Cheers for the tip on availability of already tabbed batteries. I went from a mini spot welder $70 item to tabbed 2032 battery $3 item. So a huge thank you.
Been putting this off for the shopping car, finally the key stopped working when locking the doors manually (battery has been dead for ages) Ordered the battery via the link you posted in another comment. Cheers for the video.
@@RiffRaffMama. No, not a big fan of bogan mobiles for my daily driver. It literally is just the "shopping car" for groceries/hay bails/cow shit. Shopping center carpark's around my area are super narrow, nobody gives a toss about anyone's cars so you wind up with countless dings, scrapes etc. The plan is to drive this old nugget into the ground, not far off now.
@@sfrrob You throw hay bales in the back of yours too? I also throw my goats in the back of mine. Just have to put a bit of netting between the two front seats to stop them getting into the front seat. You think these cars are not far off the end, but the bloody things just keep going! I have a VX Berlina that I technically wrote off spectacularly three years ago. Funnily enough, it was the fact that I had two hay bales in my back seat that I was able to limp home after the accident. I couldn't get what was left of the front bumper fully off, so I tied it to what was left of the radiator frame with a piece of baling twine cut from one of the bales lol. Here's a pic. You can even see the bales in my back seat: ibb.co/vV0dHkq . I replaced the broken bits with ones off a VX Exec I had in the same colour, and figuring there was no way she could bounce back after taking down and running over a pole, I thought "screw it" and proceeded to "drive her into the ground". So I thought, anyway. I live on a dirt road in a country town and drive her like shes a 4WD, never wash her, never service her... I'm not a gentle owner. I just top up the oil when the light goes on, ignore the fuel gauge and stay away from the wiring underneath the seat. The suspension and wheels have never been quite the same since the accident and she chews through tyres like nothing I've ever seen, but does she want to give up? F*ck no. It's reached the point where it's kind of like driving a boat, but I love her to death for her sheer defiance.
@@RiffRaffMama. hahaha, that is hilarious! Don't get me started on the fuel gauge, it's left me stranded a few times now. I am worried mine won't die as well. I have a persistent oil leak from somewhere. I've degreased the entire engine to search for it, but can't find it. As much as I hate the car, I respect the car for it's refusal to die. In the last 6 months the car also appears to have decided to shed it's skin. The paint has started heavily blistering EVERYWHERE.
Thanks Greg I have just used your video guide to replace the batteries in both my keys for the VZ. My original key died about three years ago, not bad service for a 2005 vintage. So out with the spare along with the thought that I should really do something about fixing the original key. So silly me operates happily until a fortnight ago when I went wading with that scond key in my pocket 🤕. New batteries as per your directions and hey presto back in action despite the naysayers bleeting about the need for locksmiths, reprogramming etc. Thank you.
Thanks for the tips. Great video. Ages ago one of my VX remotes stopped working - it was onlhy a loose connection on the metal key. But I measured the battery - 3.3Volts, and just over 2.8 ish under load. So now with 22+ years on the same batteries (daily driver) they were sure made to last! On one remote the case wouldn't stay closed, so I used a small countersunk screw, screwed into the tapped hole in the middle of the metal key. Worked.
Thanks Jeff. Did yours work ok after you reconnected the battery? And how long wasn't it working? One of mine stopped working a few weeks ago and I found the tab had come off, but when I held the tab against the battery the key still didn't work. Im wondering if too long off power makes it lose its code.
Hi @BENT n BROKE, 1) Yes I got mine from Retro Sales for $1.80. www.retrosales.com.au/products/parts-modding-battery-save-game-cr2032-cr2025-cr2016-cr1616-tab-tabbed?variant=25772027216 2) Haha yes they did! :) Cheers, Greg
In a case like this (no pun intended) that might need to be opened again, I use silicone, any will do, that way it holds together well but with a little heat comes apart again easily. Just my two bobs worth! And great write up im gonna try this myself, well done!
Haha good one Bobby! Yep silicone might work, although I worry it might not hold the two halves together tightly enough, and they might come loose out in the field. The two halves might 'clop' together a bit too if they're a bit loose. Worth a try though.
Good video, thanks for this. I didn't have solder braid so I plaited/braided some fine stranded wires I pulled from an old cable, the solder came off surprisingly easy. Used tiny bit of liquid flux on it. I didn't have a battery with tabs, but I did have copper foil so cut a small piece and soldered where the tabs should have been on the battery and cut a small bit of aluminium can and wrapped it with the copper foil for the circuit board. The battery has been dead for about 6 years, just starting to be awkward with manual lock/unlock. Wish I watched this BEFORE I pried the case open, jamming the screwdriver under my thumbnail made me bump the table. Now I've lost the pin that goes in the opposite side of the case to the contact loop. Do you reckon I could use a small piece of a s/steel pegboard hook the same diameter? Or a small machine screw? Or a plug from a cable/stereo jack or the copperfoiled beak of the silly chook that ate the dropped one?? It's the principle now, whether it works is irrelevant, I just don't want to have to buy a new one for losing the pin after taking it all apart and jakguyvering it all back together with only one minor injury. My thumb, not the chook's bum..I wonder if the pin will be in an egg!? Cheers for the video mate!
