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AWESOME VIDEO THANK YOU SIR 🫡 Just completed this job on a 2009 Pontiac Wave G3 4 Door 1.6L Ecotech and this video was invaluable. Step by step this video is on point with clear instructions. I didn't take out the battery or remove the component panel to get the last bolt off the housing, and the bolts that held metal line on were male torx instead but these could be a difference in model. Anyhow, thank you again and many blessings upon you 🙏✝️💯
Thank you for this. I watched a couple of other videos and you were the only one that mentioned the need to replace the throttle body heater inlet pipe. Definitely can’t miss this step. Cheers!
only video i found that mentioned throttle body heater inlet pipe, mine broke and couldn't figure out what it was called, let alone why it led into air intake... GREAT video! THANK-YOU!!
In this video I like how it gives the step by step in order for someone like me could fix it that is great. So far all the videos I watch of how to fix my car this one is right for me step by step again thank you One Trick Tech.
Thank you for posting this. It took me a bit longer working in a garage in about 10 F degree weather but got it done. I now have a leak with the little metal tube that runs to the water pump. I think I moved it around too much when I was pulling the housing out.
Sure was not the pipe leaking? Great video mate. I purchase new pipe from China and housing. The pipe feel very hard. I purchase them in 2019. But going thru too much water now. I have to do the job. Annoyed as the same leak was repair under warranty in 2018 and in 2019 the leak was back, but only very little. I going do it today, cheers Graham
@@OneTrickTech thx mate. Funny those trox female socket r like $40 from auto parts store, here in Australia. U got buy a set. Just have to 3 days as I got them online for under $19
Thanks for the video. Are you concerned about greasing the gasket? How do you determine if it doesn't have a chemical reaction and eat away at the rubber? Specific grease to use? I've watched a few of these and your the only one I've seen grease so wanted to ask before I do mine. Thanks again.
Hey there, I use silicone grease, (its the same grease that goes on the guide pins for your brakes), that's just my habits when dealing with any rubber gaskets or O-rings. I tend to apply a small amount of grease so they go in nice and easy. I haven't had any issues with chemical reactions so it's safe to do. You're welcome for the video glad you found it helpful!
Original served 12 years, I'll replace with GM Genuine and forget about it. Well worth the $90. This engine is still perfect and untouched at 95k. Why compromise? New cars are dreadfully priced and loaded with potential new tech problems.
12:49 the inlet tube/ opening that is not being used is where I have my leak coming from. Just watch out for that, I would verify that it is sealed before installing. Replaced mine with the full metal housing and they have the same inlet/outlet hole that is supposedly sealed
I highly suggests to replace the inlet tube, because it attaches to the thermostat housing and that's where it usually breaks, inside the housing. They're both plastic parts so they will eventually break after many heat cycles. For the grease I use clear silicone grease ( the one for the brake guide pins) or you can even use some dielectric grease. Hope that helps!
You said there's two temperature sensors. I think the one nearer the rear of the engine bay is the sensor. The one nearer the front or radiator is a heater that controls the thermostat position.
yes just a simple burb process, wait for operating temperature then put the heat on max and rev the engine to 2k rpm for about 5min and you should be good
Gracias por tu apoyo. Que le pusiste al junta de platico ? Cambie la toma de agua por una de metal y por un tiempo no tuve fugas despues continuo una pequeña fuga ya no se que hacer ,me podrías apoyar con ese paso , gracias
if the gaskets are new , try to put some black gasket maker it will help seal amzn.to/3ODBjc2 Si las juntas son nuevas, intente colocar un fabricante de juntas negro que ayudará a sellar. amzn.to/3ODBjc2
No. Use the OEM hose (ac delco) they sell it on amazon. It's going to be a perfect fit and you won't have to worry about future leaks. Any other hose won't guarantee a perfect seal and it might leak. Save yourself the headache. Hope that helps!
There is another o-ring at the throttle body, where the vent line hose from the reservoir connects. Replace that while you're in there. Both o-rings are 5/16, a kit of 4 is $10.
Question: do you have to replace the inlet tube when replacing a housing or is it for this scenario because the reasoning for my leak is their was a hairline crack on the foundation to the housing in this necessary for my situation?
I highly suggest you replace the inlet tube because its just as old as the thermostat housing and its only a matter of time until it cracks. Replace both so you wont have to go back.
Does this work for a 2015 1.4l Chevy sonic turbo? I just ordered this part waiting on it to get here.. but I don’t have the sensor ontop my outlet hose like this one does.
Its a different part for the 1.4L turbo, but the concept is the same. Its a plastic housing with a few hoses attached to it, getting to it will be a different procedure.
My new throttle body inlet hose where it plugs into the housing, after putting the clip on, still moves up and down a bit? Not sure whats going on here im relictant to test it because im sure it shouldent be so loose
make sure you lube the o-ring and press down. You need to apply a bit of pressure so the o-ring can sit all the way down. remove the clip and try again
Just changed this garbage part for the 2nd time in 4 years, the PCM does not need to be removed unless you must use an impact ratchet. The E10 socket is a bit to bulky to get in there on a 3/8 ratchet, but an 8mm deep well socket 1/4 dr ratchet is perfect to access the bottom bolts. I do not like to remove unnecessary items which risks creating additional problems. The cam position sensor doesnt need unplugged either. Just my 2 cents otherwise a good how to video for a DIY.
