I've changed the oil on my cars for more than 50 years. I taught my wife soon after we married, and she was religious about doing so on her own car which she herself maintained for over 15 years. She did the neatest, cleanest oil changes I'd ever seen -- never spilled a drop, and somehow, she never got dirty, either. Even better, this got her accustomed to looking around under the hood, and she wanted to know what the other parts were too. She immediately noticed anything amiss and was even able to fix some things herself, like a cracked hose causing a vacuum leak. I strongly encourage women to learn this type of job. A great confidence builder. My wife became much more informed about cars starting in this way.
Real world experience here.... my wife wanted to learn same. She did the oil change and everything seemed fine. Then we discovered the car was leaking oil at the drain plug. I checked it was tight and that wasn't the issue. I suspected something was amiss with the drain plug gasket. Took it to the dealership as it was winter and I don't do oil changes in the icy and wet driveway. They discovered the drain plug bolt was cross threaded. There's a certain amount of "normal experience" with tools, nuts and bolts that a person should have before they do their own oil change. We needed a new oil pan, which cost about 700 dollars with labour and taxes to replace. She has decided I should do the oil changes from here out.
This is why I do my own oil changes, even on new vehicles, because as he mentioned, jr techs (who are assigned oil changes) forgetting to put oil back in the car. Happens more than you know, I rather not pay someone to mess up my car.
This is why, when I have some work done on my car, I always ask for a sample of the old parts (eg. bring an old jar for brake fluid, transmission fluid, etc; or ask to see the old brake pads, etc). Figure it’s a good way to keep the shop honest! And yes, I agree about oil changes. Basic stuff like that, you do yourself!
FWIW, I've been using the same oil plug gasket for the last 70,000 miles. No leaks. If you cut off the top of a quart oil bottle or 2 liter soda bottle, it makes a nice funnel for adding in the new oil without spilling any. The idea of putting the oil filler cap on the hood latch is great, as is the advice of tightening things to spec (after a few oil changes, you'll not even need the torque wrench any more). Great video, Car Care Nut!
I do the same thing. Replaced the drain plug crush washer for the first time after about 15 years. Why? Just because I felt like it that day. Same one now for 8 years.
Great video, as always, by CCNut...but it needed a caution about brake fluid toxicity--it wrecks motor oil for recycling if it's mixed in to it, and it's death in the environment. Be sure to get that old brake fluid in a separate container and then take it to a recycler for proper processing, please!
Great info.I'm 54 years old done almost all my all changes my whole life and did'nt know the oil cap had gasket you could change. Never to old to learn
One thing that really sets him apart is the ability to get important information to us. Some car channels wander and talk about performance and such, but I just want my car to work right.
Congratulations on your award! You very much deserve it. I think you’re the best featured mechanic in you tube. The topics you discuss are always pertinent/important and you do it so thoroughly and clearly . I thank you for what do. You are a walking Toyota encyclopedia. Continued success to you and God bless. Romeo
@@nicholaspaul2458 Part of the problem is people complain if their oil is below the full line. I’ve always driven the car for at least half an hour and then waited 15 minutes to check the level. This gives a more accurate reading.
Yes, I siphoned over a pint out the last time a dealership did mine. Very were on vacation and didn't want to drive over 1,000 miles home with it overfilled.
I've changed a lot of oil on a lot of vehicles and farm equipment but I've always checked the oil level when cold because to to do so when the engine is fully warmed up means potentially a lot of oil hasn't yet drained into the crankcase! Hence, you tend to overfill when measuring dipstick oil level when hot, not the other way around. Oil expansion when hot compensates for this but even after waiting several minutes for warm oil to settle, I find it the level typically lower than a cold measurement. And if the amount of (cold) oil in the crankcase is to the manufacturer's specification, then why would it be considered overfilling once the engine fully warms up?? Now I notice you said nothing about warming up an engine before draining the oil. Maybe it's not necessary but, if nothing else, it does speed up the draining process. Also raising the front of the vehicle for ease of access can surely affect the draining of oil - sometimes it helps drain more thoroughly, sometimes though it prevents the last of the oil in the pan from draining at all.
