How to Calculate the Correct Depth for a Shower Valve so it Finishes Flush with the Finished Wall 

I must agree with others on here....your video is a must watch for DIYers. Thanks a bunch!

I'm a plumbing contractor with 43 years experience and I can tell you no matter how well you plan the tile installers can find a way to screw you, if you are doing the tile yourself you can control the results way more effectively

Thanks for your break down for depth of a diverter, being a professional plumber, I normally will ballpark 1" of material from stud to finish wall( with tile) 1/2 for board, 1/8 for thin set, 1/4-3/8 for tile. The width of a tape measure is about an inch so holding it horizontally will give you a good idea of finish wall. Of course different manufacturers have different guides. Keep up the good work!

You did this like an engineer... and as someone who overcomplicates everything, I greatly appreciate it because while it may be more complicated than what a professional would do, it will give me peace of mind knowing the depth is right BEFORE I start building out the wall. Love finding people that think like I do.

Did tub pull walk-in shower build. Guessed at valve depth. Nailed it!!

Great video and simple explanation. I checked my plumber’s install and it was way off. Got it adjusted before we covered up the walls. Thanks!

I have literally installed thousands (Apartments, hotels, etc) of these Moen valves and this is how we do it. For a 2x4 wall and a Moen valve...Cut 2x4 backing board to width between studs in wall where you plan to mount your new Moen valve. Mount 2x4 backing board horizontally flush to the very back of the 2x4 studs in wall. Once mounted that will leave you around 2" from the face of the stud wall and 3" to the approximate finished tile wall. Mount new Moen valve to 2x4 horizontal brace with (2) 2" screws. Make sure the valve is plumb in all directions coming out of the wall so your trim will mount flush. Mount Moen tile ring back on valve and you are done.

Thanks for breaking all that down for us newbies. Was concerned the plumber set mine too shallow now I can doublecheck before I start tiling.

Really appreciate you putting this video out here. Can’t believe that Moen isn’t capable of explaining this to their customers in an easy format like this. My shower kit had generic instructions for tub/shower and I need shower only. So the valve height was going to be low like on a tub. It didn’t explain to measure the depth like you did. Couldn’t find what I needed on their website so what does a homeowner do? Go to RU-vid. Thanks again.

simply the best :) Sir!

Thx!!

Thank you! 🙂

Good 👍

Cool vid… using a 1/4 float do you actually count a full 1/4 inch with that? Bc with a 1/4 trial 90% of the time you don’t get a 1/4 inch high off the ground notch from the trial bc most ppl don’t hold it perfectly at the correct angle to actually get a 1/4 notch but also by time you push your tile down it’s more like 3/16- 1/8” notch.. I know the valve handles has about 1-2” of play so it doesn’t matter with most handles but just curious

15/16

do these measurement work on a surround shower kit. Thanks

all that explanation was necessary

What do you mean when you say thickness of the float ? What is a float

What if i don't have the mud box?

You didn’t overcomplicate this at all. How else would you set the depth? I suppose you could gather all the materials and lay them on the studs and mark the depth. Sounds like some of these commenters just guess and hope it comes out right.

Or just look at the valves diagram dimensions.

Simply make a template of the wall and that’s it

that plastic guard is tilted

I cut it twice and it was still to short.Millimetres easy

Wow. Who does all that. Youre better off calling a plumber or at least a tile setter. You realize the the escusion plate is adjustable dont you?

Wtf???

C’mon way too much bs measurements and not enough actual.

You came to the correct depth, but it was painful listening to you trying to figure out elementary math

Why not adjust the block that the value is sitting on from the hole that u cut instead dealing with all these fractions .math doesn’t works in real world when you’re talking about multiple layers of cement thickness and clothes and rubber. U might as well calculate moisture and temperature because that affects the expand and contract of the materials. U got a formula for that? And I’m Asian I don’t deal with this sht