Our 94 F250 5.8 usually was fine but for a couple years she would really hard shift into second from time to time. More recently she would shift all the way up into third before we even got up to speed. Yesterday she stalled while idling at a redlight so we changed out the TPS thanks to this video and she is ready for another 150,000 miles. GREAT VIDEO. THANKS. Sorry for some of the negative cornfield mechanics that are making rude replies. They need to go back to being scarecrows...LOL
The piece on the side of your throttle body is the IAC-idle air control valve, not the mass air flow. If you ever have idle issues that's usually the first place to look. It either has a diaphragm on the inside that controls the amount of air flow or a needle/seat style with the little motor that adjusts it. Your mass air flow sensor will most likely be between the air filter box and the throttle body, usually in the tube connecting the two. As we discussed last night, I think these style videos are great stuff.
Thanks. It looks like the IAC has been recently replaced, but not sure. Once I a while I get a CEL that comes and goes, but works good most of the time.
There is not Mass Air Flow sensor on this one, instead it has a MAP sensor. On my van it was on the passages side very visable. With a vacuum tube and a connector running to it.
These particular models of ford trucks from 1986 to 1993 do not have MAFs mass airflow sensors some 1994 and 1995 models have MAFs especially California models MAFs are located in the intake air tube or tubes near the air filter housing top cover and will have wiring pin connector connected to them ford didn't use MAFs on the speed sensitive emission control systems. very typical of Ford to be totally different than other manufacturers.
Currently replacing gaskets of all the upper engine block, and I bought a punch screw driver to remove the TPS screws that were so badly rusted out. And get throttle body in the ultra sound machine for perfect cleaning :-)
I always wet my tb gasket with oil or light coating of grease, makes it easy to clean and reuse. Clean my air control valve and check o-ring for hardness/drying out and replace as needed. Check for vacuum leaks and hose cracks. There is a lot going on in this area. Thanks for your time with this video. My codes were 121 & 122 KOEO fast test OBDI
mine is doing the same. was running fine then set for a year and know the tranny is shifting late and I have to help it then it idle is hight the stalls some times..... idk
You didn't do the voltage test and calibration, which is hugely important. Since you didn't know that the silver thing was the IAC valve🤨, I'm not surprised you didn't do the TPS sensor correctly.
Joseph01968 you didn't pass the douche bag test which is hugely important. Since you don't know how much of a prick you come off as I'm not really surprised!! Nice video bud appreciate it!
TPS out of range means it just needs to be adjusted and going by how far you have the throttle stop screw turned inwards its no wonder why the TPS is out of range...Voltage should be set to .097..If you need to have that throttle that far open to keep your truck running I suggest you look at the vacuum passages at the throttlebody that they arent clogged with charcoal from the charcoal canister and also your intake air controller is functioning right and you dont have any vacuum lines busted...
I have a 93 e150 5.8l. Tuned it last yr changed out wires,plugs,coil,distributor and rotor and could not get it started after wards. Turned out a wire from the spark plug was grounding out. The van, @ slow speed like pulling out of a spot or backing up, stalls.Some times after making several stops and i restart it,it runs rough for a few seconds. While running it runs fine.If i'm going up/down incline, the idle drops almost to a stall.This after i changed the TPS, air iddle control valve,map sensor, egr valve the sensor and pipe that goes to it,pcv valve,fuel filter and computer. Still have the idle issues. Was told had a vacuum leak. Had it done. Sill have the issues.I've been to 6,mechanics including ford dealer ship and 2500 dollars...I still have old computer and several of above parts that were not the issue. HELP.......Running out of time and funds. Van only has around 160k.
First thing I would do is use a vacuum gauge to see what vacuum actually is. Should be around 19 in h20 at idle and steady. Second, use fuel pressure gauge to measure pressure at fuel rail at low rpm and higher rpm. How does transmission seem to work? If torque converter is failing it might not be slipping enough at low rpm causing engine to stall. Good luck with your van.
Faulty PIP sensor in your distributor will cause these problems. To replace the sensor, you gotta pull and disassemble the distributor. Just replace the distributor with new one.
