This is an awesome build series! I am currently ripping apart my 1990 Chevy Single cab long box! Lots of good ideas coming from your videos! Keep it up!
that oil sure was black ,and didn't look like there was much of it in the housing , I just put in a Eaton's tru-trac in my 1991 GMC 1500 ,hopefully you are going to do the transfer case and front diff ,man that truck is in really good shape and it will be with you looking after it so well.
@old biker I agree with there not being much oil in the housing, everything looked ok though. We have videos on removing the front diff and transfer case. We had a shop go through them and replace and the seals, they are back in the truck already!
IF YOu don't have a magnet, GET ONE. I have had great success with this method...WAITING a day before filling with the Gear LUBE. I love Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I have never seen anyone CLEAN the inside with brake cleaner. Impressive.
Hmmm, should have made sure the fill plug was loose before starting. If it can't be removed and you've drained the oil you're now stuck. Also despite saying to tighten in a star pattern that isn't what happened. Apart from that, great video.
dumb design on screw in plugs they seize up. Why not a tight rubber plug insert ? I'm about to drill through the rear at the full level suction out the old fluid, fill and insert a rubber plug from another truck maker $3.50 I can't find the breather on this rear axle.where a youtuber refilled the diff.
Anytime you take the cover off you should take a gear tooth pattern. If the contact area has wandered off center, now would be a perfect time to shim it back.
Imo first step in any fluid change should be pull the fill plug just to make sure its not siezed and you dont end up with an empty gearbox with no way to fill it.
Typically what I’ll do is use one of the paper gaskets and put a think layer of rtv on the hog head all the way around until there’s no bare metal showing then stick the gasket on and coat the other side of the gasket with a thin layer just enough so that if there’s any imperfections in the surfaces the rtv will fill them.
I was changing out my drivers side wheel bearing & noticed that i had the infamous G80 locker in my 8.5" 10 bolt 2002 Blazer ZR2. I still have a bad bearing sound, but idk what's going on or where it's coming from. It starts whining at 25mph & gets louder, so it's driveline related. I have zero play on that drivers side rear, but i have a little clunky in/out play on that pass side rear. If i put a noise thing up to the diff, that's where I'm getting most of my noise. O'Reilly's told me mine took 85-90 2qrts. I put both quarts in, but it didn't fill it up to the hole. I'm glad i guess since i gotta tear everything apart again. I'll try & change that passenger side bearing & see what happens. Everything inside was clean & very little shavings were on that cover magnet. This has me confused. I hear you can tighten that yoke a bit, but it's all tight & no leaks anywhere. Baffling
Thank you for the excellent videos- they have definitely helped me take on a few maintenance tasks on my k1500. Question- is there benefits to using gasket maker vs just ordering the actual gasket? If it is simply for convenience, that is totally understandable. I am just curious 🙂
I did a new cover gasket and fluid this weekend and the moron who owned it before ruined the fill plug socket. Would anyone know what part number I could use as reference for ordering one?
Have you driving it and did your brake get better because when I was bleeding my brakes I bleed the front first got a hard peddle half way but when I bleed the back it don’t feel that good and the peddle is half way for it to brake I think it’s only using the front to brake
@The Go kart King Still working on the front end, we will be following up on the brakes soon though. We may have taken more apart at once than we should have haha
Start with right rear then left rear right front then drivers front and should get all air out of system. Be sure to keep your brake fluid full after each wheel and you should have great brakes. If you still have mushy brakes your master cylinder might be bypassing bleeding off pressure. The best thing is to start with your master cylinder looking for a small leak where it bolts to the booster or firewall if manual brakes and check each cylinder and caliper as you replaced your brakes also look for pinhole or seeping along brake lines and junctions. If you have a bad booster it might work perfectly 99 times and then fail and you have only manual braking which will require pumping brakes and maybe using ebrake. If in doubt replace it because brakes are extremely important but can be aggravating when you have troubles. I’m hoping this’ll help you find your problem. Good luck 👍🏻
My 1989 Silverado smokes when it cold and it smoke constantly so I rev it up to 3k and throws smoke and goes away and won’t smoke no more what could it be
@@hunger997I build diffs and trans for a living. I always use permatex right stuff on old stock diff covers because they are notorious for leaking, especially if they've been taken off a few times. They get slightly bent sometimes and won't seal without some rtv. I will usually use a gasket on a new diff or a new aftermarket cover. I've had so many customers come back over the years for a leaking diff cover and its always when I would use a gasket on a old diff cover
LOL never use brake clean inside your just suturing shit inside you don't need to do unless your going to take the whole thing apart and then you are going to need a very large dunk tank. I have been doing this for 47 years let the stuck particles stay put.
I really like your channel but I don't understand why you're not just using a fell pro or a factory gasket on it you don't need RTV on the differential to seal it so what is your reasoning?
