Thank you for a concise and well edited video. I’ve taken my Glocks apart to polish trigger connectors and do deep cleans, but I’ve never had to replace a firing pin spring…but I think I may have my first one. While at the range today, we experienced two light primer strikes (back to back) resulting in misfires. First time I’ve ever had a Glock not go bang, and I’ve shot a LOT. The good part is that my grandson was with me (he was actually the one firing), so he got on the spot training about how to handle a misfire, and the difference between a hang fire. Invaluable experience. Now to search for lint, weak/broken spring, broken firing pins. Since it’s a retired duty firearm and now one of my main EDC’s, lint is definitely a possibility. Even some stray oil that got tacky, but I doubt that one, as I’m really stingy with oil on my Glocks. Anyway…thanks. After watching your video, it’s now a simple job. So glad yours was the first one I clicked on. No need to search others. REPAIR EDIT: Analysis-breakdown revealed TWO separate problems that manifested at the exact same time. The odds are a LOTTO-LARGE numbers. 1. The slide lock lever (the one you pull down to take the slide off) had bent SLIGHTLY, and it was sticking down, which was causing the slide to just fall off. It was aftermarket (extended version) and I replaced it with a different manufacturer this time. Arthritis causes me to need the extended version. 2. Replaced the firing pin spring and that fixed the light primer strikes. Whole replacement time was about 10-15 minutes and that included explaining things as I went to my grandson. I now have those extra parts, including two firing pins in my safe. Happy camper.
@@sax5055 thats awesome. My apologies for the delayed response. I think it's great that your grandson got that experience as well. I too prefer to use aftermarket extended slide releases (and a couple raised) due to my high and tight grip. I've never seen one bend as you described though. Maybe that one was a QC issue. Anyway, I'm glad this video was able to help and please let me know if I can help in any other way in relation to the Glock platform. Stay tuned for more.
@@JettaManDesigns No worries. I’m retired and only work one day a week. Range tomorrow with son and grandson. Nothing but good times. Concerning the bent slide release, it was definitely odd. I have “a few” Glocks and never had an issue like that. I don’t know how you’d QC a simple piece of metal. It had about 2,000 rounds through it. Just one of those things. I don’t carry a backup firearm on duty…I’m rethinking that one. I may have to confiscate my wife’s G43 😏 But a G26 sounds better…I can shove one of my 24 round mags in it. Yeah…I just talked myself into another Glock 🤷🏻♂️😁
You Sir are a genius!! Been having a hard time installing my firing sleeves. Used my bench block and voilà, done. Great work and thanks for the video!!
Thanks for the fine video. I changed out the stock spring for the 4 lbs spring, The trigger was much lighter and smoother, but it only worked reliably with Federal primers. With any other, I get many misfires. Since primers started being available again, I take any brand I get. I just today put back the stock spring and I am back in business. I wish there was another way to reduce the the trigger pull and still have reliable primer ignition. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the compliment. As I am not a re-loader I haven't had that happen to me. However, It is very interesting. You could try at least 3 other modifications to lighten said trigger pull. You can polish the trigger bar and connector (you could see a smoother pull), or you can change to a dependable after market trigger shoe (depending on which model Glock you're using). I'm partial to Ranger Proof trigger shoes but there are many others out there that work very well. I have videos that cover polishing and swapping trigger shoes. Check those out. Lastly, you could change the connector. That one modification could drastically chance the weight of your trigger pull. I could try to explain how the angle geometry but Johnny Glock has already done an excellent job of doing that for us. Go over and check out his channel and try one of all of the above mods. I do them all on ALL OF MY BUILDS. Good luck and thanks again for watching.
Excellent video. I ordered a new Factory spring to replace the one that has been on my Glock 19 for over 10,000 rounds. Started getting some light strikes so I'm going to see if a new spring will take care of the problem. Also ordered a VISM Glock tool. I'll review your video again when I ready to make the change. Thanks again. I just clicked on subscribe.
Very helpful video, thanks! Glock's are such a dream to work on, right? Also, your firearm (and wristwatch) look very cool! I enjoy the lo-fi hip-hop in the background too, nice and relaxing.
hi, if possible, i want to ask a question about glock 43x Firing ping. When the gun is not loaded, the bullet is not in the barrel, when tilting the gun down, up, if you move the gun to the sides, you can hear how this part dangles inside. The sound is loud. I would like to understand, this should not happen, right? Thank you.
Actually that's normal in all Glocks (even clones like mine) if the gun hasn't been put into battery (slide racked). If the gun is empty but the slide is racked, then once the trigger has been pulled the firing pin will free float inside the channel. That is likely what you are hearing. With the gun empty rack the slide then shake and see if the rattle stops. If it does then you're good to go. If it still rattles then take it to a gunsmith to check it out. With that being said, it shouldn't be an overly lowd rattle. If it is there may be another issue. In that case I'd advise taking it to a gunsmith asap.
Great question. If you are purchasing your first Glock then I wouldn't suggest making this mod unless you are a builder and want to learn the differences or plan to enter pistol competitions. The answer to your question is simple but explaining it can be complex when you figure in all the different variables. However, I will do my best to answer your question without writing a book lol. The 4lb trigger spring (see pic at min 4:45) should only be used for competition. Using that spring in combination with the right connector (4 main options) can make your overall trigger pull between 2lbs - 3lbs (due to resistance between the trigger bar, connector, firing pin and sear). Some feel that light trigger pull opens you up to possible accidental discharges and/or light primer strikes which can result in a misfire. And the last thing you want if you get into a gun fight is to have a misfire because of unnecessary mods. The 6lb spring, again it really depends on the connector you're using, might give you an overall trigger pull between 3lbs and 6lbs. I prefer my trigger pull to be between 3.5lbs - 4lbs even on my everyday carry pistol so I've experimented with multiple springs and connectors. Anything more than that affects my shot placement. I hope this helps and thanks for the question. Johnny Glocks does a great job at explain the connector geometry options available if you check out his channel but I will shoot a video shortly to explain my answer in detail.
