Might as-well throw in my own trick of the trade. Wrapping the wax iron in a rag that has no elastane (not stretchy), and dry chalking the board (the same way the “pro” method used in the video); and then wicking the the heated rag with wax. All of this will result in a extremely fast hot wax but it provides more benefits such as not having to use paper towel and the rag will always be wicked and ready to go so if you work in a tuning shop you can wax boards back to back! Ps. Avoid molybdenum waxes! It’s a carcinogen and breathing in fumes will result in health issues later on.
Hey just wondering what you mean by wicking the wax. The towel method sounds like the best since you can save on paper towels. Also do you wash the rag afterwards or is the leftover wax beneficial for the next time?
I would think that if your not consistently waxing boards everyday like a shop, then you would just put the iron and rag in a clean bag so dust doesn't get on it until the next wax session.@@SuperXDARKSTAR
@@lequacken9801how thick does the rag have to be? can i use a thin cloth one? microfiber? and by the way, if I use a paper towel, won't it rip apart if i wet it?
@@romaniasvic213 a thin rag will help absorb less heat and absorb less wax. So I would use a thin rag dedicated to waxing. Also some other comments have said that wetting the towel/rag is unnecessary.
Love the long format, in-depth explanation of how to do things. There are enough 5 min videos out there. Really going into the knitty gritty of these techniques is very very helpful
Your illustration of the microstructures (pores @ 8:00) is very helpful! It provides clarity on the importance of waxing for maintenance. Thank you for the visual insight!
Madre mía es el video más completo y mejor narrado que he visto en todo Internet. De verdad muchas muchas gracias por todo tu ayuda. Aquí tienes un nuevo suscriptor
Thank you for the time you put into this, this guide is extremely well made and very in depth. I'll definately be trying the paper towel method since I've started to hate waxing since it takes so long.
Nice video. Here are a few more tips on the "scrapless" wax method. - Fiberlene Pro towels are the best, but can be expensive. Avoid normal Fiberlene as it is too thin and breaks or rips. - Blue shop paper towels are available everywhere and work about the same as Fiberlene Pro. You might need to bump the temp on the iron 1C to account for the additional thermo mass. You also don't need to get them wet first. For brushing, you should do the brass brush from tail to tip. The nylon and horsehair brushing goes from tip to tail. There are reasons for this that come down to the "hairs" of the p-tex and how they should be upright for the maximum benefit during waxing. Also, you don't need the second metal brush after waxing.
using the brass brush right after the wax application and (srape or towel method) makes me nervous that I'm scraping too much! So you are saying not to use the brass brush after waxing? only prior to remove old wax? So after wax just use nylon and horsehair?
Also, so you don't recommend wetting the towels? I have the blue shop towels, going to be using those. What is the pro/con of wetting the towel during the hot wipe?
@@kentonharman4243 Got it. Seems like one person just did it once and everyone copies. I'll try without first and see how that works (no steam, just paper towel). Thanks
Wow! Great in depth video about waxing :D. I am a nerd when it comes to these things and always want to know all the details, which not every workshop provides. You've answered every question I had, so really appreciate the effort you've put in to this video ^^. Looking forward to your next vids!
Oh. My. God. I tried this paper towel thing today and it worked GOOD AF!!! Just to mention, single paper towel tore apart so I just used double towel )))
Thanks for this video. I'm going to try to start waxing my kids and my board soon and this will be very helpful! Also cool to see another Big Snow local!
thank you so much for an in depth video and also educating all of us on my you wax and why you should be waxing. i really enjoyed it and thank you again dude!
This is great, I love the idea of using less wax and not making such a huge mess! Can you tell me why you use a wet paper towel? Is it just to avoid burning the paper? Does it still absorb as much wax? I have heard of people using brown paper towels (not sure why brown ones specifically) in place of fiberlene, but haven't seen mention of wetting them anywhere else. Thanks!