Haha what a hilarious story! Hope the chook is ok! There's nothing particularly special about the pin, so providing the thread portion of a screw fits into the clamp on the board, and the screw head is about the right size and shape there's no reason why it shouldn't work. But as you say there's not a lot to lose now. Good luck and thanks for the laugh! 🤣
@@TheMusingGreg Thank you so much for your reply! I actually used a rivet...bashed the flange off and cut it to length...didn't work when I first tried to lock/unlock, but after I started it and turned it off, it would lock but not unlock....noticed there's a bit of crud from the old buttons I replaced a year or so ago underneath that particular switch so hopefully if I can clean it without 'poultry interference' I'll get to unlock it with the buttons again....glad you got a chuckle, will let you know if I get any egg surprises 😉
Hi mate, sorry I got it from Retro Sales for $1.80 each. The link is www.retrosales.com.au/products/parts-modding-battery-save-game-cr2032-cr2025-cr2016-cr1616-tab-tabbed?variant=25772027216. I had that detail in the full review on my blog www.themusinggreg.com/how-to/how-to-change-the-remote-control-battery-vr-vz-holden-commodore-1993-2006/
Glad you enjoyed it! The link to the battery is in the description, but here is it again: www.retrosales.com.au/products/parts-modding-battery-save-game-cr2032-cr2025-cr2016-cr1616-tab-tabbed?variant=25772027216
I have not had one of these apart myself, but strictly from an electronics repair perspective... Depends on where it is broken... If the loop (where the screw goes through), yeah solder it... But only very lightly, as the solder may crush when you screw it back together. Although, this may be a different story if it is, like snapped it half.... If so, same as next step....... If its between the circuit board and the loop, I would definitely solder a jumper wire across it.... keep it very flat and straight. And if possible do it on both sides.
I'd agree with @Steve McDonald. It should be fixable, it just depends where it's broken as to how you go about the fix. As far as I can tell, that contact simply connects the key shaft to the circuit board, to form one half of the anti-theft circuit, with the other half formed by the little metal button poking out at the top of the key which contacts the slider around the ignition switch. This is why the alarm turns off if your key battery is dead, you open the car door, the alarm goes off and then you insert the key and turn it. So all you need to do is have a good electrical connection between the key shaft and the circuit board. Without seeing what's broken, I would suggest you could get around a completely destroyed contact by creating a new one out of a few small loops of tinned copper wire with the tail soldered into the appropriate spot on the circuit board. Good luck, and let us know how you get on! Cheers, Greg
I pulled the key on my 2001 Maloo R8 apart and removed the battery then tested the battery and it reads 2.9 volts ..is 2.9 volts enough to work the key fob ? I may have other issues with the car not starting 🤔
Hi Ianharrd, Nice car mate! The new batteries were 3.25v, so yours do sound a bit low. However I'm pretty sure the battery only runs the remote transmitter, not the electrics in the key itself. Since I shot this video I've had one key fob transmitter stop working but it still starts the car fine. If your batteries are below 3v it wouldn't hurt to change them, but I doubt that's the cause of your beast not starting. Hope you find the culprit! Cheers, Greg
@@TheMusingGreg one thing that stumped me is that I thought I could de solder the tags/clip/circuit board mount off the old battery and stick it on the new one, however I'm having a really rough time with this!
Hi Steve, nope the solder tags are spot-welded onto the battery. You'll likely overheat the battery and possibly damage the seals if you try to solder the old tags onto the new battery. You'll also struggle to get the tags sitting flush against the battery if you solder it, which may prevent the key fob shell closing properly. Grab yourself a new battery which already has the tags on it and save yourself a lot of hassle.
Hi mate, check the description: www.retrosales.com.au/products/parts-modding-battery-save-game-cr2032-cr2025-cr2016-cr1616-tab-tabbed?variant=25772027216. It's tricky trying to solder to a button-cell battery as you have to scuff the surface first, then tin it, then do the soldering, and the heat from the soldering iron can damage the battery.
Hi Greg, Changed battery as per video and tried it but because the key had not been used for a while does the memory chip fade with time? And will it have to be reprogrammed?
Hi Sharon, I can't say for sure because I don't know how the code is stored. However I expect it WON'T lose the memory - I've done this successfully before after a key has stopped working properly, however I can't say for sure because the old battery may still have had enough charge to hold onto the program. I would say give it a go, you have nothing to lose but a bit of time about about $2 on a replacement battery, vs $100 or so for a new key. Good luck! Greg
No, it doesn't fade. It's a lot like a USB drive - so long as it's not damaged, the information on it will not slowly disappear. If you replace the battery and it still doesn't work, then it's either the wrong key (easy to do if you have more than one VR-VZ Commodore) or there is something wrong with another component like a damaged connection on the circuit board. Make sure the electrical "pin" (the metal bump next to the actual metal key) is there. Without it, your car will not start.
