, pressing against a spring or poly bushing. So if, say, your hydraulic system gives you 2x pressure on the slave side, all it actually means is that it takes you twice less force to pull the HB, to compress a given spring by a certain length. Wouldn't it be the same as removing the hydro lines completely, and press HB directly against a spring that has twice less compression rate than the original one? Just twice less pounds per inch. How would this feel differently in the hand? As a real racer, can you perhaps shed some more light on it. Maybe there is something beyond raw physics that I am missing out? Thank you very much! I know the video is not recent, but I hope you'll notice my comment anyway and have some free time to reply. Cheers!
This is a brilliant tutorial, and inspired me to build my own. 1 little critique for your fluid transfer system though, you only need thread sealant on taper threads (npt), the tape/sealant doesn't actually do the sealing; it promotes a friction weld between the male/female threads.
Thanks for the great how-to! So many other ones replace the hydraulics with a spring and use a potentiometer. This must feel 1000x better. Otdering my parts tonight. Safety Tip for the non-initiated: brake fluid is nasty stuff so be careful and bleed your system outside (or in the garage). Probably not something you want to do at your kitchen table. Catch it in a clean container (that you can toss afterward) and either put it back in the reservoir or bottle. Nice Tuerck shift knob, BTW.
I’m Going the potentiometer route too, except I’m still going to incorporate the slave cylinder. Going to use an usb arduino and take the pressure sensor out of the stainless braided line. It will take some soldering but It’s cheaper
Great video. Very well explained and gives the viewer confidence to do it themselves. Just for personal knowledge. AN fittings aren't aircraft fittings the AN stands for Army Navy. They do use them on aircraft but it was a system designed originally for the Army and Navy.
Please, can you explain how you made the conections in the dsd 12 bit controler? The electronic part of the tutorial is not clear for me. Very thanks and good work.
You don't need an Arduino, you basically wire the 5v+ and - to the power outlet on the board, then connect the signal wire to one of the pads on the joystick input. ;)
So i took a screen shot at the start of the video to zoom on and it looks to me as if the 3 wires are red black and green coming off the pressure sensor and they are the same colour on the Auduino Cable so i guess he just cuts one end off and connects the wires colour for colour so red to red black to black the green to green and plug the other end into the DSD USB board. Kinda strange he doesn't cover this and presumes everyone will be aware of it but clearly not the case. Can not believe how much companies are charging for a pre built one. some of their prices are ridiculous
Great video everything is clear the build is easy bit looking at the prices of each component buying a fully assembled one comes to about the same price but nothing to source and no building. Specifically if your like me in Canada where the handbrake assembly along is close to 400$ another 150$ for the slave 80$ for a board and another 100$ in hardware and fluid. With good deals I can see this being a great option just not is my market sadly.
@JoshMullen35 didn't say it was a good way to make a HB it's just a shame the parts are so expensive would make this a great option. Like many have said before showing how to connect the electronics would have been helpful to many but I did say this was a good option or maybe you only saw my parts breakdown 😉
You will need an arduino that will mimic an HID (human input device/joystick) and it will be a digital sensor. Check out this Button Box tutorial. Use the pressure sensor in place of a rotary encoder. You will only need to solder a few wires. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hSU630uGv2U.html - You will need an ATTiny85. - The sensor has 3 wires. Red goes to 5v on the arduino. Black is ground. Then attach the signal wire to any GPIO (General Purpose Input Output) pin. - Download the Arduino IDE - Modify the HID arduino script so that the GPIO pin matches the one the sensor is wired to.
Hey, awesome video!❤ I thought buying me a loadcell handbrake, but if I can get a hydraulic one for the same price, i probably will do it.😅 I've got a few questions: 1. Do I need the expensive clutch cylinder or can I buy a cheap one from Aliexpress? (It has no bleeder, just one input) 2. Why do I need the whole complex system, if i can just put the elastomers directly on the handbrake and the pressure sensor also directly on the handbrake output?
josh, amazing vids and settup. do you think its possible to use this handbrake and controller for a trunk mounted linear actuated brake by wire handbrake system? im considering something like this for the handbrake side of things.