AMD Thanks for making this one. Very good information as usual. Thanks for emphasizing that if the car has the black gasket, why it is important to change it. I will go ahead and buy the blue ones to have them at the ready JIC. I few years back I started to change my oil after one mechanic put too much oil in my vehicle. Then the kid wouldn't even own up to it. Anyway, like you say "Nobody will care for your car like you do"
The CCN is obviously a very skilled A+ Toyota mechanic. What I like even more about him is he explains things in a calm common sense way for DIYers. There is never a hint of him being condescending or showing an ego that a lot of mechanics with his skill level would have. He'll also be honest about repairs / maintenance on Toyotas of where you should draw the line as a DIYer of what you can do and when to leave a job up to the professionals. I have a tacoma, a Highlander and a Rav4, and have learned watching these videos how I can confidently do many maintenance tasks on these vehicles on my own.
Love your channel and have learned a lot. Looking forward to more diy instructions like this one Good tips today as I am new to the cartridge style filter. Like you closings as well!
Great video. I'm a 2017 Tacoma owner. Our warranty is about to expire this year. I'm going to start working on my truck now. You have great videos and you explain everything very well. Im a new subscriber, and I'm not a mechanic, not my thing but I am fascinated with how cars and trucks work and how to keep them going. Anyway, I just wanted to say thank you and God bless you and your family!
Do not forget to check for leaks and oil pressure after startup. It can happen to anyone, but especially if you're not experienced. Gaskets can be bad, faulty encased filters and improperly tightened oil plugs, etc. I did this work for 5.5 years and have seen it all, especially on used cars that others had touched before me.
Yes, it can happen to anyone. I know. I've been changing my own oil for 57 years. About two years ago I got distracted during an oil change. Because of that I ended up pouring three quarts of oil through the engine before realizing I forgot to put the drainplug in. Whoops! My wife said, "I'll bet you won't do that again." I told her she was wrong. It wasn't until after 55 years of not doing it that it finally happened. I told her the evidence shows that I'm more likely to do something like that as I get older. I don't think I should try making my own video unless someone else is running the camera. I can't multi-task like I once did. A man's got to know his limitations.
The reasons for leaks with cartridge filters are probably because of putting the o rings in the wrong spot. The Toyota filters have specific instructions as to where it goes and it important to pay attention to. Over tightening it will cause you issues like he said
I would recommend you include amazon affiliate link for the product you use or recommend that way is easier for us & you get few $. Also, I write down the time & milage on window as a reminder.
You can buy the oil change stickers on amazon for pretty cheap. What I did and I put sticker on the vanity mirror so the sun doesn't fade the information.
I had inquired about why Toyota uses a canister oil filter instead of a spin-on and I was informed that it's for environmental reasons. Less waste with the paper canister filter as opposed to the metal/paper spin-on filter. There are no filtration advantages.
Thanks for that reset the maintenance light info at the end!! I've been living in apartments since I got this Camry. they won't let you work on your car, in their parking lots. So, I came here to learn about the 💩 oil filter in this car, since I've never changed the oil in it myself. So, im going to find a public lot or dead end street, and start doing my own oil changes again. I'm also going back to the 3k mile changes ,that I've been doing myself, for 39 years. I used to straddle a shallow ditch in my yard, with my VW beetle, so i could lay in it and change my oil 😁 ; no ramps needed. 👍 There's always a way to get it done yourself. I use a shower curtain liner underneath the car, and it catches all drips. When you're done, wipe up the drips, and fold it up to use the next time. I've got to buy the ramps and a drain pan again, but it will save me money in the long run. I hate paying somebody else to do something i can do myself 🙃
I upgraded my oil filter canister on My 2021 4Runner. I used the metal one from Toyota for the 2GR and swapped out the middle stack inside to accommodate the taller one in the metal filter. Just so people know, the official toyota filter tool is $60 from the dealer, at least that’s what I paid. Worth every penny
On my Chevy 3.6 litre the oil level is the same hot or cold, the oil completely drains down on a cold engine which makes up for the difference in temperature.