That connects the electronics of the fob to the vehicle and disables the immobiliser when you turn the key. Without this the engine will stay immobilised. If the central locking fails and you unlock the door with the key and set off the alarm, this pin is why you can turn the alarm off by inserting and turning the key.
Hi Andrew, the link's in the description if you expand it. But I got it from www.retrosales.com.au/products/parts-modding-battery-save-game-cr2032-cr2025-cr2016-cr1616-tab-tabbed?variant=25772027216. They still seem to have stock. Good luck!
Will a dead key battery stop the car from starting? I was unable to lock the car with the key buttons, key in ignition turns accessories on but as soon as I go to crank there is absolutely nothing. Red immobilizer light is still flashing so I tried what is says in the owners handbook which is to leave key in ignition in accessories for two hours then try but the red light kept flashing and would not crank
I haven't had that myself but if the key battery was completely dead it's possible the circuitry to turn off the immobiliser might not be able to run. It does sound like that might be happening although what you've tried should have worked. If you have the other key try that, otherwise I'd suggest changing the battery in the key you have as per the video and see if that helps. If not, you might have to get a new key from Holden as a last resort.
@@TheMusingGreg Thanks for the reply. Got a new aftermarket fob and a plug and play programmer from supercheap. Saw a few videos of it done with vt commodores, of course when i do it the programmer goes red not green. tried it a dozen times to no avail. So now I think I will have to get it trailered to a mechanic or an auto electrician.
Could it be a problem with the programmer possibly? It's hard if both the key and the programmer are aftermarket and can't be tested any other way. Supercheap may be able to confirm or deny if it's working or faulty? Otherwise I agree an auto electrician might be the next best option. Good luck!
@@raphgili7726 ended up being the body control module. was stuffed and wouldnt turn off the immobiliser so car wouldnt crank or would crank for a second and stop. central locking runs through the bcm I believe so that stopping working was probably all part of it
Hi Thomas, if you buy a replacement battery with the tags already attached (link in the description) you should be able to follow the directions and solder in the new one. Let me know if you get stuck.
hello mate i was looking at the link and the link is for a non rechargeable battery i know the battery is normally charged by the car in my case a vy is changing the battery to non rechargeable made any significant issues arise?
Hi mate no the key fob battery isn't a rechargeable one, it doesn't get recharged by the car, it's just a regular battery which needs replacing occasionally. The one I recommend is the same non rechargeable unit which is in the key fob originally.
No problems! It would work for it to be rechargeable, but a rechargeable battery would probably exhaust its charge discharge cycle lifespan before a lithium non rechargeable one ran out of charge. Plus less revenue for manufacturers from new keys!.
Hi mate, I probably can but am travelling full-time this year, currently in far north Queensland and heading towards NT! If you happen to be nearby I'd be willing to give it a crack.
Thanks mate.... I thought I read in forums, that the key memory was held in RAM, so if u removed the battery, it loses the code.... I guess not. Thanks!
My pleasure Steve. I'm pretty sure Holden would have designed it so the code algorithm is stored in flash memory rather than RAM, that's certainly how I would have designed it. It's also possible the algorithm IS stored in RAM as you suggest, but that the circuitry has enough capacitance to retain the RAM state for a little while while the battery was out, much like the clock radio code. I guess, if you're doing the change, get the new battery in as quickly as possible. Although as you can see, it doesn't take long to get the new battery in once the old one is out, the real work is on separating the casing! Cheers, Greg
For whatever reason, the "lost code" warning scared Commodore owners for years, and still does. I am here to tell you though, that I have owned 15 Commodores and have changed the battery in half a dozen keys easily and have never had a problem with any of them becoming unprogrammed, ever.
You could, but I don't think it's a good idea. For example, you might pay me say $80 including postage each way for me to buy a new battery and install it for you, but there's no guarantee it will get the fob working again. It might not be the battery which the problem, there could be some other issue with the key, or it may have lost its code somehow. And obviously without your vehicle, I couldn't test it at this end to make sure it's working before sending it back. So it might not work when you get it back, and then you're already out of pocket 1/3 of the price towards a brand new key.
Yep that will work. I got mine from Retro Sales for $1.80 each. www.retrosales.com.au/products/parts-modding-battery-save-game-cr2032-cr2025-cr2016-cr1616-tab-tabbed?variant=25772027216
I had a VS before this VY and replaced the battery the same way on that key. It's no problem, the super glue eventually lets go well before you need to replace the battery and you just reglue it. It may be different if you used a lot more glue but if you do you risk it getting on the electronics.
It's not essential but it definitely helps. Proper solder braid has powdered flux in it which melts with the heat of the iron. When it's new it works pretty well and is less messy than liquid flux. However it doesn't last forever so old braid doesn't tend to draw solder up so well. New braid is usually ok, but liquid flux just makes the process quicker on both, especially old braid, if you can handle a bit of mess!
I wonder why that didn't happen when I filmed this? You might be right if the battery is left out too long, but I've changed the battery twice on this remote using the method shown with no problems. So sorry but you're completely wrong to say the program gets lost as soon as the battery is removed.