Just consider the paper towel as a dollar store version of fiberlene. Does the same job, just not as well, but again we’re not racers so we don’t need absolute perfection. And yes, we use water so the paper towel doesn’t burn up.
(Please note, I've re-edited...) Great video, information, demonstration and content input. Much appreciated, thank you. Just I have some different ideas and understandings on some things mentioned. 1. Wouldn't you be infusing and mixing water molecules into the wax and into the base also with that ironing method? I guess it's not a big problem thou it's only at the beginning with a small amount before the water is evaporated. 2. I don't scrape at all because I prioritise delayed base drying, and a quicker and lasting job over performance and I don't find much slow down personally. I do it by using an all temp wax, leaving only a very thin layer, streaking it by running the iron from tip to tail, and then riding in not too cold or extreme conditions. (Have you ever tried it this way?) This is the first time I've ever heard off the concept that excess wax is damaging the board and I have doubt that it actually does, especially in conditions where the board isn't sticking much to the snow. If anything, it provides better protection for long against base burn, especially if the snow is icy, hard and coarse like sandpaper, then it is defending it by providing a lasting protective barrier, which would otherwise be gone by the end of the day, causing burn in turn sealing the base pores. If excess wax does rip out micro bits of base, then wouldn't that (although age it quicker) at least also have some advantage of making it more porous, allowing the it to hold more wax and become faster over its lifespan? (I've heard people saying that the base becomes faster over the span of its life if you keep waxing it too). Additionally wax is softer and has a lower melting point than plastic, and so I don't see how greater ride friction (which is mainly just under foot) with some excess wax can really damage it, or how the scraping and structuring procedures are really much different otherwise to causing base wear and tear. I'm really interested in what your thoughts are on this? Thank you.
I'm not sure about the water infusion concept, but I find this method only works with water. Using a dry paper towel produces less than desirable results. I carve/freeride, meaning I primarily ride on groomers and not much else, meaning I do need a fast base. Our priorities are different, and while I'm mind boggled that you don't scrape, I can respect your opinion on delayed base drying - it's my first time hearing that it can last longer than a traditional wax (paper towel method or otherwise). Check out this old forum on wax opinions by skiers. May not be accurate, but some good information here. snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=6730
Awesome tutorial! I sub + liked the video. Maybe if you could also add a sharpening guide. And also, what you do first? Wax and then sharpen. Or sharpen and after wax?
Sharpen, then wax. Sharpening isn’t too hard, just find what angles your edges are at, then get a diamond stone and guide and pass them. Video on this coming soon, though.
I've considered getting a proper waxing iron but I've got sort of a sentimental attachment to the cheap travel iron I bought for waxing about 30 years ago - so I guess I'll keep using it until it breaks!
Nice donek man! I just got one this season and it’s beautiful. And awesome video, super in depth. I gotta ask though, do you think a little excess wax really damages the base that much though? I’ve always felt like the protection from small debris was worth leaving a little (basically not brushing it all out or lightly brushing).
Get rid of all of it; I take a lot of this knowledge from ski racers, who wax and polish their bases far more than boarders ever will. It'll be healthier for your base in the long run. Happy waxing!
I have a Bataleon Goliath 2011/12 with 3BT (Triple Base Tech). Do you have a video, how to wax and then to scrape a Bataleon Goliath 2011/12? Please! So I can see how to wax and then scrape my board with 3TB (Triple Base Tech). (I'm sorry for, if my English is bit bad).
Unfortunately, the only way to wax Bataleon boards the traditional wax/scrape way is to just do it normally. Be careful around the rounded areas on the base when scraping as you can damage your base if you scrape too aggressively.
Given how comprehensive this is I’m surprised you didn’t address fluoros esp since you recommend a bunch at the end. HF is fast but overkill for most people. Not to mention it’s not allowed at more and more mountains as well as hazardous to breathe. Love the vid tho :)
You can perfectly wax boards with a normal iron, did it for years, just dont steam, or have one without holes, and ofc dont iron clothes ever with it after it..