I didn't know either until I was getting oil leaking no matter how tight I made the cap. The gasket was hard as a rock from old age and heat I guess. I just swapped out the whole cap since it wasn't much more than just changing out the gasket which is a pain to remove off the cap.
@@robertomulero514 Are you saying removing the o-ring on the oil filter cap assembly is a pain? You don't even need tools to remove the o-ring ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3R1KMN1ys3A.html except you do need a good oil filter cap wrench. I recommend the Motivx MX2320 unless you have the 1.8 liter engine which would take the Motivx MX2321.
It's not in the cap. The cartridge filter is in the cap but the o-ring goes on the threads... Those threads are located between the oil filter housing cap and the oil filter housing base (mounted to the engine block).
Excellent Video!! I still change my own oil and I'm pretty much following the schedule you've recommended. I enjoy the satisfaction of working on my own car. I do sorta believe if your jacking equipment and stands are a little sketchy and the time or effort it takes to properly dispose of the used oil and filter for the price its almost quicker and simpler to have Toyota or your trusted repair shop perform that maintenance especially with the hassle of properly disposing of the used oil.
Correct. Our first oil change at Toyota dealership where we purchased our Tacoma was overfilled by 30oz. Service manager found the new hire tech used all 7 quarts, over filling by 30oz. Good thing I checked when home and next morning after 12 mile drive from dealership to home. I did plenty of research on dealerships and what qualifications are required for position to change oil. They will hire you without any experience, they will provide on the job training. Your expensive vehicle will be maintained by a beginner tech most every time from what I have read online. I'm not comfortable knowing that. Just my personal experience with our dealership.
Disposal is free at local auto parts stores. I go every few years for that purpose. I NEVER trust any dealership to change my car's oil and filter and always do the job myself. If you want a very long, trouble-free service life from your car's engine, I'd strongly suggest that, if at all possible, you do the same. And check the underside of the filler cap. It should be relatively clean not encrusted with grime or sludge. If it is, there's a problem that should be addressed...oil changes too infrequent, bad filters, perhaps a defective PCV valve.
What hassle? I simply take mine to the tire dealer that also does oil changes. After spending $1075 on tires with them then they better take my old oil when I come in to get my tires rotated.
That would be nice to know if there was a trick to remove them. I had to break and chip out the filter housing on my tundra. They are always over tightened by everyone but the owner.
Folks, this is not a competition so see who spills less oil, just use a funnel. 🤣 You never cease to amaze me my friend. Love the videos, keep em coming, especially the stories series! We’ll all the series!
the toyota dealership recommended I use the BG engine performance restoration oil change kit, an additive that you run for 15 minutes with the old oil to ungunk the piston rings and then a conditioning additive for the new oil. Do you recommend this product? my 2014 tundra 5.7 has 174000 miles and still drives like brand new.
nope, they're just trying to sell you stuff. if you really want to do it, look online for how much the stuff is and how much they are charging you for it. i'm sure there's quite a mark up....
I have done so many oil changes on my Toyota especially now on my Tundra, and my only question is......... why the hell did Toyota go to an internal filter. That is the worst and messiest design I have every seen, lol
@@TheCarCareNut At first I thought this design was stupid but I have been doing LOTS of research on oil, filter media, bypass valves etc for months and am starting to think toyota may have done it to controll some filter variables. People like to use non OEM filters which have different pressures from OEM for the bypass valve(and obviously different filter media). I believe the bypass is built into the bottom of the threaded plastic piece on this style(correct me if I'm wrong). If it is then it would avoid problems caused from aftermarket filters. OEM filters are definitely the way to go at all times. Many people think a filter that is very fine that catches everything is better but dont realize that the filter media and bypass work together. Too fine of media means the oil will most likely bypass it (especially cold starts)assuming the bypass valve is decentand and actually works. Also finer media catches finer particles and plugs up faster. Many cheaper filters have major problems with bypass valves not functioning at all or barely. Same concept applies for furnace filter. Really fine filter catches pollen/allergens but plugs up and can cause excess pressure drop. Finer media usually means more media is needed(thicker filter/deeper pleats) to spead out the air over more area to reduce the pressure drop caused from fine filter. Basically the filter rack need to be designed for the application just like the oil filter needs to be designed for the application. Sorry for the rant. Love the channel. Keep up the good work!
