As soon as a heard your drink of choice for working on a Subaru was Arizona tea I knew you were in the PNW. Relocated from WA to NC a year ago, I think I’ll grab myself a green tea before getting started replacing my own. Thanks for the helpful video!
So glad I found your page. I have a gen 1 legacy turbo that's completely stock and have been looking to do upgrades. These videos have been helping alot!
I thank you for this video. It helped me to work on my 2011 Outback 6MT center diff. I opened the center diff and simply removed the viscous coupling disks. The car now works fine. Points to note are: No need to remove the gear linkage, the linkage does not come through the front casing on a 6 speed. I needed a slide hammer to pull the center diff cover off. It's tricky to reassemble. If the center diff is pushed all the way in first, the output shaft bearing cannot pass it. They all have to be slid in together. Hope this comment helps someone with a 6 speed MT. If your car 'hops' when warm when making sharp turns, the silicone inside your viscous coupler is screwed. Unless you're going off-roading, simply remove the viscous coupler disks and reassemble.
Without the disks, it would act as an open diff wouldn't it? My forester is a newer model that uses the brakes to control wheel spin. I don't see why it even needs a viscous diff.
I almost wonder if he's putting power to the rear at all without the discs, I think he's full front wheel drive now. From what I understand those discs heat up and expand if there's differences in the front wheel spin vs the rear, putting more power to the rear adding up to 50/50 split. Open diff means front or rear differential, those can be limited slip or open, open means 1 wheel on the front spins and 1 on the back, never power to all 4.
Thank you for this very useful post, it really helped us change the center differential in our Subaru. My daughters and I tackled this job recently in 110 degree heat, we cheated a bit as we had a two post lift though and didn't bother with crawling around on the ground. However, we did find that whether lying on your back on the ground or standing under your car, holding your arms/hands above your head is still very tiring. The only plus to being on your back is when you drop a tool, is it always just lying right next to you. We did have trouble draining the transmission oil because Subaru put a T60 torx to remove the drain plug, why they couldn't just use a 3/8 or 1/2 drive square is beyond me. The entire job took us about 4 non-rush leisurely hours, an inordinate amount of time was spent locating and unplugging all the O2 sensor plugs. We had to weld an exhaust manifold bracket back together as we discovered it had broken off. As we previously had removed this engine for a clutch job, all of the exhaust bolts had never-cease on them and were easily removed. Four tips that might help the next person are: choose a day that is not over a 100 degrees, to re-drive the pins holding the transmission shift lever I set it in the tip of a 3/8 extension to reach, when separating the transmission I drove the locator pins out with a punch from the aluminum case which separated very easily and then I put them back in before reassembly, use a little bit of liquid dish soap on the metal bayonet before trying to slide it into the rubber exhaust mounts.
Thanks!! that's awesome! that sounds like some pretty cool father daughter bonding time right there. and thanks for the tips, hopefully all this will save some people some headache down the line and show others most of the time you can fix it yourself on a budget!
Hack Squad Garage, how long did the replaced trans take for the center diff to go bad? Hoping I'm not going to kick myself for not doing this the first time.
Sorry for the late reply, it was bad immediately after putting the new transmission in, it was very disappointing, especially since she paid a shop to put it in almost $1700.
I just picked up an 02 WRX at the end of February and a week after owning it the center diff bearing started sounding terrible, I'm sure due to the lack of gear oil, so as long as it's basically the same process as this it shouldn't be too bad of a job. Appreciate you taking time to make a video explaining the process and parts needed
One incredibly useful tip for separating the usually fused together rear housing; use the hooked end of a crowbar and bang against the shifter stay rod mount (the horizontal shaft if it isn't obvious), pulling the diff from a parts car was a pain in the arse and my one was straight stuck and hammering did nothing, banged on it a few times using this method and it promptly cracked free, drained the remainder of the oil, then 3 hits later it came right off.
that roll pin in the shifter bushing took me two days to get out. the pin was seized and had to be drilled (and I ran out of good bits so i had to get more), the bushing was then seized to the shaft from the transmission, so we used a dremel with an extension to grind it off with a wheel. It was horrible but of course yours just pops out! haha
If you forget that race would it make a clunking noise? I just rwd swapped mine and welded the center diff, was running fine. Did some burnouts broke my output shaft and I think I forgot that race.