For anyone watching. don't use vice grips to get the screw out. Just a squirt or 2 of wd-40 and wait a few min. Rushing will only add more cost to any repair. Don't tap it with a hammer either. Never seen someone do that before. When in doubt use some lube. Use a wire brush or grinder brush on the screws before you put them back in and apply a small amount of lock tight. A few drops of oil on the new gasket will keep it from hardening and breaking off. I've been able to re-use most gaskets because of this.
Lightly taping a stuck bolt in combination with lube helps to break it free. It's the same concept as an impact driver. I had to do what I had to do to get stuff out.
@@QuickSpeedShop Whatever you say guy. Totally different from an impact gun. Lateral or twisting movement is not the same thing as banging a hammer on something but I digress. Keep swinging away.
You have to recalibrate the computer and tps by dc’ing the spout connector,battery, iac connectors for ten min no less, reconnect, start for two min, off two min and start again 2min with everything on. Then computer has re-learned Throttle position.
@@TheRealCreepinogie on the drivers side inner fender next to diagnostic connector there’s a connector with a solid gray plastic piece (spout) that stops computer from controlling the timing.. some are different but my 92 is how I just explained it..
I just wanted to see the orientation of the sensor when he installed it. Imagine my dismay after scrubbing to the part i wanted and he says cant see it because my hands in the way before putting his hand back in the way!
@@QuickSpeedShop no worries i missed the clearer section just before your hand went in the way. Just finished swapping out my part after watching your video. Thanks!
Wow great video you made, I just bought a 87 f150 lariat, 5.0 question maybe you could answer when I start the truck the idle fluctuates up and down a few time before she settles down to a good idle. It might do that for about 10 seconds then it's fine. The owner before changed out the idle air control valve, not sure if it would be that, maybe it was a defective not sure. Any ideas ? And just one other thing I run 93 octane in there anything lower it pings. I noticed yesterday even with running that, I'm getting a little pinging at different speeds. Should you happen to know a fix for that. I would appreciate if you could help me out thank you
If the truck is pinging even on 93 the timing must be off. Either the distributor is too advanced physically or the internal parts are stuck in full advance. I'd reset the timing with a light and see if that helps. As far as the idle I'd just leave it if it flattens out after a few seconds. The IAC could be dirty or sticking. My truck idle was stuck at 1500 rpm at every cold start without me cycling the key. I unplugged the IAC and that cured the high idle, but now it has no idle control at startup meaning I need to keep my foot on the gas at warmup or it idles too low. Once I start to drive it is fine. I'd rather have that then have the idle stuck at 1500 rpm.
@@QuickSpeedShop I'll definitely check that out I really appreciate you getting back to me. I noticed if I'm in park and rev engine it sounds smooth there's no pinging. But once I drive at different speeds I'll hear the pinging
Just went thru all this and change it along with ignition module that both replace one was from Napa other was from Orally.s so I use my ODB 1 and show both bad I said no so I change oxygen sensor and ERG valve still not running right so put back ODB 1 show module and throttle control sensor bad change them ran great both of them wasn.t 3 months old unreal.
Man changed mine now it Idles at like 1500 RPMs I wonder if I put it on backwards my wires are pointing towards that little hose on left on the bottom of the throttlebody yours is pointing other way. Maybe that’s my only problem
High idle could be due to a faulty idle air control solenoid also mounted on the throttle body. Mine went bad and it was idling high until truck warmed up. I ended up just unplugging it which probably isn't the best answer, but truck runs fine and idle is set by screw now so it's always 700 rpm no matter what.
When I put my TB back on it idled at like 2,000rpm too, I think when I cleaned the throttle body it moved gunk around and caused the iac to stick I took it off and cleaned it better, seems to be good now.
I don’t know if this is right, but without disconnecting the battery terminals, which I zoomed the crap out of lol, wasn’t all the sensors you disconnected adjusted to non factory specs? Not knowing a lot about it myself, I was told the computer adjusted the engine to run with that hesitation. To reset it back to normal the battery needs to be disconnected for 5 min at least or it’s still telling everything it’s adjusted info. Is this correct? (Besides only being safer) also how’s it running?
