Excellent Job Brother!! Our Royal Enfield 500 and 350 engines have similar crank pin.. I had changed the same in my Royal Enfield 500. Unfortunately, many riders of Royal Enfield experience the same problem. Watching this could perhaps enable them to know the delicacy of this job..
This is a masterful demonstration of a practical skill, with maximum content, with minimal ( NO ) verbalization to confuse the presentation. This is a fantastic show of using maximum skill, and minimum equipment to preform a precision task. I love your crank test stand, a work of art, all on it's own. Your photography is magnificent, and shows everything needed perfectly !!! Congratulations !!! Tim
@@ronnieboucherthecrystalcraftsm Hi, Ronnie I am wondering about the comment you just sent me ??? Why would you assume that I don't know much about engine assembly ??? Base upon my positive comment about Paul Xs' display of expertise. Tim
i watch your videos from many years ago , all jobs you make are a masterclass demostration of "how to do" many fixes , i've learned a lot from you and your videos man ... cheers from mexico !
Amazing that the press plug is good enough to lock it all down. Also amazed the builder left all the rust/corrosion on the crank. Could be that it looks worse on camera.
Good job. Nice centering attachement. No need of use hammer for truing if use bush type Crank assembling fixtures. Perfect well done. Please upload video about cylinder head valve seat repair. Thanks
Very interesting. I am sending mine to Dark Horse but this guy makes it look easy. It aint. A lot of things can go wrong and when it's wrong, it's real bad news. But you won't know till it's in there. Still probably better than Harley did it. (Still love you Harley but it is what it is) Thanks for the video. Cool to see.
If you would have used a positioning jig you could have eliminated the hammering. You still would want to check it for position. But a great job none the less. Also you need to face grind that Hammer. The way it is now it could spit something at your eyes.
Excellent! thanks for sharing your knowledge. I only have one question: What is the cover you put on the pin for, at the end of the video? Thank you very much for answering!
You really should indicate the crank Futher away from the roller bearings to get a more accurate reading. The ends can have alot of runout and only show little next to the bearings. Anyway nice video and good job.
@@PaulXchannel you read your dial indicators at the main bearing journals just like you did it or you are wasting your timid if you don't !!! It doesn't hurt to check the further trueness of the drive socket side and the opinion side shafts but run out at the main bearings to get it right must be set at "0" zero .and check out Precision balancing Company of Indianapolis Indiana.. Where you can send your crankshaft zeroed out with no rods attached piscina near-complete rotating assembly and they will weigh out each part in one gram and send you a paper on that Daniel take a shot box fastened to your crankshaft and fill it with chhatre exactly what your rotating assembly will weigh Alan Hale spend balance it to whatever RPM you want to run as maximum on your engine build and betting you won't believe the difference it makes as the front tire will not jump up and down on the pavement anymore when it's idling and when your roll it on it won't feel like a Harley anymore it feels smoother than a Japanese bike and you'll gain a whole bunch more power as there's no more inertia of a crankshaft trying to come out but just rolling free and balanced. I don't need to tell you that Harley doesn't have time to do all this and still sell a motorcycle at the price they do as no other manufacturer does either. Manufactures build a perfectly balanced engine to start with as a prototype and then copy all the parts and weights after that and if it's balanced fine if it's not shakes little bit so what
If you do it your way the main bearings can have some hop and wobble in them at least about a thousands or even more and you're wasting your time ...if the sprocket Shaft or the pinion shaft is wobbling after you have true the main bearing journals get new parts and do it again
При такому способі центрування,лапки індикатора треба ставити на кінці вала!!На відео видно неозброєним оком що вал ще потрібно центрувати,биття там більше десятки.Вага вашого молоточка замала для такого колінвала.Я сам колись ремонтував колінвали ... Гарний у Вас контент,успіхів!
Nice job and awesome video. I’m kind of shocked those cranks would ever stay true from the factory, considering the load on just a press fit. A taper fit and a nut, or welding the pin to the flywheels I’d think would be more solid.
I would think that after the crank is centered and placed in the case supported by the main bearings, there is no place for the crank to twist out of center. If it does then I expect that you have many other problems to worry about.
@@peejay6855 Yeah, the bearings support the crank, but it wouldn’t have to flex much to end up with runout that could damage gear drive cam or even the oil pump.
They have a pretty tight interference fit from the factory, there used to be promotional video's about it with the special 150 ton press HD developed. It's supposed to take a minimum of 50 tons to put them together but I have heard many are around 20 tons? I've done hundreds of the taper pin/nutted HD cranks but always kept away from the pressed up ones.
