Great video. Tip I learned is to keep old brake pads in and apply brake pressure to clean the pistons. Then you can compress pistons (after cleaner) with old pads and then remove them. Insert new pads and you’re all set.
Never tighten the calipers without pumping pistons out first and while holding the lever tighten the caliper bolts. Needs to be done this way to ensure calipers are lined up properly with the disc
Awesome how-to vid, made by someone who knows what he's talking about.. I've got new sets of break pads for the M50 calipers of my ST 765 RS and your video has got that kind of details I was looking for. Thank you so much.
Excellent video, thank you! On my old I used those same CL pads and they were phenomenal! My new bike (2018 Street Triple R) has Brembo M4.32 calipers which are monoblocks so I was just checking out the differences in pad changes and maintaining these expensive calipers.
Very informative, I have some new pads to put in my Tuono, gone with EBC FA244, As recommended by AP Workshop. After watching this I now feel confident and know what tool and products to have lined up by bike, instead of the kitchen sink or going backwards and forwards getting another part. 👍👏
Very impressive how to, so detailled. I intend to move to Brembo (M4 or GP4-RX, don't know yet which), so I'll have to stop being lazy when changing the pads.
Thank you! I say if you right more street, then the M4 it plenty overkill, you definitely don't need more. If you ride a majority on the track, then the GP4 would be worth considering. Definitely don't underestimate the M4 on the track though.
Awesome awesome video. Thanks for the help I’ve been having uneven pad wear on my 14 Daytona 675R (same calipers as yours, M4) and will be looking to clean up and maybe rebuild the calipers. This is just what I needed to get started. Nice and clean so my intractable OCD has been satisfied 😁
Simply Superb.... I've been searching for a tutorial of Brembo front pad change for several weeks . Until this appeared......😁"THANK YOU"!!! 😁 I have a 2020 Hayabusa with ABS. I couldn't find anything closely similar to my set up🤣🤣😂😂
Awesome video! This video has made me confident enough to do the brake/caliper work myself. Thank You!! I noticed you included brake fluid in the beginning as one of the "tools you'll need", but I didn't see you use it for anything. Brake fluid is only used when the pistons are completely removed from the caliper correct?
Hi, awesome vid. Used it to change my pads on my Street triple. 1 question though, is it okay not to put grease at the back of the pads where the piston make contact? When i removed mine there is like a coat of hardened grease at the back of the pads. Just some thing i notice.
6 месяцев назад
Triumph manual says put copper grease only on the first 4 threads of the caliper bolt. I guess that is enough grease to work its way up to where needed.
I am confused. Do you have only 1 caliper? You cleaned a caliper then squeezed the brake lever to expand the pistons on the caliper you were working on. What about the piston on the other side? Did they not expand too??
Great video. Bow often do you suggest to rwmove claipers and clean then out? Once a year? Every so many miles?? And why not use brake cleaner from the beginning to clean the caliper verse soapy water?
Thanks for the amazing video. Question for you: What do you do if one of the pistons pops out as you are pumping the brakes without the pads in there? Simply pop it in and bleed the brakes? Thanks!
You would just clean it with some brake cleaner to make sure there will be no dirt behind the piston when you put it back. Once it's clean, lube it up with some fresh brake fluid, and make sure the o-ring seal is seated correctly when you push it back in, that 0-ring seal is the most important part. And then yes, bleed the brakes!
@@howtomoto Hi! thanks for the vid. I unfortunately had a piston pop out on me and I put it back and bled the shit out of the brakes, but still feel spongey. Do you think that means I haven't bled them enough or that I might have put the piston back in incorrectly?
Hey man love the vid but I think you forgot to mention the brake fluid reservoir overflow with the pushing of the pistons.. sorry if I missed it but any how very good video on cleaning brake calipers my friend 👍 BUT , if you you failed to mention that then shame on you 😒 very important lol
Great video thank you. I do have one question, when putting the brake block back on the mounting with the new pads in, you pressed the brake lever, won’t the brakes be rubbing against the disc all the time? I had new discs and pads replaced under warranty on Tuesday by the supplying dealer and on Thursday have just had new tyres put on by a local garage, the front brakes are now grinding/rubbing when I turn the front wheel manually, is this right, surely they shouldn’t be! Regards. Paul.
After changing my brake pads i hear a clicking noise when braking when i go backwards. The brakepads are moving a little bit when changing direction. How can i fix this?