Thanks man, I have the 97 with obd1, learned that spending 30 min in the parking lot trying to find the obd2 connection thanks to the clerks info lol I’ll be swapping the tps on it tomorrow so I appreciate the video.
You have to recalibrate the computer and tps by dc’ing the spout connector,battery, iac connectors for ten min no less, reconnect, start for two min, off two min and start again 2min with everything on. Then computer has re-learned Throttle position.
You have to recalibrate the computer and tps by dc’ing the spout connector,battery, iac connectors for ten min no less, reconnect, start for two min, off two min and start again 2min with everything on. Then computer has re-learned Throttle position.
@@QuickSpeedShop No, You need to reset the computer. 10 min with battery disconnected. re-connect then start for a few min, shut off for a few min. Then start back up. It doesn't reset just because the engine warmed up.
Mine Idles good. Except when I pull up to a stop light. The idle stays high (sometimes) and can be hard to stop. What could be the issue? TPS, AIC or DPFE? 96 Bronco 5.8
@@QuickSpeedShop can't remember the code but banks 1 and 2 were lean. Cleared the code and it didn't happen again during a 1200 mile road trip last week
From what i heard those are not PHILIPS screws ; they are or may be POZI screws holding the TPS in place;also there is a special coating inside of some of the throttle bodies of that era that should not be removed.
@@QuickSpeedShop Yeah, I didn't know either till i researched it a bit,i did notice however that the screws you removed looked a bit rusty so they may not have been the original screws.
@@QuickSpeedShop Was wondering if you had some time to maybe send a couple of quick pictures of the vacuum lines to your upper intake and where they go? I got mine tore apart and cant exactly remember. Also have you ever done A lower intake manifold replacement
I didn't take the intake off this truck, but just did a video on a 302 in my van that is pretty much the same thing. It's titled something like Pushrod Replace ment Ford Econoline on my channel. Email me at quickspeedshop@gmail.com and I'll try to get vacuum line pics.
If my f 150 1990 5.0 is going high on RPM above 1000 rpm on parking and then when i go on (D) goes down,. Can i replace the TPS its going get fixed the issue? Thanks
@@QuickSpeedShop hey i put new tps sensor on my 1990 ford f 150 5.0 But after i installed the rpms goes 2 thousand and i was expexting get the issue fixed and not!
@@rodrigopalma155 hey buddy.... yeah i already Fix my truck..... but it was the IAC SENSOR i put the original one the really old one some mechanic gave me the party the (iac) from a junk truck and i just cleaned it up with carbu clean and thats it..my truck runs perfect..... Bc before the original one, it was on iac but from autozone so that was the problem ..
I think there might be some adjustment in the sensor mounting holes. Also make sure someone didn't crank the idle screw way in to try and compensate for a bad TPS.
@@QuickSpeedShop Thanks, that,s about the only code I'm not getting. I have a hard shift - was hopping a new TBS would help. I'm going clean the TB and change the TPS anyway. thanks
I've had some OBS trucks that had hard shifting issues. I didn't find it to be throttle related, but transmission related. Either a worn transmission, electric solenoid issues, brake light circuit resistance issues, or sometimes hard towing. Try disconnecting the battery for 10 min then drive truck and see if trans shifts smoother.
@@QuickSpeedShop could definitely be the shift solenoid, torque converter or 100 other things. The TPS and VSS speed info help determine when to shift. My shift problem is associated with a hesitation. So could be TPS. I have some engine codes but no Transmission codes. I'm starting vacuum, TB, and as long as the TB is off, TPS. I have seen bad TPS with no codes. I'm too lazy to test it. I have one, so I'm going to put it on.
One more thing, I can idle and rev all day sitting still, but as soon as I drive and it shifts, the check engine light comes on. It's gotta be a sensor?
5 месяцев назад
All engineers should be forced to work on their products after 100,000 miles of wear,rust,mud, & leaks.