Yea a lot of companies do press and weld them with a bigger pin Harley should’ve done that to begin with like they did before and they did on early twin cam for few years than trying to save little money they did the pressing it’s crazy the runout they have on some
It's old school, but the beauty of it is in it's absolute simplicity. Harley motors are not high tech, however, they are reliable for this one simple reason. Where most motors are permanently and irreversibly damaged, a Harley motor can be repaired. By design it is almost impossible for a common crank pin motor to throw a connecting rod. You may lose the bearings, or the motor may break a wrist pin, but it won't throw a connecting rod, the modularity of the motor also aides in it's robust and endlessly repairable nature.
Every $10,000 motocross engine of all 2020 to as far back as 1968 japanese dirt bikes all ktm dirt bikes all new maico everything is made exactly like this harley and you need to go to and eye doctor and get new glasses cause you got double double vision and no depth perception 1970 shovel head was a 5 piece crank the evos were 3 piece and this is a twin cam that is a two piece ...those bearing are much bigger than those in a drive shaft as if they were actual needle bearings as you claim they are would not last three hours ....So tell me so everyone else will know and exactly why that front rod and the center of the crank pin failed and the rear female rod and both ends of the crank pin still look brand new ..and if you dont come with the correct answer you are just another flilthy scum bucket harley hater who just wants to put harley out of business to make harder for me to own them just for your spite ;
Bielles moulés dans la masse avec cage aiguilles plutôt que demi coussinets et calage reporté sur un axe ex-tractable des balanciers de vilebrequin...Punaise, franchement, d'un point de vue mécanique c'est super malin. Je comprends mieux pourquoi ces motos sont increvables (dans le cas présent il a du avoir un souci de niveau d'huile, mais rien en terme de tare mécanique mal conçue). Chapeau Harley Davidson.
@@PaulXchannel Very simple : off course, need some knowledge, but i just say with this example, how H&D so durability. This crankshaft damage result low oil, not by the way R&D . i love the way connecting rod done, one in one. Very intelligent. And i love the fact crankshaft build in two parts, very intelligent, not oblige buy an entire another one. Sorry my english, school nivel ; )
The scarred crank pin may be caused by not enough oil being circulated, idk. I've read that some people balk at Twin Cam motors due to their supposed unreliability. If you're going to overhaul one you might as well swap the chain-driven cam assembly with a set of gear-driven ones as cam chain tensioners on them do have a litany of issues.
What are your thoughts on welding the shaft that you pressed in to the flywheel assembly that holds the bearings/rods? I know people do it to prevent runout on high RPM builds and I want to have a nice reliable xr1200/xb12 crank built for my Sportster build to handle a beating. Your work is amazing!
@@PaulXchannel you can weld a quarter round the crank pin to the fly wheels so it can never slip .and use a tig welder for a very small and narrow bead and not much penetration so it can be ground off with a die grinder. For future overhauls ..of the last of the all roller cranks from Suzuki came factory welded pins as a lot of them were twisting cranks at the midnight drags in the ghetto on 36th street Indy back then
Best thing for a reliable Sportster is keep it between 2,000rpm and 6,000rpm and don't fit drag pipes as they lose power being designed to work at 9,000rpm on XR 750
In complete job, I have done many Harley Davidson flywheels over the years started with panheads all the way through twin cams you didn't address the end of your pinion shaft or your driveshaft just because your dial indicator reads.000 at the bearing surface doesn't mean it will be.000 at the end of the shaft, more than likely the ends of both pinion and output shaft will be out of tolerance, these flywheels are not finished yet
I developed a method where the wheels are trued zero while pressed them together without hitting them with a copper hammer and truing them. Also why did you not replace pinion shaft when it was apart for a new bearing surface and oiling upgrade?
Its only a 3 piece crank. To change out the pinion or sprocket shaft you have to change that wheel/crank half. The shafts are made as part of the crank assembly. The old/shovel head, panhead, knucklehead, sporty cranks were good stuff. Not garbage like twin cam door weights.
Check out Precision balance Company of Indianapolis Indiana ...37 years ago I built my first Harley engine that was an FLH 74 cubic inch and I had Precision balance Company of Indianapolis Indiana spin balance the crankshaft as you have to have your crank Wheels together and zeroed out before you taking there and they actually spin balance the crank with the weight of your rotating assembly your connecting rods pistons pins and clips plus weight of piston rings and print out the individual weight to within a gram of all your parts for future replacement if ever ! And last year at my local shop the owner's son pointed out my old bike and she's still running on my first build ever some 37 years later
Ya should have oiled or greased those crank pins bearings before assembling the flywheels and rods. So they wouldn't starve for lubrication on 1st start up.
@@donniebaker5984 I'd say he should have lubed them with it before assembly. . The first few seconds of wear before the lube oil gets to them is critical for longevity of the brgs and crank pin. other than that, nice job.