Only one question here. How do make sure that the pads are in the centre of the caliper? i.e. not to one side causing the caliper to rub the dics? Because the disc to caliper clearance is very tight on these brakes therefore the gap between the pads must be correct.
The very first thing I would check is whether any of the pistons are sticking. The way the caliper is bolted to the mount in combination with the floating tolerance of the disc, you would have severely worn out disc buttons if the two made contact. I've never had a huge issue as after I change the pads, I depress the brake lever and it centres the pads onto the disc.
@@howtomoto my original discs on my 1198 were knackered after 15k miles they were very loose on the bobins and because they are semi floating not fully floating I binned them and fitted new seris oro discs. But it doesn't always happen the the pistons come out equally both sides of the caliper and the mounting bolts have side to side clearance between them and the caliper holes, therefore it "maybe" possible for the pads to not be central to the disc rotor. I walays check caliper to disc clearance by inserting a feeler guage between the caliper and disc making sure they are the same both sides of the disc. Thanks for your reply :-)
@@ivoruren3086 I'd honestly never considered this, I'll have a look next time I'm playing around but my caliper bolts and disc bolts don't seem to have any play in them at all.
What you do to centre the pads is do the caliper bolts up finger tight. Spin the wheel and squeeze the brake lever. Do this a couple of times then spin, squeeze and hold the lever on tight to hold the pads in position. Then reach round and torque the caliper bolts while holding the lever. This will ensure the pads are central. When you spin the wheel afterwards you should hear a consistent sound from the disc as the pads slightly rub it. If the rubbing comes and goes then either it’s not central or you have a sticky piston or warped disc.
Should have shown the left hand side one...... I found it much harder to get off with 2 brake lines going to it. I have multistrada and had to wrap a tshirt around caliper as I twisted it to remove it as it hit the wheel before the pads were clear of the disk. Other than that well done, great video.
Michael Mcguire : I’ve been putting a few layers of wide electrical tape onto the rim, to try and stop the knock of callipers against rims. Seems to work well, 👍
Honestly... I didn't find it necessary. The only thing contacting the back of the pads were the caliper pistons. As you can see I did apply it to the anti-squeal plate/spring to make that easier to clean. I just didn't see how it would help the pads as I usually throw those away when I service the brakes. The minor down side may be a bit more brake noise, but that doesn't bother me, I hope this helps :)
Rene, copper grease is not necessary on high quality modern brake calipers. Just give dirt something to stick to. You would have used copper grease on old cars to stop brake squeal. Good vid HTM
It means that the pistons aren't being pushed out evenly. For very small differences it's fine but when the difference is large, either the pistons need a very good clean or need to be replaced. (if there are only pistons on one side of the caliper, then it's normal)
If one is a significantly warmer than the other it could mean a caliper piston is stuck on one side, and hence not actually braking with full force and generating as much heat. It's hard to tell without seeing it for myself, but I'd say start by giving your brakes a solid clean and inspect the pistons and pads.
Just did my brakes on the 2013 rsv4 factory, is it normal for it to be slightly harder to push around? Also even after bleeding the brake levers feel a bit spongy, any tips?
Make sure your calipres are centred by loosening the axle nuts, pushing down on the suspension a few times and then tightening the axle nuts again. (I'm referring to the 2 bolts that clamp the axle, not the main axle itself). If it's spongy, it means there is still air in the system somewhere. Try googling how to bleed brakes with ABS systems.
@@howtomoto mechanic did the bleeding, now i did it myself with a friend after the first bleed(left caliper), it's fixed. Did some flushing since there's been solidified bits of brake fluid already.
I personally have never used Brembo Pads, but depending on which compound you pick (SA, SC, RC etc.) the price will vary. Overall, they're quite expensive. I love the feel of the Carbone Lorraine brand.
@@howtomoto As I've understood it, the reason for greasing the back is to eliminate brake squeek caused by vibrations between pads and pistons. I've never done any brake maintenance, so I'm in the process of educating myself on the topic 😊
I saw lots of movement on your disc. It looks as if its damaged. Looks dangerous. Speaking from experience, the same thing happened but I disregarded, on my ninja650 2019 The disc cracked and damaged my front suspensions. (FYI only the right side of the disc broke and damaged the right side of the suspensions, it took a chunk out.) But if that is the way it, then so be it. Take care.
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