@@austenbreitkreutz9858 Awesome research. I recently did an oil change on my sister's 2013 Subaru Impreza WRX and discovered that its oil filter has an abnormally high specified oil bypass pressure and aftermarket filters that don't have the correct setting for the bypass valve can cause big problems. I also found out that Subaru OEM filters are made by Fram and are poor quality so I used a Purolator Boss oil filter which did have the correct bypass valve pressure.
One advantage of the bare filter is that qualities of the filters (especially if you use aftermarket) can be readily assessed, just as shown in the video.
Good video,but you didn’t tell the folks to check that the oil filter and drain plug do not leak after start up ? It’s always a good idea to ensure that there are no leaks after an oil change !! Just my opinion !!
I am going for my 10K maintenance for my 2020 RAV4 Hybrid XLE. The dealer lists three types of oil and filter change. These first 2 are free - Conventional Oil & Filter Change, Synthetic Oil & Filter Change, and lastly - Synthetic Blend Oil & Filter Change ($54.99). Why the three types and which should I choose?
Just got a new 2022 Rav4 LE FWD and they recommend oil changes w/ 0w-16 full synthetic every 10,000 miles...? What's your opinion on this? I don't know that I trust going 10,000 miles between...I'm thinking 5,000 to be safe. What do you think? Thanks
definitely every 5k miles. if you drive 20k miles a year, doing it every 5k vs every 10k means two additional oil changes. even if you go to the dealer that's only an extra 75-100 dollars a year. oil is cheap, engines are not....
I have changed my own oil for the last 25 years straight, and before that whenever I could change it myself (when I had a place like a garage in a home where I could do it). The reason why I do that is because the last thing I want to do is have the oil changed like a "pro." Most new cars these days offer free oil changes for the first 2 years or so, but I personally would just pass on that. The fewer times a "pro" touches your car, the longer it will last. Even at dealers, they usually hire a bunch of high school kids for the oil change area.
On my 2nd gen Prius my favorite part is that I don't have to lift the car, filter and drain plug are easily accessible from the front I change my oil so much that I do a complete oil change in under 10 minutes 5~7 minutes actual work time the other 3 are cleaning and getting my tools from the very roomy trunk storage area
@13:20 Just sharing a ridiculous experience: I took my '18 I4 camry to a dealer who I found out filled it with 0w-20 even though the cap/sticker in the engine bay said 0w-16. I didn't realize until a week later, and they didn't ask me if 0w-20 was ok at the time. (I guess I also should have noticed on the invoice that they billed 0w-20 for some reason after the fact). The shocking part was when I came back to the dealer to request them to redo the oil change and use 0w-16, the diagnostic technician tried to brush it off saying they're close enough (which, I could understand their point of view, but this person had no sense of responsibility) ... quite comical and disappointing. The service manager was genuinely surprised and took care of me, though; I guess he didn't know that this was a change with the new generation I4 Camry's.
My opinion is additives are unnecessary. Especially with such a low mileage motor. Just keep doing regular oil changes with proper viscosity oil. I noticed a drop in fuel economy using 5w30 instead of 0w20. Even though I live in a hot environment I use the recommended lower viscosity oil.
Just a reminder that oil weight specs here in North America are strictly to satisfy CAFE and EPA regulations . For example my Tundra calls for 0w20 . I use 5w30 synthetic . I find the engine runs much quieter and the 30 weight offers better protection when I tow in the summer heat . Other areas of the world the same 3urfe engine calls for any oil weight from 5w20 all the way to 10w30 .
