I think you can rotate more in your heel-side turn, or start with a more open position. I notice your upper body doesn’t catch up with your lower body sometimes especially when you ride goofy. Your hips is leaning to the tip. Your head is leaning to the tail 1:10:30 .If you open your hips and shoulders more, you can 1.have a straighter forward leg, hence higher edge angle 2.activate your abs to pull your upper body forward
Interesting. I think the reason he is able to carve so well on heelside with a duck stance is precisely because his stance is very 'closed'. If you ride a negative angle on your back foot (duck stance) then as soon as you open up to your direction of travel on the heelside, you have no power/control/edge angle on your back foot and will wash out. I think this is the exact reason that *everyone* who rides duck cannot carve deep on heelside. It's actually really hard to not open up to your direction of travel because I think in a balance and natural movement sense it is quite awkward, hence rarely done well. I think the technique shown in this vid is the 'gold standard' for heelside carving with a duck stance, well done! I'm interested to know if others have thought about this?
I"m interested to know what you think about this @shmsnow because you talk about opening your upper body on heelside, but you don't actually do it (seen by the fact that your front knee is always driving under your front armpit). The term 'opening' is confusing, because opening to the direction of travel has the opposite affect toe to heel. On toeside, it means your board is turning ahead of your body and you will naturally get more edge angle on your back foot (stable) on heelside being 'open' means turning your body ahead of your board and will mean naturally less edge angle on your back foot (unstable). I think it's worth thinking about this, because it is critical for duck heelsides.
@@michaelgrec You’re correct. That’s why you see most of the people carving heelside closed and toeside open. That’s a good technique. You talked about opening up cause wash out. This could happen but not necessarily. If you do a very closed heelside carve and you use the same posture to ride switch. You’re actually open. Same thing apply to the toeside. So from heel-toe, you can do closed-open, open-open, closed-closed, open-closed. The closed-open is like counter rotation. The open-closed is neutral position. The open-open is open position. The closed-closed is reversed carve. All these are my personal opinions.
This man is posting university level snowboarding content out here for free!! Instant favorite. It has never been explained this well--the side by side board camber and carving demonstration is genius. Thank you SHM!
Спасибо, друг. Очень хорошо подготовленный материал. Я работаю инструктором по сноуборду в России, порой не имею нужного видео. Твоё сохранил. Хорошо, что есть субтитры на русском языке. Ещё раз спасибо!!!!!
Thanks for your thorough video. I've watched both of them as well as Ryan's countless times and more recently the Japanese carvers. Can't wait to start riding again on my custom Knapton Twin.
Bruh I’ve been watching Malcolm Moore and all the big snowboarding guys, and integrating their knowledge into my notes so I can learn to carve, and you just post everything I learned here in one one hour long video haha. There’s minor differences ofc but the principles are all here
Can't wait for part three, thank you so much for the breakdown. The level of detail shows just how much you are trying to convey your knowledge. Will start practicing next weekend 🤙🏾🤙🏾
Just discovered your channel yesterday and I am already a big fan! Very well made videos and I can't wait to try out the curving techniques you showed in these videos! Keep up with the good work!
Gheeeez, this is so good! Been riding for over decades, and still learning and shifting stances slightly. But there’s a hold on progression if half you do, is “naturally learned”. Your high-end breakdown really helps to hold évery detail to the light, improve and shred the gnar even harder than ever. F**k yeah! 😎🤘🏼 ✌🏼
With a smaller sidecut. You can beef up your sidecut radius if you want to keep going fast while you make short turns, but you'll be going much faster on average!
The terminology can get so confusing. "Down-weighting" . . . as per your definition, we are extending our legs during the transition (i.e., during the edge change). But in doing so, we are NOT adding weight to the board. Rather the opposite, we are popping up and briefly unweighting the board. So, may I very respectfully suggest we call this particular edge change up-unweighting, not down-weighting? Again, to release the board and perform the edge change, we must temporarily unweight the board before driving it back down into its next carve. We can do this either by dropping down (down-unweighting), wherein we are maximally compressed during the edge change and maximally extended during the apex of the carve (this is the Euro-carve, btw). Or popping up (up-unweighting), wherein we are maximally extended during the edge change and maximally compressed at the apex of the turn (this is the alpine-carve). In neither case are we "weighting" the board during the transition. A minor technical squabble over terminology for some, perhaps. But for me, the term "down-weighted turn" is confusing and counter-intuitive. Surely, the opposite of the "down-unweighted turn" is the "up-unweighted turn"? Otherwise, another awesome video. Thank you so much for all your hard work, technical insight, and lucid explanation. You are greatly appreciated, Seung!
I had a hard time reading this, not because your insights were wrong, but the terminology is admittedly confusing. I completely agree with what you are saying! And I wish I could change the video, but I can't remake this one, and I've been calling the advanced eurocarve style turns "downunweighted turns" for a long time. Force of habit that I'll try to change in the future!