Hi do you know if a 2005 sti 6MT center differential will work for a 2006 sti 6MT? I understand the 2006 is expensive so im wondering if an 05 sti 6MT dccd will work for the 06 sti 6MT dccd model?
Great video guys. Was just wondering if you could just replace the bearing and reuse the old diff as it’s on the pricey side. I have a 2003 5spd outback and pretty sure I have a bad middle diff bearing as it makes such a bad noise. Might be more but I’ll see when I get it apart. Thanks again for the video.
Couple of absolute legends, fixing mum's car still wearing the wristband from the festival, drinking tea from a can! Nice boys! What did you think of our Holden SS over that side of the ocean?
Thank man, we love the holdens over here, anything LS or i6 turbo I'm into, I've only ever seen one holden hsv ute in person ever. Similar to our camaro and GTOs 🤘
Well done guys, I have a six speed Legacy GT I want to change the center diff on, do you guys have any idea of the torque specs on the transfer case, shift linkage and drive shaft?
Its hard to say because as far as i can tell there isnt a specific torque spec from subaru, some people say like 35-45ft-lbs but my brother asked the subaru master tech at his work and they just tighten them by hand until they stop. they arnt torque yield threads like head bolts, so as long as you have a new paper gasket you should be fine.
I’m in the middle of doing this and have a dumb question here: what else is holding the transmission besides that crossmember? Is it important to have a jack under it before removing the cross member? Or are the bolts into the block enough to support it?
I like to have a jack under the transmission before removing the cross member and then lower is slowly, it should be securely bolted to the engine so as long as your engine mounts are not completely broken (you would notice) its fine to let it hang like we did, ive done this 3 or 4 more times since this video and had no issues. plus having the tail of the transmission hang down a bit helps to get access to all the bolts.
Here's the part # for that transfer case extension gasket: 33179AA030 parts.subaru.com is goofy. They put the above as fits a 2001 Forester manual transmission, but not a 2002 Forester manual transmission. So, I took a chance (since they're the same transmission!) and bought it, and sure enough, it fits perfectly (as expected). Thanks again for your video, it was very helpful! The hardest part (by far) was pounding out and in those 2 embedded pins in the shifter linkage. Ugh... Why couldn't they have just use a bolt there?
Hey there, great video! I have the same problem in a 2010 gen 5 manual. Do you know if the job is the same? I looked at the casing and it looks very similar. Thanks for the help!
Hack Squad, My car does the clunking when turning after the car is warm and thanks to your video I am currently purchasing the parts to do this job. Only thing is that the car recently started a whirring sound after about 20 minutes on the freeway too. Did your car have that sound also? I am hoping these two symptoms are coming from the same problem. Any advice is appreciated.
Ryan Araujo No problem, it's hard to say without hearing the sound obviously, but it very well could be the center differential making that whirring sound, especially if it does it after warming up like you said, it might be that bearing that the center differential rides in is worn out as well, the new differential comes with it attached already. When you take it out inspect the gears in the transfer case, the ones we took out in the video, make sure they aren't damaged or chipped, but to me it sounds like its that differential, I'd start there.
After driving for about 20 minutes and the transmission is hot, the center differential would bind and pop while turning sharply in a parking lot, you could feel it bind and release.
Good video on this, thanks. But I'm getting some mixed signals here. So a Subie master tech told you to use a gasket on that? I recently talked to a Subie parts guy and he said absolutely no gasket because of clearance tolerance, and that they didn't even have a gasket listed for that application. He said Fuji Bond is recommended, or else Yama Bond or Honda Bond. But there are different ones. Local Honda bike dealer only has the 4, and I believe I need the HT. I've also read that 3m ultra pro 08672 can be used. As long as it's a anaerobic sealant. Any feedback on this? I need to do mine soon. And I'm NOT paying $70 for a tube of Fuji Bond.
SKORPIO 69 my brother works at subaru and he spoke with a subaru master tech, he said for this year it takes a gasket only, we got the gasket from his dealership for like $8, 10k miles later and it hasn't leaked a drop so I'd say he was right.