I replaced everything except the housing I replaced the thermostat only but not the housing and I have a coolant leak still so do you think it's the housing?
Thanks for your help. One more question I promise. It looks like the two back heater hoses are opposite on my 2012 cruze, with the bottom going to the coolant res. Is this possible?
The silver metal tube that connects to the housing I notice mine has RTV gasket maker. Do I have to apply the RTV on the metal tube ? That’s where my leak is .
@@robertpriddy1808 oh okay I see, yea you can add a bit of black rrtv to the o-ring. Its hard to find the exact replacement o-ring for the hose. So yea add some RTV it will help seal!
you want the o-ring only or the whole inlet tube assembly? For the inlet tube I have a link the comment section and video description. If you cant get it from amazon, trying finding it somewhere else by using the part number. If you need just the o-ring, its going to be to find the exact replacement for it, you will need to just replace the o-ring with universal o-ring kit and trying to find a size that fits. Hope that helps!
My mechanic changed this twice with a housing that is all aluminum made in Asia. It works for a month or so & then it leaks again, same spot as b4 with the original GM housing. I noticed the original one is made of plastic. I read that the aluminum one will last longer, so we went with it. My original GM plastic housing leaked & eventually cracked. I would think that if the part was defective it may happen once, but not twice. He charged me $310 for the work & it still leaks. Could it be leaking from another part near the housing & seem like it is leaking from the housing itself. Any suggestion?
Is your ratchet head one piece ??? I am in deep trouble. Couple of days ago, I installed this whole thermostat housing. Next day, I found, coolant was leaking. I did not know what to do. So I tightened the bolt so much that I broke one, half (the threaded piece) is still in there. I took it to a mechanic; he said, the unit was faulty. I got a new replacement unit. Now, I am trying to remove all the 6 bolts, 4 I am able to but 2 (one that broke) and one underneath (the one you are removing @10:07) I am not able to do. any suggestion ?? Thank you!!
@@OneTrickTech I torqued it too much. The threaded portion is still screwed inside but the bolt head came out and it is in my hand.........It is a serious issue. I need to see a mechanic. Thank you
You might still have a leak since you need the system to build pressure to have heat. Or you have a big air bubble, open the bleeder screw on the top left of the radiator (use a Philips head screwdriver). Rev the engine at 2000rpm for a few minutes until a bit of coolant comes out the bleeder. make sure to top of coolant ads you're doing that. Hope that helps!
Could anyone help me out.. the redundant outlet on the bottom with the metal retaining clip? mine is leaking... is there an o-ring inside? Reluctant to dissasemble without knowing prior as its a slow leak but would like to get it sorted, thanks
@Albert Crayton There is a shift cable below the thermostat housing. Make sure it's not damaged or the connector is unplugged. It's the only thing I could think of that you cause that kind of problem. Here's picture to help you out. www.cruzetalk.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/www.cruzetalk.com/attachments/shifter_cable_end_180-jpg.284190/
There is a O-ring at the end of the tube. It's hard to find the exact replacement for it. It leaked for me too so I just added a small amount of black gasket maker and let it dry so it wouldn't leak anymore. The O-ring is tucked in at the end of the tube, its hard to see it because it looks like its part of the tube. You can take it out with a pick, if you have a replacement for it. Hope that helps!
I did everything the same, but my fan is blowing more than usual. I think there is Air inside? So I opened the bleeder hole a bit so the air can come out. The Ac works fine again, but the heater is ok. The other day the ac or heater wasn't working. Any ideas?
Does the fan turn on high speed as soon as you start the car? If yes, that means you're probably missing coolant. 1.Make sure you top off the coolant then close the cap. 2. Rev the engine to about 2200 Rpm for a minute to force the coolant to move through the system. Open the bleeder until some coolant drips out then close it back. 3. Once you're temp gauge reaches operating temperature, check the coolant level again and top it off. 4. Once the coolant is topped off the the gauge is steady, turn on the heater and you should have heat. If you don't have heat, that means you have a coolant leak somewhere that's causing you to loose pressure. Even the smallest leak will cause you to have no heat. Make sure you connected all the hoses right and that you don't see any coolant dripping anywhere. The ac not working is unrelated I think. I think it needs information from the engine coolant temperature sensor but I'm not sure on the exact operation. Hope that helps! Let me know!
@@OneTrickTech No its still acting up. Ac blows warm and heater is not too hot but works. Fans still blowing more then usual. After turning off the car the fan is still spinning to cool the car down.
open the bleeder screw vent and revving the engine at 2.5k rpm for 2-3 minutes. top off the reservoir as you go always making sure its full. do this until the fan comes on and off on its own.
I honestly can’t understand for the life of my why the manufacture would put plastic parts that directly regulates the cooling of your engine! This problem with this car is so common and why is this not grounds for a nation wide recall on this vehicle? I own that same car and had mine replaced with an aftermarket aluminum Thermostat Housing. This can obviously withstand the heat cycles that your car will under go when you operate the vehicle. Get it together Chevy , shame on you for using cheap plastic parts and endangering the lives of consumers!
