New version is much better: here is link • Blue Stuff/Oyumaru - ... Můj web: www.plasticmodels.eu/ Článek na webu www.plasticmodels.eu/tipyatrik... David Damek Hudba: Luz on the line CC Attribution 3.0.
If you mixed some corn starch and acrylic paint with the silicone, you can make what's called Oogoo, which would be easier to handle. You can also replace the acrylic paint with food coloring and create Proto-Putty, which is said to be more durable. I recommend checking tutorials for both and experimenting with which may be the better for your projects. :)
It's just you.....Just sounds like someone with some basic guitar skills playing with a loop pedal....I've made plenty of crap like this that I've deleted lol
This tutorial is great, tried it myself and was wowed. There is one thing that though me for a six was that fact you use hypodermic needles to mix your resin?
You might get better results by hot gluing your masters to a flat piece of glass, acrylic, or what have you. Then add your mold-making material (which can also be regular air-drying rubber such as is used for model railroad rock molds). You might want to build a little stick "dam" around your dried mold(s) and pour a back-up of plaster into it. When hard, lift off the plaster, and peel off the rubber. This way, you create a support for the mold cavities so that they remain undistorted and the openings remain level. Then, when you pour your casting material (Hydrocal is a good choice), you overfill the cavities, then place a piece of glass or Plexiglas over the mold, giving your parts a completely flat back when dry.
you can also whip up a bowl of water and glycerin or dish soap is what I use and pump the silicone into it. the glycerine acts as a catalyst. You knead it for a bit in the solution until it gets thick. take it out and press your positive in and wait like 30 mind, maybe more to be safe. demold and you're done
You MAY want to clear coat your pieces first. If you have a mat finish, or rough peg marks, the silicone could bond , causing demolding issues... This is as someone who uses silocone caulking both for molds and for professional work. XP
Thanks I have never done plastic molds or plaster. I have made a mold once when we were making bronze casting years ago. I do want to try and make a plastic mold once. Just to learn the procces.
I noticed you never made those panels with skulls ( like a weird church lol ).I wondered where the original panels where from cos they looked good cast in gypsum plaster
Nice tutorial, but you don't have to wait a week for it to cure. This is acetoxy silicone which cures by absorbing air moisture and releasing acetic acid. You can put it in a plastic bag with a small cup of water and sealing it (and heating the air inside). In theory this can cut the curing time to 1/5 or 1/10 of the time.
Chris Hansen - Silicone, you mean. And yes. It causes the silicone to become thicker and opaque white. It also stretches less, becoming easy to tear over a few months. That said, it's perfect for popping out pieces quick as it becomes stiff in 45 minutes and can demold in 2 hours, depending on how thick you mix it. Dumping the silicone into a bowl of water with dish soap in it before applying it for the mold can also reduce curing time, but won't reduce clarity or integrity of the mold, though that's only important if you're doing a two-part mold. In this case, it should be fully cured in 24 hours.
I always assumed there was some catch to that silicone being so much cheaper than the art kind. Is it more toxic? Longer drying time? Less durable? Too hard?
Very good! -but wgere can I get this powder that you show here?? Is there any site from where I could order this product or similar?? Do you know? I live in Europe, and a U.E. company to order this from, would be great!! 1000 Thanks!!
Thank for sharing . I got a few question about this . Will any silicon will work . Is that gypsum something like plaster. I do have a few rare kits i want to recast some parts from. This look more suitable for bigger casting.
I also tried to use other types of sillicone, but they were too sticky with the plastic parts. For me is the best choice transparent universal sillicone. Sillicone is very resilient, so you can fill it with any substance, even molted metal, for example tin metal.
I tried this with silicone (tube) I found here in the USA. I waited 2 wks to try to remove original pieces and it did not work. Silicone stuck to pieces. I don't know if it's different silicone in EU compared to USA. Tried again and coated pieces and still didn't work.
I tried again with different pieces coating pieces with Vaseline (thin coating) and another pieces with hairspray. waited 3 days to remove parts still didn't work. Silicone tubes here from Wal-mart $2.99 and buying silicone mix for making molds is about $20.00. I think silicone tube in EU is different than silicon here in USA. Tried to find same silicon used in vid but can't find it.
what product is this called "Bílá" you used with a brush on the mold??? I don't understand the language in the package is this have a common name to find it in my country? thanks
I finally tried the technique but couldn't make it work, the silicone attached to the original piece and I couldn't take it out without breaking the mold (I couldn't even unglue it completely). I thought this might happenned so I covered the original with some industrial oil, coudl that be the SAME reason why this happenned? I also didn't let it dry for a week, just 2 days... any ideas?
I put my figure piece without oils or anything. Let it dry for a week and the same thing happened like yours. The piece was stuck to the silicone. There has to be a way! Also, I'm working with super small pieces, so they must be all the way inside the silicone.
@@phoenixrodarte3121 I finally tried by mixing it with corn Scorch (can't remember the actual term) bit that worked like a charm, Made a few molds and currently using them with the París thing....
@@phoenixrodarte3121 I mixed the silicone with the starch corn and you have around 10 minutes to make the mold, I only left it 24 hs and it was ready to remove the original. The mold is flexible so you can still cut it with a knife. :) I duplicated some barrels and chests
Do you think I could use this process to make a copy of a car shell but have it made out of something highly flammable so that I can use it as a mold for an aluminum copy?
Just use plaster of Paris cheap and for a one off an easy way to go. Make a wax casting from the mold the create a sand cast from the wax and use burn out method
I don't get why you only had 1 glove when you ended up touching the silicone anyway. I mean that's _exactly_ like something I would do but I'd be calling myself an idiot while I'm picking silicone out of my fingernails.
So do people think this is actually worth trying, or should I just pay the money for proper moulding solution? I'm tempted by the cheap option with plaster! Dave