The gasket is an oem part and is exactly what came from the factory on any 5 speed. However if you split the entire transmission case there is no gasket for that just rtv. Hope this helps
Iv got a 99 impreza outback sport 2.2l 5speed that had the center differential implode.... diff shaft and insides fell out after pulling off the diff cover but i believe the outside casing of the differential is stuck, cant get it too slide out.....could anyone tell me what years and models of subarus that are "phase ll" with a 3.9 FD ratio and have a compatible center diff i could use? i pulled one off of a 97 Legacy L wagon 2.2l at the junkyard just to find out that i cant use it unless i go back and yank the rear end out as well...
So I believe your car would have a phase 1 5 speed even though your engine is technically a phase 2 ej222. If you have that bad of catastrophic damage you might want to change the entire transmission just incase there's shrapnel inside the rest of it. But I believe the 5 speeds switched over to phase 2 in 2000 for the legacy and 04 for the impreza. What you need to do is find a transmission and write down the code on the transmission bell housing, Google that code and you can find the ratios, most 5 speed have all the same 1:1 center differential but some like the wrx has a 1.1:1 ratio center differential, so the front diff in the transmission would be a 3.9 bit the rear diff would be a 3.54. All early US legacy and imprezas should have a 1:1 center diff regardless of the final drive ratio of the car. I looked it up and 97 legacy has a 1:1 center diff and a 3.9fd ratio. So it should work just fine, Google 'subaru transmission chart' and you'll find the gearhack.com site that has all the ratios.
I suspect my center diff in my Legacy Gt is on its way out. There is a bearing noise that seems to happen now in all forward gears under acceleration and decel. I'm crossing my fingers that the noise isn't coming from the transmission. I haven't experienced any of the more dramatic symptoms you described. I was wondering why you chose to replace the entire diff and didn't just replace the bearing. Was there wear to the metal where the bearing rides?
Well in our case the center diff itself was actually binding up when it got hot, that bearing made noise but the actual diff was bucking the whole car when turning, when that happens there is no choice but to change the entire diff or trans, plus you need a press to change that bearing. we had no ware marks on where the bearing rides, it was perfect. your issue sounds a bit more like the input shaft bearing, i've had that go out on one of my 5 speeds, it sounded similar to what you described, you can change the bearing but you have to split the case and pull the input shaft out to change the bearing around it.
It's pretty sweet. If push comes to shove I will remove the Trans myself but probably have a professional crack it open and make the necessary repairs.
my 2005 legacy 5 speed was in a wreck, and the front driver wheel was hit and stopped and skidded and the other 3 kept turning to get the car off the road, i have the car on stands and i tried putting it in gear to see if all the wheels turn, the rear wheels both turn fine and the driver side cv boot turns (axle is disconnected) but the front passenger side (not damaged side) doesnt get any power. i went through all the gears, theres no grinding or anything, and the passenger wheel turns freely, but it doesnt get power from the engine. any ideas whats wrong?
The front differential is not an lsd it's an open diff, so if you have a broken axel or one of them is disconnected like that, that's the problem, replace the axle and I bet it will work just fine.
Hack Squad Garage the axle that’s disconnected is disconnected at the cv boot, so the cv cup is still connected to the trans/diff/ whatever. The axle is disconnected at the tripod, would that still cause the issue?
@@garrisonk8627 yes it would, with an open differential the power/motion takes the path of least resistance, thus the broken axle spinning around and around. If you can replace the axle and any bent control arms or anything else damaged it should work normally.
I had the same one on my 03 Outback Sport! They say they are better than the $900 Bosal, something about how they don’t crack and bend. I think I paid around $120 for mine, worth every penny!
I have been having a similar problem with my Impreza binding at low speed turns after warmup, CVs look fine so I think it has to be the diff. After watching a ton of videos I feel confident to do this job myself but I’m relatively new to repairs (have done brakes, suspension, but not much else). How difficult would you rank this one? Never worked on the undercarriage before. I have all the tools and I can take as much time as I need as I don’t rely solely on my car to get around, so if it takes a few days it’s not a big deal.
Just got done opening the trans case and pulling the diff. Wasn’t too bad but the smell of transmission oil made me want to puke. Tomorrow I reassemble everything!
@@djstatyk1540 it wasn’t too bad, honestly not that complicated at all just a bit time consuming and uncomfortable to do laying on the ground under jack stands. kinda sucks reattaching heavy parts while laying down, i kept dropping the driveshaft. if you can get an extra pair of hands to help you it’s probably much easier to do most of the work.