Great video I’m definitely interested in trying your paper towel waxing method thanks for sharing. Just some clarification do you use the same piece of paper towel for the whole base or change it after each pass? and if you do only use one piece for the whole base do you re-wet it between each pass?
I just use one piece for the whole base, but that’s because my boards are usually always spotless. If you know your base is really dirty, you can use as many pieces of paper towel as you like. You don’t need to re-wet the paper towels though.
They sell plastic wax scrapers sharpeners online. You pass the sharpener through them and sharpen up the edges of the scraper. They’re well worth the money.
Great informative video. Some say if the board has a structured base that wax is unnecessary-just keep it clean. Why do you think that’s a bad idea? Thanks
I might be misinterpreting the quote, but I think every base has to be waxed? If structure is being talked about waxing definitely always goes hand in hand with it.
Appreciate your tutorial, the method really works nice and the wax lasts at least 40-50km on snow at env. temp of -4 - +4 Celsius with appropriate Swix Wax! But be careful with wet towels, steam from mine short-circuited the iron (I have Toko T14), which led to a change of PCB board (the heating unit didn't get any damage). Maybe it's a rare case and I was just unlucky, but I'd recommend using a dry towel instead or Fiberlene PRO as proposed below. Anyway, the video is great and the explanation of how the wax really works with this paper animation looks lovely!😊
I got to be honest that was a thorough wax!! I don't do all that. Wipe down with goofoff for the hydrocarbons. Scrub with scotch Brite. Melt a bunch of waz and spread it all over the board. Let cool down for an hour. Scrap off then scotch Brite in parallel to give it structure. It's worked for 30 years. I am not good enough to notice.I want a video on edge tuning!!
To each their own. This is just the cusp of the world of waxing - but most people don't need to go this far. I have an edge tuning video on my channel!
Silly question. Prior to soft metal brushing, do you use a base prep cleaner? or does the brushing negate the need to do that? I have seen other pros clean the board first. Thanks for a really well done and thought out video.
Base cleaner nukes the base - it cleans out all the much and dirt in your base, but it dries out the base heavily if used too often. Use sparingly, and to maintain the base for longer use a soft (or heavy) metal prush prewax.
Hi, thanks for the video. Wanted to know what are your thoughts on liquid wax? I’ve been using it but it doesn’t seem to provide as much of a layer as compared to the wax that you’re using. Thanks!
Any tips to combat the harsh, and often very dirty snow at big snow? Ive been using graphite wax to keep the oils and dirty out which has been helping, but I am still having to clean my base after every big snow visit from the grime and dirt in the snow and on the features.
Yea, Big Snow snow is really dirty. The best way to keep your base clean, but more importantly healthy, is just to wax frequently. Base cleaner is a last resort, and waxing frequently pulls out dirt out of the base better than base cleaner, and will keep your board's base usable in the long run.
@@shmsnow I have been using the Pape towel method for over a month. I highly recommend any dome rider to use this method, especially with how often we must wax. Efficient, effective, and cost saving!
I used to use step-ons until I realized that their massive heelcups stop any attempt at a good heelside carve with duckstance. So I don't use them anymore.
The wax while economically friendly isn't the fastest, but the tools provided in the kit are good enough for the most basic of waxes. Just stick a roll of paper towel and replace the wax with the ones I use and you're good to go, IMO.
Amazing video, thank you @SHM SNOW ! But,. I'm having trouble chalking on the unheated wax onto the board (paper towel method), it barely seems to come off. Any tips?
Hi it is a great video to learn how to wax snowboard. Thank you so much for taking this video. BTW, I cannot find the Amazon link at the description, can you pm to me? Thanks so much 😊
Just stfu and start the timer it will be done quicker, it actually takes longer, including scraping, and waiting for it to dry, and if you want a extra buffed finish, id say you even take another extra 5 minuntes with something finer.
very controversial statement that paraffin residue destroys the p-tex by the snow ) compare to plastic scrapers and metal brushes. If you don't prepare a board for the race to be the fastest from 1st descent, you don't need to use even the paper in a couple of descents the remaining paraffin on the surface will be erased.
