This was an extremely helpful video. I had no idea what the L1 and L2 and C terminals on my new dimmer referred to but the thanks to you I feel confident I can install the dimmer brilliantly explained thank you
Few years late to the vid but having just moved into a new house & considering installing a couple of dimmers this video is really appreciated. Thank you!
So helpful! Thank you so much. As a previous commenter said, I had no idea about the L1, L2 and C connection points. This looks really easy and I'm sure I can do it myself. Thanks again.
What a great video ♥ Thank you for thoroughly explaining how to do this particular thing; I may still wait for my other-half to do this, but I am very confident that I can do this myself if need be. THANK YOU!!! xoxo
Thank you!!! The first 30 seconds of your video saved me!! I had in fact installed the dimmer correctly, I’d just forgotten that you have to press the switch to turn it on 😝😂 thank you so much! ☀️
Thank you Martin very much for the instructions to change a normal light switch to a dimmer we were going to give up. Now we have a nice chrome look rather than a boring white one!
Excellent thank you. I have the same dimmer but the 2 gang version. Good tip about bending back the unused screw lugs on the back plate to make it fit. Liked and subscribed.
Found the video useful for me in the confirmation that COM can also be labelled as L or indeed a 'squiggle icon'. I do wish things could be standardised. Thanks
Thank you, it really helped me today. I was having a problem with a faulty dimmer switch that kept turning its self on and off intermittently. I bought a replacement but it wasn't needed. Turns out whoever had the flat before me hadn't even connected it propetly. I was a bit stumped though at they were both red wires and an earth. I had to work our which was the switched live. Luckily this was in place but the box had no proper signage to tell me which was what. I figured it out. Now it's working fine. Thanks buddy 👍
Is your test board connected to a consumer unit or is it a temporary power source? I would like to practice at home on different light fittings myself but don't know the best way to approach it. Great video, thank you
Hi mate. very good videos for the layman or diyers like me out there, i have some ideas for new videos for you which im sure a lot of people would find interesting, i cant seem to find any uk videos of how to wire a stand alone photocell, for garden lights, outside security lights etc.. i would love to know how to install outside or garden lighting with a photocell and not an annoying PIR that just comes on and off with movement, it would be great if you could do a mock up or a real install, thanks kevin
Is their a video of doing this in reverse? The dimmer in my flat is has alway had issues, remote control for my PC’s speakers causes it to randomly turn on and off. I got a new speaker systems but then the light started turning it self off randomly and would also flicker for 2-3sec at a time before going off. I planned on replacing it with a normal light-switch but someone suggested that the dimmer might just need cleaning. Doing that seemed to fix it but only for a few weeks and now the dimmer even turns itself on randomly. When I opened the light switch up I noticed it had 3 red wires and a yellow/green (but that’s not connected to anything). 1 red wire goes into the socket labelled LOAD and 2 go into the socket labelled LIVE. So far I’ve not been able to find out the make/model of the dimmer or find a guide that uses this set up. With the lockdown I don’t really want to try and replace it myself incase I need to get an electrician out to fix it but my bedroom is currently my office so I need light in order to work.
My common wire on the old gang style switch has two copper wires with exposed contacts versus L1/2 being one copper contact. What should I do with this?
The colours are dependent on wiring system used in each country. What's important is noting which wires go into the common (permanently live) and those that go into the switched live parts of the switch (usually labelled L1 or L2). Just make sure those in the old switch go into the same terminals in the dimmer. Hope this is helpful?
My old light has 2 browns in L1 and 1 brown in comm. In the dimmer I have just put in the browns in L1 and 1 brown in the squiggle, when I turn on the electrics the light comes on but can't turn it off or dim it any idea?
Hi, please can I ask - we have a lot of dimmers installed 4 years ago. When we press some now they don't work. Are they fixable or do we need to replace them? Thank you
Samuel Kayo www.electrical2go.co.uk/aurora-zero-cross-dimmer-module-400w.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0PTXBRCGARIsAKNYfG2gzvF4nHqHoLfqF39Hwl-24RxFMXtUoX7jAwPV_K89JTxVQs9NxqcaAk-YEALw_wcB, these will do the job for you.
