How to Change the Rear Differential Fluid on a 1988-1998 Silverado K1500 

I appreciate the tip and thanks for stopping by!

@@bossadamsgarage Impact gun, Son. You can spray all of the crap you want on there but you best be willing to wait a good long time for it to penetrate enough to matter any if you're gonna muscle it out. Any decent impact gun will zip it right out of there. When you're torquing things down that require more than 1 fastener I'd recommend that you sneak up on the specific torque in increments evenly rather than hammering the fasteners down to torque spec. A lot less chance of pinching a gasket or bending something. With your cover for instance, set your torque wrench for 20 ft.lb or so and torque them all, then 25, and then finish at 30. If you're doing a set of heads you may want to start at 30 or 40 and go up 20 ft/lb each pass.

@catdakman1273 I took your advice 🤙thx U

Now why didn't I think of that!

Exactly! just don't cheap out on the materials you use. I know it might seem cost effective at times to go use the cheaper brand but in my experience, cheaper is not better. Us a good quality adhesive.

Ida done that 4 years ago. Today gotta pinch pennys and reuse things. I just work to pay bills now, I used to have extra at the end of the week.

Yes in my opinion. From what I've read and heard from some mechanics, 75w-90 is actually considered a better oil over the standard 80w-90 recommended for the truck.

I would trust mine too. Some of the trucks from this era are worn out and would have a hard time. The best thing about these trucks is if anything went wrong, its extremely affordable to fix them.

@@bossadamsgarage thank you 🙏🏿

1800 lbs lol thats sissy stuff i had over 2 tons in the bed of a 1994 single cab long bed all weights off a pulling unit talk about heavy i blew a tire on the trip 40 miles it was sitting on frame took 3 jacks to change the tire.

I only deviated slightly because I talked to several of my mechanic friends and found enough support for their claims that 75w-90 was actually a little better than 80w-90. The choice is completely up to you of course. I just chose to give it a shot and I've been pleased thus far.

I wouldn't use synthetic oil mine calls for 80 90 weight and its alot cheaper I learned the hard way and it cost me about a hundred dollars

@@robertaustin1945 why not synthetic?

​@Boss Adams Garage what's their reason on the 75-90?

Good thing replacements are inexpensive. I would replace all of them if I were you.

I appreciate it! Glad I could help!

🙏🙏🙏 didn’t have to put it like that lmao but yeah fuck that guy

Take a look on Summit Racing's website or my personal favorite, Rockauto. You should be able to find one there.

Yes it was a fel-pro. I prefer fel-pro and good name brands when it comes to the gaskets. There is plenty of cheaper options out there on amazon but I felt that it was necessary to go the name brand route. I got the gasket link in the description if you wanna pick it up.

Sadly I do not.

i do not think you need it if you use synthetic oil

from my understanding with these trucks you dont need additive even if you have the g80 lsd.

You can use either one. I chose to use 75-90 bc all the forums and mechanics I talked to said it would be an upgrade over the standard 80-90 that the truck says is required.

I used 75w 145. Perfect for worn-out bearings last another 300k

Any fluid better than nothing

Ya I probably should, but it’ll do for now. Right now though the paint is holding up. We’ll see how long it lasts lol

If you have the time, just place it in vinegar for 24hrs. Baking soda afterwards briefly to neutralize the vinegar. Sand and paint. After it's reinstalled, apply fluid film and forget about it until next time.

Sadly that's over budget. Paid thousand dollars for my truck

75w-90, that’s what I run in mine bc it’s technically an upgrade from the 80w-90 that was in it originally. Supposedly tends to last longer too but I’m in the process of testing that theory now.

@@bossadamsgarage what were the results of your test

So far no complaints. It has been a little over a year now, it has no weird sounds and it still seems very smooth.

2 1/2 & 1/2 wrench

My axle is leaking differential fluid , I think I'm gonna try to put stop leak in it.

You could try that. I did not mix anything with mine. Just make sure when you replace that gasket you clean all residual old gasket off first.

Ok gotcha....... have you by chance had problems with gas leaking from the vents on the bottom of the tank ? I'm trying to figure out how to detect the leak before I go dropping the tank.

I would say yes, but technically no. It's really just precautionary.

I used only Rtv hand tight & let dry two days, then tighten bolts

Good to know!

@@bossadamsgarage same goes for the replacement brakehoses etc, if you spring a few bucks more for the gm replacements it comes with the needed brackets etc saves alot of grief trying to restore rusted brackets

haha well depending on how well kept the truck was, it could either be a laundry list or simple tweaks. I would first start with the basic maintenance (air filter, oil, fluid levels). Then I'd step it up and change the plugs, wires, rotor button, and cap. Once you knock those out I would recommend the fuel filter. After all that, then you can kinda listen out for what could be probable issues. But doing that stuff should get that truck running right. To top things off, Id also run mid or premium gas. If the motor hasn't been apart in years, its a good idea to run higher octane gas to help get some of those carbon deposits out.

Heat or some pb blaster might help get that bolt to unseize. Just make sure when you're trying to loosen it you take your time and work it slowly. Changing both at the same time is probably not a bad idea. I only did the rear in this video because I had already done my front not long before the video.

That is an option, however, if you have the tools at home it's pretty easy just to throw a new coat of paint on it.

@@bossadamsgarage well i have a show truck and I'm gonna go with a chrome one. thanks for the video, it helps alot

We eventually will, we’re waiting getting a couple ideas now. More mods to come!

Much smoother than before! I could actually feel the difference.

Interesting

@@bossadamsgarage what was smoother about it? Accelerating or shifting ? Or just all around a smoother ride

All around smoother ride, especially from a complete stop to a hard acceleration.

Glad to hear that!

What you saw in the video is all I did to that rear end.

if it is not synthetic oil i believe you need the additive in a posi.

True but at the time I didn’t have another garage to use. Now, I have my own garage to work in!

@@bossadamsgarage Thank you for the video never the less. Congrats on your garage!

I appreciate it!

plus i believe chevy calls for 80w90 gl5

Ya their was still a good bit of rust. I was just having to do it in a short period of time because I needed the truck the next morning. The next time I change the fluid I’m going to make sure I have more time so I can really get it down to that bare metal.

he did the best he could with tools that he had available. the outside is just for looks, inside business end was clean.

Glad I could help!

Well your correct in saying it’s a Chevy pickup…but the body style is split to year 99….I own a 99 Chevy k1500 pickup…so you could have a pickup or a Silverado all in the same year….yea I was confused at first as well…

This is patently false. Silverado is a TRIM PACKAGE. I have a 1996 C1500 Silverado. It has a bunch of options that the base model does not. You're absolutely incorrect.

I wish I could post a picture to show mister know-it-all here a picture of my truck which is a 92 Chevy 1500 Silverado and I know it is a Silverado because it clearly has a badge by the door that says Silverado. It was a trim package in 1992 so therefore some people might call their pick up a Silverado regardless of what may have happened in the years following

You’re wrong. Silverado is a trim level

😂