What the pros/cons of using the slave cylinder vs reading the pressure directly off the handbrake? I assume it gives you greater control of the force of the handbrake?
Thank you for this. However could you elaborate on the how to connect the pressure sensor to the DSD board? I’m assuming the lose wires are plugged into the female to female cable?
Can you add another pressure switch for a brake pedal to the dsd controller? Is the Controller capable of working all controls, throttle, brake, handbrake and clutch? I am a total newbie to all this. The fabrication of the cockpit and controls is easy enough i'd get stuck on the electronics, but if the controller is capable i'll get some help to wire everything. Thanks Rich.
@@Rudys2000 Because the slave cylinder here is A) used to get a more accurate feel of the wheels locking up and B) used to bleed the air from the fluid. If you just hook up a pressure sensor directly to the master cylinder how are you going to bleed the air from it? Without bleeding the air from it the handbrake probably isn't going to move much. I mean you can just get rid of the master/slave cylinder altogether which is what most of the cheap handbrakes do but then you have to have it spring loaded instead.
wish my damn logitech wheel worked properly like yours (its not logitech i know), no matter what i do, i have to manually flick all the time, i cant just let go of the wheel and have it flick itself around
I think the setting is "spring" or "return to center force" or something like that, don't be afraid to mess around with settings to find what feels best for you.
@@coryhalvorson8874 It is the same as a real car he uses the momentum of the car amd lets go of the wheel as he power slides and it spins back in his hands no difference to a real drift car. Get a DD wheel it is so easy where as on my Thrustmaster i struggled
You could use water but it may cause rusting and corrosion of the internals. Water isnt used in brake systems because of its lower boiling point that can easily turn into a gas (creating air in your lines) and "corrosive" properties in conjunction with metal and oxygen. DOT rated fluids are denser, have a higher boiling point, and are less compressible than water. www.quora.com/Why-can%E2%80%99t-we-use-water-instead-of-braking-fluid-in-a-braking-system
Most people don't use break fluid in sim rigs as it is 100% pointless as no heat will going through it, so you do not need it to have a high boiling point. You should use power steering fluid or mineral oil instead, there is absolutely no difference in feel. When you buy hydraulic pedals etc for sim racing such as ricmotech real gear they use power steering fluid., I also use power steering fluid. Bike suspension fork fluid is also good as you can choose different weight oils but i doubt that makes any difference, as long as the oil pulls the cylinder in, it will work, water will also work but will cause rust and may go stale etc and wont lubricate anything so don't use that.
Vax Dev Team I assume it’s because the DSD board is designed for sim racing so it’s preprogrammed, if you’re wanting to save a little more on costs you could probably go for an Arduino and would have to program it yourself
JoshMullen35 I been looking around for a year. My Clubsport v1 pedals and Porsche Wheel turbo S with a half ass setup have served me well over the years, but looking to upgrade. Plan on doing a hydraulic hand brake myself. Was looking to do wilwood pedals but idk. Sucks can't try anything for the price of the stuff lol.
Can someone explain how companies are charging over £600 for there handbrake that looks just like this, am i missing something special they have this doesn't lol. Does anyone have a total price for this build, im in the UK but i can work out what ever currency you use
@@JoshMullen35 man that’s awesome there is a set of pedals made by sim coaches using the same wilwood slave, but I have seen a video where they leak but they don’t have the washer like you to protect the face of the unit
Dude that video tutorial is a fking awsome fonaly i can build my own thanx mate for tmdetailed info and so on🎉🎉🫡👌🤙and u also can use that hydraulic mode on brake pedal😉
@@JoshMullen35 Can u use a regular Pressure sensor (oil, fuel) M12, 10Bar, 5V or is it need to be 1000psi sensor? I also thinking to use Motorcycle Hydraulic Clutch Slave pull Cylinder i have laying around motorcycle brakes !!!