I'm a bit late to the party, but how did you diagnose that it was the center diff issue and not a complete transmission? My car is having some crazy noise from somewhere and I don't want to spend more than I need!
Most people just replace the transmission because they dont want to mess with the center diff, we figured it out basically by process of elimination, we replaced all the axles, ball joints etc. and the number one clue was it binding when turning very sharp, only after the car was hot, so after 20-30 mile drive and you pull int a parking spot. you could feel the torque split between the front and rear binding and popping and letting go. if its just a whiny noise and never changes its likely one of the bearings in the transmission, those are cheaper to replace but the transmission would have to come out and be disassembled, unless its one of the ones in the transfer case where we removed the center diff, those are easy.
Was there any trick to how you got it out I'm currently doing this on my 2002 WRX and it is being stubborn the different self won't slide out Any help is appreciated
My 03 wrx just started making this horrible clunky noise when turning, after warm up. :( replace drive shaft and Axle thinking that this would solve my problem unfortunately no. sounds like this could be my problem. Great fix Video :)
trojan650 yeah it sounds like your center differential, but as you can see it not that bad to change. Cheaper than buying a new transmission in most cases.
I have a 2004 Impreza 5-speed manual with 156,000 miles. I started getting random clicking that I can feel in the stick shift handle. It does it cold and warm. I bought the car recently and didnt check the manual transmission oil beause I wasn't aware I could. It was 1.75 quarts low. It holds 3.75 quarts so it had 2 qts in the oil pan. But the oil is super black, like 10,000 mile diesel motor oil and smells a little burnt perhaps. Refilling to Full made the clicking much better, but it didn't go away completely. Manual clutch oil was and is full and clean. Do you think I've toasted the transmission? What should I do? Flush the tranny oil a few times? Use any additives? Thanks!
Oooof yeah that's not good, it sounds like the transmission got really really hot being low on fluid, the lack of lubrication would destroy the bearings and possibly the center differential. There's no telling what internally is damaged without fully disassembling it. But it's cheaper to just replace the transmission than rebuild it. If you want to try something in the meantime while you search for a new transmission I would flush the fluid at least once. But I would not put too much money in it if you have to replace it.
bassman009 I've never taken a 6 speed apart, but from what I've seen it's essentially the same process to take the center differential out, there might be a a few more things to unhook if it's dccd.
The Driver’s Control Centre Differential (DCCD) allows the centre differential locking of the WRX STI to be dialed in and adjust its handling. its only in the 6 speed transmissions and I am not sure if yours would have this or not, some years had it and some didnt, ive never had a 6 speed of my own.
My problem on mine is on deceleration while driving dont hear anythin soon as i decel i hear like a rattling noise... shifts smooth no problems turning no noise also 5spd manual.. im sure its trans but no sure wat... anything wud help
Ruben Gonzalez without hearing the noise it's really hard to say, it wouldn't be the center differential, it sounds like it might be either the input shaft bearing, or one of the thrust bearings on the gear shafts, it's also possible it could be the pilot bearing or throw out bearing. But my guess would be one of the main thrust bearings on the gear shafts is messed up. We are working on a 5 speed that had a similar sound right now, once we got it apart it was thrust bearing and not the input shaft bearing like we thought, so we are swapping all the internals from another one we had with a broken case. That video will be out soon, maybe it will help more.
yeah it would be easier to just get another transmission, but if i were you, just to be sure id take it in to a shop or dealership and ask for a diagnosis only, they will likely say the same thing and you need a new transmission. if you have some basic tools you can swap a transmission in a weekend, its a lot easier than it seems.
No it wouldn't be the center differential. That sounds more like the throw out bearing if the noise goes away when the clutch in pressed in. If it doesnt then it's either the pilot bearing or the input shaft bearing of the transmission. Hopefully it's the pilot bearing in the flywheel as you have to fully disassemble the transmission to replace the input shaft bearing. 9 time's out of 10 it's the throw out bearing which is why I only use oem throw out bearings.
@@HackSquadGarage I had a bad Engine mount which under heavy acceleration was pulling out my front left hand driveshafts. Maybe the pilot bearing for damaged during this? Unfortunately I did not check it when I split the gearbox to look for damage (and found none !) I also replaced the throw out bearing while I pulled the box so there isn't many things left ...