It might be a good idea to mention that the dimmers can have a minimum as well as a maximum wattage. I just bought one and I think it is no good, as it says minimum 60W, max 250W, and the LED bulb is only 9W! The dimmer I bought is also leading edge, not trailing edge, but the packaging did not specify so I did not know! The LED bulb is marked dimmable but also does not say if it needs leading or trailing edge! I have contacted Homebase for advice... I was assuming all the newer dimmers they sold now would have been compatible with LED bulbs.
Hi there . My electrician said i could not have a dimmer in my front room but never got around to explaining why. Could there be any viable reason to as why he thinks i cant? Thanks
ive just installed a metal dimmer by BG, seems to be working fine although i hear a faint buzzing noise. whilst this is on, is this normal? (Ive left it off to be on the safe side for now)
So I can just buy a dimmer and connect the blue wire to the dimmer spot and the brown to L1? I reckon it's a 1 pole switch on an IT system (in Norway) I haven't bothered to check yet but it should work if my assumptions are correct, right?
How would u change the back box on a light switch mine is coming away from the wall it is a white plastic one the wall its on is plaster board if im right many thanks
Martin Allen You mock - But for amateur electrician/ Apprentices, it is MUCH safer to turn ALL electrics off at the consumer unit. Let’s not forget that most non sparky’s will not have Guuci circuit testing kit. If in doubt turn the lot off!
I totally agree. What most sparky you tube videos show is what is taught to apprentices in the trade. Joe public won’t have highly sophisticated and very expensive circuit testing kit in their tool boxes (some enthusiasts will - Granted). And who ‘locks off) their consumer unit in case the Mrs or kids turn the power back on??! That is for the trade. So - As the mention - DIYers - Turn ALL power off at the consumer unit. I have known people turning off what they ‘think’ controls the power source they are working on, when in fact it isn’t. This happens often when people buy houses where they are unfamiliar with the consumer unit. If you have an extension to your property, this too will usually have separate circuits for the extension and the original part of the property. But will work off the same consumer units. Switch labelled ‘sockets’ don’t necessarily mean they turn off ALL sockets.
For LED bulbs they have to be ones marked 'dimmable'. Then the dimmer also needs to match the LED bulb as well - some dimmers are leading edge dimming, and some are trailing edge (more common for LED bulbs I think). The older style for incandescent bulbs were leading edge dimming, but I think the trailing edge will also work with incandescent bulbs.
Jake Smith it’s used for 2 way switching, if you can switch one light or set of lights on and off from multiple switches for example being able to turn a hallway light on/off from ground floor and first floor or bedside switches for ceiling lights.
You can, but how can be sure the bulb hasn't failed at the exact same moment and the wiring is faulty somewhere keeping it live? At least try all the other lights as well. I usually just turn power off to the whole house using the big red switch on the consumer unit for peace of mind and would definitely do this if I didn't have a tester.
Very helpfull video, I'm doing this when the dimmer arrives from Amazon.I dont have a multimeter - is it ok to ask the wife to wet her finger and quickly brush it over the cables? Only kidding, she can keep her finger dry for safety I suppose.
Maybe if you have it too low it's not getting enough power because of resistance so it flickers, I think this may be why, or the light bulb needs changing lol
I connected the live (red wire) to the live (arrow symbol) and the neutral (black wire) to L1. I also connected the earth wire however the dimmer isn't work. Light works fine I just can't control intensity. It's a brand new dimmer and the light bulb is dimmable.
This is going to sound utterly noob. But, bro, where's the power coming from? if there's only 1 wire in the switch? Is the power going to the light first and then to the switch?
Raymond Wilson You can bring the permanent live (+ neural and CPC) to the light itself or the switch. If the feed is taken to the light then you’ll have one twin and earth cable going to the switch with Live (com) switched live (L1) and CPC.
MAN.THAT MICROPHONE NEEDS SORTING OUT DOESN'T IT?BRIAN BLESSED OR TASMANIAN DEVILS DON'T STAND ON CEREMONY! BLURT IT ALL OUT MY GOOD MAN,TO ALL AND SUNDRY! LET THE LIGHT SHINE THROUGH!