According to the lead engineer that designed the Nissan GTR engine, he does oil changes every 1000-2000 miles. Since then I’ve increased the frequency that I change oil in my vehicles. Oil is cheap, engines aren’t.
AMD this is a very beneficial series- I'm really looking forward to the coolant change video (I read the other comments :)) Question: Since the engine is cold when doing the oil change do you recommend just putting the capacity it says in the manual (ex/6.4qt for Sienna) and then warming up the car and then checking the dipstick? Also for regular maintenance should we check the dipstick before starting the engine or after having driven it for a while? Would appreciate your expertise. Thanks
Thank you for watching my videos! So on the capacity always put the capacity from the manual and for accurate reading fully warm up the engine, shut it off wait for a minute or two then check it
Hi! Most modern cars will warm up to good operating conditions within 5-10 minutes a good indication of operating temperature is the gauge being between hot and cold
MISTER CAR CARE NUT, you was speaking about lifting a car with big lift that costs $3000 or more, so now I'm really scared to Jack the car with Jack stands and get under the car, before i didn't scare to under the car, but now I'm scared, because I've got a friend who worked under the car and the car was dropped on him and he died, since at time I'm scared to get under the car to do some works, my transmission fluid is due to change I'm scared to get under the car to change the transmission fluid, one day i did put the car on the ramp and blocked the rear tires with woods and i shook the car, the car was very solid and I'm still scared to get under the car, my is going to let me use his big lift, so I'm going to use his big lift,
Hi! I’m sorry about your friend May he Rest In Peace. Car jack safety is very important and often missed. Using jack stands of good quality and double checking that the car is secure by rocking it a few times is important. Otherwise it should be ok.
AMD As always thank you for your videos. I have a 08 Camry 3.5L V6 with 127K miles which I have changed oil every 3000 miles using Pennzoil regular oil. Now that I’ve learned that Toyota oil are made by Mobil 1, I plan to use Mobil 1. But, I could not find regular oil 5W-30 by Mobil 1. Is it OK to use Synthetic Oil on my 2008 Camry?
I appreciate the fact that you said to use any oil you like. It drives me up the wall when people say only use OEM oil like there is something special about it.
Can i request my dealership to change my oil every 5000? I took my camry for the 5000 miles maintenance and they did some stuff but never changed my oil i'm concerned about that because i don't like that 10,000 miles oil change. Is there something i can do i still have the free maintenance waranty
I've got a 2010 Corolla with the 2ZR motor. I did the oil housing conversion from cartridge paper filter to the regular metal spin on filter with Toyota parts from a 2016 corolla. Would this give me better engine protection because of the anti-drain back valve that spin on filters have? Much more convenient when doing oil changes either way. Any reason why Toyota went back to spin on filters on the corolla in 2016? Thanks www.ptetra.com/blogs/blog/project-lexus-ct200h-spin-on-oil-filter-conversion
Wow that's dedication! From what I've heard (toyota dealer tech) on the 2016 corollas some have the spin-on and some have the cartridge because they were in the process of switching over from one design to the other and the factory didn't want to just throw away the remaining inventory for the old design.
Hey, good video. Though I would have put the o-ring on the oil filter canister _before_ pushing the filter into the canister. Be a little easier to get the o-ring on first, so that it would not be necessary to pass the o-ring around the filter, on its way down to the cannister. As far as using the oil filter cap as a reminder to add oil, by placing the cap someplace that will remind you that you need to add oil to the engine - good idea. But as to placing it on or near the hood latch, which is on a horizontal cross-member of the car's body - a few years ago when I left a cap atop the horizontal cross-member in front of the engine, near the hood latch (it was not on a Toyota and I don't remember which cap it was) I somehow managed to bump into the cap and cause it to fall down until it landed on the plastic shroud underneath the engine. I had to remove either the windshield washer bottle, or the engine coolant expansion bottle, I forget which, in order to reach my arm down to where I could grab the cap and retrieve it. I remember being relieved when I discovered that I did not have to remove any hoses from the bottle, that I was able to just move the bottle out of the way with the hoses still attached. But it still was an annoying, frustrating experience that I don't want to repeat.. I now make it a habit to remove any parts or fasteners that I have detached for the car, to a place outside the engine bay and to a place where they will be safe from being bumped - put the parts on a workbench or something - anywhere far away. from someplace where it might fall down and be hard to recover without going through mental and physical contortions -in jars, trays, muffin pans, tool boxes - not _on_ the car somewhere. Maybe _inside_ the passenger cabin but not _atop_ any part of the car. Gotta think of a good place.