So if you buy a brand new board, should you wax it right away? and, how many wax cycles does it take to get the wax optimal infused into the base? Thanks alot!!
Riding it with the factory wax isn't the worst, but the wax most snowboard companies is closer to storage/base cleaner. You should wax it right away to flush out the base cleaner and get real wax into the base. It takes several cycles to get the wax properly infused into the base, but that happens naturally over time - just try to keep using the same wax every time you wax for best results.
This turned into a great video however, you almost lost me in the first 4 1/2 minutes. Those first few minutes weren’t anything like I have done to wax my boards and skis but after that the contact was excellent. Thank you.
The ptex and wood of the board expand and contract slightly when being heated/cooled. Having your bindings in while you wax places stress in the binding insert holes, resulting in heavy concave dimples on the base where the insert holes are.
The screws from the bindings will also conduct and hold more heat, which doesn't make a ton of difference by itself, but if you're going too slow with the iron it's more likely to create a dimple/damage
So you use like 4 paper towels for the entire snowboard? I did this method last night and i did everything wrong because i went too slow across the board and used the same single paper towel for the entire board. Some of the paper towel stuck on the board toward the tips lol I also used the light blue cheap demon wax, heated the wax before crayoning, and did not heat the wax after it was crayoned so i did everything wrong lol I'm going to try it again with my skis and see if it goes better this time I have the demon light blue wax and yea this seems cheap compared to what you have. So theres no way this demon wax will work with the paper towel method? I might just scrape for now and buy higher qulaity wax
This method works with blue demon wax but the cheap wax makes it a lot more difficult. It causes the paper towel to move around annoyingly and tear, like you experienced. Using the better wax in my experiences allows me to use only one or two paper towels, but they're just paper towels, in the end.
@@shmsnow I just got zum wax universal temp, not the high speed one Going to try it out on my skis and snowboards Also, I just bought a brand new salomon snowboard that has a white colored ptex base. Do white colored ptex bases need more wax maintenance than black ones? I thought I read something about it online that black is better and didn't know before buying the white one
It didn't work well because it's a terrible idea. There's no advantage in trying to cut corners or trying to re-invent the waxing process. The paper towel is immediately dried out by the iron heat and absorbs most of the wax you just put on. It's counterintuitive. You could save time by not waxing it and get the same results.
@@_-0_x_-_p_0-_ how is the iron and paper towel "absorbing the wax you just put on"? The whole point of waxing is to keep a very thin layer of wax on the board and make sure the pores of the board absorb it. So in the vid, you first crayon, then iron which makes the pores of the board absorb some of the wax, and then the residual wax that shouldn't be on the top of the pores gets taken off with the paper towel and iron right? oh right, I forgot there's "no advantage" to innovation. So, bingo, bangle, bungle, Mr Kaczynski so happy in the jungle, he refuses to go. Shame
Shouldn’t there at least be some brushing with the paper towel method? I can imagine some folks crayoning more wax than is needed that would need brushing.
Hey Seung, for brand new boards would you recommend doing the full brushing and waxing before riding it, or is it ok to ride it first with the factory wax?
In a perfect world I would full wax n brush it, but if you really want to ride the board, you can just ride it on it’s factory wax, no major problems there. Just make sure to give it the whole treatment soon.
@@shmsnow Hey Seung, you're probably planning on a video about edge tuning (maybe), but would you mind giving a quick recommendation how/where you tune your edges and the tools to get? The season is coming to an end and I want to protect my new board :) and perhaps ride it somewhere during the summer. I see people use an edge file, but not sure if the gummy stone, brush, and other stuff is required for tuning a board for carving.