@@Booki89 it's possible I guess, never seen that happen, but I would hope id's the pilot bearing because if it's making noise while in neutral whether the clutch is in or not it might be the input shaft bearing. If it has high mileage it might be that.
If you are doing this in the car like we did it is not necessary to support the trans with a jack, you can if you want but it won't hurt anything and it will limit the amount of room you have to work around the transfer case.
How much and where did you get the paper gasket for the transmission? I can only find auto transmission gaskets for some reason. Fixing my center diff on my 99 Legacy Brighton with a 5 speed as we speak!
Daniel Champion I don't have the part numbers handy but I was able to go down to the subaru dealership where I got the center differential from and bought it with it. I think it was less $10.
Yeah I figured it out, right around 20 shipping and handling. My dealership I closed when I get off work so I gotta get em shipped to me. Also, did you ever figure out the torque specs for the trans case? 😉
oh nice! no we never did, we've been wrenching on these cars for a long time so im pretty confident in doing it by hand, we just tightened them by hand until they wanted to stop, hasn't leaked a drop since we made this video.
Was the car making a really loud popping noise at low speeds (15mph) and when turning by any chance? Cause I'm thinking this could be what my current problem is with my car
Sort of, that sounds more like a cv axle than a center diff, ours would drive fine going straight, but once you drove about 20 miles and tried to turn sharply at low speeds, like in a parking lot, you could feel the wheels binding and you'd hear a clunking sound. That's the main symptoms of a bad center diff.
@@HackSquadGarage yeah I thought mine was a CV as well but I changed it plus a wheel bearing and lower ball joint and still have the sound. Mine only makes noise after I've driven about 15+ miles, and it only makes noise when cornering slowly, it's all quite when driving straight slow or fast
@@andrewmarsh6586 yeah that does sound like a center diff if that's what it's doing, as you saw its pretty easy to change. I've gotten them out of the junk yard for really cheap if you can't afford it brand new.
@@andrewmarsh6586 the transfer case is like 18ftlbs and the rear cover is like 30ftlbs. Here's a pdf of the assembly. ken-gilbert.com/wrx/STi_Manual/04.%20TRANSMISSION/04.%20MANUAL%20TRANSMISSION%20AND%20DIFFERENTIAL%20(5MT)/09.%20Transfer%20Case%20and%20Extension%20Case%20Assembly.pdf
Hey it’s been a while since this video was posted but I have a question. Are the parts mentioned in the video the same parts for a 2002 WRX 5 speed transmission and center diff? Edit: just read through the other comments and found my answer to this question. Another question, what symptoms were you experiencing with the bad diff? My 2002 WRX wagon jolts really bad during SLOW speed turns and also during light and hard acceleration through all gears and I was wondering if this car was going through the same thing.
Yeah its pretty much the exact same parts, as long as the new differential is the sale generation of 5 speed. We were experiencing the center differential binding and popping jolting the car while turning sharp and slow into parking spots. Sounds like you might have the same problem.
Usually once the transmission is warm it will bind and pop while turning sharp under throttle, if it's bad enough you can sometimes have one of the tires chirp.
I may have to replace the center diff on my 03 WRX. Above 25 mph it makes a whining noise that increases in volume and frequency with speed. The sound is unrelated to engine speed, clutch in/out, gear or neutral, and accel/decel. I ran my car on a lift and the sound is definitely coming from the transmission area. Most people with bad center diffs on the forums and RU-vid have also experienced binding in sharp turns, however, I have not. Does this sound like a bad center diff, bad bearing(s), or something else? Great video btw.
If its not binding while turning the diff is probably not the issue, you could have an issue with the input shaft bearing, or maybe one of the bearings in the transfer case, you could try changing the gear oil with some fresh synthetic 75w-90. usually a whining noise like this on Subaru's comes from the rear diff, but i have had input shaft bearings go out and make bad sounds, usually does it all the time tho even at a stop, another option could be one of the front diff bearings could be going out and causing the preload on the front diff/pinion to be off causing gear whine. you could get the car up and use a stethoscope on the transmission to see where in the transmission its coming from, that might give you a better clue to whats wrong with it.