Hi, love your incredible detail to attention and a bit of technical details. I am wondering if you can shine some light on sidecut radius. It seems like, with the same board and sidecut, you can carve different radius turns depending on technique? Thx.
Yes. All boards will make larger or smaller turns on average according to their side cut. As in, using the same technique on a 9m board will yield a smaller turn compared to using the same technique on a 16m board. Advanced techniques that help bend and tilt the board more will decrease the turn radius up to a certain point. There is a range of possible turn radii for each board according to its base turn radius, dependent on how much it is bent. Hope this helps.
Keep coming back to your great videos and can't wait for the season to really start! One question that' preying on my mind: when will part III be available?? 😬 really looking forward to seeing it!! These videos are awesome, should get tons more views!!
@@shmsnow Part II was awesome! And I didn't mean to be greedy or want to rush you as I know that putting out great content like that takes time. Am just excited :) but I do understand that it will take a while. Thank sou for investing your time to make us better!!
Love your videos man.. Came by part 1 thru some kinda accident but ended up watching the whole thing.. Love part 2 and hopefully we can get more videos like this in the future... Just a quick question tho.. Whats your thoughts/opinions on riser plates.. My snowboard has a 260 waist which tbh I would like it to be a tad bit wider but its not just about carving for me I would like to do some freestyles butters/small jumps/ sidehits which I think if I went too big with the snowboartd waist would impact performances on these things. Is it worth it to get risers to be able to enjoy both of both worlds or would you not recommend it and just use a different snowboard for different stuff. =)
Riser plates are a great way to reduce overhang! I have a couple of friends that use plates and say that it reduces overhang a decent amount, without noticeable reduction in responsiveness.
hey sung, awesome videos!! what is your boot size and weight? i have size 11s and weigh 175, so i am not sure whether a donek 5 flex might be too soft, im also trying to decide between 30cm and 29.5cm waist width.
If you want to make quick snappy carves like mine, you want something around a 6 -7 flex. If you want to make large, laid out carves like Knapton, you want a stiffer board that holds it shape during speed, something around a 8 - 9 flex. Just my opinion, so take it with a grain of salt!
i have a 29cm standard knapton twin with a donek flex of 9 at 175lbs. do you think that’s too stiff? i have been meaning to get another donek since i want something a bit wider, what flex would be ideal do you think?
Depends on the sidecut. Larger laid out turns require a large sidecut, which need bigger turns, more speed, more cent force, require a stabler and stiffer board. Smaller turns, smaller sidecut, less speed and cent force, requires a not as stiff board.
Learning positive angles is much harder initially, but in terms of the highest levels of performance forward stances are objectively superior for carving, mainly due to that already open upper body like you said.
@@shmsnow that's and interesting perspective I've never considered - that it might be harder to learn initially with posi posi. I learned to ride in the early 90s when really posi posi was the only game in town so I guess I just don't know any different. I can imagine though that learning to side slip, do falling leaf etc with a fairly standard duck stance is probably a lot easier than doing it with +30 +15 which I think is what I was doing back when I was a beginner.
@@Daz555Daz Learning with posi posi sounds absolutely crazy and much more difficult than learning at first with duckstance. You see it here all the time here with Big Snow, though - people start their first days snowboarding with their friends learning duckstance, and a few months later they change their stance to try and learn directional carving as directed by their instructors. Who knows though, maybe learning sideslipping from the beginning with positive angles makes it easier to learn how to carve directional.
@@shmsnow how do you find the stability in longer higher speed carves? mine is a 7/10 stiffness and a 8.5 sidecut and i found it zips too quickly out of eurocarves but has very good higher speed stability. the stiffness makes tail rolls a challenge but nose rolls not an issue. in your opinion would stepping up to a 10+ sidecut radius and reducing the stiffness while making for longer eurocarves potentially reduce the higher speed stability with a softer board be self defeating just to make for easier butters? or in your opinion the extra stiffness worth it to support the longer higher speed laid out carves?
@@piersroberts9124 I prefer making shorter turns, but that's probably just a product of my environment. If you like making much higher speed, longer carves, you definitely want to step to a larger sidecut radius, and get a stiffer board so that it maintains it shape during during those high speed, large radius, drawn out carves. But honestly, I can't say for sure about how a softer board with a larger sidecut would behave in large radius fast carved turns. A softer board would make it easier to butter and bend for shorter turns, but like you said, it directly goes against the fact that you should generally have a stiffer board for higher sidecut radii. In my opinion, personally don't approve of it especially if you're trying to eurocarve, but take my opinion with a grain of salt because I've never ridden a board with that exact, large sidecut but low flex specs. It'd be interesting though. If you look at Knapton, his boards are extremely stiff and his sidecuts are basically 20 meters now, but he can still butter. (he might be an exception though because he's just a beast like that).
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