My o ring snaps off the canister every single time and when I didn’t overtight it still broke off and the canister fell out I dont know what’s going on
Understanding that some oils have better cleaners in them etc... I decided to try Amsoil 100% synthetic 5w-30 on my mom's '07 Highlander Hybrid thinking it might help clean the seals better and stop the leak. It's been about a year, but taking measurements after it sits overnight, it's greatly improved. Toyota said it had rear main leak.
If I had to guess, it's to save time. If you open the fill cap and then drain everything, then everything should come out no matter which you do first. If you remove the oil filter housing first, then you can clean it, put on a new gasket, etc, while the oil is draining from the pan, so you're doing two things at once. Versus, if you do the oil pan first, then you drain the oil out of the pan and then wait 15 minutes and then put on a new plug and gasket. Now you move on to the oil filter and you unscrew up and clean out the housing, new gasket, etc which you could be doing while the pan is draining. Make sense?
I have a 21 land cruiser that I don’t drive often. I have about 5k miles on it in the 2 years I have had it. I change the oil every 6 months but it looks just like it did when I put it in. My LC stays in a climate control garage, I’m thinking once a year will be ok in my situation, can you let me know your thoughts.
I'm have a similar issue but still dump oil at 6 months but skip the filter for 12 months. I save the old oil for flushing my buddy's diesel. The oil it just too clean to waste.
Buy the weight listed in the owner's manual, but buy the new version of Mobil 1 API rated SP with the Gf-6A specification. It is not wise to pay extra for Mobil 1 just because they added the Toyota name to the bottle, unless you wish to help to make Toyota rich.
i use a torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to spec. this prevents over and under tightening. under tighten and the bolt could come loose. over and could strip the oil plug threads. Torque wrenches are so inexpensive these day it make no sense not to have one when working on a car, especially for tightening lug nuts
Yes, that is so true. I am wondering how we managed to do that all these years without one 😆 I can do well without this toy, it is the „pro” mechanics, with their power demolition tools that I worry about.
I’ve been a detailer for one of my local Toyota dealerships. My mom recently got a used 17 Corolla from said dealership. I’ve changed oil hundreds of times it feels like but I love this vid! Thanks man god bless
My LS460 has the canister drain valve in it, and I use a brass tool to drain the housing before removal because it makes a lot less mess when removing the housing. I also pour about 1/4 quart of 0W-20 into the fill port while the drain plug is out to rinse out a little bit more of the old oil before installing the plug and filter. Thank you for the very informative, useful, and cost-saving video for DIY-ers.
@@TheCarCareNut What is the Crankcase capacity of the 4 L? i see some writings saying 6.5 qts some 5.8qts. I guess i could actually read the Owners manual, lol! Thanks for providing great info for us Nut.
I have two questions regarding doing the Oil Change on the 2021 Toyota Camry Hybrid with the 2.5L engine: 1) Is the torque for the Spin-on Oil Filter also 18 foot pounds? 2) Since this is a Hybrid, after I change the oil, when I push the start button the engine doesn't start. The electrical system just comes on. So when I want to check for leaks with the car still up on my ramps, how can I force the gas engine to start? FYI, I always check for leaks before I put the cover back on the bottom of a motor. Thanks!
My car requires 0W-20 I was looking for mobil 1 brand and they have it in performance mode and fuel efficient mode and so many versions. How do I know which version to get?
I love your videos you are very easy to listen to understand. Thank you for your videos and time. I have a question 2001 camry oil and filter. And thank you