So I got around to changing out the bearings in my center diff, which solved my problem. Specifically I changed out the bearing on the viscous unit itself, the two roller bearings on the shaft, and the bearing that bolts to the back of the transmission tail case. If your symptoms match those that I previously described, this will probably fix it. I recommend finding one of many write ups on NASIOC for guidance. You will need a bearing puller and want a buddy for help. Just put the bearings in the oven and shafts in the freezer before pressing on. Hope this helps!
Thank you so much guys! Please don't sell this car. 3rd Gen Legacy owners need all the help we can get. I feel like I have to visit Japan or Vancouver just to meet someone who knows about BH5s. Peace fellas from San Diego.
Heels2Cheezus Hahaha thanks for watching! Yeah we're not getting rid of this car anytime soon, my mom driveshaft it every day, weven put to muchas work into it at those point lol.
@@albertmoua9551 they had different gear ratios for different applications but the transfer case is basically the same design on all 5 speed transmissions.
Yes it would be the same process with any subaru 5 speed. You can sometimes even get a new center differential out of a used or blown up transmission for cheap.
It's a viscous differential so there's not really a way to tell if it's bad without it out of the car, usually when they get really bad you can see heat marks on them, but otherwise it's a gamble.
@@spenvax so it's a sealed unit so the only thing I can sometimes see is color changes in the metal, but that only happens if it gets extremely hot. It can be bad and not be able to tell.
Thanks! Not really no, our issue was the center diff binding while turning very sharply, it was actually breaking the tires free and clunking very loudly. If it does it all the time you might have an issue with the gears in the transfer case (the ones we took out in the video) or possibly the input shaft bearing which is very common on Subaru transmissions. it might be a good idea to take it in for a diagnosis, its just too hard to say without experiencing it. Thanks for watching!
What happens if all my bolts and stuff are rusted? I should probably just throw it away, the whole car... UUHHHG!!! I know my life will suck if I attempt it anyway, but I really have no other choice. The diff needs replaced. Really appreciate the video guys.
You'll have to take your time one bolt at a time, look up some rusted bolt removal videos online, there's tons of video on how to address it. Other than the rusty bolts it's not too bad of a job! Good luck!
Pretty sure I forgot that race because it sounds terrible now.. Getting a whining and grinding noise on the accelerator only after the swap! I think I need to tear it down again and inspect. Thanks again! @@HackSquadGarage
It's my mom's car and at the time we had other projects going so she just paid a shop to replace the transmission, but that transmission had the exact same issue with less miles. So we replaced the differential
@@HackSquadGarage my grandmother did that once. She took her accord to a shop before asking me first. They sold her on a timing belt while in for an oil change. Which, yeah it was due, but she could have consulted me before moving forward with the job. But she had them do it, and they used the red mark on the balancer and not the white mark. Timing was off 1 tooth and her engine was pinging on acceleration. And so I had to fix their nonsense. If you want something done right, gotta do it yourself.
Yes as long as it's not a super late gen 2, it is NOT the same as a GD/GG Impreza or a BH/BE Legacy however, the splines are similar but not identical and to make a newer diff work in an older trans or vice-versa, you need to replace most if not all of the actual gear (as in drive gears) assembly.
@@96MustangBoy1 obviously all I can do is guess, but it could be the center differential bearings or an axle, I'd check the axles first. Possibly look at the driveshaft carrier bearing also. Something like that you really have to be there to look at it.
yup thats the hardest part is not contaminating it. ive also used only RTV on that with no leaks, not ideal but you gotta do what you gotta do sometimes.
it depends on the car i guess, we paid $550ish for all the parts, but shops will charge you a mark up as well and then labor on top of that, so depending on the hourly rate and what they are charging for parts that sounds about right.
Hack Squad Garage they replaced my axle and steering boots and the very next day my car was making noise took it back and they said the bearing is bad? is that related?
Aaron Bills which bearing? Wheel bearings go bad all the time and make a lot of noise and sometimes if they are old enough they don't survive an axle change, but there's no way changing an axle would make the center differential just go out if that's what you mean, they usually go bad from driving on a donut too long, or towing the car on 2 wheels which is a big no no, or just some times they just get worn out.
Jesus fuck. I bought a uses transmission for $150 and it kicks ass. $500?! To fix a transmission that you already swapped on to it.... FUCK ....i know this was years ago, but FUCK!!!
Yeah at the time she already paid $1700 to have a shop put a transmission in to fix this exact issue. So she wasn't wanting to gamble with another junk yard transmission
